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The GTX3071 would be a bolt-on affair, the GTX2867 would require changing my entire hot side setup. That’s not completely off the table. If I did that I would go with krakens GTX2867 kit and just buy the manifold/dp/turbo but then I would have to run internal wastegate and that will come with boost creep issues. Plus the EWG sounds awesome.
the turbo I’m running right now is essentially a 3071. Just a $150 eBay 3071 with journal bearings, so the GTX3071 would be an absolute upgrade and like I said would bolt right up to my manifold and downpipe
I just saw on Pulsars website that the G25-550 has a T3 turbine option with a 3” v-band outlet…… that might be the move right thereeeee 🤙🏼
I don’t mind the lag THAT much that I have right now. I’m smashing corvettes right now which is cool but imagine having that torque that hits at 4500 at 3000 😱. The G-series is like an even better version of the EFR, they make ridiculous torque. I think I may go with the G25-550 with a T3 turbine, no IWG and keep my whole hot side setup
So the car is running pretty good. I made 325whp on 19psi.
One issue I've been having. The car smokes pretty bad after it has been sitting at a stop light for a long time. Exhaust smells badly of burnt oil. I was concerned this might happen, i paid the machine shop $ to replace the vale stem seals and he used a "OEM-manufacturer" brand instead of mazda. So I think the seals may just not be doing the job. The only other thing I can think would be the turbo seals are leaking, and this turbo is old and janky and needs to be replaced, and im now pushing it at psi with a VVT oil pump that hits 90psi by 4000 and stays pegged there until redline (could be more than 90 but the stock OPG only goes to 90)
The only other correlation that this seemingly happened when I deleted the PCV setup and removed any way for the intake vacuum to suck crankcase fumes out . The reason for this is because the excessive blowby from loose ring gaps, and e85 was completely overwhelming my PCV system and i actually had my hotside catchcan explode oil everywhere during a hard 2,3,4 pull to 120mph. I have minimal oil in the catch cans now,
So my solution for this is to first put an oil restrictor that I have on my turbo. Its an ebay one that I drilled out and its probably too big to do anything but its definitely a smaller hole than what I have now. Im running -4 line to no restrictor with high pressure oil pump, albeit the turbo is journal bearing. Its worth a try. Next would be replace all the valve seals, I have a set of mazda seals that came with my engine gasket set from TCM. and ill also be doing an compression and leakdown test now that the engine is good and broken in, to make sure everything is mecahnically sound and working how it should.
Couple of updates on the car:
-The FM Level 1 clutch is starting to slip in 4th gear a little bit and sometimes a tiny bit in 3rd. It’s not every time but it’s getting more common. 303wtq currently so it’s pretty much above rating. This soft clutch is probably saving my 5 speed at this level.
-I started doing poly bushings this week. Did all upper control arms last week, left lowers today and will do right lowers tomorrow. Wednesday alignment.
I really love the stance of my car on these 15x9 225/45s. It looks serious!
I got rid of the eBay BOV for a 50mm TiAL and swapped my Hallman Pro RX MBC for a Grimmspeed MBC. Getting the colors more uniform.
AND last but not least, my friend finally got his custom 10 spline ACT 6 puck clutch disc in for the T5 adapter setup that he worked with Corky Bell to create. Corky welded the adapter plate to the Miata bellhousing and created a custom shifter extension to place the shifter in the right place for the miata. They’ve done this in hopes of creating a production kit for this trans (which will allow you to run the Miata diff ratios instead of needing to diff swap like with the getrag/ZF trans swaps)
Quick update on some changes:
LS2 truck coils
JDMSpeed 10mm plug wires
245/40/15 Hankook RS4 tires
-10AN catch can setup
Couple other small things
Blew up the 5 speed after about 6 months and 6000 miles at 310-380wtq. No launches, slow shifts, lazy turbo, full face organic disc, etc. Every little part gives a little and it all works together in harmony to prolong the life of the 5 speed. 1 week with the 245s and 3rd gear vanished while I was trying to run down a Hellcat Charger 😂
-ATI Damper installed the his week. Timing belt changed with new pulleys (no more squeaking)
-FM front timing cover/water neck block off
-Picked up Corbeau FX1 Pro because it’s my favorite seat and comfortable as hell. Cheap too. Got this one for $200 from my buddy. I’m gonna try out a Destroy or Die side mount bracket to see if it will work for me with this seat and get an idea of what bracket I might need or if this one will work. Also modifying a RevLimiter gauge face a bit with Adam to get the design exactly how I want it. Here’s a rough idea of what I’m going for. The cars coming together, slowly but surely.
