That fufu GRATATA. ramble..i mean build thread
 

I started another thread in the DIY turbo section which is obviously the wrong place and obviously before I explored this site enough to find the proper place. That being said, I'm too lazy tonight to add the pictures that I have, so I'll do that tomorrow, but this will be the initial write-up of my progress so far.

I got my first Miata in May of 2016 after my Mazda 6 got rear ended in evening Philly traffic. I had very little technical experience with cars, my dad and brother were the gearheads growing up. Looking for a new car, I knew I wanted something small and fun. Found a 1990 Classic Red NA6 at a dealership and bought it, hindsight being 20/20, I would have looked longer for a 1.8 probably, maybe an NB, but above all a car that was rust free. Anyway, I learned to drive stick after we got back, and then I immediately wanted to look into modifying the car. Like a 24 year old idiot, I immediately found grainy videos of guys doing 2JZBROO $WAPZ with fat vape clouds everywhere and wanted to look into trying that. I literally emailed a shop to ask them if they could help me do that. Oh god, embarrassed to type some of this out, but it was part of the journey that I accept. One day I realized that I should "settle" with a 1.8 swap and turbo it. Found a 1997 discarded drift slut at a junkyard for $700 that started immediately, tore it apart mostly for motor, diff, driveshaft. Such a great find for that price.

Found this site and started reading and trying to figure out how to use the search function. Almost immediately overwhelmed with terms and graphs and pictures that I couldn't recognize or make sense of, but kept soldiering on. Let's get to the build.

#Goals: Try to make a car that can handle whatever I throw at it, will be improving as I go along. HP? whatever the engine will safely do with an allofit build - I don't want to steal fae's idea so I'll call this a mightaswell build. Throwing out numbers, plan on up to 20psi, but again that's just something I want it to be able to handle. Standard MT build from most of the posts I've seen:

The Big Stuff:
BP4W head, stock valves, took it to machine shop and having it checked out and Supertech double heavy springs installed
VICS IM
Cometic .045 head gasket
Built block: Wiseco 83.5 8.6:1 on Manley H beams with ACL HX Std; ARP head and main studs
6 speed from a 1999; Nielex short shifter; Flyin Miata 10lb flywheel from donor car; ACT XT 6 puck
4.1 Torsen from the donor car; 1.8 single-piece axles
Tokico Illuminas on FM shocks; have Racing Beat sway bars from donor car but haven't tried to install them yet, may need to drill another hole in the front one (1.8 -> 1.6), may just buy a new front for 1.6 chassis; FM adjustable endlinks (do I even need these since the car isn't lowered?)
ECU: MS3X
TSE EFR 6758.

Other stuff:
Depowered steering rack from Hahnlsquid
949 Cooling kit (radiator, reroute)
D585 LS Coils
Walbro 255
ID1000s
15x9 6ULs on 255/45/15 not sure which tire yet
SuperMiata Damper
Boundary oil pump

More stuff:
Complete PU bushing kit
AC delete
Airbag delete
Want minimum 4 point roll bar with door bars, frame rails eventually
Replacing clutch master/slave and have SS clutch line
Replacing tired and rusted old nuts and bolts
949 hybrid motor mounts possibly
Buying ThirdGen's valve cover with the welded pvc vent port
Replacing all gaskets and seals

There are probably more things I'm forgetting, I'll add along the way



Things from the above list that I have not bought yet, plus residual parts:
Left to buy:
Turbo kit and all accessories
Cooling (radiator, reroute, hoses)
Wheels/tires


EBC: need recommendations
Gauges:, oil press, temp, boost will be on ebc
Valve cover, possibly oil pickup, VICS IM
Exhaust: Artech 3"
Misc nuts and bolts that need replacing
Fluids, gasket maker, other sealants
Assorted shit that will pop up and give me headaches.

You do understand this is literally the easiest part of all this?

You do not need to replace your stock FPR, to answer your query.

Thanks shooter, I did read that the 1.6 FPR will do, so that's a relief.

Ez pz amirite

Truthfully, our IC setup is going to be sized for 95% of applications (i.e. everything under 400whp). If you really want to make good use of that 7163, you're going to want to cut up the front of the car and fit a Precision 600hp.

Thanks for the info Sav, according to precision's website, the 600 is 31 1/2"L X 8.0"H X 3 1/2"D compared to the 350 you guys sell, with a difference of 5 inches in length and 2 inches in height. I'll look into what I would have to cut to make the bigger IC fit. Another question that I'm sure you could answer: with a bigger intercooler, actually with an intercooler in general, how much is the airflow to the radiator affected in NAs with the stock front end? Are there good any ducting mods to make sure enough air is passing through to the radiator or will it work as is?

I bought a 1.6 FPR thinking it would work with BP4W head + NA 1.8 fuel rail. It doesn't - the hose barb side has a kink that makes it interfere.

I used my stock 1.8 FPR flipped upside down.

The EFR turbos come with a boost control solenoid bolted to them, and the Megasquirt can control it (at least, I'm pretty sure it can, I haven't had a chance to try it yet).

