Is vented really needed on the rear? I'm going for light as possible for TT classing.
I wanted to at least do TSE's upcoming 2 piece rear rotor, but it was supposed to be done a few months ago and he hasn't responded to my last few emails so I said to hell with it. I figure I can always change later if I want. Also, FM does have an ebrake version. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1061140)
Is vented really needed on the rear? I'm going for light as possible for TT classing.
I wanted to at least do TSE's upcoming 2 piece rear rotor, but it was supposed to be done a few months ago and he hasn't responded to my last few emails so I said to hell with it. I figure I can always change later if I want. Also, FM does have an ebrake version. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1061140)
Is vented really needed on the rear? I'm going for light as possible for TT classing.
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Aluminum calipers and aluminum hats would help that a bit.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1061141)
Doesnt the 2 piece goodwin rear fit sport brakes? I'd rather have sport diameter rears with any size above stock 1.8 fronts anyways.
I'd rather chew through rear pads more quickly and have the weight loss.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 1061144)
I'd like to cut 200*f off the rear caliper temps. Define "needed".
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1061141)
Doesnt the 2 piece goodwin rear fit sport brakes? I'd rather have sport diameter rears with any size above stock 1.8 fronts anyways.
We have found the the best balance with 11" Wilwood fronts comes with standard 1.8 rears and one pad compound stagger. In the case of Carbotech, that's XP10 front, XP8 rear. For Hawks it's probably DTC60 front, DTC30 rear. I don't use Hawks so maybe someone can correct me on that. The 10.9" Sport / V4 rears only balance well with 11.75" fronts. |
I use DTC-60 all the way around because 30s were overheating severely in the rear.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 1061232)
I use DTC-60 all the way around because 30s were overheating severely in the rear.
I wonder if the DTC-60's also balance as well on an 11" front, NA8 rear set up. With Carbotech's on an 11"/NA8 set up, the same compound F/R has too much rear bias unless you're running 185 all seasons. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1061238)
Your 11.75/Sport rear brakes were awesome when I drove it last year at Hallett.
It's pretty easy to enter the big double-apex corners with extreme entry speeds and get the car from the entry paint to the exit paint on the "first" corner. There is so much time to make-up on brakes. |
I already talked to Sav, but I hope that you're happy that I'm $1520 into brakes for this winter and I don't even have pads or anything else I was planning.
GET HYPE |
Originally Posted by Dunning Kruger Affect
(Post 1061244)
I already talked to Sav, but I hope that you're happy that I'm $1520 into brakes for this winter and I don't even have pads or anything else I was planning.
GET HYPE |
1 Attachment(s)
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hnnng
looks baller. all the "stance" without any of the stretched tire, wrong offset, wrong camber phagggg0try what tires are those? |
5 Attachment(s)
More "stance" and hard-parking pics:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383174803 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383174803 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383174803 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383174803 Yes, there was some mud involved, lolol. my sister is also in the Stancenation: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383174803 |
lookin good trey. Any recent videos?
Edit: wait, when did sis get an NC? IIRC she had a MSM for years. |
o snap, whats done to hers?
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lol @ my car tucking rubber hard as fuck.
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1068547)
lookin good trey. Any recent videos?
Edit: wait, when did sis get an NC? IIRC she had a MSM for years.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1068548)
o snap, whats done to hers?
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 1068551)
No videos, I need a camera...but I need a lot of things. See the bicycle thread.
Ohlins suspension, wheels, tires, pads. She has the 17x9s and didn't roll the fenders out far enough so we're still working on it. The car is boring a stupid, it makes no sense to buy one unless you like shitty brakes and are rich enough to pay for the car, tires, and pads for the shitty brakes.. NA/NB is better in every practical way. Does she regret moving from the MSM to the NC? |
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1068555)
NA/NB for life. I keep forgetting how classy that RB type II front end CAN look when not in the hands of clubricer kiddo's that ruin the rest of the car. If only it weren't fiberglass.
Does she regret moving from the MSM to the NC? If she did, and I know she did that weekend, she'd never admit it. The MSM needed to go because they are too heavy and too "MSM-like" to have fun in. Her NC was basically grounded so I let her drive mine, and my car did 180 laps that weekend. I tried to motivate her to get a cheap NA and do the BGK and basically copy the 95R, which is pretty much what my car turned into. They have a chipped 135 and a Ridgeline, there is no need for an "old man daily driver NC" that they probably bought for $12k or more. Imagine if they had that $12k for an NA which they could still drive around with the top down a few days per week when the weather is nice? I drive all kinds of different cars all the time now that I coach for three groups and an NC is a great car, I'd say one of the top three best under six figures. However, nothing comes close to driving these ~150whp NA/NB Miatas. |
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