Hdizzle's Slow Winter Build
#22
Some more pre-MK Turbo updates...
I replaced all of my coolant hoses, and "while I was in there" finishing my FM clutch install, I decided to put in the M-Tuned reroute.
I took absolutely no chances with this... thread sealant on the threaded fittings, and a fat bead of red RTV where the housing meets the head. So far no leaks from the M-tuned unit...
Resurfaced flywheel.... I had this done by a local "general" machine shop rather than an automotive one. This may have been a blunder, as I will describe later.
Damn that looks good in there.
I went with the FM 2.5 suspension kit. It's really a comfortable ride, and with those fat sways installed, it sticks really flat in the corners. No regrets with this setup.
My latest install, the FF610 injectors. Very straightforward job, the car even fired up on the first try. I did however **** up my reqfuel and had a number of like 12.4 to start with... my wideband was pegged at 10 and it reeked of unburnt gas. Whoops! I ended up using 6.3, which was a much better place to start. Since re-autotuning, the car runs great again.
I replaced all of my coolant hoses, and "while I was in there" finishing my FM clutch install, I decided to put in the M-Tuned reroute.
I took absolutely no chances with this... thread sealant on the threaded fittings, and a fat bead of red RTV where the housing meets the head. So far no leaks from the M-tuned unit...
Resurfaced flywheel.... I had this done by a local "general" machine shop rather than an automotive one. This may have been a blunder, as I will describe later.
Damn that looks good in there.
I went with the FM 2.5 suspension kit. It's really a comfortable ride, and with those fat sways installed, it sticks really flat in the corners. No regrets with this setup.
My latest install, the FF610 injectors. Very straightforward job, the car even fired up on the first try. I did however **** up my reqfuel and had a number of like 12.4 to start with... my wideband was pegged at 10 and it reeked of unburnt gas. Whoops! I ended up using 6.3, which was a much better place to start. Since re-autotuning, the car runs great again.
#23
miata bros, I have been having an issue with my newly installed FM clutch chattering/shuddering in first & reverse gear. It's 100% perfectly smooth and buttery driving from a cold start.
It only does this when the car is thoroughly warmed up... like 15-20 minutes of steady driving. It's driving me absolutely nuts.
some details:
-I had the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop*
-I replaced the rear main seal & halfmoon oil pan seal**
-I blasted the flywheel & pressure plate with brake cleaner prior to bolting everything up
-I installed and torqued the flywheel/pressure plate to spec (not with air tools)
-I changed the slave cylinder & flushed the fluid
-I used just a very small amount of moly lube on the input shaft before reinstalling the transmission
-I adjusted the clutch pedal per FM's specs
-I babied it for the first ~500 miles
* This was a general machine shop, not an automotive machine shop. They told me they took the same amount of material off of both surfaces on the flywheel, but I have no real way of verifying. This is one possible explanation for the shitty shudder.
** I used the flyin miata RMS tool, but regardless, I could've fucked up the install. Likewise for the half moon seal.... it's possible there's oil leaking onto the flywheel/clutch assembly. BUT... there's NO fluid leaking out of the weep hole, and the car DOES drive perfectly until it's fully warmed up. If the clutch was contaminated with fluids, wouldn't it shuddering all the time?
someone tell me everything is going to be OK....
It only does this when the car is thoroughly warmed up... like 15-20 minutes of steady driving. It's driving me absolutely nuts.
some details:
-I had the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop*
-I replaced the rear main seal & halfmoon oil pan seal**
-I blasted the flywheel & pressure plate with brake cleaner prior to bolting everything up
-I installed and torqued the flywheel/pressure plate to spec (not with air tools)
-I changed the slave cylinder & flushed the fluid
-I used just a very small amount of moly lube on the input shaft before reinstalling the transmission
-I adjusted the clutch pedal per FM's specs
-I babied it for the first ~500 miles
* This was a general machine shop, not an automotive machine shop. They told me they took the same amount of material off of both surfaces on the flywheel, but I have no real way of verifying. This is one possible explanation for the shitty shudder.
