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That means you need to have it running at least 2 months prior.
So schedule your dyno time, and set other milestones! I don't see you having any trouble getting this running by the end of march. Honestly, i think you could have it done by 3/10 and give you an extra time cushion. In my case, the tuner was 4-6 weeks out for appointments. I almost didn't make MATG because of it. Dan |
I've got pretty extensive experience in MS and HPtuners, so I'm hoping that Kpro isn't anything too much different. The question will remain on whether or not I can get a "track ready" tune complete in what I'm guessing will be ~3weeks of street driving. Putting some feelers out there to local shops to see what their backlogs look like just in case I hit a crunch.
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If you get it done by KMiata Day, mind if I catch a ride-along? I'm dying to see what a K swap can do on track.
I'll be running in beginner session for the weekend. |
^if not me, I'm aware of quite a few Kmiata's that'll be powering their way around the track that'll gladly give rides. I went on a handful of rides at Miata Meetup last year, then drove a couple at MATG. Assuming my car is together, I can toss you the keys and we can go for a short drive on the street if you'd like. Riding and driving are two different experiences. To really appreciate the swap, you need to just drive it.
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Finally had some decent "February garage work" weather yesterday. mid-40's outside meant an open garage door for the first time in a while. Here's how the morning started.. The rear main on the BP was starting to go as could be made evident by the coating of oil on the internal side of the bell housing.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...42d11b87a1.jpg Spent the first couple hours with a wire brush and degreaser. While not perfect, it's a hell of a lot better than before. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9023609d95.jpg The upper and lower boots on the shifter were shot, so I got the 5X Racing bronze shifter rebuild kit installed. All the parts got cleaned up as well. Ran the shifter lever across the wire wheel quite a while to get a nice finish on it as it is visible in my interior with the minimalist console that I run https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cfcb29a0bc.jpg Got the subframe mounted up. Had to take the die grinder to the second most rearward bolt hole on the passenger side mount to get it to fit. This is a common thing from what I gather on these subframes, so just make note of it. If you loosely bolt it up first, it'll be quite obvious if your subframe needs it or not. Also gave the engine bay a quick spray wax to rid it of the sawdust that was covering it. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2fcc72674b.jpg Ground the threaded bosses from the steering rack off and plugged/wrapped the holes. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb96834989.jpg Said goodbye to a few pounds of evap system that I will no longer use/need. Yay, free weight reduction. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a7d86633e4.jpg Taking note from Just_Dan's K24 swap thread, I shaved this corner of the engine bay down to avoid potential interference with the engine-to-trans adapter plate. Not sure if this is absolutely required or not, but I figured I'd save any potential future swearing by just taking care of it when its easy to access. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fbd0634649.jpg Took far longer to get to this point than I had hoped. I ran into a few issues on my adapter plate, mostly due to buying it secondhand. While the plate was new and never used, there was some threads on it that got messed up a bit and a couple missing bolts, which caused a lot of frustration initially when trying to fit it up. 3 trips to the hardware store later, I had appropriate taps and bought missing hardware. Chased the threads down and was back in business. Massive props to David at Kmiata for responding immediately to some Sunday afternoon questions so that I could keep progressing forward. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2357be7fac.jpg From there, gave the flywheel a quick spray down to make sure it was clean and the Supermiata clutch bolted right up without issue https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...857fb2d653.jpg Then finally, cut out the section of bell housing for starter clearance, cleaned up the inside of the bell housing one last time, and the engine and trans became one. Hoping to drop it in the car soon so that the tedious process of wiring can begin. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...029157b67f.jpg |
Not miata swap related, but the great white buffalo got new shoes last night. After keeping my eyes peeled for months, I found a set of 22" OEM rally wheels with TPMS sensors and new tires for sale locally on craigslist for basically the cost of just what the tires were worth. The catch? the wheels were pretty chipped, corroded, and downright ugly. The fix? Got them powder coated Cadillac Gray High Gloss Metallic from Prismatic Powders. Pops a bit a more than standard factory gloss black would while still giving a sporty look. Should be a sharp looking rig for towing the NB this year. Some custom Left Lane touches are also in the works when I have the free time.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a3c831fb2.jpg |
I'll start out this week with annoying news. Almost a year to the date of getting tagged in the truck in a parking lot, I was tagged again by a 16 y/o who wasn't paying attention. The Silverado clearly won the battle, but its definitely something I didn't need to deal with right now. Pushed my bumper into the quarter panel and the body gap between the fender and tailgate got pushed together so I can't open my tailgate until its repaired... Fun times, but at least he had insurance
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b309c7fa20.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de571a7e39.jpg Working on another set of Morimoto HB retrofits for a member on here. Should be shipping out this week. Love how a simple projector update looks so clean in the OEM housings https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d703944109.jpg Last but not least, finally got the engine dropped into the car this weekend. The custom water bypass neck I had made gets VERY close to the firewall when dropping the motor in (so close that I actually thought I'd have to remove it), but then I figured out a few tricks. The notch I trimmed out for adapter plate clearance (listed above in previous post) was helpful. I removed the bolts for the steering rack, which allowed it to wiggle around and more easily clear the pan on the driver side. I also kept all of the engine mounts loose on the block. Once all 3 of those items were complete, the whole thing dropped in without too much of a fuss. To think its almost been 2 years since buying the engine... nice to finally see it in! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eba6163713.jpg Once it's in, it's pretty wild how much space there is to work on things in the engine bay. The simplicity of it all is one of the main reasons I love this swap. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f691dbd2b3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de1e6055fc.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba5b085ae5.jpg I need to complete some starter/alternator wiring as well as do some plumbing before officially bolting the intake manifold on, but I was too impatient so I had to rest it in place and see what it would look like. Much excites https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...40fbd8c1d9.jpg Have a pile of parts coming in this week again. Wiring will be coming up soon. |
