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Hybrid B6/ZM-DE engine build
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My 1.6 turbo build.
The parts list as follows: Wiseco +1mm pistons and custom rings Carrillo A-beam rods ACL race bearings Supertech +1mm intake/exhaust valves Factory AT cams Ported head Polished and balanced crank Cometic head gasket ARP studs top and bottom Corksport Cam Gears Bountry Oil Pump Gears Custom sc40 tubular exhaust manifold Mini Cooper JCW turbo (KO3) This build is intended to have a very modest output of 200-225hp. My parts selection is based on my day-to-day driving habits and commute, as well long-term durability and fuel consumption. I started by polishing the inside of the engine block to remove any leftover casting debris and to aid in oil drain back to the oil pan. After I polished the inside of the block I decided to smooth the outside of the block as well in order to give the paint a smooth appearance. (Yes this was a lot of work) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 The oil passages from the oil pump to the oil filter mounting boss were ported and all the turns were radiused and enlarged. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 I did various modifications to the oiling system based on my experience and research I have done over the last few years. First I removed the oil squirters and plugged them with some bolts I modified. I did this to limit the amount of oil that must be controlled by the oil control ring. The stock Mazda pistons do not have oil drain holes drilled behind the oil control ring. Mazda used channels alongside piston skirt to channel excess oil from the oil control ring. With the Wiseco pistons there are oil drain holes drilled in the ring lands behind the oil control ring, this is for oil drain purposes. However with the oil squirter in place the oil sprayed on the underside of the piston now has a path to the backside of the oil control ring and the ring must work harder to control the volume passing by. The oil squirters also increase the amount of windage within the crankcase, thus lowering engine efficiency. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 Removing the oil squirters should offset my other experiment. That is increasing the size of the oil restrictor to the cylinder head. I suspect a lack of oil flow/pressure is responsible for the infamous HLA tick. I drilled the restrictor from .089 to .095. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 The oil pump housing was also ported to improve flow and reduce cavitation. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 Rather than using the oil port on the exhaust side of the block as an oil feed to the turbo (which would lower the oil volume to the rear main bearing). I decided to drill the threaded boss under the intake manifold just above the stock oil pressure sending unit. A small drill bit was use to intersect the oil passage leading to the cylinder head restrictor. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 The exhaust side coolant supply port for the turbo was also drilled and taped for a NPT which is easier to find in a steel -6AN fitting. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 Once the block was prepped I had the cylinders bore and honed. I found during initial assembly that the Wiseco pistons sat -.020 in the cylinder. So I had the block decked to achieve a zero deck. After the block came back from machining it was thoroughly cleaned and painted. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 The bore clearance was set at .003, the mains at .0018 and rods at .0020 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 The pistons were installed and the piston to head clearance was checked, the clearance variation due to piston rock while cold was also factored into the clearance. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 Originally I had planned to use the B6 cylinder head. I ported a spare head and did some flow comparisons on my flowbench to test various port shapes (The B6 head has a lot of material in the head and can accept a substantially larger port). I decided to unshroud the valves and polish the combustion chambers as well as do a mild bowl blend around the valve seats but leave the ports stock in order to maximize port velocity. I did do substantial amount of work cleaning the upper portion of the cylinder head casting in order to remove casting debris and improve oil drain back to the pan, as well as drilling and tapping a fitting for the heater core on the back of the head just before the thermostat. The cams I choose are from an automatic B6, these cams have shorter duration and lift which I felt is well suited for my application. The exhaust manifold is a custom piece made from sc40 mild steel pipe. It was originally designed with a KKK k26 flange. I have since decided to use a k03 from a Mini Cooper S which provides a significant amount of boost by 1800rpm. This turbo is a twin scroll design which is easily adapted to the existing collector by welding a divider between the inner and outer cylinder pairs then twisting the divider in order to line up with the divider on the turbo. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326185036 |
Nice build!!