** I used the flyin miata RMS tool, but regardless, I could've fucked up the install. Likewise for the half moon seal.... it's possible there's oil leaking onto the flywheel/clutch assembly. BUT... there's NO fluid leaking out of the weep hole, and the car DOES drive perfectly until it's fully warmed up. If the clutch was contaminated with fluids, wouldn't it shuddering all the time?
someone tell me everything is going to be OK....
#25
I'm still covered by the Flyin Miata 90 day warranty, so I sent them the pics.
Long story short, the manufacturer had me send the used disc/pressure plate back to them. They determined that the pressure plate diaphragm was defective, and are sending me new components free of charge.
I'm satisfied with level of service received. And I'm relieved that my incompetence isn't to blame for the chatter in the first place!
#26
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Is that the FM1 or FM2?
The stock clutch in my 01 does this, it goes away if i slip the clutch a little more than normal.
Neither of my FM clutches have ever done it though.
The stock clutch in my 01 does this, it goes away if i slip the clutch a little more than normal.
Neither of my FM clutches have ever done it though.
#28
Thanks... I am generally not a "**** it, who cares" kind of guy, but with the amount of work involved in pulling the trans, I contemplated just living with it.
I'm glad I sacked up and did the work though.
#30
Do it dude... I've since replaced the clutch/pressure plate with the new unit they sent and it's been as smooth as butter after ~250miles. The manufacturer, Competition Clutch, was super easy to deal with and shipped the replacement out quickly. The warranty rep said my original pressure plate wasn't holding anywhere close to the weight that it's rated for.
#31
Some pre-MK Turbo install pics....
I splurged on the intercooler and went with a Vibrant unit from Amazon.. here it is after several coats of flat black paint. I don't like drawing attention to myself.
My mounting solution. It matches up perfectly to the factory bolt holes for the A/C condenser, which I am keeping. I'm really happy I didn't buy the more expensive IC that was prefabbed with mounting tabs.
I drilled and tapped the cold side for my IAT sensor, which I screwed in with a generous serving of grey RTV. Nice, stable temps that I haven't seen higher than 85F thus far. The 3/8" NPT tap that I used for my oil pan return is what I used for this as well.
Working out the intercooler piping was a challenge. Especially right off the intake manifold, as I have a coolant reroute + larger CXracing intercooler. This routing ended up working for me.. I ended up drilling and tapping for a 3/4" barb on the IC pipe that goes downward off of the silicone 90, and running two sections of 3/4" hose connected by an "L" junction to connect it. I'll post some more pictures later this weekend, as I couldn't find any similar arrangements before I set out to tackle this problem.
I splurged on the intercooler and went with a Vibrant unit from Amazon.. here it is after several coats of flat black paint. I don't like drawing attention to myself.
My mounting solution. It matches up perfectly to the factory bolt holes for the A/C condenser, which I am keeping. I'm really happy I didn't buy the more expensive IC that was prefabbed with mounting tabs.
I drilled and tapped the cold side for my IAT sensor, which I screwed in with a generous serving of grey RTV. Nice, stable temps that I haven't seen higher than 85F thus far. The 3/8" NPT tap that I used for my oil pan return is what I used for this as well.
Working out the intercooler piping was a challenge. Especially right off the intake manifold, as I have a coolant reroute + larger CXracing intercooler. This routing ended up working for me.. I ended up drilling and tapping for a 3/4" barb on the IC pipe that goes downward off of the silicone 90, and running two sections of 3/4" hose connected by an "L" junction to connect it. I'll post some more pictures later this weekend, as I couldn't find any similar arrangements before I set out to tackle this problem.
Last edited by hdizzle; 04-23-2016 at 12:01 AM.
#34
Do it dude... I've since replaced the clutch/pressure plate with the new unit they sent and it's been as smooth as butter after ~250miles. The manufacturer, Competition Clutch, was super easy to deal with and shipped the replacement out quickly. The warranty rep said my original pressure plate wasn't holding anywhere close to the weight that it's rated for.
Glad they took great care of you, I have had great luck with them in the past as well.
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