Decided to dig my teeth into the dash side of the electrical first. During the NA6 dash swap portion of this thread, I told myself that I'd sort through the harness at a later time as I didn't want to potentially have an electrical issue to diagnose right before MATG. Well, now is that later time. Here's approximately where I started.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a8cf78e9d1.jpg Quickly realized that there's a fair amount of weight in the dash that doesn't necessarily need to be there. Best way to get it trimmed off is to completely separate the dash bar from the outer dash skin. Trimming to be complete in a later post. The ground screws in the metal dash bar were also seized in place, so removing the bar made access to get those broke free a lot easier. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5cb9d70b2.jpg Had an issue pop up at MATG 2019 where all of the back lighting to my gauges and interior lights went out, which made for fun night driving. Found out the culprit is likely this ground wire that was pinched between the dash bar and the unibody of the car. This wire feeds directly into the dash light circuit, so I'll get this repaired and hope that was the reason. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e4cd5ed16.jpg I've deleted quite a few mechanical components in the car over the last few years, so the harness needed a nice pruning to simplify things down to what is actually used. This of course required de-looming the entire harness. Off the top of my head, the wiring that I removed from the harness was: Bose system wiring (I now just run a simplified headunit that sounds better anyways) Airbag system including passenger cutoff switch OEM OBD2 diagnostics port Power mirrors Rear defrost AC switch Cruise control Items Retained: Gauge Cluster Dimmer Radio Hazard Switch 12v Acc Plug Blower Motor Plugs Made for a pretty satisfying before and after https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9ea2b00187.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...67f1e05e19.jpg In addition to the harness pruning, I'm removing the HVAC ducting for the eyeball vents. I will be filling 3 of the 4 eyeball vents with gauges to monitor the engine, so given that, there's not a lot of reason to keep the ducting for them in place. I will still retain the defrost ducting. 99% of the time I only use the defrost/foot setting anyways, so there wont be much missed here for my purposes. After removing the eyeball vent ducting, here's what I've got piled up for the garbage bin. Not a lot in terms of mass (maybe 1-2 lbs at most), but it opened up a lot of room under the dash which is always nice! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dda8939f4b.jpg |
Jumping around a little bit of everywhere here, but still focusing on the interior bits. I picked up a lighter, more compact radio head unit. This particular model is a JVC KD-X370BTS. This was low hanging fruit in terms of easy weight to trim off the car for not a lot of money. This one has USB and Bluetooth input which will be nice for commuting and cruising around. The size/weight difference is substantial.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a716299608.jpg Also knew that I was going to want some sort of gauges to monitor engine health while on track. Everyone has opinions on what they like the best, but I leaned on some of my buddies who run in spec miata for the gauge they like/trust the most. Surprising to me, it was pretty unanimous that Longacre 60mm SMI gauges were the go-to. After receiving them and installing, I can see why. The analog gauge with programmable warning presets will make these super easy to see while on track. The fitment into the OEM eyeball vent locations is also nothing short of perfect. They quite literally press fit into the tombstone vent slots a perfect amount with no need for hardware to retain them in place. It was a bit of a toss-up on which gauges to run, but I ended up opting for Oil Pressure and Coolant Temp. I will have AFR in another location (will post that update later) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d8300c1a08.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...26b470bb9c.jpg |
Continuing with the dash. I have zero use for a true cigarette lighter anymore. Seeing as everything I charge utilizes a USB, I found this slick little piece on eBay for $15 shipped. Has a voltage readout to boot which is a nice little touch. Just took a little trimming to the dash plastic, then it squeezed right in.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf1c6c7e7f.jpg Dash is coming together from a gauge standpoint. Had an AEM wideband from the CTSV (RIP) that I kept to use for this project. Put that gauge in the left pod. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8a6129f97d.jpg To continue with the dropping weight theme, another piece of low hanging fruit was the Optima yellowtop battery in the car. No idea on what it actually weighs, but its safe to say its at least 20lbs (probably more). Reviewed cost effective options with a few friends and found this. 380CCA and 3.5lb total weight for $90 should do the trick just fine! A few miata peeps have been running it for a couple years now without issues. Will just need to make a bracket to hold it in place and put new wiring terminals on my charge harness to mate up to it. Its so light it nearly feels fake! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...567a91dcca.jpg Tucking all the headlight wiring into the fenders meant I had open 70mm holes in the firewall. Its surprisingly difficult to find plugs that work for this, but Amazon came to the rescue. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b601340a56.jpg Needed a place to get oil pressure signal from. Got the a Perrin sandwich plate to fix that. As an added bonus, it matches. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea764b7aa3.jpg |
Back from a much needed cruise vacation... came home to a new part so I was able to get the tombstone sorted out.