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While doing some research on various Mazda engines I came across a 1.6L ZM-DE engine in a 2000 Protg. The engine block looked remarkably close to a B6/BP so I did some disassembly to inspect. What I found is that the ZM-DE shares all the same dimensions with the B6 engine except it has an aluminum lower split-block design, and two extra oil drains on the exhaust side of the block/head assembly. Other than that the block, rotating assembly and accessories are identical.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Here are a couple photos of a B6 head gasket on a ZM-DE head. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Here are some photos of the ZM-DE cylinder head on a B6 block. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 I took various measurements of the head to compare to the stock B6 head. The intake ports on the ZM-DE head measure 2.10 X 1.115 and are significantly higher from the deck surface and have a straighter shot to the valve than the B6 head. A visual comparison between the ZM-DE intake ports and the BP-4W intake ports indicates that they are almost identical (the ZM-DE is perhaps a little better due to the valve angles). The exhaust ports measure 1.7 X 1.065 and are visibly larger than the B6 ports and have a better transition at the port divider. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Here is a photo of the B6 and ZM-DE exhaust manifold gaskets (the ZM-DE is on the bottom). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 The cam duration I found on the Protg forums indicate the ZM-DE has and intake duration of 226*@.003, and I measured the lobe lift at .325 using micrometers. The exhaust duration is 233* @.003 and lobe lift is .310 IVO = 1* BTDC IVC = 45* ABDC EVO = 52* BBDC EVC = 1* ATDC The lifters are also solid not hydraulic like the B6. The lobes are also much narrower than those found on the B6/BP engines. The lobes measure .400 wide at the nose of the cam lobe and tapers to .220 at the heel of the lobe. The cam spacing is 3.75 inches, which is much narrower than the B series engines. In order the get the valve angles tighter and the cams closer together the cam gears are smaller. Here is a comparison between the ZM-DE cam gear and the BP-4W. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 The lower drive gear on the crank must be paired with the upper. Here are some photos of the upper portion of the cylinder head. Here you can see how much tighter the valve angles are. Tighter valve angles result in shallower combustion chambers which are generally more knock resistant. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 I have yet to cc the combustion chambers. I will post the numbers when they become available. Here are the combustion chambers. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Because the combustion chambers are shallow the pistons have a significant dish to achieve the required compression ratio. I was originally fabricating my own 36-1 ignition trigger. This design used a wheel that brazes to the damper hub. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 I then came across this while removing the lower timing belt drive gear from the ZM-DE engine. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 I took and laid a 99 crank trigger wheel I had over the top of the ZM-DE trigger wheel. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 O.D. and the center bolt pattern are identical! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 I had also purchased a 99 BP-4W valve cover with the intention to cut and weld the front portion of the cover with the cam angle sensor to my original B6 valve cover. However the ZM-DE valve cover comes with a cam angle sensor built in. So that solves problem of generating a cam sync pulse for the Megasquirt. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 The valve cover breathers also look to be an improvement over the B6. The baffles at first glance appear to be higher flowing and have longer passages to help separate the oil from the blowby gases. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Out of curiosity I checked to see if the original CAS would fit. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Everything bolts up and seals properly, however the one problem I found with running the stock CAS is the drive lug does not fully engage with the back of the exhaust cam. There are a couple ways to solve this problem. 1) Lathe the backside of the CAS so it sits further in the head 2) Remove the drive lug from the CAS and weld/extend the ears 3) Mill the backside of the head so the CAS sits closer to the cam The first solution would be very simple, except if the CAS fails you would need to repair the original, or lathe the new one (kind of a pain). The second is a simple solution, however that T shaped drive lug is harder to get off than expected and damage could occur to the CAS. The third option is a good one, except mounting the head in mill could take some time. The intake manifold has some nice features. No water circulation passages Long tapered ports VTCS (most people remove) Equal length runners Dual plenums The most interesting feature is the dual plenums. The primary plenum is very small for throttle response. At the back of the primary