If this doesnt make 400whp Im burning it
 

Last year I got my NB miata after being out of the Miata game for 6-7 years. I found a great deal on a high mile NB with a horrible missfire. The missfire was due to a spark plug ground electrode literally not existing. Took the NB to Miata's at the gap and realized very quickly that the engine was on its last legs, burned/leaked oil from every orfice in the engine and would shoot coolant out of the overflow tank when driven hard. Not sure what the previous owner did to it, but pretty sure the head gasket was very very tired. Found an amazing deal on a used FM2 turbo kit mostly intact and went ahead and boosted the tired old motor knowing that it probably wouldnt last long. It lasted about 3 months before #1 and #2 cylinders got really low compression readings ( 60, 90 psi respectively ). Engine is making a knocking sound under load that I am going to diagnose when it comes out next week.

Ended up looking like this when we were done, FMII kit, GT2560R, Vibrant IC, Custom IC pipes, Custom exhaust to borla XR1 muffler.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12daa36aca.jpg




https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8a92dd232f.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d477e1536c.jpg

Here is the current progress....ARP head/main studs, Manley rods, Wiseco 84.5mm 8.5:1 CR pistons, Boundary Stage 1 w/ 2 shims, fidanza Flywheel

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18eac8017a.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12c254911b.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e13cce474a.jpg

Here are some shots of the block, cometic hg, gates racing kevlar belt, stock BP4w head, copper nuts i love

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e82b0cca5c.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d836e28818.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c6e13dac0b.jpg
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So this is how the car has been sitting for the last couple of months waiting on its new heart transplant. Machine shop took a while and Ive been sourcing parts for it while its been down, shes gonna be happy very soon. Next week its going on the lift, subframe is being dropped and the new engine is going in. The manifold and FM turbine elbow are getting ceramic coated locally and I will update this thread when more parts arrive. Also sourced a Squaretop manifold for her as well.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dcf1dc6686.jpg

Progress update, the manifold and turbine elbow are 2000* ceramic coated from a local shop. Hopefully it will hold up, I have used Jethot in the past and it was great I just didnt feel like sending it out, and waiting forever to have them coat it. Made a custom oil drain line with -10 AN fittings. I think it looks pretty nice so far. I have a couple more pics to upload as well, engine is going in the car this week.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6574ea6dc1.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3c634c31d.jpg

Just waiting on my friends lift to free up ( LS7 FD needed some love ) and this engine is going in. Got a squaretop from Harry B , ceramic coated it cast iron grey. PS pump went on as well. Still waiting on the Radium fuel rail and thats the last piece to the puzzle. I was going to use the stock rail but I thought lets go overboard, this typically happens when I build something.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...93ba1e093d.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a74c4d99b.jpg

looks clean. why'd you cut the vc

Planning on adjustable cam gears in the near future, just didnt want to shell out the monies at the moment.

Thinking of doing the same; saves some hassle when adjusting cam timing so you can actually do that on a dyno. Also, you work fast! It should have been only a couple of days the squaretop arrived, right? :D

I believe it showed up last friday, had to drill out the stuck EGR bolt....that was a PITA lol. Thanks for the great deal on the manifold it sure cleaned up nice.

Everyone knows exposed cam gears frees up about 10-15 torque....

Everyone knows, its not how you stand by your car...its how you race your car..betta remember that.

everyone knows, it's how fabulous your hair looks floating in the air with the top down that matters

At this point in my life I would like to have more hair to float around:cry:

Everyone knows, it's how you stand next to your car, making them wonder how fabulous your hair looks floating in the air while you race it. Remember that.

I could look at engine build pics all day. Nice parts, its going to hum real good.

