fail baboon goin for redemption in '012 - will just end up failing again
 

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244


after 4 1/2 years of fail, fail baboon is looking for redemption in '012.


a brief history of fail

in a move to assure baking in as much fail as possible, car was an abandoned project which was then acquired through a lien sale. naturally we (codriver=papasmurf on ncr) missed the 7 day grace period with dmv to sort the paperwork and had to pay back fees to be able to register it. that 3 units of fail and the car isnt even home yet.

car is rough but it does run sort of. little bit rusty, little bit crashed 92 with a s13 sr20det. motor itself seems solid but the wiring is sketchy and it runs super lean even though all the hardware is stock. an old piggy fuel computer was offered up as a solution and we were able to finally drive it.

in quick succession, a fatcat suspension, 1.8 brakes, a tc design spec miata cage, nice seats (spg xl recaros)/harnesses were all added. after some deliberation a AIM mxl strada dash was ordered. first 6 mo of ownership were good. -1 unit of fail.

it turns out a working gas gauge can be a handy thing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244

so after some reading, it turns out the fuel level sender in the miata is a pot which gives 5ohms on a full tank and 114ohms on an empty. fine, except that the AIM wants voltages. ok, i get it, that means a pullup resistor. so I read some more and there are freaks out there with like 100ohm pullup resistors. i guess they never ran the numbers to see what kind of current they are pulling through their gas tank.

I opt for a 12k resistor.

so now i have to figure out what voltages to feed the AIM setup software.

after some ass scratching and poo flinging i come up with these (in millivolt):

(12/(12000+114)*114)*1000 = 112.92

(12/(12000+114)*5)*1000 = 4.95

ok, seems to work. jumps around like crazy, but it works.


a 3.9 torsen is acquired but then progress grinds to a halt for basically the entire rest of the year.

another 6 months go by and diff got installed and and also managed to get the speedo to work, for no apparent reason than because we can. we had asked for abs axles when purchasing the diff and were able to put those to use with a hall effect sensor to feed the AIM

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244

Sometime in '010 I managed to do a 3-2 misshift on the front straight at laguna. I've never misshifted before so I sat down and did some figgering. I guessed that the shifter placement was causing my arm to hit the seat and that was the reason I found 2nd when i was going for 4th

The trouble with the sr shifter is that it has a rubber bushing between the outer shell and the shaft. This means that if you heat up the thing to bend it the way you want you destroy the bushing. It had to be bent so i scraped out what was left of the rubber and poured a urethane bushing in its place. its a shore a 75 hardness and seems to be just about right. shifter position is perfect now, i was even able to shorten up the throw a little bit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330330244

in for sick nasty bro ownage

ima have the reacharound wonder twins coming online here in a bit. i see a line forming at the rear.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330362572


one more item of fail: a sharp eye will notice the turbo to ic piping is missing. car would run but cut out when the turbo spooled. pulled off track and discovered the BOV had blown off the pipe. the weld between pipe and flange failed. this ended my 1st day of the weekend. loaded up and hightailed it back to bay area and got to the shop at 5:55 (close at 6pm) and got it welded back up. .5 fail

I like this thread already...

ms3 + ms3x groks sr20det CAS as of feb 18. woohoo. ms3 isn't completely hooked up yet (its piggy on the stock ecu) but the big deal was CAS support, and thats working.

james murray for president

still todo on the fail list. i'm still working on design, but it will be a beefier version of hingstonwm's.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330388553


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330388553

I like this thread. 1) it's cool 2) glad to see that someone else keeps a personal fail counter, too.

Great stuff,

Need a plate welded to the subframe to increase the loaded surface area.

Really impressed with the swap though. Looks fairly well thought out.

Perhaps I'm blind, but I'm not seeing the fail in this thread:D
Looks like WIN to me

i'm still looking for ways to spread the load out. the front of the diff wants to tilte down so first thing i was going to try is weld a section of U stock traverse along the subframe. then take the stub the diff is mounted to and stick it inside the U and do a butt weld to keep it in place. hoping the downward force of the diff will spread out and to the subframe mounts on either side.

i'll mock up something and post a pic as soon as i get some wires back in the car lol.


18psi, ok i see i haz to convince u i haz lots of fail lol.

I bought the megasquirt the end of november '010. Just this month got it built. fail.

