Since the offset is referenced to the centerline of the wheel it doesn't seem like it should matter.

I agree, but then width is measured weird, right? It's measured bead to bead?

I think i need to bug someone to measure their 6ULs as well as Padlock when we compare our Longerdongers.

FWIW, your rotors show the same wear onto the "ears" that mine did, but they don't have the huge cracks in them. So while I agree that they are probably too small, I don't think that's likely to be the cause of the excessive wear.

The stuff that's embedded in your wheels and paint is more likely bits of rotor than bits of pad.

If the V8R powerlite rears are the same mechanism as the FM ones, make sure that the mechanism clears the wheel properly. I trashed a pair of rear wheels on that.

--Ian

Also, on the topic of wear onto the mounting ears, there are two reasons for this. One is that Wilwood appears to be supplying rotors that are 1mm narrower (in terms of friction surface width) than they were a couple years ago. The other is that Hawk pads (DTC-60s at least, I haven't measured any others) are about 0.5mm wider than the Wilwood pads (at least, the BP-20s that I use for street pads).

--Ian

Wheel width is bead to bead. Add another 10mm per side to get the full height dimension (so a 10" 254mm wheel measures 274mm tall when sitting on the ground). (10mm for at least the 6UL and Jongbloed Aero500, I measured both.) A 9" 6UL measures ~160mm from hub face to inner edge, less 10mm, less ~114mm (4.5"), gets you 36mm. 10" 6UL measures ~162mm from hub face to inner edge, less 10mm, less 127mm (5"), gets you 25mm.

I think you have +10s.

Yes, you measure bead to bead.

I think that's why you see lots of the knock off wheels with things like 8.25 or 8.75" widths, because they aren't measuring it properly.

Looked at a couple properly functioning Dynalite kits while i was down there. Due to pad shape (inner edge isn't radiused, it's just straight), they wear into the ears. No reports of issues from this by the owners.

Ok yeah. I'm 99.9% sure these are +10s, then. Skipped the 10mm step and probably didn't have scientific levels of accurate measurement. Confirmation to come tonite.

Note, that Savington took out the 10mm twice, which isn't really necessary. Per Savingtons numbers, 274 / 2 = 137, 162 -137 = 25.

The Hawk HB100s (the pad shape that fits a dynalite and can fit a dynapro with a grinder) is straight across the bottom.

The Hawk HB540 (Dynalite-specific) and HB542 (Dynapro-specific) are radiused. I'm comparing the width on the HB542s to a Wilwood Dynapro pad, and the Hawk is slightly wider.

--Ian

Good thing this is all standardized, right?

Standard grinder fitment.

Been running around like crazy and my jack died so i haven't had a chance to take the car apart again yet, but amused myself this morning by doing a quick edit on two photos i took at MATG. One of them finally captures the insanity/stupidity of the wheel/tire "fitment." I'm betting squarely on the side of Savington at the moment.

According to every wheel/tire calculator ever, this wheel should "poke" 23.7mm further than the old 15x9 +36, which fit with GOBS of room under this very car. Also: do these tires look a little stretched to anyone else?

Anyways, enjoy.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/...e79b7a18_b.jpg
_IGP9940 by concealer404, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/...1c17ee5e_b.jpg
Major Hater 2017 by concealer404, on Flickr

Man, I want a NB....

Your wheels are broken bro.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fdca346072.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2789cad708.jpg

If they aren't 15x10, that's crazy, I can't believe that is something that would happen by accident. I assume you got them from Phils, have you contacted them about the possibility of some mixup?

ring ring,

Phils: Hello, Phils tire, how can I help you.

You: Yeah, I bought some jongbloed wheels from you, they seem to be 15x11 even though that size doesn't exist.

Phils: Holy shit, we've been looking for those, those are top secret new wheels, we were testing the prototypes. You haven't told anybody about this have you?

You: well... nobody important.

When i first tried to fit these, specifically around the time i discovered that they were borderline unsafe to use on stock studs, period... i had contacted them a few times. Especially considering that they were delivered 5-6 weeks later than promised, they were pretty unaccomodating. I suspected that something was wrong then, and voiced my concerns but was met with "Yeah well other people run them and nothing changed from the run last year, and they're stamped +25, have a nice day."

DIdn't think much of it until more pics of other people running the same setup specs-wise started showing up, and then i saw a few in person, and everyone saw mine.

My jack is dead, wife has my truck, i'll be buying a new jack tomorrow and we can finally get to the bottom of it tomorrow. I owe everyone measurements of the wheels, and Savington measurements of my defective rotor(s).

And i need to order replacement brake stuff since i got a pretty quick 200 mile $300 learning experience when it came to those.

But yes, the "poke" of these wheels is absurd. Bear in mind the body of my car has been pulled. A LOT. And it STILL looks like that.

The lug studs not being long enough makes me think somebody machined the mounting pads for the wrong offset casting. I'm curious what it ends up being.

Have the wheel pads machined to fit? That's what Rota does for higher offset, I'm sure it reduces the wheel's integrity.

have you contacted johnlongdingdongs directly and see if they can help?

I have not. I need to procure a new jack and then take measurements. I mean the pictures should be enough, but i'd prefer to have hard numbers before i start really laying carpet bombs. I do not blame Phil's for their initial responses to me. They didn't have control over when the shipment came from China, and without numbers, i sound like any other whiny dude on the internet that doesn't know how to use a fender roller.