I agree, I love seeing engine builds. Some of the parts are so sexy its sad to see them go inside an engine only to get all dirty

More updates coming tomorrow, dropping the entire subframe going to pull the old engine and pressure wash the shit out of the subframe

I couldnt get my VC paint to wrinkle correctly... I think it was too cold. Ima have to sand it down and try again cause mine came out like ass

You want to lay it on really thick. Also come at it from every angle possible, don't just go back and forth in the same pattern. Wrinkle paint needs to be layed on heavy

I did three heavy coats of three.. well coats. I did different angles too. I will retry again now that its warm and not have to leave it in a shed with the heater running :o

Finally some more progress, my buddy was sick for over a week and it slowed the build since Im using his lift. Got the subframe dropped out of the car, cleaned it up and got rid of any rust on it. The old engine is very sad looking, the front seal was leaking like crazy, its done 220k and probably never had that seal changed so you cant really fault it. Forgot to disconnect the OEM clutch hose from the transmission and snapped it when dropping the subframe out. No worry, I ordered a braided stainless line that goes from the master to the slave since the OEM setup is pretty dumb anyways. Pics...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d738e69e4c.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7aa32d2ac4.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f00a72d185.jpg

New engine is ready to drop into the car. I need to find a 1/8" NPT 90* fitting for my prosport oil sending unit. I have the Trackspeed adapter and the sending unit will hit the block when I use the sideport that was previously used for the oil feed. This block is an older 94 and so it has the oil feed on the drivers side. I pulled the head off the old engine and the head gasket had a split between 1 and 2. Thats where my compression was going. The pistons all have a tiny amount of either FOD or slight detonation at the edges. Im leaning toward light detonation, before the turbo I was running a bunch of timing advance I think 16BTDC and still using 87 octane. When I went turbo the plugs always looked perfect with no salt and pepper.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e87fc1f6ac.jpg
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Get that thing installed - the burritos are not going to throw themselves.

hahaha, so true Rich.

More progress. Wiring harness is now in, AC Compressor is back in the car. As anyone with a miata with PS and AC knows space over on that side of the engine is at a premium. I wanted to just get rid of the AC but my buddy convinced me to keep it, I guess it is nice to have at times its just a bitch to fit all the turbo items in with it in place. Still need to do a couple more things wire in gauges/ fuel pump install / bleed the clutch but the car should run by the end of the week. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d47043b3bf.jpg

Engine runs, no leaks, pulls 22/in vacuum after a little piston ring seating just free revving the engine. Have not driven it yet that comes tonight after I get off of work. Got too late last night finishing up the gauge wiring and cleaning up loose ends, etc.

Dont mind the oil pressure sender there near the firewall, that has been tucked away. Ran the sensor off the drivers side oil gallery in the head. Figured it would show lower pressure up there and wanted to make sure the engine had oil pressure before we started it. Cranked it 2x for 20 seconds with the coils and fuel inj relay unplugged, got oil pressure pretty quickly. When running Im seeing a max of 70psi idle is about 25-30psi warm. Boundary Stage 1 w/ 2 shims. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b844d04e2.jpg
Powerstop rotors and pads, Stoptech SS Braided lines
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...58c4319539.jpg

I have been able to put 100 miles on the engine now, runs great. One big issue however is a small oil leak has developed. It seems to be leaking from the oil pump from either the allen head bolt or behind that. When I installed the pump I put the O-ring in as well as RTV around the portion of the pump that has the channel for the RTV. The O-ring did seem slightly small as it didnt fit into its bore as tight as I would like. I really dont want to pull the engine so Im really hoping its the allen head bolt thats leaking. I can see the bolt and the threads look wet and oil is pooling around that area. I read where someone else had an issue with a Boundary Pump with the allen bolt....I would rather it be that since its pretty easy to get to. The engine makes good oil pressure , I would think that if the Oring wasnt installed or was leaking that the engine wouldnt make sufficient oil pressure.

The engine now has 250 miles on it, still breaking it in with Rotella Dino oil. Gonna change the oil at 500 miles and send it. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39bdc25a39.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fd5d9cd198.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...333e0890bf.jpg

Sick! This gets me amped to drive mine again. Oil leak still an issue? I'm about to put my oil pump on now and need to order an o-ring.

Thanks man, I did fix the leak it was the Allen head plug on the pump. Apparently boundary used an incorrect size and they don't use any sealant, and it wasn't on there very tight. I took the correct tapered plug out of my own pump and used liquid Teflon and viola, no more leak.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cfb02e4566.jpg
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Some updates on the car....

