Gross.
#241
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
I just went with the R1Rs. I figure my car will never see a track, I sometimes find myself 10 hours away from home and it's pouring rain.
Probably should have just went with NT01s.
Probably should have just went with NT01s.
#248
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
Considering the amount of parts and projects currently in your garage I would think those expenses would fall right in line
Streeting R-comps in the rain - that's where I say **** that noise. Track rubber for track. Something that won't kill me for driving around.
Streeting R-comps in the rain - that's where I say **** that noise. Track rubber for track. Something that won't kill me for driving around.
#249
The other projects have more than enough storage to carry a set of wheels/tires in the trunk and don't need a trailer.
And the one that was to be running R-Comps is probably getting parted out. I'm over it.
The brawler is street tires only. R-comps would probably make the transmission explode.
#250
This car didn't have working brakes, so let's fix that.
Rear brake caliper was shitting brake fluid everywhere. This seems to have blown out the wheel seal and cooked the wheel bearing. Got to remove it all with hand tools only. YAY. Got a new one pressed in for $32.
Bad rear wheel bearing. by concealer404, on Flickr
Sport brakes don't really fit with the non-sport brake shields. Mild customization required.
"Customized" brake shield for Sport brake by concealer404, on Flickr
Rear Sport brakes installed.
Rear Sport brake installed by concealer404, on Flickr
Front Sport Brake installed.
Front Sport brake installed by concealer404, on Flickr
A whole lot of FML. I think i need to get a proportioning valve and stop trying to integrate race parts into a street car system. So stupid.
Bane of my existence by concealer404, on Flickr
Anyways, car still doesn't have working brakes. I have two leak points right now caused by faulty hardware. Front wheel bearings actually turned out to be fine, but my driver's front upper balljoint is toast. Le sigh.
Rear brake caliper was shitting brake fluid everywhere. This seems to have blown out the wheel seal and cooked the wheel bearing. Got to remove it all with hand tools only. YAY. Got a new one pressed in for $32.
Bad rear wheel bearing. by concealer404, on Flickr
Sport brakes don't really fit with the non-sport brake shields. Mild customization required.
"Customized" brake shield for Sport brake by concealer404, on Flickr
Rear Sport brakes installed.
Rear Sport brake installed by concealer404, on Flickr
Front Sport Brake installed.
Front Sport brake installed by concealer404, on Flickr
A whole lot of FML. I think i need to get a proportioning valve and stop trying to integrate race parts into a street car system. So stupid.
Bane of my existence by concealer404, on Flickr
Anyways, car still doesn't have working brakes. I have two leak points right now caused by faulty hardware. Front wheel bearings actually turned out to be fine, but my driver's front upper balljoint is toast. Le sigh.
#251
The good news: This thing has ZERO rust. It's just as clean underneath as the old MSM was, which was a California car.
It also doesn't leak a ******* thing. (Well... besides brake fluid.) Motor, trans, diff. All bone dry.
This was the perfect car for what i have in mind. So happy, despite being extremely unhappy about the current brake situation.
It also doesn't leak a ******* thing. (Well... besides brake fluid.) Motor, trans, diff. All bone dry.
This was the perfect car for what i have in mind. So happy, despite being extremely unhappy about the current brake situation.
#252
Emilio sent me a replacement brake line with the quickness because he's the man.
Installed that today, as well as a Momo Competition wheel i had leftover. Heading to Earl's on Monday to figure out a solution for brake lines and prop valve to finish up the master cylinder install and finally see how this brake setup is, hopefully.
Paid for a pair of Cobra Monaco Pros today, will hopefuly take out the old interior this week and start cleaning up everything in prep to put the black interior in.
Trying to decide which Megasquirt to buy later this Spring/Early Summer.
Installed that today, as well as a Momo Competition wheel i had leftover. Heading to Earl's on Monday to figure out a solution for brake lines and prop valve to finish up the master cylinder install and finally see how this brake setup is, hopefully.
Paid for a pair of Cobra Monaco Pros today, will hopefuly take out the old interior this week and start cleaning up everything in prep to put the black interior in.
Trying to decide which Megasquirt to buy later this Spring/Early Summer.
#253
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lake Forest, CA
Posts: 7,956
Total Cats: 1,008
I might have an MS2e PNP for '99-00 for sale soon. Current research is telling me it doesn't control VVT so I'm thinking since I won't be needing it for a few more months I'll likely sell it and buy a different ECU as the time comes closer.
LMK if you're interested. More research to be done on my end (going to PM REV with my serial number for confirmation) but thought I'd let you know.
LMK if you're interested. More research to be done on my end (going to PM REV with my serial number for confirmation) but thought I'd let you know.
#258
The 949 willwood kit is a little bit fussy getting it hooked up to a 99 non abs car. I've attached some photo's of how I did it to my car. The silver looking line is a brake line i made out of 3/16" steel line and 10mm flares sourced through speedway motors. I used an eastwood flare tool. I had issues getting the flexy lines that 949 provided to go in without leaks on my car. If one of the lines were about 3-4" longer it would go in easily while drunk, high or w/e. As is it's really difficult to get the front port to the factory or aftermarket prop valve without it leaking at one of the fittings.
If you'd like I can send you brake line, 10mm flares and a template (brake line bent to shape) of what I did if you cover shipping costs. The flare tool is at Moti's so If you need me to flat out make one for you I can... It will just take me a bit (1 week +/-) till I'm up at his place and have access to the flare tool.