DDM works single DIN radio adapter fits and looks perfect for the job. Will need to relocate the power window switches to the blank portion of the panel under the headunit, but not sure I'll get to that before the car is running/driving. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de6d73bb34.jpg |
Weird whats the radio looking thing.....
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It's something that makes my life wonderful when I drive debatable streetcar build on the streets
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Next you are going to show me AC
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I still have an AC button.
...so when cars pass me on track, I'll press it just so I can blame the faux compressor on robbin' all my powerz. #bigbrainthinking |
Almost 60 degrees out yesterday made for a productive time.
Started out by painting the dash bar so its ready to go back into the dash. If you look closely, you'll notice some extra steps taken which the gram strategy gods would appreciate. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6aac5b7357.jpg A solid chunk of the wiring that I still had left to modify ran along the driver side rocker and under the package shelf. Now was as good of time as ever to remove the weight of the OEM seat belt retractors that I no longer use. Unfortunately, removing them should (in theory) require rollbar removal, unless you have a grinder handy that you aren't afraid to use. Would be awesome to cut out the towers entirely, but I'll leave that for some other day in the future so project creep doesn't bite me. For now, this will have to do with a modest few pounds pulled out between the belt assemblies and the cut out sheet metal. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ad5215d15.jpg As a bit of an open question to anyone. I'm doing a complete EVAP delete as all the sensors are "dead" without signals anyways once kswapped. The TPCV (tank pressure control valve) and FTP (fuel tank pressure) sensor are shown below left to right here. I'm under the assumption these are normally open valves? Any reason I can't just run a new vent line direct from the top fitting and remove the sensors completely? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ca8e0c64bc.jpg Current status of the interior harness. Have a few more segments of the harness to get through before I'm considering it completely thinned out. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9a0c7821fd.jpg the above seems like a complete chaotic mess, until you realize this is what I've pulled out of it already. There are a TON of unused wires on the common kswap... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2129422e09.jpg |
Why did you only cut part of the tower away? Time for some spot weld remover bits and some pry bars.
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I only cut part of it because (at least for the time being) I still use the trim pieces (suede wrapped) that fit over the towers for a nice fit/finish when the interior is all together. To completely cut these out the way that I'd want to, I'd likely need to remove the rollbar then figure out a way to make it look finished afterwards. This was a quick and easy way to pull a few pounds for not much effort without exposing a huge hole in my package shelf.
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well... I didn't die from the COVID-19 yet, so I've got that going for me. Mandated to work from home until further notice per my companies recommendations now however.
Received the Kmiata header and catback this week. Beautiful pieces. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f4376e52d3.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a031ff8c76.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28fed534b2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...59d206d85f.jpg |
Re: fuel tank venting
This section includes converting to referenced FPR, which you may be doing as well, or have done. But the rest is relevant to you question in post #496. DNM |
I'll chime in on Fuel Tank venting with my experience.
My NA Used to have a miserable gas smell in the summer. You could smell the car just walking out of the grocery store on a really hot day. I did everything, new valve(s), new charcoal canister. This ended up solving all of my issues: https://revlimiter.net/blog/2019/02/...-fumes-solved/ I replace the charcoal in the can once a year, I got a few pounds of aquarium charcoal for ~$20 on Amazon, can takes very little. I don't know if the NBs have a rollover valve like the NAs, but thats where I put the line for my vent canister. |
They should. The bad thing with deleting that check valve is that if you ever end up the wrong side up, fuel can start leaking out of the vent tube.