It now has 225/45/15 Hancook RS4 on all 4 corners. Got it aligned with specs from Supermiata for the auto-x/street. I work at Mini Cooper so I have access to our alignment rack which is awesome. I installed an oil catch can on the passenger side, and left the drivers side open with a breather filter. The can is getting fuel vapors and a slight amount of oil after 500 miles of hard driving so its doing its job. Ive also been doing a lot of Logging on the Hydra so try to fine tune the spark and fuel tables. Car is currently running 13psi and spins the RS4's in second gear even when its 90* outside so shes healthy.

The exhaust we had made was slightly boomy/drone prone. We did the math and welded in a heimholtz and the drone is literally gone. AMAZING

looks loud.

It was super loud before the heimholtz. Now its much more civil. Its not quiet but it sounds good to my ears. The muffler is off my friends old NA miata drag car, he had it laying around for 10+ years so the price was right. Its a Borla XR1 and shes as straight thru as it gets.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...67e636afe3.jpg
Figured I would update this thread since it's been a while. Finished the build last June and took it to the gap last year. I have beaten the piss out of it and it loves it. Probably have 4500 miles on this build at this point. Running 18psi on 93 octane with the gr2560 is just fun. The car is very quick but it's not uncontrollable, in my opinion it's the perfect amount of power for a Miata. Going for more starts to break things and the chassis starts to show it's weaknesses. I have not had a chance to Dyno it but it's in the 280-300 range. My previous Miata made 296whp on a mustang Dyno and this car feels very similar but with much better spool.

Here is a acceleration video I took the other day 30-110 mph. 60-100 in 5.5 sec. You can see it spin 3rd slightly and just rip from there.

Figured I would update my thread my car has seen a lot of mods in the last year. Off the top of my head here is everthing that has changed. Running a GTX2860R Gen2 now, Garrett Intercooler, FM sway bars, Repainted my valve cover for shits and giggles, Grams 750cc injectors replaced my old ass RC550's. Pretty sure there a bunch of little things I did but cant remember them all lol.

I was running a 2560 previously @18psi and I can say that the 2860 Gen2 spools almost identically to it but can make +100 more hp. Thats pretty darn impressive. I still have a 2.5" downpipe from FM and their manifold and turbine outlet so there is some power to be unlocked if I felt like changing those things, but I think its pretty happy where its at right now. The car will spin 3rd even when its super hot outside and if its cool itll spin 4th and thats 225/45 VR1 so shes making some good power. The sway bars from FM worked out great, I set it to full stiff front and full soft rear and it gives the car a very neutral handing balance and flattens it out nicely. Still plugging away with my Hydra 2.5 and I actually love that ecu. I know it like the back of my hand now and Ive been self tuning it for years now and cant really fault it. Hope you all enjoy this little update.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1b864bd55a.jpg,
Most Recent VD run. 23psi, 17* of timing at the top end. Running 93 octane with octane booster that actually works and this is roughly 100 octane.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31dfa48b3d.jpg
Current look of the engine bay.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ee3861e4e.jpg
Arashi billet GTX gen 2 wheel that will replace my gen 1 GTX wheel and make my 2860 a gen 2 unit.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb8485012d.jpg
GTX2860R Gen2 with red anodized billet wheel.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63a5d4cb55.jpg
Garrett Intercooler, MST wheels, Maxxis VR1

Couple more pictures just because why not.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22f306d9f4.jpg
Got the little NB and the Kouki RSX Type-s. For a DD the RSX is pretty spot on.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa028296d2.jpg
S13 has a LS1 with a big BW turbo makes 650+, FD is a LS7 makes 490whp
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...099d6dbc95.jpg
Ready for the Gap, Coronavirus edition

Here is a video I made of the car for shits and giggles.

One more, this is just a 3rd-5th gear pull starting at like 40ish ending at like 120ish.

Just did a burble tune how to video. Its on my buddies S13 but its relevant to any ECU.

Any updates on the miata? I know I watched one of your videos where it lifted a head or something.

The fuccboi burble tune stuff isn't my jam, but I enjoyed your latest video none the less. They are definitely getting better.

Keep the content coming!