Any idea if the 1.6 FPR would work with an NB fuel rail? I'm using a VICS IM and possibly that fuel rail. I will have both my 1.6 and 1.8 fprs so I'll figure it out somehow. More research required.

Yes, the efr turbos come with a boost control solenoid, and megasquirt can control it, but i would like to be able to change my boost settings on the fly if that's possible. I need to read more about how it works. If I'm completely wrong, I'll know sooner than later.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...80308/page350/


read this.

Actually now that I think about it I'm definitely using the NB fuel rail. The 1.6 FPR wouldn't work with the VICS manifold.

MS3x can do table switching on an input, you could run a highboost/lowboost table via a switch on the dash.

The 1.8L FPR's vacuum nipple faces into the cylinder head IIRC, so your vacuum line will eventually tear, lean the motor out, and blow it up. :hatecat: The 1.6L FPR works, you just have to straighten that nipple out. Alternatively, you can source the EUDM 99-00 FPR from a return-style NB, which drops in and fits perfectly. Even fires the fuel line down, which is slightly preferred over the upside-down 1.6L FPR which puts the return line up.

Debatable. OP will need a DW300 at minimum, and a Walbro 450 if he intends to run E85 on his setup. Both of those will cause crappy idle with the stock FPR unless you put them on a rewired solid-state relay, which requires PWM control from the MS3. Even if he does do the SSR, OP may discover that to make his power goals without buying a $900 set of ID1300s, he may need more base pressure than the stock 43psi FPR has to offer. At that point, an adjustable FPR becomes required.

That's what I really had in mind, a potentiometer is a neat idea to solve that.

Okay, so here comes a decision point: I had thought about going e85 because it's just better for a setup like this, but had to weigh in availability of e85 stations in my area, there is one in my city and 2 others within an inconvenient 25 miles of me. I have 93 everywhere, so that's what I was planning on using. What do you guys do when e85 stations are few and far between for street cars?

And thanks for the reality checks whenever i finally think I know what I'm doing lol

where has this info been for the dozen NB swaps I've done. Does this mean 60psi? Off to scour eBay.

I forgot the e85 part of the equation when I said that. Lack of attention to details on my part. We don't have e85 here so it doesn't come to mind like it should.

Sixshooter what do you run on?

This is a NA 1.8 FPR on the NB Rail & VICS intake.

(click to expand)
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Are you talking about the in-tank FPR from an nb? I searched for a bit for EUDM FPRs and not coming up with anything. As far as fitment for a 1.8 FPR goes, how would something like this fare? Fuel Delivery System / Fuel Rail I'm averse to adding more lines than I need to because that just opens up more opportunities for leaks, but I'm curious what people's thoughts are on the firewall mounted fuel "rail".

No, I mean the EUDM/JDM return-style NB regulator. It was not a US part and is a little hard to find in the US. The 1.6L FPR does the same job, just not quite as cleanly.

I would never run that kind of fuel delivery system on my car.

Ah okay, explains hard to find. I had noticed that nobody runs that fuel system, why not?

All we have is 93 octane or race fuel

It's solving a problem that doesn't exist

The problem being their claim that fuel injectors don't get even pressure? I understand I have a couple options for this FPR issue, and i would like to keep things simple if possible. For my current potential setup, is there any reason I shouldn't just get an aftermarket rail and fpr? FWIW I'm a noob with a big budget, so I want to learn this thing in and out and get what it takes to make this car as reliable as possible. I'm still combing through different threads to see what you guys have done before to hopefully eliminate the dumbest of questions

Woah woah woah!

This is fan-fucking-tastic to know!

If the vacuum line clears (pics are ambiguous), then it's intake manifold dependent. The 1.6L FPR is still a better option.

Some of the Thorntons in the area have E85 pumps.

Nearest single location is 29 minutes one way. No e85 in this half of the county or the next county.

So to straighten the nipple out I just heat it and slowly straighten it?

Pretty sure it is 43.5 + reference. I bought (2) used ones from England and am using one. In Japan it fed from the unused nipple right on top of the NB1 manifold for a neat install. See my build thread, post 79.

PM me if you are interested in my 2nd one. $28 delivered.

Else, search for BP5B13280 and it will be about $30 delivered from England.

Sick! Thanks for the part number, just ordered one.

Heres an update to parts and stuff.

Been steadily getting parts in the mail. Ordered a big assortment of nuts and bolts from McMaster and Bolt Depot to replace stuff that needs to be replaced. Good ones were 4 M10x1.5 10mm bolts for plugging the oil jets. ID1000s came today from 949. Yesterday got my wideband and gauge, Walbro 255, and BE oil pump. Other parts that I have now are my short shifter, poly bushings kit, depowered steering rack from Hahnlsquid, ACT XT 6 puck and pressure plate, Gates water pump, SuperMiata Damper, new master and slave cylinders, Hawley LS coil brackets and coils with custom plug wires, probably more stuff I've forgotten but that's the major stuff. I've finished assembling my MS3X but need to adjust the pots and put the harness connector together. I think I have just about everything I need to start putting the short block together. I'll drill and tap my oil pan this weekend, gonna do TSE's turbo kit and that comes with all the fittings and lines.