My 5 speed lasted 6 months at 350-400hp. When I blew it up I replaced it with another 5 speed and it lasted a month before locking up in traffic and nearly causing an accident. Needless to say, I upgraded to a 6 speed. Running 1qt Motorcraft/1qt Redline Shockproof and it shifts like butter
I had purchased a nearly-brand new FM Level 2 clutch here that had disengagement issues. It works perfectly fine for me, so I got a brand new FM2 for $170. Not bad. Also installed an eBay FX 12lb chromoly flywheel.
My gas tank has had a crack for a while that I repaired with tankweld and 3M 5200 but the e85 eats thru everything, so I finally dropped the subframe and welded it up, cleaned everything under there and got er back in. No more fuel leaks every few months.
I also replaced the drivers side door handle because it broke and I did my window bushings with delrin since the stock bushings were completely gone and the window was flopping around. Got
The car is QUICK! I love driving it. Any car that’s lined up next to me I’ve smoked. V8 Camaro’s, a couple modified automatic GTI’s, a Tesla Model 3, a few modded CTSV’s, corvette C5, M3, etc. I haven’t lost a race yet. Some bigger money, quick cars. But just average “fast” cars, really. Time to step it up and make this thing REALLY fast. I wanna hang with Z06’s and Hellcats.
I bought a fishdog speedyefi so I can run sequential spark, fuel, EBC, VVT, VSS and all that stuff which is pretty difficult to do on the PNP. Ill be redoing my entire engine harness, which I’m really excited about. My good friend just did his and I love it. I’ve also been HIGHLY considering going to a CXracing tubular manifold and ditching this awful log, but that’s down the line. MeisterR ClubRace coilovers are next!
I’ve done so much stuff to this car. By the time I sell it the mod list will be too long to even type
You will like the fishdog. Its fairly capable for the money.
You can get decent performance from a cast log manifold without as much risk of cracking and warping issues that can sometimes accompany tubular headers with the heat, weight and thermal expansion/contraction from a turbo over the long term. Granted you may leave a few ponies out to pasture, but you would have to weigh the benefit of not having to potentially repair cracks and milling flanges over the long run. If you are looking for max power and dont mind the risk of potential maintenance work on the manifold over the long term, then a properly designed tubular manifold can be of benefit. The early offenhauser powered turbo indy cars used a manifold that was very close to a simple log manifold and they didnt lack for power. I've dipped into the 6.50's in the 1/8th and looking to go quicker with a simple junk cast manifold.
It looks like you are wanting to start pushing this thing. You may want to consider getting a dragy. I have found it to be a very useful tool for getting maximum performance when road tuning. It can help you sort out best gearing, rear alignment for best traction, timing and boost curves, shift points etc... A lot more goes into getting best performance other than just peak power numbers.
Yup! Still on the same busted old turbo I pulled off that janky parts car on the first page of this thread 😂 Ive decided on the Pulsar GTX3067. I’m going to purchase that in the next week or two
You will like the fishdog. Its fairly capable for the money.
