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HornetBall's Build #2: Meet Red
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I started doing track days in July, and I'm an addict. So, I decided to join the cool kids and build up a dedicated track rat -- using Emilio's normally aspirated builds as inspiration (see https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...project-63125/). The mantra for this build comes from Colin Chapman . . . "Simplify, and add lightness."
$5000 got me a great start . . . a Red 1995 with hardtop and fresh motor, a trailer and a U'haul full of spares. I bought this stuff from ManiacMitch on the DFW Miata forum -- he's a friend of Hustler's but has decided to move on to a Subaru BRZ. Some bad cell phone pix for your enjoyment: Trailer, car and U-haul https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1388904362 Nice original paint https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1388904362 Purty https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1388904362 Goodwin BBK https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1388904362 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1388904362 Mitch was heavy into Auto-X and time trials. He bought the car with 63K and put 20K on it over the 15 years he owned it. He made a bunch of mods . . . some good, some a bit on the cheap. Medium to Good stuff: Tight car, only 83K Hardtop HDHCHTSD with Harness Cross Brace Momo Tornado Steering Wheel Mazdaspeed Short Shifter RB Sway Bars (1.25" Tubular front with brace kit, 5/8" adjustable rear) Goodwin BBK with Hawk HP+ Pads FM Shock Mount Tophats FM Rails with Butterfly Factory chin spoiler with front brake ducting 95 Block/99 Head and IM/01 10:1 pistons (3K miles since build) MSPNP9495 w/ AEM UEGO WBO2 RB Header w/ceramic coating Fidanza Flywheel and ACT XT Clutch Enthuza 2.5" Exhaust FM Radiator 01 Torsen (4.3:1) Koni Yellow Sports with Ground Control Coil-Over and 500/325 Depowered rack and AC delete Cheap stuff: Poly Race Seats (RCI "8000") 15x6.5" Rota "Circuit 8" Wheels -- 2 sets I'd like to start tracking it this Spring to give the silver car a break. But there are a few things that I'd like to do first: 1. Xida CS and poly bushings 2. 15x9s with decent rubber 3. Tune the MS properly (not well tuned right now) 4. Ultrashield SM Seats 5. Steering wheel quick disconnect 6. Figure out why the engine is using oil -- might have to re-ring it. It definitely needs a rear main seal. 7. Coolant reroute. 8. Do some more lightening. Long range plan: 1. Cage 2. Turbo? LS? Will I want more than 150HP? As I mod, I'll be selling parts, so standby. Anyone know if those FM tophats will work with Xidas? Open to suggestions. What do you guys think? |
Nice pickup. I'd wanna track the less clean/low mile car but if its already got all the stuff done to it, why not.
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If you are going to re-ring it, why not put on one of Emilio's brand new CNC heads? :brain:
It seems it doesn't have a coolant re-route, so do that at the same time. ;) |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1088608)
Nice pickup. I'd wanna track the less clean/low mile car but if its already got all the stuff done to it, why not.
I also put a LOT of miles on my daily. Silver is past 210K. My other requirements for a daily are non-race seats and a soft top. I like putting the top down. :)
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1088619)
If you are going to re-ring it, why not put on one of Emilio's brand new CNC heads? :brain:
It seems it doesn't have a coolant re-route, so do that at the same time. ;) The existing heads were mildly ported during the rebuild. My plan is to do as much NA horsepower as I can do without spending a bunch. Good tuning and maybe a BP5A cam. Then go get max seat time. In time, when I want more powah . . . turbo? LS? Everybody needs a turbo Miata and a V8 Miata, right? Good call on the re-route. I forgot to put that on the list. The parts are already on the workbench. After seeing how effective a re-route was on the silver car, I'll never go on track without it. BTW, I'm a member at MSR-C now. Any of you gayz find yourselves in the DFW area, give me a call and we'll head out! |
Cool car, i'd love to do an NA build but the altitude here KILLS that idea.
Subbd for glory. |
Well, meet the newest "Club Orange" member. Dropped coin on Xida's.
Probably no 6ULs until Summer. Any other 15x9s worth considering? The TR C3M's are cheap . . . but nearly 16#s! Seems there are some new design 15x9s over on Goodwin's site. Hmmmm . . . . I'm dreaming up all kinds of "Simplify, and add lightness" ideas. It's liberating doing a track toy. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1088674)
I don't think Mitch ever broke this engine in -- just went racing with it right off the bat. It may just need to be street-driven to let oil consumption stabilize.