Pretty soon, I have my old bp4w head at the machine shop right now. It's getting a 5 angle, backcut on stock valves, supertech heavy double springs and new seals, guides. My head isn't lifting now at 20psi I actually put in the Supermiata HB head studs and torqued them to 90ftlb. The car is actually running great but if I try running higher boost it starts to push coolant again. Pretty sure the hg is hurt but at lower boost it seems to be ok. Glad you like the content man. We are starting to get the hang of editing and have a better camera other than just gopros. Keep watching brother we will have a lot of cool stuff.

Haha yea the burbles are not for everyone. But my buddy wanted it and it was a good idea for a video. Plus we are trying out new editing techniques and seeing what people like and don't like. My shitty pov video is actually the best performing video we have. It's not bad but I can do so much better lol

Little progress update. New head is back from the machine shop. This is a BP4W head, stock valves backcut with a 3 angle valve job, supertech heavy doubles ti retainers, bronze guides, OEM stem seals. Did not port the head I honestly think this casting is pretty good and I don't need porting to hit 400whp.

Set the lash myself since I had a bunch of shims at home and it saved me money from my machinist. Set them on the loose side since they will tighten up when I bolt the head to the block. I made 373whp previously with a hurt hg and bone stock bp5a head. I will be transferring the bp5a cam over to this head when I drop it on the engine. This time I'm looking to hit 400whp. Will have build videos coming out soon as well. Stay tuned!!! ✌️✌️

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ad04a766f7.jpg
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Got the head pulled off the car today. Started working on it at 8pm had the head off by 11pm or so. Took some pictures for you all to see. The cometic hg was not sealing well on the head side but was fine on the block side. Always surface you're head before it goes on the car, I thought I could get away with scotch brite, and it was fine until I cranked the boost up to 20+psi. Gonna clean up the carbon on the pistons tomorrow and will take pictures and video of how to clean carbon deposits off. The red color is from the octane booster I use which is mmt based and leaves that orange/red looking stuff. Will update the thread tomorrow after I get some more work done on it.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc028bc68c.jpg
Going to clean up the pistons tomorrow, the red color is from the mmt based octane booster I run. I'm not seeing any signs of detonation on the pistons which is nice to see.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ccf046e00.jpg
Little shot of the head that was on the car, going to swap over the bp5a cam on to the new head. Running a radium rail which I love.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...309f104331.jpg
This is the head side of the cometic hg. You can see where the gasket wasnt sealing, the block side of the gasket was fine
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c47e13c7ad.jpg
Pile of parts. New fresh head sitting waiting.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a159eb62f2.jpg
GTX2860r just waiting to make 400whp.

Your stuff looks nice.
That is one of the best "used" deck surface condition I've ever seen.
Just needs a tiny bit of clean up. Maybe with chemicals ONLY.

The picture of the port bugs me...
I WOULD NOT have left the port transition to the seat stock!
That 5 angle valve job is USELESS if they don't "blend" the port.
That's a flow killer in my book...
Making stuff like that into smooth "organic" transitions is what I call port "profiling"
It's 50% of the gains of a full port job...

Where did you source your braided turbo water lines? I still have my FM rubber lines which are on borrowed time.

I totally agree with you. However I ran out of money for the head build. Starting a new job and money is kinda at a premium right now, I think just the fact that Ill have a HG that is sealing correctly and a fresh head with a fresh valve job/ti retainers/supertech springs will help more than anything. I made 373whp on a stock bp4w head before so really all I want is 400whp. I made 373whp with a leaking HG so Im hoping just addressing that issue will net me another 27whp. I did get the deck cleaned perfectly with just some brake cleaner and a microfiber ill post up a picture so you can see.

I would have loved to have a port job on the head but i think it will make my goal without it, and if it doesnt then Ill cry and wish I had lol. Will be interesting to see the gains. I will do some VD pulls on my favorite stretch of road and see what it shows. VD put me at 371whp and on the dynojet I made 373whp so its pretty accurate. Will be interesting to see the results.

Pretty sure its a MAMBA turbo GT28 water line kit. I have had them for 2 years and they work great. Yea the rubber lines DO NOT last long it just gets too hot over there.

