Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
#983
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I replaced the speed sensor. The tachometer is still pretty inaccurate at lower RPMS but the speedo seems about right now.
Here's some awesome pics of the awesome job.
The speed sensor. The 6speed is not supposed to leak when you pull out the sensor but guess what. Mine did. The sensor is at the rear of the transmission, on the passenger's side.
Here's the old 3.9 sensor and ye olde transmission fluid puddle.
Here's some awesome pics of the awesome job.
The speed sensor. The 6speed is not supposed to leak when you pull out the sensor but guess what. Mine did. The sensor is at the rear of the transmission, on the passenger's side.
Here's the old 3.9 sensor and ye olde transmission fluid puddle.
#984
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Have you not learned anything with the time you have spent here? Post up pictures.
Your 3.6 speed sensor was not in the car?? Attention to details, it's one of the things I have always busted your ***** on. Post up some new video of you and the "big speed run" without video it didn't happen!
Your 3.6 speed sensor was not in the car?? Attention to details, it's one of the things I have always busted your ***** on. Post up some new video of you and the "big speed run" without video it didn't happen!
Yeah when I was nat. aspirated, fairly regularly, I took the ten minutes to peg the tachometer in 6th and it actually felt pretty stable and solid. Back then though, I still had the undertray. Ignorantly, when I installed my turbo kit four years ago, I ripped out all the factory undertray stuff in the name of FTL weight savings. Since then, high speed has kind of sucked. I would like to seal off the bottom again.
#986
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easy and cheap to do the ducting.( less than 150 if you do it yourself with a good metal supply shop)
Just take your time with a few cereal boxes and a sheet of 3mil 6061 aluminum with some standard hardware store bolts and a set of wide tinbanger pliers for mounting tabs.
Just take your time with a few cereal boxes and a sheet of 3mil 6061 aluminum with some standard hardware store bolts and a set of wide tinbanger pliers for mounting tabs.
#990
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I too am thinking about doing aluminum as far back as possible.
Would aluminum foil work? The heavy duty thanksgiving type? Curly I assume you mean I should tape the cereal box to the foil for extra stiffness?
#991
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You need the christmas style tape.... the ones that come in 3" lengths otherwise this will all go to ****.
idk where you can get that outside of christmas time, so add this to 2012 to-do list.
idk where you can get that outside of christmas time, so add this to 2012 to-do list.
#995
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I ordered 4x 15x9 black 6ULs today. Going to put RS3s on em and start putting down the miles on my "home course". My interest in lateral Gs has been renewed since watching Initial D on Netflix.
I am continuing my quest for spoolage. When I added a whopping 1-2* of timing to my 1-12psi 3000-4000rpm or whatever timing rows, I should have actually altered the 2500-6000rpm 1-12psi rows. Real world, when WOTing on the street, I see 20psi between 3700 and 6000RPM depending on gear and weather. I am going to adjust my map to something like the shaded cells in the tables below and log the **** out of it in 1st through 6th while watching my knock readout and knocklite. The goal is to have a street tested det-free map for those crucial rows where boost is building. Comparing this map to other miata timing maps, it looks pretty damn aggressive, but if it doesn't knock, it doesn't knock.
BTW yes I know the map isn't quite smooth but you should get the general idea. The cells I am talking about are the shaded cells.
Imperial:
Metric:
I am continuing my quest for spoolage. When I added a whopping 1-2* of timing to my 1-12psi 3000-4000rpm or whatever timing rows, I should have actually altered the 2500-6000rpm 1-12psi rows. Real world, when WOTing on the street, I see 20psi between 3700 and 6000RPM depending on gear and weather. I am going to adjust my map to something like the shaded cells in the tables below and log the **** out of it in 1st through 6th while watching my knock readout and knocklite. The goal is to have a street tested det-free map for those crucial rows where boost is building. Comparing this map to other miata timing maps, it looks pretty damn aggressive, but if it doesn't knock, it doesn't knock.
BTW yes I know the map isn't quite smooth but you should get the general idea. The cells I am talking about are the shaded cells.
Imperial:
Metric:
Last edited by Faeflora; 05-20-2011 at 10:20 AM.
#1000
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To look at this, use the excel filters. Yes, there is a big knock at the end of one of the pulls. I think it is from throttle lift right before I hit the limiter.
There is some little AFR lean spikes from dwell misfires. Yes, my fuel map is smooth. The Hydra really needs a dwell air temperature trim table.
When I work on my car at my GF's dad's place, at his recommendation, I dump my old oils/coolant in his backyard grass clippings pile. He says "it will soak it up". The compost pile is adjacent to a stream.
I thought loved hot tranny tunnels? I would like to do some more research before committing to this- to see what the track fellas are doing and if it is that valuable.