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Loosely hung the header in place to verify that clearance to the V8R subframe was sufficient by the bolting flange as I've heard of a few complaints from people where clearance was tight. It was not in my case, so it looks like I'm good to go. Small victory!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21a053a90f.jpg Then started the process of laying out all of the engine wiring... as not really any surprise to me, most of this is going to need to get shortened to satisfy my OCD... yay https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ce4ecb5718.jpg |
You might want to fab up a little heatshield to protect the oil filter that extends further than the OEM one did.
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Originally Posted by zellers88
(Post 1566308)
You might want to fab up a little heatshield to protect the oil filter that extends further than the OEM one did.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...92962615ea.jpg |
Apparently, when you ask enough times, good things happen. David came through and designed up a midpipe, so that all of us K24A2 guys can simply bolt up the K24A2 Kmiata race header directly to the Kmiata 3" catback that was released with the K24Z3 swap. The midpipe fills that gap that exists in that specific case. I already had the parts to fabricate a midpipe myself, but I'm inherently lazy and would rather spend a few extra bucks than mess around with trying to get a welder buddy (and all of his supplies) over to my house amongst all this COVID-19 nonesense.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a6b001071.jpg Another thing I finally got ordered was the Kpro4 ECU modifications from David. Just need to get the ECU sent in now, so hopefully that's a relatively quick turnaround. In exciting news, that marks the end of any major parts that need to be purchased for the kswap on the car. The only thing I have left to buy is some split wire loom to make the harnesses throughout the car look pretty and stay protected and then fluids to refill the car, which I'm not really counting against the swap in terms of costs. For those curious that may have missed the link previously, below is where I have my cost tracking on this swap stored for everyone's reference. The high level summary is that I could have easily done the swap for about $8900 if your goal was to have a running and driving K24A2 NB with the full Kmiata exhaust (I've fabricated nothing). I spent approximately $1100 in extras that weren't exactly needed but "nice to have's" (fancy looking fuel rails, engine bay dress-up items, additional interior gauges, shifter rebuild kit, etc). Adding those extra's in brought my total to a tickle over $10k all-in. As can be seen by the dates (and this build thread), I spread this cost out over the course of almost 2 years and managed to get some nice deals in the process. I wouldn't be surprised for a common build to run $1-2k more if your not penny pinching as much as me. Padlock's K24A2 Swap Costs Summary ....now to get my butt in the garage this weekend to hammer out some of this wiring |
Where did you order the Autocraft lithium battery from? I was looking online and couldn't find much on them or any forsale.
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Advance autoparts but they dont list them anymore. They are just a rebrand battery so if you search around they are easy to find
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Originally Posted by natedawg
(Post 1566690)
Where did you order the Autocraft lithium battery from? I was looking online and couldn't find much on them or any forsale.
Here's one I found: Auto Craft LFP-7 eBay Link The rebranded battery I believe is a "WPS Fire Power HJTX20HQ-FP". Example here: Linky Link |
Have been too busy with Left Lane things to focus on the Kmiata... but I suppose that's a good thing given the virus circumstances
First off, the fender vents that I sell are officially for retail through Flyin Miata. Check them out if you'd like a set of your own. https://www.flyinmiata.com/left-lane...der-vents.html Finished up a set of Honda Ridgeline retrofits last week. Really happy with how clean these turned out. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf7099d232.jpg Shortly after I received 5 sets of LED NB tail light cores to play with. After removing the ugly reflectors from the housings (which takes forever thanks to permaseal housings), I wanted to see how they would look on the car all chrome with tinted lenses. While not awful (and definitely an improvement from how they originally were), it still isn't my style. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b985759a66.jpg All 5 sets were claimed within a day, and not surprisingly all of the customers wanted them completely blacked out. Just got them out of paint yesterday. Was very happy with how they turned out. Gives the blacked out tail light look without sacrificing output as the lens is still clear. Honestly makes me want to redo the ones on my car to match. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...29faed23fc.jpg |
Getting the intake manifold on is a solid 3 weeks of progress right? :rofl:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f96339f122.jpg |
Full Kmiata exhaust photo dump incoming. I got the header, midpipe, and catback finally installed. Overall, very impressed with the fitment of everything. Some clearances get close, but nothing contacts so I should be in good shape. Don't mind the ghetto wiring holding up the muffler in these shots. I was waiting on parts to come in the mail that you will see later.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c68e56709c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de8405e674.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f7f1d753e.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5280dad632.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...80f4f7c90b.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3a3f2fca0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f9126c247.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0f05914d2d.jpg Finished it off with some poly exhaust hangers. Needed new ones anyway, so figured why not upgrade. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fd349a8209.jpg |