plenum is a port that connects to a secondary plenum under the primary which I assume is being used as a Helmholtz resonation chamber. My plans are to remove the primary and secondary plenums and weld a stock B6 plenum to the ZM-DE runners. This may not be the best flowing system by it would be a simple way of getting all the vacuum ports and various idle components functioning. I also live in California and would like to keep the engine modifications as discrete as possible. The VTCS many people have stated only operates during warmup. The research I have done show that tumble valves increase the combustion rate and reduce the chances of detonation. Obviously these valves do not present a restriction for my power levels. If I was racing the engine I may remove them. I am contemplating a way of using them as an IRTB system, which would provide better throttle response, and would limit the amount of exhaust gas reversion into the intake ports at lower throttle inputs (if I ever run cams with a higher valve overlap). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Here is a photo of the stock B6 intake manifold with the ZM-DE intake gasket laid over the top. The port height indicated by the gasket is misleading because the intake mounting surface of the ZM-DE is machined at an angle. However the width of the ports are a correct representation of the differences in port size. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 The head bolts used by the ZM-DE are a little shorter than those found in the B6/BP engines. They also use a hex head socket. McMaster-Carr sells this same bolt (M10X1.50 X 100mm) in a 12.9 grade rated at 174,000psi, which is more than adequate. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 (Do not be misled by the thread length. The threads in the ZM-DE block are the same depth.) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 Because the ZM-DE shares all the same dimensions as the B6 (except the extra oil drains) the head gasket is backward compatible. The head gasket is a MLS style gasket with two layers. It is significantly thinner than the stock B6 composite gasket and I would not recommend its use on stock pistons due to the fact that they protrude .010 from the deck of the block and may contact the cylinder head if the ZM-DE head gasket is used. If aftermarket pistons are used this headgasket should work fine and I assume would be a cost effective alternative to the Cometic head gaskets. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326189600 |
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There is a Japanese spec engine referred to as the ZL-VE which is 1.5L with a bore of 78mm and stroke of 83.6mm. This engine is equipped with a cam phaser on the intake cam similar to the 01+ BP engines. This cylinder head would also be a bolt-on for the B6 Miata block.
My future plans may include using the ZL-VE head with a larger turbo such as the k04 found on the Pontiac Solstice GXP. The VVT head would retain the spool characteristics of the k03 but with less exhaust backpressure and more topend. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326190333 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326190333 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326190333 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326190333 Note the ZL-VE intake manifold also uses the same dual plenum intake manifold. From what I have found online the ZM-DE intake manifold is an upgrade for the ZL-VE. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326190333 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326190333 |
Gets even better, fantastic information on this thread!
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Good gravy, what awesome information! VVT 1.6 head?! Yes please.
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I really like all the detail work.
One question though. Why all this effort for 250hp? |
I'm not trying to give you a hard time but it makes me sad because it looks like you could build a thousand hp 4 cyl motor that would stay together.
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Amazing! Keep it go! ;)
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Very informative. What kind of benefits are you expecting from this VVT head? Spool gains? Top end?
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Nice work! Keep it going! Excellent find with the two engines
I have one question about this though:
Originally Posted by crowder92
(Post 817739)
I found during initial assembly that the Wiseco pistons sat -.020 in the cylinder. So I had the block decked to achieve a zero deck.
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Oh wow, I'm absolutely getting that crank trigger wheel and ditching the CAS. 36-1 and OEM!
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So the ZM-DE uses a 36-1 on the crank, great to know.
I like the angle of the intake ports on the that ZM head. |
Love the build, super thorough and detailed work.
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Fantastic thread to say the least. Have you flow tested the ZM head (since you mention having the equipment) vs the stock B6 head? I didn't see that mentioned anywhere if you have. And definitely keep this updated as to the use of the ZL VVT head if you get it installed.