Got some some work done on the car today, spent about 3 hours getting the majority of the carbon off the pistons. Used WD40 and a scotchbrite pad and i would say they are 95% clean now. The valve reliefs were the hardest part to clean the carbon off, a lot of it was really baked on there. I guess a lot of it is due to how rich I run in boost. I have always thought my timing was aggressive but the pistons and bores show ZERO signs of detonation which either means I should run more timing or I am in the sweet spot and just leave it the way it is hah.

Cleaned the deck surface as well. Wish I would have taken pictures of it but I ported the ever living shit out of the FM turbine outlet. I basically matched it to the gasket and really opened up the turbine outlet side and tapered the wg side. There was a lot of work done to the outlet and I think it will flow better but virtual dyno will tell all. Tomorrow I will finish everything and start the car and hopefully everything runs great and there are no leaks etc. Im looking forward to seeing if there are any gains, I find it hard to believe there wont be but I dont want to count my eggs before they have hatched. The car was fast before so even if it doesnt pick up power at the very least the HG will be sealing correctly and I can turn up the boost higher than 22psi. Anything over 22psi previously would push coolant as the head side of the HG was not sealing as you can see on a previous post of mine. I plan to completely max out this turbo, maybe 25-26psi and whatever it will hold to redline. Hoping to see 400, thats been my goal now since spring. Will update tomorrow.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12f4f38d77.jpgGot the pistons as clean as I could with wd-40 and scotch brite pads. Got 95% of the carbon off them. Cleaned the deck surface with brake cleaner and a microfiber, it's as smooth as you can get for being 2+ years since the block was installed.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2102fa007a.jpg
Radium rail with grams 750cc EV14, flowforce injector kit. Too bad the flattop hides most of this when it's installed on the car.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f788826cc7.jpg
Got the head and lower manifold back on the car. Tomorrow will finish it up and set timing. Pretty much 4 hours of work left.

Looks great man! I'd love to see your timing map, have you posted it somewhere?

It's on a Hydra but I can post up a picture in here. I have one map I use for 93 octane and the other one I run most of the time it's 93+vp octanium which is roughly 100 octane and you can run a ton of boost with it and about 2* more advance based on my experience and looking at knock voltage. I'll post up a picture in a second taking a hot bath after working on the car lol. Bubble bath even.... I'm a sucker for a bubble bath. Lololol

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...abdf9e0f90.jpg
93 octane. I never run more than 18psi on this map. Boost cut is set to 20.5psi on this map so the higher boost cells I don't ever reach on straight pump.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cf30225d8a.jpg
This is my 100 octane map, I run allofit on this map is been up as high as 24psi but the head would not seal so mostly I would run 21-22psi. Hopefully now I can run more boost like 25psi and whatever the turbo will hold to redline.

Can't wait.

I have my GTX2860R gen2 laying around, but don't have time to fit it :/ Weather is also shit here in Germany, 5°c and rain, don't want to kill myself and the car

Got everything buttoned back up today, things took a lot longer than expected because after installing the BP5A intake cam I had to set the lash on 5 valves again only on the intake side. Luckily I had my spare head and a bunch of shims from another head that my buddy got from a junkyard that ended up being trash but he let me have all the shims from it. Intake lash is .008-.007" and exhaust lash is .011-.010". So that took a little while. While I was putting everything back together my OCD got the best of me and I refinished the throttle body and clearcoated it. I also got the Gates timing belt back to BLUE since 10k miles had made it look a little dirty. Cleaned all the timing belt covers with tire shine and set the timing. I installed a good used Crank pulley since my old one had 2 cracks in the elastomer and I didnt want it to slip.

Set the ARP head stud TQ to 90ftlb. I use the Supermiata HB studs and they are good for 90ftlb and since I plan on running ALLOFIT I need the extra torque. Used an OEM headgasket this time around instead of the Cometic that i was using previously. Also painted the cam gears metallic gold and I think it really adds something to the bay it looks great.

