Ian's 99 build thread
#1242
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Recirculating ball type steering gear boxes are adjustable for lash as they loosen up with use. Makes a big difference for older vehicles, not sure how much lash yours has inthe new box. Best thing is to lay under it while someone bounces the steering wheel left to right and look for play in some component, from gearbox to pitman to inner and outer tie rods.
#1243
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--Ian
#1244
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More non-Miata content, the M3 is getting close to done. Plan is to be driving it at Thunderhill a week from today!
Car has rear windows and a roof now! Front glass goes in last.
Cage is done, interior is painted, driver's seat mounted. Still needs passenger seat:
More shots of cage:
Also needs the exhaust on, a tune, and then some final stuff (alignment, corner weighting, that kind of thing). Really looking forward to running it next week!
--Ian
Car has rear windows and a roof now! Front glass goes in last.
Cage is done, interior is painted, driver's seat mounted. Still needs passenger seat:
More shots of cage:
Also needs the exhaust on, a tune, and then some final stuff (alignment, corner weighting, that kind of thing). Really looking forward to running it next week!
--Ian
#1248
Took a closer look at the Miata, the failure is exactly the same as last time. Haven't figured out what to do yet. The outlet on the pump isn't a normal banjo fitting -- it has two O-rings that seal radially, rather than crush washers that seal axially, and it's a "banjo stud" rather than a bolt, which means if I try to use crush washers instead then there's a sneak path for fluid through the threads. I dunno if I can find an adapter to convert that to AN.
Perhaps a hydraulic shop can build me a hose that'll work on there (if it's a standard hydraulic fitting, rather than a custom Mazda thing), but will that be any stronger than the OEM hoses? I dunno.
One suggestion was to put in an NA power steering pump instead, apparently they use a more common flare fitting for the pressure outlet.
Perhaps a hydraulic shop can build me a hose that'll work on there (if it's a standard hydraulic fitting, rather than a custom Mazda thing), but will that be any stronger than the OEM hoses? I dunno.
One suggestion was to put in an NA power steering pump instead, apparently they use a more common flare fitting for the pressure outlet.
Hard to tell from the photo, but the threads and o-rings on the lower half look similar.... Could be worth trying to get hold of one to try....
Also, that M3 looks absolutely lovely. A friend here with an FM2 Miata has just bought one to try and make a "Team Schirmer" style car for bigger tracks and 'Ring trips. It will be an interesting comparison at Silverstone GP in a few weeks time to my Xida'd GTX2860 Miata. Nice wheel nuts by the way
#1249
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Ian, have you seen Piers14's picture of both the NA and NB fittings here? https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....&postcount=597
Hard to tell from the photo, but the threads and o-rings on the lower half look similar.... Could be worth trying to get hold of one to try....
Hard to tell from the photo, but the threads and o-rings on the lower half look similar.... Could be worth trying to get hold of one to try....
Also, that M3 looks absolutely lovely. A friend here with an FM2 Miata has just bought one to try and make a "Team Schirmer" style car for bigger tracks and 'Ring trips. It will be an interesting comparison at Silverstone GP in a few weeks time to my Xida'd GTX2860 Miata. Nice wheel nuts by the way
The M3 is done, I picked it up today! Hauling it up to Willows tomrorow, for the inaugural track day at Thunderhill on Friday. More pics, because why not.
I drove it all of 40 feet out onto the street to line it up with the trailer, then I winched it in. Winched because the clutch is brand new, somewhat tricky, I'm not used to it, and I didn't really want to try to deal with precisely positioning it in the trailer the first time I'd ever used it.
In the trailer. I need to install some new tiedown points further forward, this car is longer than a Miata.
Whee!
I can't wait to drive it!
--Ian
#1253
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Took the M3 to Thunderhill for a track day. About halfway up I started smelling smoke from the Paradise/Chico/Camp Fire. Then the sky got really weird:
It turns out that the wind at ground level was blowing towards the fire, but the wind at around 5000 feet was blowing in the opposite direction. So in Willows you couldn't smell it, but all the higher-altitude smoke made for very strange light, dark, reddish, but with a bright band around the horizon.
Pulled the BMW out at the track on Friday morning. The same odd sky:
Later on in the day the smoke was gone except for the eastern edge of the sky.