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Originally Posted by Faeflora One question though. Why all this effort for 250hp? Its best not to judge an engine based only on its peak power output. Area under the curve is a better representation of the engines true output (most people who talk only about big numbers know nothing about cars). For example, say we have an engine where the turbo is sized too big and the boost comes in at 5000rpm and then it pulls hard to 7000rpm where it makes 250hp and then dies because the cylinder heads dont flow well (or not running enough boost). Thus producing a narrow useable powerband and a car that is hard to drive fast without a close ratio gearbox. Then consider an engine which is making good boost at 2000rpm and pulls hard to 7000rpm, this engine has lots of midrange torque and a wide useable powerband that pulls strong out of the turns and is more forgiving of driver error. That is what I am building. Ultimately I would like to get about 300hp out of the engine but my current turbo does not provide the CFM necessary (The Mini Cooper turbo has a 36mm inducer and 49mm exducer. I need a turbo that flows at least 25 lbs/min which = .1889 kg/sec to make 250hp. At a 2.2 pressure ratio (18psi) and a .1889kg/sec flowrate this turbo is operating at 60% efficiency. So 250hp is actually optimistic for this turbo. The K04 has a 42mm inducer and a 56mm exducer, with a flowrate of .19kg/sec @ 18psi which is right within the peak efficiency island.) This is the car I am finishing which is my street/track terror, the miata is my daily driver. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326537329 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326537329 2400lbs with a 525hp small block chevy and a g50 transaxle. Finished this a few years back for a customer. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326537329 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326537329 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1326537329 2200lbs with 700hp. Originally Posted by Fireindc Very informative. What kind of benefits are you expecting from this VVT head? Spool gains? Top end? IVO = -3* to +32* BBDC IVC = 53* to +18* ABDC Altering the IVC point changes where the engine makes torque. (a later point produces more topend, earlier produces more lowend). Closing the intake valve sooner will generate more lowend torque which will help spool the turbo. Then by rotating the cam gear to retard the cam, you close the intake valve later creating more topend. Originally Posted by bcrx7 Aluminum at 1000F expands about 0.012in and even more when forged. Does your head gasket allow enough expansion of the piston so it is not interfering with the head? The surface of a piston is protected by a thin boundary layer. When the shockwave produced by detonation occurs, the boundary layer is distorted/removed from the surface of the piston and the combustion gases are allowed to contact the surface of the piston, this is why you often see erosion around the ringlands of a piston that has be subjected to detonation. To answer your other question. The stock B6 pistons actually sit .010 out the top of the block. If I recall correctly the stock headgasket is .056 compressed, that leaves .046 of clearance between the piston and head. Most engine builders do not recommend running less than .035 of clearance. (unless you have small bores, tight bore clearances, and strong rods with lightweight pistons to minimize rod stretch). My engine has a zero deck meaning the piston is flush with the deck. My headgasket has a compressed thickness of .040, giving me a clearance of .040. However the pistons rock in the bore which effects the clearance. I measured .005-.008 change in piston to deck clearance while cold. Of course once the engine is at operation temperature the pistons will no longer rock in the bore. I think on my next build I will install Supertech pistons and run tighter clearances. Originally Posted by matthewdesigns Fantastic thread to say the least. Have you flow tested the ZM head (since you mention having the equipment) vs the stock B6 head? I didn't see that mentioned anywhere if you have. And definitely keep this updated as to the use of the ZL VVT head if you get it installed. Yes, I have a flowbench but it is a custom design, built for testing wet flow characteristics at very high vacuum levels around 136 inches of water (28 is what everyone else tests at). I can reconfigure my machine to test at lower pressures but there is no guarantee its numbers will be accurate with say a Superflow 600 due to calibration differences. What I can do are comparison tests to evaluate the flow differences between the B6, BP-4W and ZM-DE (all of which I have laying around). Im not sure when I will get around to doing the testing. Ive got a lot of projects that need attention. |
I admire your attention to detail and your inquisitive nature. Your creations look like a lot of fun.
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This brings up plenty of ideas!
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How long have you been doing this?
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Originally Posted by crowder92
(Post 820111)
Pistons dont operate at 1000*F. They would fall apart!
