The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

The MAZZDER AMM X FIIVVEE – pronounced just like Jeremy Clarkson.

It. Is. Time. I have been waiting for this moment for a while, researching, studying, asking questions, etc. I would like to reintroduce myself on the forum to everyone before I get started. My name is Yazen(pronounced Yahh zen) and I purchased a 1990 all white Miata, pictured below, to be able to turbo a car and to eventually get to auto crossing it.

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I live in Mount Pleasant South Carolina and have performance goals of getting close to 200 hp on my stock 1.6L and when that blows up a rebuilt 1.8 that I will eventually start on.  So I purchased my Miata in January 2014 from an older gentleman who used it as a DD, but seems like had not taken as much care of it as the previous owner who had maintenance history since 1992!



By word of mouth this is apparently one of the first Miatas in Charleston…I started by performing some basic maintenance and clean up to it. Cleaned up the trunk of this black moldiness, it needs more cleaning…changed the oil, changed the rear diff fluid, etc. Then began to drive it around. I first bought a new trunk lid for it as I did not like the one with the black rack on it. It just didn’t look very good. I also painted the brake calipers black and changed the rotors on the rear.


I then purchased some crappy firestone tires just to drive it as a DD to and from work to enjoy it during the warmer months. Then I began to research on the forum and here is my game plan:
200 hp turbocharged 1.6L engine
1. Flyin Miata Stage 1 clutch – purchased just not installed – got some nice racing transmission fluid from Sav – thank you there! – bought a 1.8L flywheel for like $40 SWEETNESS!
2. SS brake lines and Motul RBF600 Dot4 brake fluid – installed just need to add the new brake fluid
3. Advanti Storm S1s with 22550R15 or some similar tire size
4. Some GOOD coilovers – preferably a tokico combo as 18psi said those were one of the best he has used a while back – input is highly suggested and encouraged!
5. Going with the MK turbo as a tester car for the 1.6 for shuiend! Go MK TRUBO KITTTY POWAH!
6. Mustang EV14s – purchased just not installed
7. Totally forgot…MSPNP2 – installed and still tuning – running a bit rich on the higher engine loads
8. Procured a Torsen off a 94 I believe, don’t quote me, for less than $300 buckaroos!! –installing that now with my father! Lots of pics and learnings there! For example don’t hammer the lock nut on the threads to remove a stuck axle…I’ll elaborate more later!
9. Paint that sucker all BLACK – DONE pictures to follow
10. Some blow off valve preferably not an eBay one as I understand safety relief devices from work and this is kind of crucial in the mechanical integrity of the compressor wheel.
11. MTX L – Installed and pictures to follow.
12. Trackspeed engineering Coil on plugs – need to upgrade sparks when I turbo.
13. Ebay intercooler probably for now – even know I know the importance of a solid heat exchanger… I will let it go. For you nerds:

Q=hA(T2-T1) even though we have to factor in pressure drop for automotive applications that is still the basic equation.

14. Other stuff I am forgetting!

So that leads me to give you all more to read and look at with pictures from the items that took me some time in the past.
First was converting over to a MSPNP2, which is pretty fun and easy when you pay close attention to details. Found a bunch of rust under the condenser? of the AC unit. Anyways right or wrong on that had to pry that sucker out because PB blaster did not do much good. If I had used CRC's freeze off stuff that would have worked like a charm. It works on EVERYTHING and anything!

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I literally just drilled 4 holes in the floor pan and screwed in some screws. Worked like a charm. I kept the padding behind it to reduce vibration of the unit and overall noise.


I got a GM IAT and a cone filter from advanced auto and got those installed. The connector was being a dick and I just used high temp electrical tape in its stead. I WILL FIX THAT I PROMISE! Zip ties all around to remind me of how professional my installs are!

PACKAGE!
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That piece of pipe did not do the job I wanted because it created a moment arm on the assembly and caused it to move around too much. It also kept the pod filter way too close to the exhaust manifold.

My solution for it:

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I was going to get some sheet metal from Lowes and do the popsicle stick thing with the cardboard to get this thing just right buuuut I wanted to focus my efforts elsewhere to be able to get some turbo power sooner rather than later.

I managed to locate the correct wires to solder into and found that both Weller soldering irons that I borrowed from work did not heat the wire up enough so I had to cheat and touch the iron to the solder…for shame I know…

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I also got the Innovate Motorsports MTX L installed and now its just dangling in the center console compartment.

I plan on getting one of those 3 gauge things (DDM Motorsports or something) and have my boost gauge there to keep the inside clean.

My next thing was cleaning up the braking system. I managed to put some fresh fluid in and take care of the slave cylinder by just putting some fresh fluid through both when my father visited.


Went ahead and painted the calipers...(I can feel the judgement, but I am good :party:)

Right before I was doing this I wanted to change front rotors and I had one that was stuck. Luckily I used the tighten the grade 8 bolts to pop that sucker off trick. IT LITERALLY POPS OFF!