Next up was continuing to work on the engine wiring harness. Seeing as I will be running this through the bulkhead fitting, I need to prune as many items as I can to minimize the number of pins I need to use. I yanked the harness from the car again and started the tedious process of labeling to ensure I don't miss anything. I also will be deleting the main junction connection shown sticking up in the center of the harness so that the harness slims down a bit more for easier looming. For the most part you can sort through all the connections with the diagrams I have posted previously.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d2f4a9d3a6.jpg That said, I ran into a couple hiccups where I had wires that my previous diagrams didn't depict. Off to the mighty google, and I was led to these two helpful diagrams. The C101 connector is an important one to understand. Back-up light, back-up light switch, and oil pressure light can be pruned out in my specific case as either miata wiring or aftermarket sensors are going to be utilized. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b55c2f8343.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7eef528d46.jpg |
In my attempt to keep the car on a diet while still being loosely defined as a street car, I found some low hanging fruit that had a cost of $0 to remove. The sheet metal underneath the headlight which integrates into the frame horn was originally only really used as a ground location. I won't be using it as such any longer with the wire tuck, so away it goes. I was also able to take a few inches off the support bar as well. Two bolts per side should be plenty to hold it in place. In this specific case, the parts removed were maybe 1 pound or so. Nothing crazy, but 1 pound here and there adds up quickly.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...51be82b2ac.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9528b6ee17.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e20cde45d7.jpg Next up was getting the fuel rail feed line sorted. Picked up a Vibrant hard line to -6AN hose adapter and ran the line to the fuel rail. I was planning on running a straight fitting to the rail, but it interferes with my custom water neck, so I'm waiting on a 90 degree fitting now to finish it up. It should tuck in really nicely and look clean when done. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...15b878bd47.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5a74bd37cc.jpg The last brainstorm of the night was intake plumbing. Due to time constraints, I'll only have time to mess around with intakes that are easily made with standard pipe and couplers. A shorter intake behind the driver side headlight seems achievable, but so does a longer passenger side intake. I'm following up with some Kswap people to understand which is best. Long intake is good for mid range power, but it locates the filter closer to the header. How hot it would actually get on the passenger side location in my specific case is probably hard to figure out without testing considering my hood vent would be essentially right above it. Anyone have thoughts here? https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d463ad564.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f870b89ae6.jpg |
When I tried poly exhuast hangers, this happened the first track day:
https://live.staticflickr.com/1953/4...743ecac2_z.jpg I'm interested to see how yours hold up... |
This is amazing progress. I cant wait to see it fire up and run!
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Originally Posted by Roda
(Post 1572070)
When I tried poly exhuast hangers, this happened the first track day. I'm interested to see how yours hold up...
Originally Posted by mghtymouse380
(Post 1572144)
I cant wait to see it fire up and run!
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It's a shame I can't get a ridealong this year :cry:
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What size intake tube? Most of the k-powered cars I’ve played with did best with a 3.5” diameter intake, even at ~200whp.
Your intake manifold is designed for all the top-ends...so maybe a longer tube (and increased torque) would be the best balance? |
Originally Posted by Roda
(Post 1572070)
When I tried poly exhuast hangers, this happened the first track day:
https://live.staticflickr.com/1953/4...743ecac2_z.jpg I'm interested to see how yours hold up... |
Melty
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Originally Posted by Brap-Brap
(Post 1572293)
It's a shame I can't get a ridealong this year :cry:
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1572298)
What size intake tube? Most of the k-powered cars I’ve played with did best with a 3.5” diameter intake, even at ~200whp.
Your intake manifold is designed for all the top-ends...so maybe a longer tube (and increased torque) would be the best balance? |
I'll definitely be at MATG this year.
Maybe add a velocity stack into the intake as well? Just get the air nice and smooth into the intake? |
Most of my spending spree from last week showed up today. I have wanted an aftermarket wheel for some time now to improve driving feel, drop weight, and improve aesthetics. Given I have Sparco harnesses and seats, the only way to keep my OCD happy was to match with a Sparco wheel. I ended up selecting the Sparco R375. It's a 350mm wheel with the classic 3 spoke design and wrapped in suede. Ideally, I wanted a perforated leather wheel of the exact same size/design, but that doesn't exist so the suede will do. In addition, in the below photo you can see the Dorman 03336 cable stop kit (so I can shorten my OEM throttle cable), new DPDT switches for my power windows, K24 starter solenoid pigtail, and NRG shorty hub adapter.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08d98d5c08.jpg Spent the big boy dollars (a whole $5 more) and got the super swaggy CF ring on the NRG 2.5 quick release adapter. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28e805566b.jpg Upon working through interior wiring, I realized that the only circuit I hadn't touched was the power antenna circuit. Not to be left feeling alone, I decided to modify that as well. Picked up a TDR amplified shorty antenna to replace the power one. Saves a marginal amount of weight and let's me yank out the unneeded wiring as long as I have everything deloomed. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...329f310a7b.jpg This last piece is more of a cosmetic thing than anything, but snagged a Garagestar cowl cover to conceal some of what will be going on in that region of the engine bay. More to come on that soon. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...75b95d2d32.jpg |
Originally Posted by Brap-Brap
(Post 1572422)
I'll definitely be at MATG this year.
