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Old 11-10-2014, 07:17 PM   #41
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Vlad,

Here are my settings. Getting better and better. I am also adding a little prime pulse to try to cause the first firing to be sooner. Takes so long to tune when you get one try per day (cold first start).

I think if had as much as you on the cold end, I'd flood for sure.

I included the ASE because I have been adding that and it helps. In other words, the crank pulses are not bad, but the follow-on is less than ideal.

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Old 11-10-2014, 08:12 PM   #42
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what size filler are you using? it looks like 1/16"? i would either step up to 3/32 or make a cover pass over the butt welds. they look to be cutting in judging by the picture. you have plenty of heat just need more filler.
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:58 PM   #43
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Pretty sure it was 1/16" rod. I, too, was wondering if they needed another pass. I'll talk with my son-in-law, who actually does the welding.
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Old 12-24-2014, 02:02 PM   #44
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Default Plans for 2015 Updates

Here is the list of items for the next steps:

Find latency on old and new coils
Coolant Reroute
Roll Cage
Chassis Braces (full set from MSM)
CAN -Serial interface for LC-2 input
Indicator lights for
1. Logging
2. AFR Warning: I think this is +5V
3. 235* Coolant
Switch for Logging
Switch and input jack for music
Key Switch for EBC
Switch for LC-2 power?
New boost Gauge
Label gauges
Foamectomy
Install Hella Horns
*edit* Install Tow Hooks
EBC
COP and harness simplification
Heat Shield?
Rebuild Exhaust Manifold
Return Style Fuel set-up and adj VE Table? OR 625cc EV-14 Inj
O2 Sensor Bung for Dyno
*edit* Properly mount ECU
Catch can? Unlikely
Dyno Tune

Question 1:
Referring to the following picture:

My question is, with the clearances I have (minimum 3" around hot stuff), and that I may (I hope) track the car, should I:
1) Ceramic Coat the downpipe
2) Add heat shield

In other words, should I bother with the heat shield given the clearances I have, or should I view it as cheap insurance. So far, on the street, the adhesive on the 3M +33 tape has not even softened (holding the lines together). What do you say Sixshooter?

Question 2:
I did get rise in CLT in summer with A/C on and boost. I never saw IAT go more than 11*F over ambient, though street only. Do you think the coolant re-route will fix this, or should I look into bypassing some air around the FMIC and more directly to the radiator?

Question 3:
I was going to go to return type fueling as I have the yellow tops. I wanted to increase the knowledge base with a before and after info on injector / fuel heat soak with both systems. However, it looks like the EV-14 injectors from the Mustang have pretty much obsoleted the Yellow Tops as the cheap, go-to injectors. Should I just skip the fuel modification and get the EV-14's?

DNM
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Moderate Power on 1999-heat-clearanc.jpg  

Last edited by DNMakinson; 12-24-2014 at 07:54 PM. Reason: The List Grows
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Old 12-24-2014, 02:15 PM   #45
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heat shield over ceramic coat for sure
both would be even better
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Old 12-24-2014, 03:39 PM   #46
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Did you get your CLTs down?
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Old 12-24-2014, 03:56 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mech5700 View Post
Did you get your CLTs down?
No. See question 2. Of course, they have been fine lately.
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Old 12-24-2014, 04:05 PM   #48
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I had high CLTs right after I put my turbo in. I put the under tray back on, installed a 180* tstat, sealed off the top of the rad to the support, and put on the aluminum plate from BEGi that goes around the hood latch area. I was getting even hotter than you, now I stay steady at 190*. Occasionally I'll see a higher temp right before the thermostat first opens, but drops within seconds when it does.
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Old 12-24-2014, 04:15 PM   #49
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Thanks, Andy. I had seen your thread in that. IIRC you do have a re-route. Is that correct?
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Old 12-24-2014, 04:25 PM   #50
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I do not.

I will see come summer if I need to or not. (Florida)
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Old 03-10-2015, 09:48 PM   #51
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No pics, but a brief update. Finally go around to changing out the bad WGA, though letting boost run up to 11 psi at redline has been fun. Now I'm at a steady 9 with the spring in the Kinugawa actuator.

Unfortunately, I damaged my coolant line (likely at the crimp end), so I'm down until I replace the line. I will likely go with some other arrangement as this had too tight a bend, hence the damage.

Pretty sure I through away the banjo tubes that came on the turbo, so using that is not an option.
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:23 PM   #52
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Here are a couple of shots. First is the addition of the Kinugawa WGA. It was supposed to be shipped with a 0.5 BAR actuator add-on to the 1.0 in the housing. Instead they shipped a separate 1.5 BAR. They took care of the problem right away.


Second shot is where I got a Banjo to barb from Flyin Miata and some brake line to add in a hard section. Worked well except I have to replace the cheap clamps with something better.


This has gotten a new item to my list: Install hard lines for coolant and oil feed. I will need to borrow or purchase a 37* flaring tool, and then weld in -6AN fittings to the mixing manifold and the return neck (well, what will be left of the return neck after we cut it down). I will have to decide how I want to run the coolants and then I'll know to get Banjo, straight adaptors, or one of each; with -6AN males for the CHRA.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:13 PM   #53
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I always run through a thought experiment when thinking of modifying my setup. I want to use the heater core outlet as the water source, maybe from the bypass line itself, then have the turbo return the coolant through a -AN bung welded to the mixing manifold.

I think full-race told me -8AN or -10 AN is the largest they've put on EFR's then space is quite limited.

If I recall the heater core hoses are -12AN equiv.

Sorry, just thinking/typing out loud when I hear about cleaning up plumbing
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:09 PM   #54
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No worries, P, help yourself.

So what I'm thinking on front outlet is to cut it off and weld a plate that is even with the plastic cover. To that, weld the -6AN bung for the feed. Alternatively, leave the outlet a little longer and mount the bung to the side for a straight in approach of the hard line.
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:24 AM   #55
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Default Cold Start Progress

Here is my first start this morning. Time between faint timelines is 1.25 seconds, so about 6 events. This is getting real close. Using batch inj during start, EAE is tamed, I'm pretty happy with cold start progress:


The hesitation at the transition was nearly imperceptible (in the RPM trace).
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Old 03-28-2015, 12:16 PM   #56
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very cool. I'm getting close too
after we figure this out we need to compare the settings side by side
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Old 03-28-2015, 12:52 PM   #57
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Indeed. The interesting thing is all of the interrelated settings and conditions that go into starts / restarts / and after-starts.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:22 PM   #58
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just for reference, mine:
cold - 7 events
hot - 4 events
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Old 03-28-2015, 06:24 PM   #59
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I hated what batch did to my hot starts so much that I went back to sequential. At 70* this evening, it was 4 max, and very smooth. In the AM we will see how it does at 30*. I'll just edit this post then.

*EDIT* next AM at 35*, cranked and stalled. Then cranked and ran with struggling. Unfortunately, we may br get any more cold weather this year.

I will post my settings next week, when I have a variety of starts on logs.

Last edited by DNMakinson; 03-30-2015 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:30 AM   #60
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Please keep us updated with your actual settings,
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