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I think some pictures are in order of when I officially converted the car to a ricer by painting brake calipers. I like the subtleness of the black.

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I also installed some turn signal induction lights as I was getting intake temperatures of 135 deg F because of my poor location of the pod filter next to the exhaust manifold…Going to leave it like that so I can focus spending on turbo stuff!



Disclaimer: I understand that putting the turn signal induction lights could yield some higher engine bay internal pressures but that is ok with me for now.


Now onto the next thing was installing stainless steel braided brake lines. Just some pictures. I am not going to detail this one as its more straight forward than the directions from DIYAutotune.

I then got EXTREMELY OCD about the paint job out of nowhere…I entertained the idea of a neighbor painting the miata for me for $100 not including the cost of paint and primer and stuff…which btw is like $300 from the store he wanted to get it from. So I then began to sand the front bumper finding LOADS of imperfections and things that upset me in ways I cannot explain.

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Haha. So over the course of months I got stuck on this idea and wasted tons of time I could have been working on turbo kitty powahhh!

So I finally got it all primered and to where I was satisfied with it and the guy who wanted to paint it started acting flaky…Like your side girl when she meets a guy and starts liking him…LOL JK. My jokes are terrible ignore them. So I finally got the thing painted 2/19/2015 which was two days ago from when I am writing this.

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I actually went back and tried to do a better job on the front bumper because of all of the noticeable impurrrrfections. (LOL)
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ALL BLACK! MAACO took care of it and actually messed up so I will have to take it to them next week again for them to fix it. By the way, some people are kind and some people are dicks and the guy who owns this place is a dick. That is all I will remark on that!

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TURBO KITTY!

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I also have changed the spark plugs out and found them to be extremely fouled up and 0.010” off where they need to be. I replaced them with what was recommended to me by Trackspeed Engineering. Thanks for the support there!

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By the way, this definitely helped the idle sound smoother. I would recommend doing this when you first buy the car as it only costs like $20 for the dielectric grease, anti sieze and the plugs from advanced auto.

I also received the EV14's from a fellow MT.netter a couple weeks back.

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I also got the FM1 clutch. Wish I bought the happy meal as I have this heavy 1.8 flywheel in my garage that could have been 10 lbs lighter...might see what it takes a machine shop to lighten and balance it...

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I bought the Torsen LSD (I believe to be a 4.1 ratio) only $300 from someone! Hot dog! Pulled it apart to inspect it a couple weeks ago!

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The kind gentleman also was selling TSE COP kit for $100 bucks so I jumped on it ($200 of savings there).

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GO HOKIES! – Yes that is hokie stone from when they were building Lavary Hall aka Turner’s to the local folk!

Put a >2" test pipe to give the exhaust some better stock sounds! This is like the second ricer thing I have done...Oh no I might be....A RICER! Haha JK. Once again ignore the jokes.

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Prepping for the weekend!

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Now back to this present weekend…My father and I are working on getting this stock rear diff out and it took us 6 hours to pull it out because of 1 stupid component that would not want us to separate it from the power plant frame (PPF). Ignore my explaining some of the acronyms, I am doing this write up for some of my family to read up on as well. The first day we managed to get out all of the components from the car (25 years old hard to believe they even came out!)


Note to people doing this job. Screw the torch and get some crc freeze off! This stuff is FANTASTIC! Also buy that new craftsman high torque impact wrench. 300 ft-lbs of torque made breaking any bolt easy. Just wear some ear plugs so it doesn't sound like you just got back from a concert...

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That took all of 6 hours which includes going to the store to buy the freeze off an seperating the Torsen halfshafts from the axle nuts. DO NOT USE THE NUT TO HAMMER THESE THINGS FREE! Get a piece of wood or a punch and hammer right on the head of the spline shaft. It works like a charm. You are applying a ring load on the shaft instead of a concentrated/evenly distributed load on the head of the spline shaft. Much better and will save you a lot of heartache as at the conclusion of this install (spoiler alert!) i could barely get the new axle nuts on because we destroyed some threading.

Back to work the next day!

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Had to move the wheel bearing around by removing the boot and then hammer the spline shaft in. That worked very well.

Then we continued on working and removed the PPF and gave it a nice buff. Thanks Dad for that. That's the picture of it dirty so not very good before and after, but I can promise you it shines like a diamond now.


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Cool comparison to note.

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All done!

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That pretty much sums up my past year and a half.

I will continue to post more as I go. It will be slow so be patient. I hope all of the image links are good and the write up is not to grammatically incorrect. Please post any criticism, feedback, encouragement or whatever as this forum has been the sole reason I could do a lot of this work. I hope everyone enjoys the read and hope to have turbo kitty powahhhh by summer by using an MK Turbo setup.