And I seriously doubt street driving it is going to make any difference at this point. If the rings weren't sealed especially well and it uses some oil, it's probably going to keep using oil it's whole life. ALSO, nice car! I wish I would have been patient and picked up something like this instead of the huge POS I bought. Good luck with the build |
Looks like a really nice car and should be a blast. Way to go with the Xidas. Why didn't you just by Dustinwhatever's car that's FS in the classifieds? Long drive I guess.
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1089768)
Uhhhh....that is the proper way to break the engine in
And I seriously doubt street driving it is going to make any difference at this point. If the rings weren't sealed especially well and it uses some oil, it's probably going to keep using oil it's whole life. ALSO, nice car! I wish I would have been patient and picked up something like this instead of the huge POS I bought. Good luck with the build It is nice living in a rust-free area. Slim pickings in the rust belt.
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1089780)
Looks like a really nice car and should be a blast. Way to go with the Xidas. Why didn't you just by Dustinwhatever's car that's FS in the classifieds? Long drive I guess.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1089790)
I actually wasn't looking for a car. I was having a blast with the silver car. But it was a deal I couldn't refuse. I've since come to the conclusion that everyone needs at least 2 Miatas.
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REALLY sweet deal Hornetball! Geez if this thing had been for sell when i was shopping...it would have been mine :drool: Oh well timing! :skid:
Edit: The more i read the more i envy! |
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1090023)
I'll have to show this to my wife, I'm not sure if she'll buy it though...
1. 1990 Turbo Miata (silver, usual daily for up to 1 passenger); 2. 1995 Track Miata (red); 3. 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible with 440 (metallic red + acres of chrome -- my first car); 4. 1981 Mercedes 380SL (wife looks really good in her high school dream car); 5. 2009 Pontiac G8GT (12 second car for when I have more than 1 passenger); 6. 2000 Ford Expedition 4x4 (daughter's high school/horse towing vehicle -- will become my car towing vehicle); 7. 2007 Ford Expdition EL (wife's daily, all 5'2" women NEED the largest possible vehicle). So, in reality, everyone needs at least 2 Miatas and at least 2 Expeditions with a few other specialty vehicles thrown in. Get your wife her high school dream car and you get carte blanche! On point for the thread, Emilio recommended against using FM tophats with the Xidas since the Xidas naturally have more travel available with a shorter shock body. |
Some Progress on Oil Consumption?
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I've mostly been ordering parts and they're slowly coming in. In the meantime, a peak under the hood:
General layout. Ricer STB (someone on Craigslist will love this), FM tophats on the front?!?, Jackson Racing Intake. I'm looking forward to building my own intake and doing some Virtual Dyno comparisons. I'm sure I can do better than the JR with small diameter tubing and 360 degrees worth of flow direction change. Plus, I'll be able to seal up that radiator. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390008349 Lots of oil and clutch fluid at the back of the engine. Here's a shot of the curly-Q -- completely unsecured. I've got a braided line on order from TSE to get rid of this. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390008349 Unsecured Curly-Q and oil grime from below: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390008349 Wet slave cylinder and shifter boot: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390008349 More grime on the back of the engine. Valve cover gasket? Almost certainly a bad CAS O-ring: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390008349 In addition to the external leaks, which are not insubstantial, I think I may know why the car's using so much oil. When I first got the car, the oil dipstick handle was, of course, broken. But in fine TX style, the handle had been replaced with epoxy and a 9mm shell casing. I'm not into that, so I purchased the correct dipstick for a 1995 1.8 -- part number BPE8-10-450. Now, because the engine is a 1995 block (has oil ports on driver's side) with 1999 head and IM (VICS), I "ASSUMED" that the 1995 block retained its dipstick tube and dipstick. But when I match up the new dipstick to the old, the new one is longer. "F" on the new one lines up with "E" on the old one. If the tube is the 1995 version, that means the PO ran severely overfilled. Could this be the reason for the oil consumption? BTW, these are the oil dipstick/tube part numbers from the Mazda part books: 90-93: B61P-10-450C (Tube is B61P-10-440) (DIP STICK (B61P-10-450C) - $10.92 - B61P10450C) 94-97: BPE8-10-450 (Tube is BPE8-10-440) (DIP STICK (BPE8-10-450) - $18.24 - BPE810450) 99-05: BP4W-10-450 (Tube is BP4W-10-440A) (DIP STICK (BP4W-10-450) - $19.99 - BP4W10450) Anyone know how to visually identify the difference between the 94-97 vs. 99-05 tubes? Or should I just buy a 94-97 tube for ~$20 to be sure? Planning to fix the clutch hydraulics, CAS O-ring and correct the oil level then drive it on a trip to Houston. We'll see how it does. Track day tomorrow. Track days and associated maintenance activity certainly cuts down on project car time. |
Looks like you got a great car to start with. Best way to start a project is by buying someone else's when they get bored.