The surface of a piston is protected by a thin boundary layer. When the shockwave produced by detonation occurs, the boundary layer is distorted/removed from the surface of the piston and the combustion gases are allowed to contact the surface of the piston, this is why you often see erosion around the ringlands of a piston that has be subjected to detonation. To answer your other question. The stock B6 pistons actually sit .010 out the top of the block. If I recall correctly the stock headgasket is .056 compressed, that leaves .046 of clearance between the piston and head. Most engine builders do not recommend running less than .035 of clearance. (unless you have small bores, tight bore clearances, and strong rods with lightweight pistons to minimize rod stretch). My engine has a zero deck meaning the piston is flush with the deck. My headgasket has a compressed thickness of .040, giving me a clearance of .040. However the pistons rock in the bore which effects the clearance. I measured .005-.008 change in piston to deck clearance while cold. Of course once the engine is at operation temperature the pistons will no longer rock in the bore. I think on my next build I will install Supertech pistons and run tighter clearances. Looking good. Keep us posted! |
I love you. Ive been drooling over this head for a while but have not had the balls to try it, can't wait to see your results. Awesome work!
-Mike |
Wow. What is your day job.
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Wow... I like how you see things in perspective.
Does anyone has the part no. For that triggerwheel? |
Originally Posted by IHI
(Post 825232)
Wow... I like how you see things in perspective.
Does anyone has the part no. For that triggerwheel? I got one from a junk yard. Don't know if it fits 1.8 yet. |
I actually put a z5 bottom end with a b6 top end and threw it into my festiva, I took a look at the z5's head and threw it in the garbage... i thought all z series engines were the same i geuss not! i wondered why they looked so different at the junkyard.
great bulidthread |
Do you have any pictures of the zm factory exhaust manifold? is it cast or tubular?
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Thank you for clearing up my oil squirter debate. In for updates on boths cars.
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Sigh nithing to add but bonnnwr
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So, specifically, how has fuel consumption been a factor in parts selection/engine build specs and what do you expect in mpg? I've always wanted to build some extra power into my engine, but fuel economy is a big concern of mine. Thanks.
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Why is fuel economy an issue?
Dann |
I'm interested in modifications for my daily driver. I can't justify high output if I can't afford my commute to work, no matter how much fun I have on the way. And I'm frugal. :facepalm:
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Just wanted to confirm that the MLS head gasket from the zm-de motor will infact work on the B6 miata motor (in my configuration IE:stock valve-train and Weisco 8.5:1 pistons). Just bought one and worked perfect, pistons still don't reach the valves even with the different thickness.
-Mike |
This is awesome. For my SSM car, for phase 2, I've been thinking about doing a 1.6L supercharged build to drop 40 lbs of nose weight (and 40 lbs off my min weight for the class too!) This looks like some excellent stuff to use, and factory stuff too (crank trigger wheel, woot!) I'll be back with more questions later this year. :)
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I thought I would post an update to what I have been working on...
First of all, last spring I co-founded a Motorsports development course at CSU Fresno. We submitted a $60,000 funding request to develop the program (i'm expecting half the $), we then procured a 91' from a local Pick-A-Part and began disassembling. The engine was removed so we could begin doing development work on the engine dyno, and a custom rotisserie was constructed so that we could stitch weld the chassis and make various modifications to the suspension. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343284335 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343284335 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343284335 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343284335 We currently promoting the new program and looking for sponsors. Here we are setting up for a photo shoot. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343284335 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343284335 Hopefully, we will see some of you at the track next summer... |
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At home I have been working on various engine components as well as chassis and powertrain modifications for my own car (A few parts that are currently in development I hope to have on the market sometime next year).
Here is a shot of the turbo manifold I am finishing for the ZM-DE head. The runners have been finished and the collector is being welded inside and out before the very complicated collector divider is welded in place(twin scroll turbo). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 The stock oiling system on the BP/B6 is very good under most conditions. However under certain conditions the oil can migrate away from the oil pickup. Rather than installing an Accusump to assist oil flow/pressure, I thought I would first improve on the existing system. I welded some "baffles" to the sump of the oil pan. These baffles create a shelf between the factory pan baffle in the bottom of the oil pan and the surrounding structure. This is to reduce the tendency of the oil to leave the sump under heavy breaking. I left enough of a gap between the factory baffle and new sections that their should be little effect on oil return to the sump. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 I will find some before and after photos of the modifications if they are not clear. Now to fix the 1.8 diff housing. I decided to fix "fracture points" the 1.8 Miata housing rather than install my RX-7 housing, because I feel that the Miata diff housing has bigger/better cooling fins. Just my opinion. Before... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 After... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 I have a Moss Motors Miata PPF Stabilizer Kit on my DD. But I thought this was a better way to stiffen the PPF. This design essentially boxes in the full length of the PPF without adding much weight. First I took a spare PPF and cut the horizontal sections so that they follow the curved vertical section of the original. Carefully placing it close enough to not cause interference with any other components but still having enough distance between the faces for the wiring harness clips and to create a "box" structure. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 I then constructed a jig to maintain PPF bolt alignment. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 Then welded the two sections together. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1343289364 I hope to post some updates on the engine build as soon as possible. |
As usual, bloody nice work.
