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Old 05-13-2024, 02:02 PM
  #21  
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Spent the weekend fiddling with the car. Got the camber in that recommended -3.2 range front, -2.8 rear. Toe is 0 in the front, 1/16 in the rear. Caster is yes, it has caster. Was really struggling with measuring it accurately, so will call it "4-5 degrees". Caster is pretty much maxed out so I can dial some out if needed. Rake ended up 0 on right side and 1/8" on left side, hovering in/around that 5-5.25" pinchweld height. The 7" front springs I think are hindering my ability to get into the 4's, but will run it as is and then if I need more low will swap out to 6" front springs and rescale when I put in the 1.8. Plenty of adjustment on the rear I can get it into the 4's for pinchweld height.



Fiddled for hours but got it dialed in enough to see how I like this. 2,341 lbs with driver and full tank of fuel.


Plenty of clearance for the brake ducts. Same clearance on other side.

Needs a tune and a bath.


Next step: Load base tune that is properly configured, set base timing, make sure it starts and revs. Then register for an autocross next Sunday for shakedown, first track event available to me with my schedule is in June
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Old 05-13-2024, 02:31 PM
  #22  
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Solid progress man! Good luck at the autoX this weekend.

My car is the same way. Been needing a bath for a while now but every bit of free time has been spent wrenching on it instead lol.
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Old 05-19-2024, 12:14 PM
  #23  
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Well I was going to autocross.....

Upon bedding the brakes noticed weird brake feels after a few applications. Then pedal pressure went to hell. Came back from test drive and found fluid low in reservoir (brake light came on) and RR had fluid in the wheel.

Pulled it apart as I already gutted these for the ebrake delete. Need to pull the snap ring but can't determine where the fluid is coming from. Will pull the snap ring to ensure the o ring is in there. If so no idea why it's leaking. Is it possible to put the caliper piston seal upside down? Maybe this core isn't any good, but it didn't leak before I pulled it apart....


Overall a bit stumped. Will inspect further today but probably just order a new caliper if I can't find anything conclusive.

Car drove straight and steering effort was really light on the street. Tune is close, bit rich up top at wot but roughed in for certain. Seems to follow the road, not sure if I need to tighten up the steering resistance a bit in the rack, dial out some caster, or just drive it a bit more and see if it's the loose nut behind the wheel; probably the later.

And...that's the issue right there.

Last edited by niterydr; 05-19-2024 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 05-19-2024, 01:46 PM
  #24  
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Oof! Bummer about that o-ring, but better for it to happen now than while racing. And especially before the track next month.

Glad everything else seems to be working well. FWIW, I never felt the need to add steering resistance to the race after fully depowering mine. The car definitely takes a bit more effort to fight tramlining though because.. well, no power steering lol.
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Old 05-20-2024, 12:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Z_WAAAAAZ
Oof! Bummer about that o-ring, but better for it to happen now than while racing. And especially before the track next month.

Glad everything else seems to be working well. FWIW, I never felt the need to add steering resistance to the race after fully depowering mine. The car definitely takes a bit more effort to fight tramlining though because.. well, no power steering lol.
Yeah I wasn't expecting steering input to be so "free and light". I have to pay attention now on my shitty back roads. I still don't know how I munched the o-ring, but should have it back on the road this weekend.

Also got to diagnose a faulty coolant fan relay. Nothing like a 34 year old car.
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Old 05-20-2024, 01:09 PM
  #26  
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FYI, the first flap on the hood vents should be vertical to act as a gurney flap. It should help create a low pressure zone above the vents to improve flow through them
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Old 05-21-2024, 11:48 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kep
FYI, the first flap on the hood vents should be vertical to act as a gurney flap. It should help create a low pressure zone above the vents to improve flow through them
Good point, trying to figure out how best to deal with the 3/8" rule for class height for NASA. Think it is better to cut it down and have it at 3/8" high and a 90 degree or keep it at an angle?

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Old 05-21-2024, 01:45 PM
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I'd leave it angled if that's the case. You can always bend it more vertical later if rules or needs change.
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Old 05-21-2024, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I'd leave it angled if that's the case. You can always bend it more vertical later if rules or needs change.
Kind of my thought originally, but...now I'm curious if they are doing anything effective not being at a 90 degree to the hood surface.

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Old 05-30-2024, 10:00 AM
  #30  
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Got the brakes fixed and ready for autocross this weekend.


Brakes fixed and made it to the gas station while street tuning.

Cleaning up the paint.

Clean enough
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Old 06-12-2024, 01:52 PM
  #31  
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Autocross was a success. I didn't take any photos but had fun re-learning the car. No breaks or issues, other than cage fitment is still a Pita. Trying to get ahold of advanced autosport to see the dimensions of their nascar bars as I think that'll fix the egress issue.
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Old 06-12-2024, 05:26 PM
  #32  
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Glad to hear it was a successful weekend. Always nice when nothing breaks.

I'm in and out of my car constantly at autocross. I can imagine navigating around a cage would be a pain.
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Old Yesterday, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SimBa
Glad to hear it was a successful weekend. Always nice when nothing breaks.

I'm in and out of my car constantly at autocross. I can imagine navigating around a cage would be a pain.
Thanks! Yeah in and out of the cage was a chore and made the autocross experience less fun. Also gutted race car on street tires = excessive and poor PAX; but it was fun for shakedown testing and some seat time.
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