Maybe add a velocity stack into the intake as well? Just get the air nice and smooth into the intake? |
I'm sure most of you have already heard, but MATG is officially cancelled due to circumstances completely out of the organizers' control. I'm still planning on making it down there during the same timeframe whether there is an official event or not, so the build must go on! A miata friend of mine stopped over to lend a hand last night and discuss lodging options. I had a lot of "well this should only take 15-30 mins to do" type of projects, so the extra hand was very helpful.
The pedal assemblies were all surface rusted like all miata pedal assemblies get thanks to them being bare metal. I figured as long as the parts were out of the car, giving them a quick sand and spray of paint wouldn't hurt even though literally nobody will notice. That was the first thing accomplished. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1664465b1f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1841e2aace.jpg Second up was the intake. I received my Vibrant coupler yesterday. It was expensive as far as 90 degree 3" couplers go, but it was the only one I could find with long enough leg lengths (4") after the bend to make the 18" pipe and filter reach all the way across to the passenger headlight area where I wanted it. I had to trim down the one leg of the vibrant coupler that connects to the throttle body and slightly trim the radiator hose so that the two of them weren't interfering with one another. Unprofessional tip: a miter saw works fairly well for making clean cuts on multi-ply couplers. Just go really slow with it. Anyway, those tweaks got the intake setup looking like this for now. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1d73b2072e.jpg The hood is always something that is nice to get off the garage floor and back onto the car. Extra hands made this easy. One of the few items being added to the car for sheer convenience was a set of FM hood struts. I didn't want the ugly prop rod to work around anymore, so I figured now was as good of time as ever to remove it. Install was as straight forward as it gets and this mod may be one of my favorite sub-$100 mods I have done to this car (seriously). https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9a347a4c2c.jpg From there it was just a bunch of busy work not worthy of much for photos
I'm shooting to have the car on the ground ready to fire by the end of the month so that I have a month of "shakedown" prior to driving it a couple thousand miles round trip to the gap. |
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IIRC The column and pedal assembly has a ground on it? Something like that. I had a friend powdercoat his dash frame, column and pedal assembly and had a no-start issue for a while until he realized nothing was grounded.
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Originally Posted by zellers88
(Post 1573021)
Liking the new LLD fender venting solution
Originally Posted by Brap-Brap
(Post 1573036)
IIRC The column and pedal assembly has a ground on it? Something like that. I had a friend powdercoat his dash frame, column and pedal assembly and had a no-start issue for a while until he realized nothing was grounded.
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David includes an NPT hose barb fitting with the intake manifold for the IAC breather, but then it requires you to run a hose over to your intake to get filtered air. In the name of trying to keep the engine bay functional (yet clean) I started digging into alternate solutions to this random hose. It didn't take long before I found an NPT breather/muffler that is commonly used on compressed air systems. It has a 90 micron filter integrated to it, was cheap, and should do the job just fine.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2322f6c5fb.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1319d8f94d.jpg Miata friend came over and we started the super fun task of looming all of the OEM wiring back together. We mulled back and forth on if we wanted to integrate the Kmiata adapter harness into the main loom for a cleaner look, but settled on keeping it separate in order to make a clear distinction on what is OEM mazda wiring, Kmiata wiring, and Honda wiring in the event I run across a wiring hiccup. I got the remainder of the power antenna wiring removed and in process found out that I had missed the removal of the power lock control module plug, so I removed that as well prior to looming most of everything up. Ended the night with tossing the blower motor and heater core assy back in to verify wiring routing. Time runs away from you on tedious stuff like this. It took the two of us 6 hours to complete this just to give you an idea. :eek4: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...58b481fe54.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...769cb3f4ca.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f14e65d73.jpg Also ran to the parts store and grabbed the short piece of line needed to feed vacuum to the booster. Not a great way of cleanly routing this, which bothers me a bit, but it'll do for now. You can also see the OEM throttle cable shortened with the Dorman 03336 kit. I cut the cable on the pedal side for a cleaner look on the engine bay thanks to the tip of another MT member. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1773f1dd0c.jpg |
Finally got to permanently deleting the evap system. I chose the VTA method as shown in post #26 of this thread.
