I like it it's fun, has been a great project. I think a lot of people like doing the big build, and then get bored with it. Also, there are several things that become a PITA if you want to run with some organizations (NASA requires fenders, and the fender mounts pretty much all suck, for example). Wheel fitment also sucks since you can't use wheels sized for a miata since the Exocet requires a less positive offset to fit the same width wheel.

Yeah the wheel thing has me in a bind. I was going to go with the 949 6UL's made just for the Exocet but they are sold out with no planned date for a new run. So I'm trying to figure out what to go with initially until the 6UL's are back in production. Any suggestions?

I'd like to go on the record to state how envious I am.
This would be an impossible project in Turkey unless I built the chassis from scratch.
Even then, I would have to find a donor car, and that's practically impossible.

I do have an important question to ask...
Did you keep the carpeting, specifically, the rear deck carpeting?

Please PM me if you have. I have a 99, and mine is worn through.

I'm not sure I still have the carpeting from the rear deck. I'll be sure to check later tonight. I tried to get rid of a lot of the stuff left over from my tear down and I ended up just throwing away a lot of the interior stuff. I may still have it though. I'll let you know.

I bought some cheap JNC 003s off ebay for $400 shipped, have to run a spacer in the front to clear calipers, and a spacer in the rear to clear my 275 Hoosiers from the frame. I have a set of 15mm spacers, could get away with smaller, probably 5-10mm. I am leaning towards getting either a set of Volk TE37V 15x9 -15, or a set of custom Bogart wheels. I also am running 15x7 +41 RPF1s w/ 205 Rivals currently for keeping it off the ground.

Checked on the rear deck carpet, sorry to say it is gone. I only have the trunk liner pieces left.

No worries, and thank you for taking the time to check.
I just wanted to try my luck.

Back at it over the holiday weekend. Finished grinding down the ports and also lapped the valves.

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Ground the flash out of the ports.

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Try not to laugh too hard at my porting job.

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Before and after of the valve lapping.

Lapping the valves was new for me. Like anything, experience makes you better. By the time I got to the last valve I felt like an expert.

The head and block ready for a ride to the engine shop. They got dropped off today.

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Mr. Commie-

You're in luck.

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Found the deck carpet. It's in damn near perfect shape. Just pay me what you think is fair. Is this really shipping to Turkey?

It's been a while but I finally assembled my cylinder head this weekend. Installed SuperTech dual springs with SuperMiata seals. I have a set of SuperTech seals if anybody wants them. I bought them before I read all of the cases of leaking ST seals. I plan on plugging the oil squirters this week then assembling the bottom end this weekend. I'm doing my best to scrounge up money for a torsen before I mate up the PPF with the chassis. Summer is here and my weekends are filling up quick.

Here's some shots of the assembled head:

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Shout out to my wife that didn't give me any shit for assembling this thing on the kitchen table instead of my filthy workbench.

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Progress!

It's been a rough couple of weeks getting any progress done on my engine rebuild due to some stupid mistakes that I've made. I'm a little embarrassed to share this story but it may brighten someone's day to read about my misery.

I got the new SuperTech dual valve springs installed with no problems and was feeling pretty good with myself so I dove right into putting the cams back in. Checked the service manual on the torque pattern and torque setting and started putting everything back together. Here's where my comedy of errors begin. The service manual changes to inch/lbs. for the cam bolts instead of foot/lbs. I know everyone must be saying are you stupid? Well, the answer is yes. Once I started to torque everything down I started to get worried about the massive amount of pressure I was exerting on my puny cam bolts. I then felt one start to give so I backed it out and found that I had stretched it. Instead of rechecking the service manual I decided it must be my torque wrench that is the problem. So, in my infinite wisdom I look around for a bolt to wrench on to see when my torque wrench would click to get a feel for how much torque I'm applying. The first thing I see is my new coilovers attached to my chassis for show at the moment. Perfect! I'll wrench on it to see if my torque wrench is working right.

Snap.
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So now I have broken cam bolts and a broken coilover. I now feel like a neanderthal roaming my garage in search of ever bigger bolts to break. I settled on my engine stand which finally withstood my insane 100 ft./lbs of torque. As I'm slowly coming out of my rage filled stupor I start to think a little clearer and go back to the service manual and see the error of my ways. I like to think I have a fair amount of common sense but I keep reminding myself otherwise. But, I got brand new shiny cam bolts out of the deal!
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Fast forward to this weekend and I was ready to work on the bottom end of my engine. Got the oil squirters plugged.
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I then moved on to putting the crank back in with new ACL bearings. I installed the bearings and set the crank in ever so gently. But the crank wouldn't turn freely at all. I knew right away something wasn't right. I put the old bearings in and everything was fine. So, I shoot off a text to SixShooter and start measuring things. Apparently, I ordered the wrong bearings because they are .010" thicker than the ones that came out. I checked the package and my suspicions are confirmed. +.25mm. bearings not the STD that I thought I ordered. So, now I'm waiting on new bearings to be delivered.