You can get decent performance from a cast log manifold without as much risk of cracking and warping issues that can sometimes accompany tubular headers
It looks like you are wanting to start pushing this thing. You may want to consider getting a dragy. I have found it to be a very useful tool for getting maximum performance when road tuning. It can help you sort out best gearing, rear alignment for best traction, timing and boost curves, shift points etc... A lot more goes into getting best performance other than just peak power numbers.
Yes I’m very excited to get the fishdog installed and get EBC tuned and ditch the wasted spark/batch fire. I’m just gathering things to build the harness at this point.
i have been on the fence about tubular manifold for a while now. I may or may not do it. At this point I love the external gate so kraken isn’t really an option. I’d hate to ruin that manifold cutting into it. I would like a nicer looking manifold and I like turbo placement with the CX mani, plus the new one is thick and durable. But it’s not a priority at all. Maybe I will maybe I won’t, we’ll see. But I will carefully weigh the pros and cons before making a decision.
i was looking at dragy’s the other day actually. Definitely going to get one soon. I got a little 5th gear pull on video here, I’ll see if I can post it. At about 370-380whp in the video
Here’s the 5th gear pull, 60-100mph-ish or 100-200kph basically. Approx 5.5 seconds (just roughly based on the video) will need a dragy to get a more accurate figure but I’d say between 5 and 6 seconds
Here’s the 5th gear pull, 60-100mph-ish or 100-200kph basically. Approx 5.5 seconds (just roughly based on the video) will need a dragy to get a more accurate figure but I’d say between 5 and 6 seconds
You will find the dragy to be a great tool once you get it and start incorporating the information from it into your tuning process. Plus it will give you pretty accurate data to compare with others.
The only gripe I have with the dragy is that it wont validate runs it sees as more than 1% downslope. That should really be 1.5 to 2% in my opinion. In my experience with literally hundreds of test with the dragy that extra .5 to 1% makes virtually no difference in the times as best I can tell. If the road has some dips but is overall still flat it may interpret those dips as downslope and not validate the run. Going from 1 to 2 percent would validate a lot more runs.
You will find the dragy to be a great tool once you get it and start incorporating the information from it into your tuning process. Plus it will give you pretty accurate data to compare with others.
The only gripe I have with the dragy is that it wont validate runs it sees as more than 1% downslope. That should really be 1.5 to 2% in my opinion. In my experience with literally hundreds of test with the dragy that extra .5 to 1% makes virtually no difference in the times as best I can tell. If the road has some dips but is overall still flat it may interpret those dips as downslope and not validate the run. Going from 1 to 2 percent would validate a lot more runs.
Oh okay, so 200kph is 124 I didn’t know that. Or maybe I did and I just wasn’t thinking right when I posted that: I didn’t even upload the video LOL it must have been hella late/early in the morning or something.
AND last but not least, my friend finally got his custom 10 spline ACT 6 puck clutch disc in for the T5 adapter setup that he worked with Corky Bell to create. Corky welded the adapter plate to the Miata bellhousing and created a custom shifter extension to place the shifter in the right place for the miata. They’ve done this in hopes of creating a production kit for this trans (which will allow you to run the Miata diff ratios instead of needing to diff swap like with the getrag/ZF trans swaps)
I need more info on this, like is it in production yet or can I have them make me one as well?
I need more info on this, like is it in production yet or can I have them make me one as well?
Soooo, he just got the car started this week, finally. He believes the transmission needs a rebuild, 1st and 5th pop out and do not like to stay in gear. I will say that every custom part that corky machined was done poorly and either had to be modified or completely redone/replaced. The shifter setup is janky and feels like **** compared to the Miata shifter. But there isn’t anything on the aftermarket that puts the shifter where it needs to be for the Miata. I haven’t heard anything about production any further and my friend kinda got a bad taste in his mouth after all the very simple mistakes and problems he had. I mean corky literally welded the adapter plate on backwards to the bellhousing initially. He had to source a whole new bellhousing and weld it the correct way. It has been an uphill battle to get this to work. I say all that to say: find another route.
06-25-2021, 02:14 PM
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