You guys are too used to being spoon fed shit, clutch fork was bent then welded, shits on and the trannies on, its not coming back off for a pic of a bent fork lol.

If you are going to do this swap that part won't hold you up, the Oilpan is the real ----

no, no spoon feeding. if i was wanting you too spoon feed me id be asking for more than just a pic. but whatever, just wanting good documentation. just trying to get a idea of how much i would have to bend the fork, thats all.

Send me 30bux and I'll make it for you if you do the swap ok? lol

It takes like 10minutes to do, it isn't much man.

im just trying to grasp the concept of certain aspects of the build. i can see the swap in person when m2cupcar gets his back up and going.

it will be a while from now before im even close to be able to start planning a swap like this......you thread is pretty much my deciding factor in the matter. :giggle:

Not having the two parts sitting on the floor is just causing insane curiosity. Sean my F block will be on the floor of the garage in a couple of weeks and you can bring up your six speed. From what Dean says it should be fairly obvious what's going on when we stick them together. For me the 6 spd is a better option for simplicity even though I've got two TII trans, so we can just build two forks at the same time.

Dean - what did you end up running for the flywheel/clutch/pp?

Anyone know what the 6 speed and 1.8 rears can handle horse power wise? The 6 speed sounds like the easy way to go if it can take the power.
Thanks.

More than the Miata 5 speed, less than the R trans from the Turbo II. :D

ill be ready to do this when you are, im off on Fridays and Saturdays. so one of those two days i can make it up to your neck of the woods.

9lbs alum 626 flywheel with miata pp and disk.

Rob, you'll need or atleast it what i used, the metal gasket that goes between the trans and motor as a template for the transfer punches. Then you'll be drilling thru the flange. The F block and 6 speed dowels line up so the input shaft will be centered ect.

Only issue with this is there are only a few bolts holding the motor to the trans. I dont see it being a huge issue though.

Motor is offcially in! (although I'm an idiot and didnt take any pics after I finished lol)

Ported out my intake manifold abit and knife edged the runners, swapped intake cam to a FE3N from the FEAP. 9.5ish mm of lift

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Here Rob, see nothing special here.
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That sounds feasible. I think most of the adapter plates use four bolts and nobody had an issue with that. The dowel pin alignment is key. FEAP is garbage- good swap there. In stock form at 9.5:1 the FE made 140ftlbs, so you should see more than that NA... about half what you made boosted. :giggle:

:giggle: Ya its going to be a monster alright, gonna slay some stock b16 civics...I hope lol

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Cas got messed up during the install, officially impossible to install the motor with this oilpan and the cas in.

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clearance is about .125" to the subframe, I'm pretty happy with the way it's sitting now.

I don't think 1/8 inch is enough clearance, when the engine rocks on the mounts I am willing to bet the pan is going to contact the cross member.

Mounts aren't stock, I'm not worried.

I checked the engine rocking and couldn't find any significant compression. It actually rises on the side opposite the opposing mount. Compression will happen on jarring hits but I can't see it compressing 1/8th inch.

^^^ Good to hear. Hopefully I am wrong, but my gut tells me that 1/8" may be cutting it a bit to close. If you find that it is hitting, you can always shim the mounts, but at this point that is putting the cart in front of the horse ;););)

My first round on the mounts required a 1/16" shim at the driver side mount and it solved the problem. My pan was hitting that aluminum collar on the rack- actually riding on it most of the time.

Dean- looks like you have at least six bolts through the engine and tranmission- correct?

4 big bolts and a couple (2) small ones.

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So howz it runnin?! :skid: Break the 6 speed yet? :giggle:

A few comments :

The 6 speed is a pretty good strong box. s15 silvias with boost and 280ps @ crank come with this box stock and don't seem to give excess trouble.

I dislike your mounts as much as I dislike Rob's mounts, you are canterlevering against the box (as is he!). The engine should sit neutrally on it's mounts. There are two ways to do it properly : move the motor back till it balances on the stock points (i'd take this) or move the points forward such that it is balanced where it sits. To not do this puts all of those bolts under constant stress and rather than doing their jobs holding things together, they're holding the weight of the things they're holding together aswell.

As for clearance, you say you have custom mounts, but you don't, you have custom mount brackets on top of stock, pussy, i-broke-3-with-80hp mounts. they compress and extend and move in all directions, by design. If you replace them with something stiffer, like urethane substitutes or a different design then you'll be golden. Otherwise 3mm closes up fast on stock mounts.

How many of the bolts holding your box and block together are through OEM holes in both parts? I assume you only have 2 of the top large bolts in place? And I hope, dear god I hope, that you have two large ones on the wings too? I assume that you do not have the box to block braces in place? Did you ever see a bell housing get torn apart by torque/clutch drops? not pretty...

Lastly, personally, I would ditch the CAS or re-engineer a compact CAS with a single blip. A 36-1 on the crank is the best signal you can feed an ecu, pretty much. Much more compact firewall wise, high enough performance for 20+psi/9krpm/500hp, accurate as can be for angle, just win win win, really.

