Driving old/slow car fast is still more fun than not driving one at all! Looks like it was a fun time.

 

The engine is out of the NA, and back on the engine stand.







Now it's time to figure out where the oil leak was coming from...

 

Ha! Wasn't expecting that!!!

Keep us posted!

 

Yeah, had to go back a few posts and make sure I didn’t miss something haha.

For the engine to be all the way out of the car, I assume the leak must’ve been more than just a damp spot?

 

It started out as a seep, but the last time I took it to AutoX, there was a quarter sized spot on the ground after being parked for ~2hrs. My biggest fear was contact between the steering rack and oil pan rubbing a hole, but it looks like it's the oil pan seal.

 

So, backing up a little bit, here's what the rack/pan interface looks like in the car:



After pulling the engine, it was clear the steering rack was contacting the pan both on top and front surfaces.




The good news is it doesn't look like the pan has been compromised... just some 'self-clearancing' of the surface. I think the oil was coming from the pan to block seal (this area had already been wiped clean)...



When I pull the pan, I'll check the inside for any signs of wear-through but I think it's OK. Unfortunately, there's really no easy way to adjust the engine position with the KPower LS3 style mounts. I'm looking into the AWR mounts, which are supposed to raise the engine slightly compared to the KPower mounts... which may cause a hood clearance problem.

 

A secondary project while the engine out is to move the front sway bar, which was another clearance issue created by the K swap. The K crank bolt sits very close to the sway bar when everything is static, and makes contact dynamically.




The plan is to add AWR sway bar brackets, and in the process, move the bar forward ~ 10-15mm. Started today with drilling out the spot welds and removing the factory sway bar brackets.

 

Check the fit of both those brackets. One (only) of my pair was ~4mm too narrow, the replacement pair fine. Seems QC an optional extra at AWR.

Given the design, it is hard to check the fit before you remove the OE ones, I was suckered by the easy fit of the LHS, and spent far too long trying to get the other on. When the magnitude of the problem became evident the vendor (Mania) were quick to offer another set, but AFAIK AWR have never admitted the problem.

 

Thanks for the heads up... I'll definitely check them. I only ordered them because the holiday sale price was cheap enough to offset the fabrication time to build a set. If they're that fubar'd, I'll probably just return them and build a set myself.

 

Mine fit pretty easily and I'm happy with them. YMMV, good luck!

 

I've been sitting here trying to think of something encouraging to say or write, but I'm at a loss. I think the forthcoming K24Z mounts from AWR would allow fine-grained control over clearance/height, but that's not an option with your subframe (I think the engine side would be fine). Maybe you could ask AWR for a set that hasn't been welded together so that you can set the height yourself? Or maybe it's just best to grind out the weld in that area of the oil pan, bash in some clearance, and re-weld it.

Or just go to a dry sump.

To be honest, that level of interference may simply be from a little settling or stretching of the existing mounts. Changing to the AWRs may eliminate some of that sag. Alternately, I have seen KPower offer some washers that ensure that the engine mount through-bolt is at the top of the SBC sandwich plate - do you have those in there? (or are you 110% sure you're at the top of the slot on those mounts?) https://kpower.industries/products/k...9b4f8446&_ss=r

I think at one point they were giving them away if you cried hard enough in their email inboxes, but I trust them as far as I can throw them.

I feel pretty burnt out on this whole K-swap thing, in case you can't tell.

 

Thank you! I had not seen anything about these washers before, and they may solve the problem without spending $500 on the AWR mounts. I don't think there's enough clamping force with these mounts to prevent settling with time, so these may keep it in place. I still need to do a close examination of the current mounts poly inserts, but at first glance, mine seem to be in perfect condition unlike many others that have experienced failure.

If I were engineering this from scratch, I think I would use an engine mount that rests vertically on a pedestal. Installation/removal would be much easier, it could be shimmed for height, and slotted for fore/aft adjustment.

 

Why not just go with a shorter crank bolt?
As garbage of an engine builder they are, 4Piston does have a nice crank bolt.

 

Or both ...

 

4P is a bad engine builder now? When did that happen? I'm only aware of Mike from Stanceworks'es K blowing up.

 

https://www.k20a.org/threads/my-expe...engine.229599/

Plus multiple people on the FB group having issues with them, myself included. They don't make the power they claim and have the absolute worst customer service of any company I've ever dealt with.

 

This is the plan... I was originally going to take a bit off a stock bolt, but may end up ordering the 4Piston. Thanks for the info.

 

Yikes didn't know the 4P iceberg was that deep. Really glad I didn't end up buying their cams and Z3 ported head a few years back.

 

****, I just realized I have a stock bolt in my used bolt bin, a mill, and carbide end mills. And a lathe. Happy to mod this for you. How much do you want off the head?

 

I really appreciate it, but I'll probably end up with the 4P bolt. If I do go with another stock bolt, I have a lathe as well...