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Badass man. Seriously good work going on here.
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Makes me wanna go to csu Fresno when I transfer and join your program lol
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There is always a way to improve something if the time is taken to study it. Good job.
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I have a question about the similarities between a ZM and a B6. I have a 2000 Protege with the ZM and I'd like to swap a BP from my 92 Protege LX into the 2000. Do you know if the two motors are similar enough that I could easily swap the two? I know the ECU and wiring are going to be different, but I'm more concerned with actually fitting the motor in the car, mounts, etc. Are they similar enough that I could simply 'bolt in' the BP?
Thanks! |
Is the timing belt going to need to be a custom length?
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Beautiful PPF work.
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Love this project and the good cross platforming going on here. Just out a of curiosity, Did you happen to to try to see if the zm-de cams fit in the b6 head? If so that could be a cheap easy way to convert a b6 to a solid lifter setup.
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Anxiously awaiting an update to this thread. I know it's been over a year since the O.P. updated, or was active on this site, but this is a very well thought out and documented hybrid and it answered some the questions I have had regarding the z series engines. Does anyone know if the valve footprint of the ZM head is drastically different than the B6? Basically, will the valve reliefs in my forged B6 pistons work with a ZM head?
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Hi all,
Exellent thread! I had some left over question about Z engines and some were answered here. Great works on that B6 lump. Now I'm asking myself if the ZJ engine (aluminium block and oposed intake/exhaust head) can make a good source for a aluminium block. (with ZL VE head on it) Can't wait the next part of the story :bigtu: |
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Originally Posted by duffbuster243
(Post 976876)
Love this project and the good cross platforming going on here. Just out a of curiosity, Did you happen to to try to see if the zm-de cams fit in the b6 head? If so that could be a cheap easy way to convert a b6 to a solid lifter setup.
B6t cams in the zm. The cam journal spacing is correct and so is the cam diameter (checked with a micrometer). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 Intake cam wont fit without some trimming. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 Now while the cams do fit in the head there are some things that I think will prevent us from using b series cams in a z series head. On the exhaust cam there doesn't appear to be any oiling ports in the head at the camshaft journals. It looks to me like the cam has the oil passages drilled into it and oil is fed through the cam from a main port at the front journal to the other journals. For some reason this is only on the exhaust cam though. Exhaust cam oiling port https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 Feed port on exhaust cam https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 You can see the feed in the left journal and lack of ports on the right journal https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 Then on the intake side there's ports in both https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 And no holes in the cam either. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 Now the lifters. They are the same height and width(checked with micrometer). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 So they will fit in the lifter bores on a b series but the height inside where they touch the valve is different. The solid lifter is .368 thick and the hla is .721 thick. So I doubt we can use a zm lifter in a b series. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063
Originally Posted by Regis_92N
(Post 1084626)
Hi all,
Exellent thread! I had some left over question about Z engines and some were answered here. Great works on that B6 lump. Now I'm asking myself if the ZJ engine (aluminium block and oposed intake/exhaust head) can make a good source for a aluminium block. (with ZL VE head on it) Can't wait the next part of the story :bigtu: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388115063 |
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Hi, thanks for your input!