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It would seem so. He knocked off $2K from the price because of the oil consumption issue (thinking it might need rings). Could it be just the wrong dipstick? That would be a break.
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A little bit of progress this weekend. Started pulling out the interior to get ready and mount my new Ultrashields! Also made some interesting discoveries. Some pictures:
This is what I started with. A couple of cheap, poly drag racing seats poorly mounted to the floor of the car. The harnesses are long-since expired (dates from around 2001-2002). Also, look at the angle that the lap belt is mounted. Instead of using OEM seatbelt mount points, he drilled holes and mounted to sheet metal FORWARD of the seat's belt hole. I'm afraid I'm just scratching the surface . . . https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390785774 How's this for forward visibility!! I'm sure it would work great on track. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786064 OMFG!!! I'm generally OK with safety wire, but not here. This will get brackets. Note that this is an aftermarked hardtop -- not Mazda OEM. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786217 This is actually one of the better seat belt mounts (note that an OEM hardpoint was available to the left in the picture). The bracket is positioned so that it will bend when a load is applied -- which is a no-no. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786475 Lots of cheap wiretaps. This will change. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786599 The "all fans on all the time" mod. Wiretaps used for high-amp loads. Yuck! OTOH, that's a nice FM aluminum radiator under there! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786747 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786826 Helmet hook! LOL! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390786954 |
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Things are looking up! Visibility much improved:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390787792 Test fitting the 16" Ultrashield Spec Miata seat. Lots of room. Next up is pulling the carpet so I can start welding up a seat mount and seat back brace. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1390787902 |
Guy was resourceful, anyway. Eek.
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...this is why I avoid 'modified' cars unless the PO is overtly OCD.
-Zach |
Everyone has their personal standards. I can just imagine what a guy like Jeffbucc would say about my cars. LOL. I used to do crap work like this too -- when I was in high school.
There are still a lot of positives and good parts with this car. I'm still really happy with the deal. When I went to see it before purchasing, I saw most of these issues. The stuff I'm whining about is pretty hacked, but the good parts (Wilwood BBK, FM radiator, professionally rebuilt engine that only needed the correct dipstick, etc.) are quite good. But it goes to show, when buying a modded car, inspect and fix the living daylights out of it -- especially the safety bits. Anyway, I'm done whining about the PO. All further posts will be legitimate build thread posts showing things that I'm building. I guess I mainly made these negative posts because they were safety related and might help others. |
So its not burning oil? Just needed the correct dipstick?
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Yep. That was an easy one.
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Great! Wish this was the case on my NB. :(
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Holy Smokes Rick! Nice find(aside from all the jerry rigged shit) glad to see this car is in your hands now.
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Be glad your curly-Q is unsecured. The easy "remove the curly-Q" step when installing a SS line such as TSE's (love mine) becomes quite difficult when you have to break out the impact gun, extensions, and swivel sockets to break a transmission to engine bolt for that stupid bracket.
The FM front shock hats are actually a nice bonus. If they're on all 4 corners you basically just knocked $200 off the buying price. They're $263 new, and don't really wear out... |
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
(Post 1096414)
Holy Smokes Rick! Nice find(aside from all the jerry rigged shit) glad to see this car is in your hands now.
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1096465)
Be glad your curly-Q is unsecured. The easy "remove the curly-Q" step when installing a SS line such as TSE's (love mine) becomes quite difficult when you have to break out the impact gun, extensions, and swivel sockets to break a transmission to engine bolt for that stupid bracket.
The FM front shock hats are actually a nice bonus. If they're on all 4 corners you basically just knocked $200 off the buying price. They're $263 new, and don't really wear out... I plan to sell the FM shock hats once the Xidas come in (IAW Emilio's recommendation). I'll also be selling the Koni Sports and various Eibach spring sets I got with the car. Be watching the classifieds. Every little bit helps. |
Im sure you already thought about this or its already done, but don't forget to pull the pass airbag out. Do you think you may go 1.6 dash instead? I swapped mine and even with out the airbag I notice the 1.6 dash weighed significantly less.
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What seats are those that were originally in the car? Like the exact seat.