Interior painted, and with the seats:
The car is awesome. It's fast, it's fun, it's stiff, it's noisy, it's a race car. It's amazing how much better cars are on track when you decide you're never going to drive it on the street ever again. By the second or third session that I drove it, I'd already gone faster I'd ever done Thunderhill in my Miata. Although, I do have to qualify that by saying that I haven't really had a successful track day on the east course since rebuilding the motor. I'm taking the BMW to Laguna next week, I'll get a better lap time comparison to the Miata there.
Which takes me to the best part of the car -- it ran all day without complaint. The Miata hasn't done that in over a year.
--Ian
It turns out that the wind at ground level was blowing towards the fire, but the wind at around 5000 feet was blowing in the opposite direction. So in Willows you couldn't smell it, but all the higher-altitude smoke made for very strange light, dark, reddish, but with a bright band around the horizon.
Pulled the BMW out at the track on Friday morning. The same odd sky:
Later on in the day the smoke was gone except for the eastern edge of the sky.
Interior painted, and with the seats:
The car is awesome. It's fast, it's fun, it's stiff, it's noisy, it's a race car. It's amazing how much better cars are on track when you decide you're never going to drive it on the street ever again. By the second or third session that I drove it, I'd already gone faster I'd ever done Thunderhill in my Miata. Although, I do have to qualify that by saying that I haven't really had a successful track day on the east course since rebuilding the motor. I'm taking the BMW to Laguna next week, I'll get a better lap time comparison to the Miata there.
Which takes me to the best part of the car -- it ran all day without complaint. The Miata hasn't done that in over a year.
--Ian
#1254
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Ran out of SD card space midway through the day, so missed my best laps, but here are a couple with Albert in the passenger seat.
(there's a ton of time that I'm leaving on the table in 1, 5, and 8 here)
--Ian
(there's a ton of time that I'm leaving on the table in 1, 5, and 8 here)
--Ian
#1256
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Man, it's been 4 months since I posted anything here. I haven't done anything with the Miata in that time, other than move it on and off the lift to make room for other cars. It's still got the half tank of race gas in it from Laguna. I'm kinda burned out on it -- had a LOT of frustration with it last year, so I'm driving the M3 instead. The M3 is flawless -- it goes to track days, runs all day (turing faster lap times than I ever could with the Miata), and never breaks. 6 track days on it now (technically 8, but two were completely rained out and did only a couple laps) and the only thing that's even been close to a problem was investigating some brake fluid on the floor of the trailer that turned out to have just been overfilled.
Since I haven't posted anything in a while, here's some stuff on the Audi. Had it at the dealer for the prepaid 35K service (it's only got 20K on it, so this was time-based) and they wanted to replace the brakes. Seems a bit early, but it's a big heavy car with lots of power and I don't exactly drive it slowly. They wanted three grand. *cough*. I don't think so.
Checking online, the parts are about a grand. $600 for the pair of front rotors, $80 each for rear rotors, and about $150 per end for pads. OK, that's more like it. Rear pads came with sensors, and since the fronts haven't actually gone off yet, hopefully I can reuse them.
The rotors are... big. Really big. Here's the rear one, with a 11.75" TSE front rotor for comparison:
Here's a front one, with the same TSE rotor:
The TSE is a cute little baby rotor by comparison! Here's the Audi rotor on top of a 15x9 6UL:
Weird OEM aluminum hats:
Haven't put them on yet, maybe I'll do that this weekend.
--Ian
Since I haven't posted anything in a while, here's some stuff on the Audi. Had it at the dealer for the prepaid 35K service (it's only got 20K on it, so this was time-based) and they wanted to replace the brakes. Seems a bit early, but it's a big heavy car with lots of power and I don't exactly drive it slowly. They wanted three grand. *cough*. I don't think so.
Checking online, the parts are about a grand. $600 for the pair of front rotors, $80 each for rear rotors, and about $150 per end for pads. OK, that's more like it. Rear pads came with sensors, and since the fronts haven't actually gone off yet, hopefully I can reuse them.