I received this nice box of goodies just about a year ago iirc. win. its still in the box. fail. so sad. my company moved to san diego just about this time last year and so I ended up spending 50% time down there. combine that with a few household disasters and that was it. I didn't touch the car in '011 at all.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330407006

So here's to redemption in 012. The plan is to wire in the megasquirt with the minimal amount of body wiring to run the hazards, brakes, turns, brake master idiot, etc. ordered a fz-1 (fuzeblocks.com) today. its for bikes, but i think can fit everything on it except for the main fan.

tomorrow i'm on the hunt for source for raychem 55 wire and shielding, adhesive heat shrink and deutsch AS connectors (http://www.deutsch.net/deutsch-produ...&s=1&market=10). ok i know, i'm smoking crack on the deutsch connectors, but damn.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330408020


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330408020

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330408020

Well isn't that just the cutest thing you ever saw?


What will your circuits be? ECU power, blinker relay, high beams, low beams, brake light, interior lights? With fans on a separate fuse?

first cut on the circuits. i'm sure i'm forgetting something....

i'm thinking 1 fuel pump ok. 2 may need to be a relay with a fuse. suck.


6 terminals of always on (30A total):
brake lights
turn lights and the blinker box
hazards and its blinker box
brake master idiot light
video camera


6 terminals of switched 12v (30A total)
main fan relay
aim dash
ecu/cops 12v/cas 12v
igniter 12v
fuel pumps
o2 sensor

ftfy.

op...you're the man. #truestory.

Got your wiring diagram drawn yet? That will save you a bunch of time in the long run.

SPEC 55 is just a variation on milspec Tefzel wire. Aircraft Spruce is a great place to go for that. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html

If you could post your wiring diagram when you draw one that would be awesome. I want to go the same route with my wiring, the less the better.

hornet thank u sir. aircraftspruce kicks ass. everything is by the foot and they have the shielded wire i was looking for for the crank and cam signals.

I will certainly document the wiring scheme i end up with but i'm not sure how useful it will be. since mine is a motor swap i'm getting rid of the engine harness and supporting wiring. the under-car harness (battery to alternator) is still in the car, but i may end up pruning that too. this is probably a lot more scorched earth than most folks would want.

Ryan, maybe check tsb'ers wiring thread, he did a nice job: https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ht=tuck&page=3

bought some metal to reinforce subframe. it weighs 16lbs. little bit buyers remorse since i just spent a couple days removing weight.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330581725

I must have misunderstood the circuit diagram. I thought you had 6 total circuits, with a choice of switched or constant.

You are totally correct sir.


2nd cut:


6 terminals total

always on (30A total):
1 brake lights/turn lights and blinker box/hazards and its blinker box/brake master idiot light/video camera
2 main fan

switched 12v (30A total)
3 fuel pump
4 aim dash/ecu/cops 12v/cas 12v
5 igniter 12v/o2 sensor/main fan relay
6 switched 2nd fuel pump (if its small) or convert to always on if there is more current available there

i'm going to need some fancy connectors to deal with all the 1:n connections.

fuzeblock came today. it is tiny. seems to weigh same as the horn (fz-1= .27lb horn=.38lb)

strategized with a friend today on the rear subframe. ended up punting on the idea of modifying subframe in favor of making the ppf work.

i would like to take an informal survey. would anybody be interested in purchasing a kit to adapt a sr20 to miata? kit would consist of tranny <-> ppf adapter, motor mounts and oil pan. for sake of argument lets assume cost is < $1000.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330817078

there was a kit available at some time before, cost was over 3k. I think there would be some interest in a kit. I know you will get "interest" at CR, but who will actually really pay? not sure.

Sure I'll do it. But I want KA!

woot woot first sale. actually i think ka is ok for 2 out of 3 parts. i'll take a look to make sure the tranny mounts are same (worst case you can swap bellhousings). motor mounts are same. oil pan hmm...

i dunno if the ka can handle all yer boosts. iirc the block cracks @ 425lb/ft at lowish rpms (< 4k).

Takin' some fail out this weekend boy howdy.

ima put this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331356531

and crawl under the car and tack weld the fitment fixture in the right orientation. From this the final part can be produced.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331356531

ima be a happy puppy

rain gives me the lazies but have small update

got the busted one out
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332736491

new one washed and ready to go in
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332736491

picked this up today to build my laguna seca exhaust. whatcha all think?

I gotta say, if stock bike take-offs are 10 times better than you can buy for a car, your doing it wrong.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332997834


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332997834

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1332997834

that new exhaust looks fancy. :drool:

This pic would be be so much more fail-redeeming if it were on a triple-beam.