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...venting-70173/ And with that, the rear bulkhead region of the car is finally back together! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b7061c7392.jpg |
Matt I suggest using a catch-can filled with activated charcoal at the breather side of your vent system to really cut down on fumes and smells. My EVAP setup is very similar, and with only the stock charcoal can (even with fresh charcoal) it smelled, after adding the second there is zero fumes.
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Haven't updated the thread in a while so I figured I'm a little overdue...
Life took the reigns for a bit lately and the kswap was tossed on the back burner for some time. Decided in the midst of the COVID nonsense to do a full bathroom remodel. It initially started as a quick "hey, lets replace some fixtures and paint", but then before you know it I was down to the studs redoing plumbing and adding electrical. The results were worth it at least. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...807fd4ff03.jpg Then Left Lane projects took some priority... Developed my first set of NA 7" round retrofits. They utilize a MH1 projector and nice quality HID kit and harness with new housings. This specific set I added some passive color matched demon eyes. External appearances are always subjective, but the performance of them is not. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4bd146d4a.jpg Then I turned some MSM headlight trash into Left Lane treasure https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...901825a835.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...09257a3327.jpg Then I built a set of more budget friendly NB1 retrofits that mimic my own cars setup https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...262a149f6a.jpg Then I was working with a customer out in Poland and figured out that NB fender vents work on ND's quite well https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3eec08a076.jpg Or if you fancy NA vents on the ND, that works too.. although the body line curve doesn't match up quite as well in my opinion. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dfac925f96.jpg The woman needed a new SUV as her old one was on its last leg, so we snagged a 2015 Ford Explorer Sport with every option Ford had available at that time. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b12e30c4f2.jpg ....so in super random side news, that about covers my last couple months. Next post I'll try to keep a bit more on track with the thread |
In more kswap specific news... I've picked up a really nice digital scale to help expedite some of the process in my Left Lane shipments. As a secondary benefit, it is super nice to see what I've pulled off and added to the car in terms of weight. For all of you weight snobs like me. You'll like this post.
NB Power Antenna https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7def4d81ea.jpg NB OEM seat belt retractors https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63ceee8f09.jpg The random assorted bits I've cut off the bumper bar and underneath the headlights https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5c59567609.jpg The wiring I've painfully pulled out of the OEM looms (the container is already tared out of the measurement) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...beba2aac0e.jpg The OEM NB charcoal canister and assorted evap components https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc5c58100a.jpg The battery that my car came with (Optima Yellow Top) vs my new LFP-7 Lithium https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c313db636.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e84c04a6a6.jpg OEM NB Nardi wheel vs Sparco R373 w/ NRG QR https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6f07c4a974.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f7cbabd0b.jpg Just as a fun to know.. I tossed my Sparco Sprint with PCI bracket (and 2pc Sparco sub belts attached).. Knowing I have one of these on each side, it pains me to think that I have 60lbs in the car in just seats.. May reevaluate that in the future to get some lighter fiberglass seats, but budgets don't allow for that swap at the moment. I like how the sprints fit in the car and feel when sitting in them, but just wish they weren't as heavy as they are https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5e33403d45.jpg So with all of this assorted stuff being removed/replaced, I should be saving about 50 lbs over last years setup without even getting into what the Kswap parts, radio headunit replacement, front bumper bar replacement, and sound deadening removal is worth.. Goal is to get the car under 2200lbs with full tank, full interior, heater core w/ fan, radio, and full aero setup. It's going to be close. |
Also, just got back from the unofficial MATG.... Miata was up on jack stands, so the great white buffalo had its turn to make the trip again (this time without a trailer).
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc790aa37f.jpg Necessary dragon photo https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b45a48bfbb.jpg Seeing as Fontana was closed up, we took up a deal on an Airbnb. It was an awesome setup, but definitely not car friendly to get to. I had the angle readout on the truck get up to 17 degrees on the gravel driveway. There's not a chance that my miata would make it even half way up to this location, but the truck had zero problems. Buddy of mine that came with had a coil pack go out on his S2000 on the first day there, but we had it up and running the next day after some next day parts came into the Robbinsville parts store. Fairly uneventful week down there from that point on and great trip per usual. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9b145a600e.jpg Also had some super swaggy T-shirts made for the trip for me and a couple dozen others.... Anyone who knows a BP knows :rofl: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...04aa6a3e77.jpg |
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^it was hard finding some of that non-standard antiqued hardware!
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God dammit right after I get a set of GE Nighthawks you dabble in an NA projector conversion.