I made some ressearches about the aluminium block and sadly I think there is no cheap way to have an alloy block for our Head. I found this picture of a ZJ Head and I think the holding holes are not matching https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388131055 source: http://www.alles.or.jp/~mjc/magtoku4/magtk4.htm @B6Tfastiva: Do you know the ZM head volume? I need that to make some compression ratio calculation;) |
Haven't pulled the head off the block yet. Planning on ccing it when I pull it though.
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Great!
What do you think of the ZJ head bolt spacing? |
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The head bolts look like they're right but the oil passages look wrong. I've been searching for over a hour and this is all I've found.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388199513 From here: HALF WAYbf~I Rv[gGW The bell housing bolt pattern is different you can see a pic of it here: 不明 アクセラ デミオ ZY-VE/ZJ-VE 軽量フライホイール｜DEMIO/MAZDA｜Parts Reviews｜コギデミ｜Minkara - The Car & Automobile SNS (Blog - Parts - Maintenance - Mileage) I pulled these from a yahoo japan auction for a zj https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388199513 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388199513 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388199513 |
Here's some info I've found on solid lifter conversion in a b6 head.
Originally Posted by shorestiva
(Post 635899)
According to this you can run solid zetec lifters in a b6t. The only reason I haven't tried this yet is that the cams to go with them are $400. I'm thinking that with these lifters and zm cams it would be a budget way to convert to solid lifters. Im going to order one and see if it'll work.
Cam Tappet - Solid 1 pc - Zetec & Capri - ZXtuner.com - Sport Compact Performance |
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I gave up searching too soon. Found the head gasket for a 07+ zy-de
reinz part #61-54045-00 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388200644 |
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Hi,
Interesting things on tapets! I read somewhere that Kia HLA are a good alternative as they are lot lighter than miata HLAs The KIAs HLA are from KIAs' version of the BP engine? For the ZY block I am afraid there is only a "almost match" I put over some head gasket to compare, all of them have an advertised bore of 79.5 to 80mm B6 over a ZL gasket (reinz 61-52425-00 over 61-53450-00) All; belt side on the right https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388306114 B6 over a ZY gasket (reinz 61-52425-00 over 61-54045-00) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388306114 For the Lubrication of the camshaft I will check on a french sport engine to see how they manage that (TU5J4 engine) Hope there is way to just drill right into a head oil pipe |
Even if the head bolts did line up I'm wondering if it'd even be worth the effort. It'd be a lot of work to convert to timing chain and properly oil/seal it. I wonder if the internal are the same and it'd be possible to use b6 pistons and rods in it. It'd be easy for us fwd guys to just swap in the whole motor and trans. It uses a variant of the f series trans that we already have in some of our cars. It'd be a little harder for rwd unless there a trans out there with that bell housing pattern.
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Yeap you're right.
In my project I will swapp the not so good design from mazda B engine by a mix of part which allow me to obtain a nice R/L ratio. So we definitly see there is no easy/cheap way to have a hi tech light alloy block. |
Yup no easy way. I just checked to see if the nc miata had the correct pattern but its wrong.
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Oh, the alloy Z engines didn't even share duratec's/L engines bolt patern?
Secretly I was dreaming of cutting into the Z alloy block to keep the B6 starter arangement :rofl: Do you know if it's easy to freight an engine from Japan to France? (or anywhere) Company name? cost? Tax (my country is a leader in Tax creation...) I would like to rebore the ZL or the B block to 81mm (i saw a 81.5mm miata from okinawa) Can you tel me how much meat ther is between cylinders bore? |
I know over here its pretty easy if you find a importer. Thats a zl-ve misslabled as a zl-de.
TorontoJDM.com - Total Japanese Domestic Motor - JDM ZL-DE PROTEGE 1.5L DOHC ENGINE & AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION I have no idea about over there. Iirc the max overbore was 1.5mm and that's pushing it. You should double check that though. |
Thanks, I already talk to the seller => does not sell to France :cry:
When you see that lots of Japanese perf parts seller who start to sell piston for roadster starting at 81mm not sr the max is really +1.5 (so 79.5mm) overbore. :) SDS EM-4: Project Page |
4.5 overbore? geez
cc'd the combustion chambers 37cc. |
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