Sweet swap, though. Box is a good choice. Clearance will become obvious or not. Weight dist and stresses in box/block is/are your choice. I hope the box to block mounting is good, I'm sure you're happy with it :-)

Fred.

Fred,

My mounts are urethane, as I've said before, they arent the stock rubber ones, so ya my motor movement with 300whp wasnt bad (downpipe clearance for my 3" dp was tight and I never had any banging issues), not to mention this et-up will make nearly half the amount of power/torque.

The motor cant move any further back as the CAS barely clears (aswell as the coolant reroute) and I'm not intereted in changing the ppf or driveshaft or machining the bellhosing ect. Its also not moving forward for the same reasons, it is where it is and I'll make the best of it. My concern is my oilpans lack of volume and how far it hangs below the subframe. If I could lower the engine more I would have proper mounts, that is the limiting factor here, not fore/aft placement but height and width (could get creative with the welder but its not necessary imo, atleast not yet)

As for the bolts to the motor-tranny, I have the two tops bolts and the two wing bolts in. The side block braces I was thinking about using and still may in the future is necessary.

I'm not running any boost therefore dont care about the crank trigger vs cas vs anything else.

The more ppl break the 6 speed the more I realize its just as big a piece of shit as the 5 speeds are, I won't bother using this transmission again.

Thanks for the interest.

Currently the itbs are done (just need to drill out the miata header) and I am awaiting some inspiration or motivation to fire it up, I've been busy with work/going back to school in a couple weeks again.

-Dean

Well everything is put together now and I've cranked her over to prime it (40psi oil pressure cranking) but I have no spark. Everything ignition related is from the last motor so it all should work fine, well minus the CAS.

So the troubleshooting begins.

It runs, vids are uploading right now.

First start, iphone video so not the best quality, kinda loud to so watch your volume settings hahaha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8z1x8Vy-hA

I will forever hate you for buying the FE3 from Niel that I was planning to buy >.<
But I'm glad to see it's going to good use :) On a side note, I pick up the built Escort GT on Thursday, are you going to be home on Monday night/tuesday day?

lol I gave you tons of time to buy it :P I didnt even want an FE3 haha

I'm leaving tomorrow afternoon, wont be home til Friday night, lmk.


-Dean

Haha yeah you did, shit didn't pan out it's all good though. Sorry, I meant Monday as in the 30th? I can snap pics of the car and post them for you too if you want. Been itching to see your track Miata for a while now :)

Ya I'll be home on the 30th, start school that day, email me the pics dc2696 at hotmail dot com

Nice job- any progress since the first start?

Gathering my fe turbo swap parts now :) going with this 6 spd set-up.

Well I havent touched it too much in the last month or so, been going thru basiclly a divorce with my gf of 5 years :S and starting school again.

The starter/flywheel combo isn't working properlly. The car grinds and the starter jams ect ect, not sure what the deal is there but I'm going to try a 626 starter inplace of the miata starter as the tooth count is different on them so maybe the miata starter doesnt jive with the 626 flywheel???

Still can't get the car to start on the Megasquirt which is the reason not much has changed lately, stock ecu it starts fine but can't drive it obviously, no vaf lol, just can't get the motor to fire properlly with my mspnp in. Might need a vacuum canister as I have zero vacuum during cranking, could be throwing the ms for a loop. Put the oem fuel pump back in as idle afr's were like 10:1 with the 255 walbro, actually the pump didnt change anything except its alot less noisey now, thats what i get for running a stock ecu with no airflow meter lol

I absolutely love how much oil pressure this motor has, hot idle is 30psi at 800rpm, by 3k its at 80psi :D

Sorry for the hiatus guys life has thrown some curve balls and put cars on the back burner.

You used the first gen rwd 626 flywheel? I'm sure that's what I have and it has a 1.8 Miata pp bolted to it.

No no, Im using a probe/mx6/626 flywheel, with a miata PP and disk.

Then I def think the flywheel and miata starter teeth fit are the issue. That said, I bet you could fit up a start from one of those car's that has the same size flywheel.

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Nothing new yet, finished school and started working so I just started to have money again. Picking up my ecu which was modded for vtps, going to get that figured out on my 10 days off now. Then it's off to my cage builder for a half cage.

Sweet, good luck! ;-)

I dont want to sound retarded "even though i am" but is there anyway i could get quick run down/some type of list of what will be need and what will have to be modified? I know your busy but when ever you get a chance and wouldn't mind it, i would really appreciate it. :makeout:

custum oil pan from scratch or from a steel kia oil pan then modified, a modified oil pick up, modified/custom motor mounts, miata/fe3 intake manifold, or fe3 cut then custum lol, stock kia header for na, or 1.8 header redrilled and portmatched, fe3 dizzy gutted and miata cas installed into fe3 dizzy since its longer to cam. coolant reroute, tapping coolant holes in the back of head for sensors, splicing wires here and there for cas, coolant temp sensors, im running b2200 f2 flywheel/clutch/pp. f2 starter, b2200 bell housing on miata tranny.

either super tiny oil pan with ps, a bit bigger oil pan with manual rack, or spacers in the subframe, or hood scoop.

boat load of time, unless your dean, and money

haha, thanks man :bowrofl: ,i want to get in a school for welding, once i learn i think it would help out alot with making alot of this c**p , and my uncle is very good with wiring so i think this might be possible:giggle:

The revised oil pan is in progress, should be a week or two depending on my welders schedule, looks way better than the old kia steel one so far.