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RCI 8000. About $50 but not quite worth that much. It would be OK for drag racing though.
Racer's Choice Inc. I have two for sale now . . . not worth the shipping to Florida though. |
Update!
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Wrenched on the car this weekend. Some pics:
PO had added some ducting to the lip spoiler. Good idea, not so good execution. Air directed so that it cools the brake shield, but not the brakes. Hmmmm . . . . https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1393267946 Anyways, pulled. We'll see how it does. If I need ducting, I'll do it right and get the air to the brake discs. Nice Wilwood BBK though. Also pulled the exhaust. Holy cow was this car running rich! Cat was melted -- no wonder it was falling on its face above 5K! A test pipe is going on because racecar! Engine pulled. Last time I did this, I pulled the hood. This time around, the hood was held up by gas struts and I had plenty of room. This is a job that gets easier with repetition. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1393268286 WOW!! Look at all this stuff. It makes the 1.6 in my '90 look like a 1966 383 by comparison (the 383 is under the cover in the background :D). My plans for this area are coolant reroute, EGR delete and pull/plug the mini coolant hoses. I will be keeping the VICS solenoid and running from the MSPNP. PO was running from an MSD RPM window switch. Should clean up well. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1393268565 CAS O-ring anyone? Since the heater hose got oil soaked, it will be replaced. This is what happens when you go to the track with the engine grossly overfilled with oil. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1393268672 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1393268672 |
Funny seeing the Mitsubishi logo on that cover above the heater hose (I'm assuming that's the CAS cover?).
lol @ brake ducts. You're doing an awesome job... what else would we expect? |
Wow, that is one basket case. Looks like a good car to clean up though still, so no hate here.
What's up with the FM tophats in the front? That can't be very useful.. lol. Let me know if you want to sell them! I need them for the rear, you know, where they actually do you some good. |
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1105636)
Funny seeing the Mitsubishi logo on that cover above the heater hose (I'm assuming that's the CAS cover?).
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The front suspension is bottomed out, I wonder if he was wanting to get lower by using the FM hats? Not sure why he didn't just buy 6" springs, they're most likely 7".
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That dip stick looks JB Welded lol I bet Trey gave the previous owner a ton of shit about this car. Its only up from here. Cant wait to see more Rick
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1105652)
The front suspension is bottomed out, I wonder if he was wanting to get lower by using the FM hats? Not sure why he didn't just buy 6" springs, they're most likely 7".
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I will be selling the FM tophats, front and rear. I have Xida's on the way and Emilio didn't recommend keeping the tophats. When I pull them, I'll shoot you a PM.
The front fenderliners are rubbed-through in a few spots. Front suspension was bottoming out . . . but not on the bump stops. That's silicone on the oil tube. I'm guessing the oil level was above that!!!! There are little dabs of silicone and tie wraps all over this car. But it's cleaning up. The actual cause for all the little problems are revealing themselves, and none of them are a big deal. I think it's going to be a great track car. |
I'll be honest with you guys, at first I found the cludged stuff pretty annoying. But now I just kind of feel bad for the PO. The workmanship wasn't there, but he spent gobs of money on this car. He bought and installed just about everything any vendor thought to sell him. And the records he kept . . . wow . . . like aircraft logbooks (he was a former Navy avionics tech -- I think he said he did a cruise on the Saratoga which was the ship I flew from). But despite it all, the car wasn't reliable for him. With a supercharger and bandaids, he went through 3 engines. In the end he went back to normally aspirated and a MSPNP. I've got reams of E-mails between him and Hustler talking about tuning the MS. He just didn't know where to start.
It's a cautionary tale. First of all, Mazda designed and built a darn fine car. Mod carefully. Take vendor claims with a grain of salt. Don't skimp on the workmanship. JOIN MT.NET!!! This is probably the best Miata site for straight talk on mods from people that actually have a clue. It's still going to be a great track car! |
Great job! I really enjoy reading all of your updates.
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1105768)
Great job! I really enjoy reading all of your updates.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1105721)
2. Turbo? LS? Will I want more than 150HP?
...I'll be honest with you guys... Fwiw- the SCCA GCR is actually a free PDF download now, so there's really no excuse for not following a sanctioned safety build any more. And most of the harness manufacturer's also offer their installation guides as free downloads. Schroth Current Instructions PDF |
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 1105882)
You seem like an honest guy and I suspect until your beating Spec Miata times, you won't be looking for more (boosted) power. Of course I'm making this call from your posts. ;) The best thing I ever did for myself was leave my car stock- from autocross all the way to wheel-to-wheel. Slow car forced the driver to learn IMO.