The rotors are... big. Really big. Here's the rear one, with a 11.75" TSE front rotor for comparison:
Here's a front one, with the same TSE rotor:
The TSE is a cute little baby rotor by comparison! Here's the Audi rotor on top of a 15x9 6UL:
Weird OEM aluminum hats:
Haven't put them on yet, maybe I'll do that this weekend.
--Ian
#1258
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Still no Miata news, but I'm starting to think about actually doing stuff with it again because it's almost time to sign up for the final Miatas@MRLS (or whatever it's called now). I need to figure out why the brake booster isn't working properly and look into a long-term solution for the power steering failures.
In the meantime I'm still driving the M3 at the track, took it to Sears Point and finally managed to cord the first set of NT01s that I'd had on it. 9 track days on these!
Then I ran it on the dyno.
Made 325/250.
I find this chart kind of amusing, Miata, FD, and M3 all on the same chart.
--Ian
In the meantime I'm still driving the M3 at the track, took it to Sears Point and finally managed to cord the first set of NT01s that I'd had on it. 9 track days on these!
Then I ran it on the dyno.
Made 325/250.
I find this chart kind of amusing, Miata, FD, and M3 all on the same chart.
--Ian
#1259
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Hey, some Miata content for once.
Last week, I went over to the dyno with a friend of mine to help out with tuning his 2554 FM hardware/MS3 car. (it wound up making 240 rwhp, but Mustang dyno so hard to correlate to dynojet). In so doing, I was motivated to actually drive my Miata again, so I took it out for a spin. It's been sitting for 9 months with only a couple gallons of gas in it, so I drove it sedately to the race gas pump, filled it up, and then got into the boost on the way home and... it fell on its face. Buh, WTF? It was really odd, it was like it was hitting the Race Logic TC system at 180 kpa, just stopped making power as soon as the MAP got to that point, except it wasn't RPM based and the RLTC doesn't even have a MAP input. Took it home, bypassed the RLTC, and now all of a sudden it would barely idle.
Over the weekend I looked at it some more. I spent a while looking for loose connections in the injector wiring but nothing was conclusive. Finally it started running properly again, so I took it out for a drive with the TC bypassed and it did the same thing -- OK, that's ruled out.
So I pulled the plugs to look at them and it was suddenly obvious what was going on.
Last October I had run the car at Laguna at an event with the SoCal Alfa club, and the power steering pressure hose had failed again, blowing power steering fluid all over the engine bay. When I got it home I replaced the hose and then washed out the engine bay with a foamy engine brite that I'd used in the past with success. Apparently this time the spark plug boots didn't seal, and I didn't get it hot enough to boil off the water, so the plugs sat in an inch of water for 9 months with the results above. Frankly I'm amazed it ran at all.
So new plugs are on order.
--Ian
Last week, I went over to the dyno with a friend of mine to help out with tuning his 2554 FM hardware/MS3 car. (it wound up making 240 rwhp, but Mustang dyno so hard to correlate to dynojet). In so doing, I was motivated to actually drive my Miata again, so I took it out for a spin. It's been sitting for 9 months with only a couple gallons of gas in it, so I drove it sedately to the race gas pump, filled it up, and then got into the boost on the way home and... it fell on its face. Buh, WTF? It was really odd, it was like it was hitting the Race Logic TC system at 180 kpa, just stopped making power as soon as the MAP got to that point, except it wasn't RPM based and the RLTC doesn't even have a MAP input. Took it home, bypassed the RLTC, and now all of a sudden it would barely idle.
Over the weekend I looked at it some more. I spent a while looking for loose connections in the injector wiring but nothing was conclusive. Finally it started running properly again, so I took it out for a drive with the TC bypassed and it did the same thing -- OK, that's ruled out.
So I pulled the plugs to look at them and it was suddenly obvious what was going on.
Last October I had run the car at Laguna at an event with the SoCal Alfa club, and the power steering pressure hose had failed again, blowing power steering fluid all over the engine bay. When I got it home I replaced the hose and then washed out the engine bay with a foamy engine brite that I'd used in the past with success. Apparently this time the spark plug boots didn't seal, and I didn't get it hot enough to boil off the water, so the plugs sat in an inch of water for 9 months with the results above. Frankly I'm amazed it ran at all.
So new plugs are on order.
--Ian