Hope you had a blast at MATG, I think I remember seeing the white chevy at the robbinsville shell. I was in a red NA with #23 on the side if you saw me. The new sparco evo QRT seats are very comfortable. I learned the hard way that the larger variants don't clear the B pillar so I can't get them back far enough for my seating position. |
Originally Posted by Brap-Brap
(Post 1578925)
God dammit right after I get a set of GE Nighthawks you dabble in an NA projector conversion.
Hope you had a blast at MATG, I think I remember seeing the white chevy at the robbinsville shell. I was in a red NA with #23 on the side if you saw me. The new sparco evo QRT seats are very comfortable. I learned the hard way that the larger variants don't clear the B pillar so I can't get them back far enough for my seating position. MATG was fun, but nothing can replace actually having your own miata there. It was nice checking out everyone else's cars regardless of what I was driving though. I had a sparco evo that I had bought prior to my sprints and ran into the same B pillar issue. Very few seats seem to fit without that problem until you get into seats well over twice the sprint price point, so for now the weight of the sprints will be my compromise in order to have nice fitting FIA approved fixed backs |
Another nearly 2 month bump... TLDR: life has been busy!
After knowing I was going to miss MATG with the car thanks to life and other awesome projects just getting in the way of things, the motivation to finish the car up for any 2020 season just hasn't been there. From September through October there realistically was only 3 events I'd be able to attend, so instead of quickly tossing my car together to hit maybe 2 of the events at best, I decided to just plan hammering it out over the coming fall months and take my time to get exactly what I want. The problem with this logic is, it gets pretty cold here as we get closer to winter and my garage wasn't insulated... Instead of working on the car when its warm, the only logical solution is to insulate the garage when its warm.. so the garage renovation project has began. Insulated all the walls with a R-15 faced insulation then tossed a vapor barrier over the top to be extra. You can see the pile of OSB on the floor which will cover everything (walls & ceiling) and then be painted. Its amazing how much of a temperature impact having just the walls insulated has been already! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8b2cc12b9d.jpg Current status is putting 2x4 cross members on the rafters as the builders decided that 32" on center was okay for my hip roof (instead of 16" on center like you can see on the roof). I may be hanging potentially heavy things from the ceiling at some point so I don't want to risk the OSB sagging between those large 32" gaps. These cross members will give me something to screw the OSB into between those gaps, prevent sagging, and keep the ceiling joints looking flush. They'll also give strong anchor points for anything potentially heavier than I'd want to screw into the OSB only. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...faaa240644.jpg Also, as car guys you can respect how a good toolbox is a game changer for a garage. My 52" Husky upper and lower box (shown above) has been awesome the 5 years I owned it, but its pretty obvious that its overflowing. With the pile of additional house project tools added to the collection, it only made things worse. The solution? I tore down the existing clunky cabinets in the corner of the garage and snagged a 72" Husky work bench fitted with a power strip and USB outlets. Finally a spot to organize things that have unfortunately been living on the floor the last couple months! It even matches my old box so the OCD is very pleased. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8e8f14fe48.jpg Left Lane Designs things have been going well. Its been very busy, and now I'm happy to say I've got a website live to check out. Having a FAQ page may very well change my life... :rofl: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82bd0701dc.jpg Now in kswap related news. This week a local kswap member to me decided to part ways with his 6spd / 4.1 combo to go down the proven BMW / Getrag path while in his quest for big power on a Merc Racing supercharger. His 4.1 didn't have much interest to me but the 6spd did, so this happened. The trans bell housing already being notched for starter clearance is a nice touch. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...791875c1fd.jpg Over the winter, I plan to swap out my 5spd for the 6spd so that I can take advantage of the Lord's gearing ratios (6spd / 4.3). Below is the gearing comparison based on an 8200 RPM rev limit. For AutoX, the 6spd swap may or may not prove beneficial (this will be dependent on course layout I'm sure). I shouldn't have any issues with smacking rev limiter while in 3rd gear on the 6spd for the faster pace layouts, and on slower pace layouts I may be able to get away with keeping it in 2nd. I expect the 6spd will be nice to have for HPDE events on larger tracks like Blackhawk Farms or Road America. Regardless of gearing, having the extra strength of the 6spd in my back pocket will be a great benefit if I ever choose to be stupid and add a little positive pressure into the intake manifold of the K once its operational. The ~300wtq danger zone of the 4th gear in the 6spd takes about 400whp for a Kseries to make, so if I stay comfortably under that I have some level of confidence that keeping the miata powertrain will manage the torque well. After co-driving a 240whp miata at the last event I attended, I'm quite certain that poo could come out with another 100hp more, but we'll see how I like n/a life first :likecat: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...474ddef6d2.png |
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