Next swap will be a k20 as this swap makes no sense for power and weight vs time and mods required. Might as well start with a better engine, although its alittle more expensive I guess lol.

In for K20 swap.

I want to see a drive inside video of this badboy,before you put the K20 in.

Yay an update!

Finally done school and time to finish up the neverending project!

Lately I've gotten a few things tackled, new alum tig welded oil pan with increased ground clearance is in, had 3 holes tapped in the side for: dipstick (used SS tubing and swegelock fittings and a moroso dipstick), oil temp and a return incase I ever boost it.

New SS raceland header is on, as usual had to notch and drill out some holes, also its 4-2-1 so the trans had to have some alum shaved off for clearance.

Vacuum manifold is on, and works well but I don't think it will be large enough as I lose vac after 10% throttle :P

Mounted a mech oil press and water temp gauges..

Hasnt been alot of work but between moving and finishing school and starting 2 jobs its been a busy few months.

Rest of the exhaust is in shipping now as is my speedo sensor for the trans, hope to have it on the streets and start tuning this weekend/early next week.

Enough power to spin the wheels(open header in residential so it was short and sweet)..didnt know you could do that NA lol
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I should clarify this issue for future reference.

Indeed the miata start has the both the improper teeth spacing/count and to low of a power rating for the starter.

I grabbed an F2 starter and its working perfectly, only 2 bolts line up but no issues thus far.

Car is done and on the road as of last week. The FE3 pulls pretty decent for an old shitty truck motor, about as quick as a b18c after a header,itbs,flywheel, 6 speed, fe3 cams, ported intake manifold(well whats left of it) and 2.5" exhaust no cat.

I'll have some 1/4 mile times in a couple weeks when i get a friday night off, so far I like it.

Its not as fast as my old motor obviously but it sounds great, has a nice torque curve and so far isnt to bad on fuel.

The 6 speed is working well although I think the pilot bearing is making alot of noise (maybe the aluminum flywheel is contributing to this, i'm not sure atm). The 4-2-1 raceland header made me have to remove one of the trans mounts to the block so atm theres only 4 bolts holding them together. I'm not to worried but obviously this is not ideal. Will address this issue during the winter.

The itbs seem fairly easy to tune with a MAP signal on an ebay vac manifold, signal can get alittle shaky but I'm working on a restrictor to smooth things out.

If you want to mate a 6 speed up to the FE3 its a fairly straight forward process. The dowels on the FE3 block line up with the notches/dowel on the trans, from there you can see where the two top bolts line up with two blank holes (as in there should have been holes drilled in these spots as they are in the right spot just left filled with aluminum) I used the metal plate that goes between the trans and block to center punch the holes in the bell housing then drilled them out. The side mounts can then be drilled once you bolt the trans to the block, and depending on how you go about the oil pan you can have some bracing down there aswell (I don't).

I'm using a probe 2.2 flywheel with a miata pilot bearing and the input shaft line sup perfectly, can say how it would with any other flywheel (depth wise of course)

Any questions or whatever I'll try and answer but really if I could figure this out any one can, no measurement tools required (although they were nice to confirm that everything did indeed fit as it looked like it was going to)

So, pics/vids ect to come but I'll start a seperate thread for that.

-Dean

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For those asking the questions.. Before i started my swap i was one of the guys looking for a "how to" guide to make the swap but once i started i realized how different each swap is. Im just taking it one problem at a time and coming up with my solution to it. The trick is having the right tools, space, and patience to make it happen.

Good to hear its up an running!

such a great build, mad props go to you. wish it was boosted though ;)
looking forward to some videos and pictures. keep up the great work,and keep us updated :)

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40lbs, according to the first post in m2cupcar's build thread.

hey, quick question "i know im probably gonna get flamed on for this" but, lets say i put one of these in a miata,and wanted to boost it. What kinda manifold could i use? i was thinking a 626 aftermarket manifold would work, but i wasn't sure, because its for front wheel drive..? would that make any deference? thanks :)

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The biggest problem with the weight is that it mostly goes higher and in front of the front wheel axis. That's why these guys worked hard to get the engine lower and further back.

DC- install looks good, who cares if it's fast. ;)

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Thanks!

Haha well she may not be 300whp but I'm smiling all day long listening to those itbs!

I have another fe3(usdm) and a holset if I feel the need to flex 400whp 8P

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Just need to borrow a camera with decent sound, my iPhone doesn't do it justice.

shitty and short but its something. and yes the car is that loud lol

http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...rent=001-2.mp4

Does sound nice.

Your "road test" freaked me out a little until I realized the speedo was in in km...



Very awesome swap. I still want to do this one. Cheap 500hp stock internal motors ftw.