Fwiw- the SCCA GCR is actually a free PDF download now, so there's really no excuse for not following a sanctioned safety build any more. And most of the harness manufacturer's also offer their installation guides as free downloads. Schroth Current Instructions PDF This is Rick we are talking about. Im sure the car will end up with a decent little turbo set up that doesn't overheat on the track and makes over 200. Dude knows everything miata turbo. He understands from what Ive heard and seen how to build a proper safe car. It would be a shame to let all that knowledge go to waste on a N/A. Not to mention he already tracks his 1.6 turbo. I think he needs to take advantage of the newly acquired 1.8 and run with it. |
I'm going to chime in on that, and say that I think he should leave it N/A for at least a season or two and drive the piss out of it. Once he starts pushing the limits of the N/A car, then he should apply boost via the form of a mild turbo setup.
Or just k swap this thing down the road, it looks like that is going to become a "thing" :giggle: |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1105908)
I'm going to chime in on that, and say that I think he should leave it N/A for at least a season or two and drive the piss out of it. Once he starts pushing the limits of the N/A car, then he should apply boost via the form of a mild turbo setup.
Or just k swap this thing down the road, it looks like that is going to become a "thing" :giggle: Haha |
What Rob said!! Great links Rob. Thanks.
I want to just be on track as much as possible with this car. So, I'm emulating Emilio's 95R and shooting for as much reliability and safety as I can. I've got the manufacturer's harness mounting sheets and they will be followed to a T. I am grateful the PO never had an accident with this car, because it was unsafe. I got into the 1:29s on MSR-C's 1.7CCW Sunday AM with the Silver car (it was hard -- lots of traffic including some that just didn't want to give a point-by to a Miata). Then I came home and pulled the engine on the Red car. I mentioned to the wife that it was a manly day. She laughed. |
Miscellaneous Chassis Work
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We're all born with the right to wield a BFH. However, when you do this to a Miata . . . I think that right should be revoked.
Firewall: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Driver's Side Shelf: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Driver's Side Shock Tower (I think this was done to fit an M45): https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 So, I spent the better part of a day in awkward yoga positions trying to straighten this out with my BFH. Some cursing ensued. Here's where I ended up . . . it's not Jeffbucc caliber, but better than what I started with (frustrating): https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Also cleaned up the IAT wiring. PO had a Jackson Racing CAI installed, which is why there was an extension installed. I'm going to fabricate my own CAI. I left the butt connectors on the IAT wires for later (no, the butt connectors won't stay). BTW, I'm selling the Jackson Racing CAI. It's the 1.8 model (for a MAF). Asking $200 + shipping? Before: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 After: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Cleaned up the manual steering conversion using a couple of plugs from Advanced Autosports. Before: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 After: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Also, removed the pinstripes. Who puts pinstripes on a Miata? This car will get some stripes, but they won't be pinstripes. Before: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 After: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Got some tires in. 225/45R15 Rivals for the Red car on the left. 205/50R15 Rivals for the Silver car on the right (the ones I have now are just about done). Man, I can't wait to get those 225's on track. MEAT! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 I'm going to run dedicated oil and water temperature gauges. I gutted my center eyeball vents and did a test fit. All I can say is that Mazda MUST have designed the eyeball vents for this purpose. They couldn't fit better: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 Also noticed that the braided SS brake lines on the car were unsheathed. Surprising, I've never seen unsheathed brake line before. Without sheathing, dust and grit gets into the braid and grinds away at the lines. There is no way to inspect for this . . . the lines always look fine until they suddenly let go. I have no idea how old these lines are. I'll be calling 949 first thing Monday for replacements. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395009907 |
Some Engine Work
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Started working on the engine. First, some cleanup. EGR delete courtesy of TrackSpeed (keeping VICS solenoid on right -- will control from the MS):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Who does this to a perfectly good CAS?!? Why?!? Used CAS on order. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Inspected the rear main seal. No issues here, it was dry: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Pulled the plugs. They look good. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Pulled the valve cover. It looks like someone didn't get the memo on where to apply RTV. It was slathered all over the front and rear edges, not just in the external cam cap corners. Despite all the excess RTV on the cam cover, I discovered that there was no RTV at all under the external cam caps. And the bolts holding the rear cam cap for the CAS weren't tightened! I undid them with my fingers. Mystery solved, that's the oil leak. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Tore down the front of the engine to put in the waterneck block-off. Other than a missing oil pump bolt (circled), everything looked good up here. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Adios waterneck and stupid, little coolant hoses: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Waterneck block-off courtesy of TrackSpeed. Freeze plug drove in easily with a 19mm deep socket and a bit of old-school Indian Head shellac. Note that the bolt holes for the waterneck are blind. You need to take that into account when re-using the OEM waterneck bolts so you don't bottom them out. Three flat washers per side shimmed them up nicely for me. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Pulled the little L nipple from the waterpump inlet pipe. I'll be tapping this and putting in a brass plug. No more little coolant hoses. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 Pulled the OEM BP4W intake cam and installed the new BP05 cam. Checked valve clearances. I need to swap a couple of shims and buy one new shim. Got off pretty easy on that one. Question for you guys . . . in my quest to delete little coolant hoses, I'm removing the water-oil heat exchanger hoses (the car will get an air-cooled heat exchanger for the oil). Before I mess with this nipple on the back of the head, does anyone know how it attaches? Is it pressed or threaded in? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1395012918 All in all, good progress this weekend. I'll take engine work over body work any day. |
Lol at the RTV everywhere. i just ordered a set of the 225/45/15 rivals. I'm pretty excited for them to arrive. Good progress on the build!
