mghtymouse380

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Little bit of an update:
Ended up replacing the TPS. That didn't fix the problem but did get rid of the problem. Got really tired of messing with things and finally said I didn't know enough so I took it to a trusted mechanic that I have known for a while and the figured out that my Coolant Temp harness was messed up so the re pinned it and the car drove alot better. They also replaced the first O2 sensor because it was giving crazy readings on a multimeter.
When I got the car back it drove 100% better for a few days and then started giving the coolant problem again. So I am currently replacing the coolant temp sensor. It is a bitch just because of location. Hopefully that will be done today or tomorrow.

ON TO THE GOOD STUFF:
Finally got my wideband in and working. Ended up putting it on the second bung in my Jackson Racing Header. Routed it up and through the drain in the passenger floorboards.

PICS:



And a cockpit shot to see guages:


Finally the good news.... Picked up a 99 DIYPNP. Was told it was the prototype for the 99 plug and play and has all the same options.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Might want to put a grommet on those wires or they'll rub through the insulation and cause you issues further down the line.

Not sure on re-purposing the drain hole either, it's there for a reason.

Also not sure on running the wideband cable across the bottom of the gearbox, that's just asking for something to catch and rip it off.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

The drain is still in place and still working the way it should.It is routed pretty good and not touching anything. So I am not worried about that. Thanks for the input though

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Those wires are touching bodywork as they come through to inside the cabin, they will fret through at some point.

I really would put a grommet there minimum.

mghtymouse380

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Ill make sure to put some rubber so they dont rub through. Finally got the coolant sensor replaced and the car runs again. I am getting the shittiest gas milage ever though at 18mpg. I am about to put on the Megasquirt here soon so that can fix all the fuel that is being dumped.

QUESTION: I am about to finish my turbo parts list and need to know where the best place is to route the oil feed line. I know the drain into the pan but do most people use a oil sandwhich plate and tee for the feed line. I was told that a feed line shouldnt be longer then 2ft. Any help would be awesome. About a month out from install hopefully.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

So reviving this thread. I got alot done over the past few months and glad to say I have a running turbo miata. There are still a few bugs to work on but here are some pics.

Just to make sure everyone know mods are
BEGI Cast Mani
BEGI DP
SR20 Turbo
Flying Miata silicone IC piping
Cx Racing IC
HKS BOV

Here is the Dyno plot



Here are just a few photos. This car is by no means the prettiest thing around but it is fun to drive and I love it.

mghtymouse380

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And here is one with most of the crew

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

Now I am picking up a block that was taked out of a car that supposedly fried the piston rings or something to that nature. I will get more details soon. I am looking to build this motor on the side in order to take a bigger turbo to support close to 300 rwhp.

I am looking at trying to keep the build to about 2500. This will be my first build and need some help. I have been looking at rods and pistons but not sure what to go with as of yet because I need to do more research. The biggest thing I need to get is get the block break it down and get it checked to make sure that I can still use it. Picking up the block later this week for $50.

Any help or thoughts would be appericiated.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

Picked up the block today now have to make some decisions on what I want to do. Was told that the block had a fried piston ring. Looking to make it to about 300-350 to the wheels. Any suggestions would be appericiated.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

1) Build engine

2) EFR6258

3) ???

4) Profit.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

Im thinking of a GTX2867 to attach to my BEGI manifold and get Abe to make me a custom dp.

Not sure what rods and pistons to get for the build. Trying to keep it under 2500 for everything.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

I just grabbed Brandon's deal for $795 for rods + pistons + bearings. Add ARP head and main studs (got them from Doap also), BE street or street-strip pump, and a harmonic damper if you can afford it.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

It will be a bit because I have to save some money but I was looking at his deal not to long ago. Thanks for the help. This is my first motor build so I will have to do some research to do. I am excited now.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

Tore down the block today. Looks like the Crankshaft is gonna have to machined and gonna have to get oversized bearing. I am trying to get everything together in a spreadsheet to keep track of everything that I get. I would appericiate it if people would tell me if I am missing anything for my build.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to post up a few pics of the teardown.

mghtymouse380

iTrader: (1)

Just ordered some Tein Street Advance with standard spring rates to replace my ricelands. Also got some TRmotorsports C1's 15x8 with S-drives. Hopefully the coils will come in soon so I can get the new stuff on

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Sub'd

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Hey, that car!
I'll actually be moving to Norfolk in August.

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

Cool. Few of us Miata people here. Military?

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Cool thread! In for the motor build.

I have a question, did you use any kind of oil restrictor with the -4an feed line on the sr20 turbo?