Some things left to buy: wheels/tires, radiator and coolant reroute, IC, BOV and charge piping, turbo kit, alternator belt...small stuff

Got my EUDM NB FPR as recommended, I can't wait to start putting this thing together

Where are the Pictures?

I have some individual pictures, i want to do a total picture sometime today, it'll look awesome.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...13076682d7.jpgBrackets not pictured, Hawley Performance sent me some D585s
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4980b0179e.jpgCleaned up the 6 speed
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48fa3194e5.jpgScrub a dub din, just simple green, degreaser, wire brushes, steel wool and elbow grease
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bfce3b392.jpgDirty, compare to above picture
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c5919c3a5c.jpgMS3X kind of done-ish
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82e7329493.jpgGates Water Pump, master and slave, Moss had a discount on stuff and i got a bushing kit, might as well.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ffd0e1a785.jpgSuperMiata Damper. I didn't go ATI because this was cheaper and seemed to be made FOR the car, looks great.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ac745b3ba.jpgNielex Joy Stick off of Rev9
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...95c696db9f.jpgACT XT 6 puck, I went this way just to overbuild the car where I can, I inderstand it's a wear part, probably won't be amazing to street a lot, but again, overbuild and take a step back next time rather than find out if things break.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5377fc058b.jpgHahnlsquid makes depowered steering racks. Thanks again to him
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f808f3651.jpgEUDM FPR for NB, ideally, as I was told, this should do well to drop in and not give space or angular issues with lines.

sorry for vertical mode

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe8371fcc8.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5fe22e0bd.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...defec150b0.jpgDid a few more things today

Man, I'd really consider an aluminum bung on the pan if you already have it off.

For what? Oil return? Already have it tapped!

I woke up in a cold sweat last night having a nightmare about a tranny. Not the usual kind, but one of my transmission breaking because I'm an idiot who wants too much. After reading and searching a bit more, I'm scaling back the trubo goals to the 6758 with probably a conservative tune. I'd rather drive the car than have a dyno queen.

I don't think that's enough RTV on the oil pump - it's going to leak past the empty areas around the bolt holes.

I used the paper gasket in addition to the RTV, is that alright?

I dont think you can run a gasket on pumps that have the oring on the feed to the block, only rtv. Earlier pumps didnt have a recess for the oring and they were to be used with a gasket.

Thanks for pointing that out. I just searched a bit more and found that another user on mnet asked about the same thing. 1.6 engines didn't use the oring and the later 1.8s didn't use the gasket. I'll go back tomorrow and remove the gasket and put more RTV on it. And I had just gotten the oil pan back on today lol. Gonna have to re-seal that flange too, but there's the right way and the wrong way.

Went back in, removed the paper gasket and RTV'd the oil pump much better this time.

Head gasket in place, studs in, head on torqued to 65 ft/lbs

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3aa12c9f8e.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3d7f991aed.jpg

:bigtu:

I know the feeling. Im gonna have to crack open my freshly sealed oil pan and mbsp to plug the oil jets after learning about some issues with them and builds with forged pistons that have oil drain back holes. :rolleyes:

All Miatas run the o-ring. All of them (well, 89-05). Believe me, I had a 1.6, I left out the o-ring, you need it.

You could have left the paper gasket in, but if you're RTV'ing a gasket on both sides to make it properly seal, you don't need the gasket. So it was removed for later engines.

Ya got your plug bolts ready?

I RTV'd the heck out of it second time around, it should be good. These rtv tubes are annoying, trying to get it out i had to roll it and then rtv started coming out of the sides. Messy af

Had that happen trying to put in an exhaust gasket once. I squeezed too hard and it blew out the back. Of course the silicone was at body temperature so I didn't realize it until I felt something goopy on my arm. That took a while to clean up...

After reading through JeffBucc's thread, I almost feel like I'm neglecting my Miata. Some day I will have the time and drive to do 50% of what he has done.

You need one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IQ539C

Greatest thing ever for sealant dispensing.

Damn Imma have to get one for future, that would be so much neater of a job too.

This is what we use at work exclusively. Comes with a handy tube roller that I hold on to for any future tubes. Really should bring one home for tooth paste...
TOYOTA OEM FACTORY TRANSMISSION SILICONE GASKET SEALANT FIPG ORANGE | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/RTV-Silicone-...dp/B0002KL6D8/

One experience with this style of RTV applicator and you'll never fuck around with another rollup tube again.

Fucking one touch Amazon just ordered a can of that stuff Andrew. Aidan, $20 and it's yours for the engine build.

Not yet. Decided I'll trim some bolts when I get the hankering to pull all that back apart.

What Curly posted had me kind of perplexed. I fired up the old epc and looks like mazda went to the o-ringed pumps in '93. Heres a screenshot of '92. All pumps after that were non-gasket, according to the parts catalogue. I dont own a miata, and I am not challenging the post, just interesting none-the-less.

I come from the land of fwd BP powered cars and have had both variants of pumps