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Yeah, RTV everywhere except where it's actually needed.
Opinions on carpet . . . pull . . . keep? I'm putting in some tunnel mat so not too concerned about exhaust heat. |
Found the answer on the nipple . . . https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...le-head-73402/.
Bottom line, don't mess with it. Planning to just plug it with JB Weld, put a 1.6 "cursed water plug" over it and move on. If I ever decide to use it again the JB Weld will be easy to drill out. |
The answer always is the nipple...at first.
Also, I don't know how hard it would be to do but I have the old 1.6 engine sitting in the corner of my garage if you want the head off it.
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1112211)
Opinions on carpet . . . pull . . . keep? I'm putting in some tunnel mat so not too concerned about exhaust heat.
If you have a pressure washer it makes it a cinch to clean the carpet and then stain it black again. Thing about going carpetless(not sure if this car is a track car, can't remember) is the massive amount of work it takes to remove the exposed paint/metal/rust/sound proofing and make it look good. |
It is a track car -- HPDE and maybe time trials (not W2W). I do have a pressure washer. The OEM carpeting is actually pretty light. An experienced guy I know who did strip the carpeting says he wishes he hadn't -- more because of insulation/heat resistant properties than anything else. OTOH, the carpet is flammable.
If I did delete the carpeting, I would basically just clean things up and brush paint the interior a light color for heat. Because racecar (I love saying that)! |
Tear the padding off the back of it, pressure wash it, and throw it in then. Far less work then even basic painting.
I laid my carpet in the drive way, soaked it in water, add a ton of soap and degreaser, and let it bake/soak for several hours. Then literally everything came out. I didn't even really need to stain it it looked so good. Yet, we both know that isn't enough for me... It may be flammable but if there is a fire, it probably won't start in the interior, and I'm sure that will be the least of your worries(engine bay/running in terror). |
I'd pull the carpet for a dedicated track car. I had to run it in showroom stock way back. It eventually wore and snagged the throttle pedal at one point. That was fun. If you want heat insulation, put it on the other side of the tunnel and around your exhaust IMO.
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Awesome project.
When I look at this, it fills me with an urgent need to get a house and garage. Your cleaning up of the car just looks pleasant, happy and nice. Fills me with warm and fuzzy longing. |
Rick! Way to go on the engine bay. I cant believe you brought it back to life after that.
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 1112262)
I'd pull the carpet for a dedicated track car. I had to run it in showroom stock way back. It eventually wore and snagged the throttle pedal at one point. That was fun. If you want heat insulation, put it on the other side of the tunnel and around your exhaust IMO.
I've got some of that good DEI stuff coming. Plus, my header is ceramic coated. Between those two, heat control should be in good shape. I need to pull the carpet to fab up my seat mounts anyway (welding + carpet = fire). I think I'll just leave it out and see how it goes. I can alway put it back in.
Originally Posted by Sentic
(Post 1112265)
Fills me with warm and fuzzy longing.
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
(Post 1112280)
Rick! Way to go on the engine bay. I cant believe you brought it back to life after that.
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Hey Rick are you going to Harris Hill May 25th?
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??? Is there some kind of event going on?
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Awesome updates here. I can't believe the fael you ran into in your engine bay, i kind of feel bad for the guy who did that to fit a POS supercharger actually.
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