I went with silver personally but I bet the copper will look cool against your black engine bay.

 

That silver looks better than I thought it would

 

Make sure you post up how well that CX racing EWG works. Everything looks great John.
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I'll be sure to test just the wastegate before I set the EBC and see if she holds steady. You ever change to EWG?

 

Not yet, but I want to. That's why I'm really curious how that one works. If it works well you can't beat the price. What size did you get?
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That was my reasoning as well. Figured hell I've already got a cheap turbo might as well try out a cheap wastegate. I got the 38mm

 

My friend used one of the cheapo cx racing/ebay 46 mills on his 1j and could never get it to work properly.


The cheap wastegates dont have the same amount of stroke as a legitimate valve.... the piston only moved a tad.
He now has went with a precision unit and hasnt had issues....


For us, a 38mm gate isnt that expensive, so i would just buy real. (i picked up my 38mm ms-v for 250 shipped iirc)

im interested to see how it works on your setup though.

 

 

Looking good, now get it in.
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your gonna love those motor mounts

 

I still need to pick up a Kia waterneck and a few other small things before I drop it in.

I'm not too worried about the MMR mounts. My car isn't civil or comfortable by any means so alittle vibration won't hurt my feelings any.

I also might be picking up a Super 60 locally for $200 soon too

 

Omg spray that mani copper too! That would look sick! That mani was the most fun one i've built yet. Are you still going to brace it?

I'm glad turbo not hit block too =P

 

If I knew the paint wouldn't come off I would but I don't want to take the chance. Everything fits good just wish the wastegate pointed alitle more away from the turbo and towards the driver side a tad more but I can manage. Yea I keep forgetting about bracing it. I don't know what the hell to order to have everything I need. Might use some scrap metal and use an old bolt hole from the AC PS and attatch it to the bottom of the mani

 

Get a turnbuckle and bolt one end to the motor mount, the other to the turbine outlet flange. Crank the turnbuckle as hard as you can by hand. My local hardware store sells tons of different turnbuckle styles and sizes.

 

I'll check out a few places tomorrow and see if I can find something. I live in a small one redlight town so I'm few on choices of places to look

 

I'm going to brace my turbo while i've got the engine out as well so let me build the brace and figure out what length and everything and i'll just try and build one for you too. I'm thinking about just welding a washer or something onto each end of the threaded rod on the turnbuckle.

 

Hopefully I can figure something out tomorrow or monday. If not I'll let you know if I need something built. Thanks

 

Why would you want to turn the turnbuckle as hard as you can?
Get some proper fitting ends and a threaded center, then tighten it just enough to take out the slack.

Tightening it alot would load the stress on it and when it heats up it will crack from that stress you put on it before.

 

I think turning it as hard as you can BY HAND will get every last bit of slack out without putting the opposite stress on it and have it tight enough that you wont have to re-tighten it often.

 

Fixed


It's way more than a little vibration. I would never ever use them things.
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