Edit: hitting post temporarily so I don't lose the above post and then i'll edit answering your megasquirt question... hold please, please hold.
If you'd like I can send you brake line, 10mm flares and a template (brake line bent to shape) of what I did if you cover shipping costs. The flare tool is at Moti's so If you need me to flat out make one for you I can... It will just take me a bit (1 week +/-) till I'm up at his place and have access to the flare tool.
Edit: hitting post temporarily so I don't lose the above post and then i'll edit answering your megasquirt question... hold please, please hold.
#259
Edit: AAAAND I typed up a huge megasquirt addition to this post and lost it before I hit post. Le Sigh.
In my opinion there is only one choice for what to do for megasquirt on a 99. If I remove my bias I can conceed that there are actually 4 options but my own requirements for simplicity eliminate 3 of those.
Option 1 -2) Megasquirt PNP 2 or MSLABS MS2 Enhanced for 99 - This is the cheapest of the options especially if you can find one used. Plug and Play to your ecu connector, Should be cheaper, both come with great support. No VVT support and aging megasquirt software/hardware. You'll have to add a vvtuner if you want to put a vvt motor in later.
Option 3) Megasquirt PNP 3 with an adapter harness you either DIY or a dongle from boomslang. Modern ecu hardware with built in VVT support. PITA because there is no plug and play option at this time. Lots of nice features over the ms2 unit. The most expensive of the three units but domestic support if you need to mail it in.
Option 4) MS3 Basic from MSLabs - Plug and play, vvt support, sweet features, awesome support. Not cheap but also not the most expensive.
I went with option 4 because I wanted something simple and have the ability to drop any motor in my car should something happen. I actually have a vvtuner handy for when I need to pass smog or should something happen to my ecu and i have a track day coming up. I honestly don't see options 1/2, and 3 as an option at all. Getting the VVTuner setup is a pita and having to deal with it along with a megasquirt is a non-starter for me.
Reverent has been awesome to deal with for me and this ECU has been nearly as reliable as the oem ecu. I had an issue originally that turned out to not actually be an issue with reverents hardware but rather an issue all to myself. He couldn't have been more helpful, supportive etc. He checked the ecu and turned it around promptly etc.
YMMV but I think you should plan for the inevitible dropping in of a vvt motor. Doesn't matter if you're turbo or NA once you blow that 99 it only makes sense to go with a vvt head once you rebuild. At that point, it's just so much easier to have an ecu that has built in vvt support.
In my opinion there is only one choice for what to do for megasquirt on a 99. If I remove my bias I can conceed that there are actually 4 options but my own requirements for simplicity eliminate 3 of those.
Option 1 -2) Megasquirt PNP 2 or MSLABS MS2 Enhanced for 99 - This is the cheapest of the options especially if you can find one used. Plug and Play to your ecu connector, Should be cheaper, both come with great support. No VVT support and aging megasquirt software/hardware. You'll have to add a vvtuner if you want to put a vvt motor in later.
Option 3) Megasquirt PNP 3 with an adapter harness you either DIY or a dongle from boomslang. Modern ecu hardware with built in VVT support. PITA because there is no plug and play option at this time. Lots of nice features over the ms2 unit. The most expensive of the three units but domestic support if you need to mail it in.
Option 4) MS3 Basic from MSLabs - Plug and play, vvt support, sweet features, awesome support. Not cheap but also not the most expensive.
I went with option 4 because I wanted something simple and have the ability to drop any motor in my car should something happen. I actually have a vvtuner handy for when I need to pass smog or should something happen to my ecu and i have a track day coming up. I honestly don't see options 1/2, and 3 as an option at all. Getting the VVTuner setup is a pita and having to deal with it along with a megasquirt is a non-starter for me.
Reverent has been awesome to deal with for me and this ECU has been nearly as reliable as the oem ecu. I had an issue originally that turned out to not actually be an issue with reverents hardware but rather an issue all to myself. He couldn't have been more helpful, supportive etc. He checked the ecu and turned it around promptly etc.
YMMV but I think you should plan for the inevitible dropping in of a vvt motor. Doesn't matter if you're turbo or NA once you blow that 99 it only makes sense to go with a vvt head once you rebuild. At that point, it's just so much easier to have an ecu that has built in vvt support.
Last edited by EErockMiata; 03-15-2015 at 05:38 PM.
#260
The 949 willwood kit is a little bit fussy getting it hooked up to a 99 non abs car. I've attached some photo's of how I did it to my car. The silver looking line is a brake line i made out of 3/16" steel line and 10mm flares sourced through speedway motors. I used an eastwood flare tool. I had issues getting the flexy lines that 949 provided to go in without leaks on my car. If one of the lines were about 3-4" longer it would go in easily while drunk, high or w/e. As is it's really difficult to get the front port to the factory or aftermarket prop valve without it leaking at one of the fittings.
I like your install, that's pretty tidy. I appreciate the offer, but i have templates already set up for what i'm going to do. Looks pretty similar to yours, but that 3-way female block is going to be down on the shelf from where you have it i think. I'm going to have to make one extra line from scratch compared to what you have, but between that and the OEM lines that i'm going to cut and re-flare, i shouldn't need any adapters, since i'll just go ahead and put the appropriate M10 and 1.8" NPT where best suited.
Hopefully will have pics of finished setup today after i run to Earl's and back to btabor's place.
We threw my old Momo Competition at the car on Saturday.
Momo Competition, Carbing High Grip by concealer404, on Flickr
Last edited by concealer404; 03-16-2015 at 07:23 AM.