Didint get a chance to start it today, I want to drain the old oil and throw in some random 10w30 and let the car come up to temp and then drain it. Since I used Assembly lube on the cam gears and ARP moly on the studs the oil will get a little dirty so I figure it might be a good idea to run some cheap oil in it and drain it so that I can have a nice fresh mobil 1 oil change afterwards. I was gonna go to walmart and pick up some cheap oil but they close at 11pm right now because that RONA' life. So tomorrow I will start it and hopefully fingers crossed no leaks and everything runs as it should. Its always nerve wracking when you do so much work on the car and you just want it to be perfect when it starts lol. I think we can all relate to that.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a313382ca4.jpg
Went into obsessive cleaning mode. The timing belt had this black scuff marks from just being used for 3 years, little bit of simple green and a microfiber makes it look new again.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3f40dfe55.jpg
Everything is back together.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...265b61e989.jpg
Another shot of the bay. Painted the cam gears metallic gold high temp. Thought it went nicely with the red VC. I cleaned the throttle body and clear coated it. Cleaned all the timing covers and made them look new again. A clean engine bay makes me very happy.

I usually start a build on specific break in oil.
What makes that stuff special?
It's non-detergent and it has shitloads of ZDDP in it.
Cheap Walmart oil will work OK, Yours is not a "full" build this time...
Add ZDDP to whatever oil you use. You can buy this stuff in little bottles.
You DON"T have to use much, the 12 oz "Lunati engine break in additive" I use is good for 4 oil changes.
Use it in the Mobil1 as well. It will not hurt anything but a monolithic cat and it significantly reduces scuffing damage.
Piston skirts and camshaft lobes/shims is where it helps in a BP...

That's interesting, I need to look into the zddp additive. That's pretty cool. Thanks for the tip brother

Get that thing installed man! I would like to see others running the same turbo and pushing it. There are a couple guys on FB that run it. One guy has a NB with a bp4w and a built motor with 264 cams and e85. He hit 403whp/320ftlb with it at like 19psi. The cams really helped his car after 6k it keeps climbing until 7500rpm.

Got the car started today, no leaks and no issues whatsoever its runs like it always did, except the HG isnt leaking anymore. Coolant level is solid as a rock now. I kinda want to go out and do some VD runs but its like 27* here and the Maxxis VR1 tires turn into like plastic big wheel tires when its this cold. You might as well be ice skating, I dont think the car will even hook up in 5th. I tried 4th at part throttle and it just instantly got sideways lol. Im happy it runs. I will have Youtube videos out probably in a couple days on the head install and ill throw up links in here. If any of you havent checked out our Youtube channel look for the link in my sig. Thanks!

Tried to upload a video, didn't work great. Gonna upload to youtube and post a short running video in here. Will edit this post

Sounds nice man. And I really gotta sit down and work on my timing map. I'm using the default trubokitty basemap and from memory its noticeably more aggressive at high RPMS than yours, which scares me. I've yet to really crank the boost though.

Post up your map, I would be interested to see it.

I have some bad news regarding my build. When I was torqueing the head studs ( supermiata HB studs 90ft/lb ) I had the tq wrench "slip" and a loud crack noise. I was able to tq the stud in question to 90ft/lb after that and got the car together and it ran fine, figured everything was ok. Well after 20+ miles now I am having an issue at idle where after the car warms up it stars to smoke and run like a Subaru. Its definitely coolant bc I can smell it. It was the rear stud on the #4 cylinder on the passenger side. I have a feeling the head cracked and its leaking coolant into the cylinder once the car warms up. I pulled the VC and the stud in question and I didnt see any crack at the stud boss on the top of the head, but I think the issue lies beneath it. I have a feeling this head is gonna be trash, I dont know when Im gonna have time to pull it off and right now I cant afford to really do anything to it. I will still have head install videos and whatnot, but Im pretty bummed about it.

The car will run ok when you are driving but at idle it just POURS smoke once it warms up, coolant temps are slightly higher than normal and its losing coolant so I know something is fucked. Sigh, DO NOT torque your stuff to 90ft/lb no matter what Supermiata says on their site, I was following the correct sequence and its like the 10th time I have done studs on a miata so its not like I dont know what Im doing. Oh well, things happen. Thought I would update and let you all know that 2020 strikes again.