Yep. I think hingston was just illustrating how important it is to not have stuff hanging below the frame rails. As I said, the only thing that's below frame rail level is the sump/ guard/front subframe. Richy, do you have a build thread? Anyone who puts a 2001 motor in a '96 either got lucky on ebay, or knows what they're doing! ;)

And the transmission crossmember.

Some, but I'm really awful at taking pictures, as in I don't. Your pictures are awful but at least they exist ;)

No eBay luck here ;) All work is done myself.

I'm 'Mr Slow' on Nutz if you're that interested :)

Not much to report, just some fractionally less blurry photos:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320350494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320350494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320350494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320350494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1320350494

I hate to see that you're doing a side exit. but everything else looks awesome. Do you know if the f20c conversion has been done in an NB? I was thinking about doing it in one of those.

Re. side exit, each to their own I suppose. I will probably continue to love it until I go deaf as a result of having a 3" exhaust exit located by my head.

Re. NB, I reckon it must have been done to quite a few. Here's one:

And here's the same car sounding pretty good on the track:

I love me some f20 swapped NB. Okay, so maybe I should clarify on what I was trying to post. It should sound nice. The piping and muffler you're going with looks top quality. I'm just curious on how that's going to be for highway driving and other dd'ing.

It'll probably be rather "involving" :P

I like the choice of words! Haha

ON your vid of the track run.. u hear the knocking?

The knocking noise that starts around 18 seconds in? According to another of his vids, that's his aftermarket differential.

Ordered a Dastek Unichip from tdi-plc.com. Will be getting it tuned on their hub dyno. I've liked the idea of hub dynos ever since a magazine recorded around a 15hp increase on a Ferrari 550 just by changing to new tyres using a conventional Dyno Dynamics. Presumably the pressures, ambient temps etc were the same. And no, the mag weren't sponsored by this tyre manufacturer :P

After many, many hours on s2ki.com, I've asked for the air:fuel to be set at 13:1, and the VTEC crossover to be set at 5000rpm. Of course, if they want to set the air:fuel to something either side of this I'm not going to say no, but 13:1 seems like a good starting point on this engine with intake/exhaust mods. Apparently the Dastek can do this. I won't be touching the timing.
It'll be full throttle tuned only, not least because the Honda ECU 'learns' and eventually (apparently over two or three weeks) writes over part-throttle piggyback maps.

Also, cage should be arriving this week.

Latest purchase = things which will either send me to sleep, or keep me awake at night:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1321381334

Like most things I read like this I would imagine it will keep you awake for days.lol

vtec crossover on my car is set at 5300. If you plan on putting the car on a dyno then set crossover at the point that gives you the smoothest transition.

I have the short gearing of this car to consider though Bill. Much lower than 5000rpm (and plenty have found the optimum crossover point to be lower than 5000) and I'll be snagging vtec at motorway speeds. I believe the latest Unichip has scope for setting the load at which vtec engages, so in theory I could have it set to engage at, say, 75% throttle between 4k and 5krpm, but somehow making it load dependent seems even less predictable than having it engage at a certain rpm point irrespective of load. I need to think about that more though.

Trust me, keep it simple, no need to over think it. The smoother your power curve, the more predictable and easier the car will be to drive. furthermore, getting on the big lobes while in cruising mode will be a huge waste of fuel. Need more power, then drop it down a gear, it's one of the nice things about a manual gearbox.

That's what I mean - I definitely >don't< want to be in vtec at motorway speeds in 6th gear. To avoid that, I'll either have to set vtec to engage at 5000rpm or above, or, if I set it lower, make it load dependent between, say, 4k and 5k. That way, if the vtec point was optimally set at 4300rpm for example, when I'm on the motorway at 75mph at 4800 (for eg) rpm at 50% throttle, I'll be on the low cam. That make sense?

makes sense, no need to make it load variable. Just downshift when you need the extra power. KISS is always best.

That's what I'm leaning towards. If circa 5000rpm turns out to be above the optimal engagement point, it'll just result in a bit of a vtec-kicked-in-yo feel at 5krpm on full throttle. No big deal, and certainly less of a dramatic kick than the standard 6200rpm engagement point. I think we're on different pages re. my reasons for wanting load dependent vtec engagement - it's not so that I don't have to change down a gear or two (or three) on the motorway, it's so that when I'm playing on back roads or at the track, and find myself for whatever reason down at 4krpm coming out of a corner at full throttle, vtec will kick in yo at the optimal point instead of a post-optimal motorway-friendly point.