So, there you go. Everything has gone without a problem up till this point so I'm taking it in stride. I'm pretty frustrated though because I wanted to be so much further along by now. Once the engine is back together I think things will go much quicker.

There are many pitfalls on this path but you are wiser for having experienced this. One day you will be advising new guys in engine assembly and it will all come together because of this. I read what others have done wrong here all the time and it has saved me thousands.

Overdue update:

FINALLY got the engine together. The cheap adjustable timing gears are totally jacked up. The cam position triggers didn't come close to matching the OEM gears. I measured everything on a CMM at work and made the adjustments to make them work.

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This picture was taken without any timing done so I know the cams are in the wrong position. I just wanted to see what everything would look like assembled.

Also, the valve cover is getting powder coated but I'm waiting to send everything out at once, calipers, brackets, etc.

This weekend I tackled the differential and PPF. I picked up a Torsen locally so I needed to get it cleaned up and painted. Also replaced the bushings with some new poly bushings.

Bushing barbecue

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Painted diff

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Back together with the painted PPF

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The old, sad open diff in the background.

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Next weekend I'll be putting in the FM stage II clutch and flywheel and mating to the transmission. Things should pick up speed after that until I get to the wiring.

So pretty and clean.

Yeah, this build is taking way longer than expected because I'm sweating the details. Hopefully, it will be worth it in the end. I want it on the road as soon as possible but I also want something I can be proud of. I'll probably never get a chance to do something like this again so why not go all out. Well, I guess dropping an LS in the engine bay would be all out. Hmmm.

FYI, you may as well disconnect the rear factory subframe brace, you have to chop it down to make it work. I added a piece of 1/8" flat sock to the rear side of mine (or rather my buddy who can weld did). You can always upgrade the drivetrain later. I do wish I had taken the time to clean up my subframes better, but really the control arms are the only visible bits when the car is on the ground.

Wait, Megans for Exoset?

Yeah, not the best option out there but another local Exocet owner is running them and he's happy. Plus the price was right (they were open box and heavily discounted). I'm saving up for the Xida's with way softer springs though.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bashing them, just was surprised to see them. Figured anyone with $ to do Exoset would have money for something fancy. I bought a 94 miata last year with almost new Megan's on it and the car drove surprisingly well considering the rep. they have. It even was on track and did OK.

I can't really say this is a budget build considering the money I've sunk into it at this point but I'm pushing the limits of what I can spend vs. being homeless. I'm picking up stuff here and there. I can honestly say almost everything I've bought has been used either off of Craigslist or this forum. I've been pretty lucky on finding some really good deals as they show up.

As far as the Megan's go, I'm going to see how they perform once I get everything on the road. I hope they are better than their customer service. I've been waiting two months to get a replacement top hat stud that I broke in a moment of stupidity. Somehow they were back ordered for a month and a half and now I'm waiting for the Sales Manager to call me back to take my money. $8 for the stud and $10 shipping.

I didn't know the brace needed cut down. I just figured it bolted right up. Thanks for the heads up. Any pictures of your setup?

Clean build! The frame paint turned out incredibly well.

Are these keepers fully seated on the valve? https://i.imgur.com/mpu3JgT.jpg

Thanks! We took a chance on the color and we like it.

I thought the same thing on the keepers when I first started the assembly. I actually redid the first two because I wasn't sure it was right. The keepers have a ridge just below the top that engages the valve. It makes it appear that the keeper isn't fully seated but it's in there. Once I got going they all ended up looking like that.

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The ends also don't butt up against each other so there's gaps on the ends depending on how they slide into the groove.

Back at it this weekend.

I need to install the floor panels on the Exocet before I can drop it on the PPF. That took way longer than anticipated. 136 holes drilled. 68 Rivnuts installed. 68 button head screws installed. In 95° Florida heat, in my front lawn. I decided to wrap the panels in carbon fiber wrap. It matches the CoT wing which is real carbon fiber. We'll see how it holds up. I might go real carbon fiber later.

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Also worked on getting the front suspension together so I can drop the motor back in. That went pretty quick.