Loving the thread so far, looking froward to seeing the progress. I get a lot of ideas watching a lot of you guys work. :party:

I'm digging this! Too bad it isn't ready for MRLS this weekend...

...or is it?!












Related: Sell me your old SR20 turbo :)

Lets go get our engines.

no i didn't make it out. too bad, there aren't many chances to see everybody in one glorious weekend.

sure you can have the old turbo. it seems to be in fine condition.

I have a question for yous alls. I have stupid car completely disassembled and i'm looking at '95 rear subframe, 3.9 torsen, 99 axles, 1.6liter rear hubs and uprights. it looks like everything is ok for 350wheel but if i'm going to change anything, now is the time. I saw sav post that he is using a rx7 diff carrier. will the standard 99+ housing be ok for me?

ps: i don't know if i'll be 350 or not. planning on assembling then tuning at 14psi and see what i get.

If you abuse it, none of that stuff will last long at 350whp. If you can keep from doing many clutch kick drift initiations you should be good with any 1.8L rear end and axles. I don't think any of them are significantly stronger or weaker than any others.

i plan on being smooth, but it looks like you takes your chances at the end of the day. i guess if it starts getting expensive i'll back off on the power.

picked up these today, now i just need a head to put them into: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334732534

What cams are those?

When I saw the thread title I thought I was in the politics section and it was an obummer re-election thread.

Glad to see I was wrong.

1,2,3...,1,2,3... Wait a minute...

oooooooh thats harsh. nicely done :bowrofl:



cams are 20v's from front drive nissan (primera iirc) which has a cut-n-paste of honda vtec. what kind of sick joke is it that the front drive commuters have all the best s h i t

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334816665

Why bother?

A stock sr20det head flows 188.3 @ .300 lift. A stock VE head flows 329 @ .300. I'm hoping to get my hands on a newer version of the head (20v) which flows a little bit better than the 329 i think.

still dinking with the ppf stuff. got a design for the mount but i'm having trouble figuring out where the front end of the ppf should be. at the current position the ppf is hitting the gas tank. can yous help a brother out and measure your gas tank <-> ppf gap?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339957715

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339957715

Now this looks like fun. Sub'ing for track vids when finished. :D

i have a growing pile of prototypes trying to make a ppf to tranny mount.

for all yous who have been waiting for opp to point and laugh... your day has come

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340435413

with some luck, this is mount N-1. couple of small changes and should be good to go for track season this year. I still have the transmission tunnel brace but I may get rid of that all together if the tranny <-> ppf adapter proves strong enough.

This means the swap would just consist of driveshaft, ppf adapter, motor mounts, and oil pan (turbo plumbing and exhaust notwithstanding)

I still need a measurement of ppf <-> gas tank gap from a stock NA. please somebody help me out.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340949023

a few in-progress pics


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340950138

http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...622_091632.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340950138

and a vvl head i picked up

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340950138

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1340950138

Let's hear more about this NA dyno chart :)

:bowrofl: Oh ----. I thought the same thing. That ---- is funny!

why is it that that the front drive guys get good parts cheap? its not fair.

the head pictured above is from a fwd sr20ve motor which nissan used starting in the late 90's ('97 iirc) to be competitive to honda b series. both companies produced a crapload of civics/sentras/etc so if you can pull parts from these, you are in a good place. going rate for imported sr20ve motors minus gearbox seems to be in the $700-800 range. i picked up just the head for $400.

nissan did introduce one evolution (p12 head) with thinner valve stems etc to try to keep up, but then honda ran away again with the k series.

if you look on the right side of the head, you will notice 2 selenoids. one actuates intake cam, the other exhaust. with some mods (oil supply) fwd head fits on a rwd sr20 block - and with some luck will become next years motor.

with stock cams i see a dyno for 183whp: The Most Powerful Engines Thread. (Dyno Thread for Powerful Cars and Tuners) - Page 4 - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash

the "N1" is the hot cam for NA applications and gives the dyno i posted in the engine swap thread: The Most Powerful Engines Thread. (Dyno Thread for Powerful Cars and Tuners) - Page 3 - SR20 Community Forum - The Dash

i am quite interested in what this 212whp head brings to the table when you strap a 3071gtx to it. i went and bought upgraded cams also, but i went with the p12 cams because they are more turbo friendly than the N1's. unfortunately, like the N1's, they cost around $400.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334816665

anyway, the point of this is, there are a number of interesting possibilities and things to try with a motor with one foot in the fwd world and one foot in the rwd world.

Jasoooooon!

Clear out your inbox or PM me your email address :party:

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