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I know about the drilled and slotted rotor issues. I picked these up before I heard about failures and cracking, etc. These are just for show around town. I've got solid rotors and hawk pads for any auto-x and racing stuff.

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Thanks to SixShooter for an awesome deal on those Konig Heliums.

They look a lot better than I remember, haha. I look forward to you having the money to put some really wide wheels and tires on there one day.

I'm saving up for some 15x10's with 245's. I've read that the 225's (what I've got) are faster on track but I like the look of the wider wheels and tires. I might have to settle for 15x9 though.

Helpful tip if you are ever doing rivnut installation:

I had the rivnuts and the installation tool stored inside the house where it's nice and cool. When I started installing the rivnuts they took quite a bit of force to get them to set completely. I took a break and went inside to cool off because it was 95° out. When I came back out the rivnuts had been left out in the sun and were too hot to handle with my bare hands. This was a fortunate accident. When I installed the hot rivnuts they went in like butter. Hardly any force to get them to set. So, rivnuts that are heated are waaaaaay easier to install than cold ones. Makes sense but I would have never thought to do it. Probably works with rivets too.

Started the Holiday weekend by assembling the rear end.

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Next was installing the FM Stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel.

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Now feeling super motivated, I mated the transmission and motor and decided to assemble the rollerskate Sunday night.

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Everything actually went together relatively smoothly. I didn't have to make any adjustments to the PPF mounts so I'm hoping I have the alignment right.

I'm pretty stoked to get this far. I'm waiting to get my bulkhead panels back from powdercoating. Once I get those I can put the frame onto the PPF.

The brakes, valve cover, water pump pulley and coolant lines are going to powdercoat this week. I'm going to be in China for a week starting on Friday so everything is on hold for a while.

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I can't get your link to open. Any more info on your setup?

That is starting to look suspiciously like an automobile.

Oh, got it. Looks good. Thanks!

Is this a frame crack or someone getting crazy with a Saws-all??

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That's a weird camera angle. It's actually the bottom side of a weld seam. It looks open but it's completely sealed and welded. The picture above this one back in the thread shows the weld a little better but further away.

Ok, Good deal. You have a very nice build coming along. Kudos! Can't wait to see the finished car and your driving impressions.

Haha, four wheels and an engine is about all they have in common at the moment.

I've reached a pretty big milestone in the Exocet build this weekend. Finally got the frame mated to the chassis. Really starting to look like a car now.

Strapped up
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Having the frame this high up in the air turned the pucker factor up to 10.
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Now for some glamour shots:

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There is plenty yet to do but I'm happy to have gotten this far without too much trouble. I've got Sparco Sprints on order and they should arrive next week. Brakes are powder coated and need installed. Of course, the electrical, fuel and brake lines are going to be fun. I'm thinking about a month out and I'll be ready to turn the key.

In the process of depowering my steering rack.

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Also, got my pedals, steering column and NRG quick release installed.

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I need to drill and tap my brakes for the fender brackets. That has delayed their installation.

One of my two Sparco Sprints showed up yesterday. Now I can sit in the car and make Vroom Vroom sounds.

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The other seat is due this week. Looks like I need to step up my seat mount search. Not sure about the adjustable sliders yet. Anybody have suggestions or wisdom to share?

so fucking awesome!
are you going to be doing AutoX at GCAC? would love to see this baby in action!

Thanks, man!
GCAC is pretty far south but I'd sure love to take a road trip. I don't have a trailer so I'll be driving to whatever events I run in. I'm seriously trying my best to get everything up and running by the end of October but it might be more like November before I actually get on the road. After that I'm going to try to hit as many AutoX events as possible. I'm sure I'll make it down there eventually.

uhaul rents a trailer for 60$ a day!

i guess central florida is more like it?
do you guys ahve any local events in tampa?
i'm from miami and the dirve to GCAC sucks

There's a group near Tampa called FAST that does events at Brooksville Airport and the Greyhound Track in Tampa. I figured I would start there and then expand to some new places as I get more experience. I can't wait to get driving.

awesome, yea...this thing deserves to be driven!

super jealous...i need an exocet but may end up with a ghetto-kart tho :/

Florida Corvette Racing Club has events in Brooksville that are more fun than the FAST events and you get more runs. Nice people, too.

dang it, brooksville is a bit of a drive from miami :/

ive heard of FAST, i have a friend who may belong to that club

FAST is slow.

I think we just need to get Garmin out to Homestead Miami Speedway for a track day.

Or Sebring. Or Palm Beach.

Yes, yes and yes.