I am just going to link you all to the word document I have with all of the pictures in it as a package. Working on it now.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-F...ew?usp=sharing

See if that works. Download and read at your own pace! Enjoy!

Updated all pictures on original post. ENJOY!

Considering purchasing a fab9 intercooler. I have considered begi and FM. Any other vendor considerations that could be made for a quality IC? Ebay is out.

Thanks aidan! I unfortunately do not have the capability of welding up some brackets(no welder). How has your experience been with the intercooler setup?

Welding isnt needed. Its been good so far.

We can figure out brackets for an IC.

The Begi and Fab9 intercoolers are very good. I believe FM sources Chinese ones now to help cut costs.

10-4. I'll research and see if I can get one coming soon with some piping. Appreciate the feeback gentlemen.

So update for those interested:
Purchased ebay intercooler and it should be arriving this week.
Just purchased a sweet looking boost gauge! Autometer #5903.
Need to buy a gauge panel from trackdog this week to mount them.
Installed toyota cops yesterday and turned over the mazderr and the idle was very different. Seems like the rpms were very high and the car was almost shaking so I'm doing some research based largely on 3 of Brain's posts and trying to hammer that out this week. I set the cranking dwell to 3.5ms and the nominal dwell to 3ms so It looks like I need to lower the nominal a little more and make some adjustments to the dwell battery adjustment. So more to come there. Any input would be very helpful so I dont burn up a coil or two. Lol. Pics of install for your viewing pleasure.

One more picture.

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Sounds like a misfire. Use the test mode to check for spark.

Thanks for the input. Now how do you do that? Haha

What megasquirt do you have?

Mspnp29093

I believe its under the CAN/Test mode. Google megasquirt how to test coils.

Looking up now. Trying to do this while on a conference call with some engineers haha.

Open test menu:

http://i58.tinypic.com/6o2zhv.jpg

Inj/Spk test:

http://i61.tinypic.com/257opp5.jpg

Enable test mode:

http://i61.tinypic.com/whz1ah.jpg

Select whichever coil you want to test and press start:

http://i61.tinypic.com/2ah72nr.jpg

Then test for spark. Press stop, switch to coil b and press start again. Do this for ABCD if you have sequential spark and A and B if you have batch spark.

If sequential then:

A = 1
B = 3
C = 4
D = 2

If batch:

A = 1 & 4
B = 3 & 2

Looked it and this is the best I came up with.

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Dude just saw this after I posted just now. Thanks for the input and support Ill try this as soon as I get home from work today.

Worst update ever: I attempted the test mode with the car off and I heard a puff from the first cylinder. I noticed my tach was not working so I KNEW that one of the wires I had soldered yesterday were touching or not connected well. So i proceeded to undo all I did yesterday with the connector to the main harness and now my soldering gun is not heating up...Just my luck. It definitely sounds like misfire when I run the car though. Also noticed my fan turns on when i hook up switched 12v and then moved the coolant/water temperature gauge and it turned off...then wiggled it more and it turned on so I know there is an issue there. Ahhh the disappointment. And that's why beer was invented.

Sounds like you got some weird stuff going on.

Fans turning on could be a broken thermoswitch on the front waterneck.

Wiggling temp gauge could be a wire you knocked off when installing cops.

Yep thats why im going to rewire it and clean up the connections and verify it all this week. I think I mean to say the thermo switch which is what I wiggled. Good thing I am planning on a coolant reroute. Just need to finish buying parts...

Got a nice package in the mail today.

A coworker helped me rewire the connector to the tse cop wiring harness and using heat shrink makes it clean and the car run super smooth. Its pnp with the exception of changing two dwell settings.


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Now a little more tuning and injectors next up.

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Sleepy kitty.

Thanks for the patience with how slow the build has been!

So terribly slow build going on here. The mill I work out is in the middle of an annual shutdown so I work about 15 hours and then have no miata time... sad face.

Was able to resolve idle tuning issue and now will be pulling and installing new injectors! Then tuning some more if that works!

So quick update for those interested. I managed to remove my injectors yesterday and the seals were looking disintegrated to say the least. So now I need to get into tunerstudio and change my req_fuel and hopefully auyotune will resolve any VE table changes.

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New shift knob for looks

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Got a turbosmart from a fellow mt.netter in the mail the other day!
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Now I am working on my all-time favorite task of tuning the new EV14 injectors I purchased on here from someone. The install was as straight forward as it gets and now the fun part: Tuning.

It is very well spelled out on here what should be done initially so I thought I would reiterate it for some of the newer folks as a simple reference should people be installing them in the future that need some guidance/reference. I changed the required fuel after inputting the correct car data. Now it’s at 4.3 ms. My dead time is set to 1 ms as I experimented at idle with .95 and incremented up to 1.0 and that was the best for me. I was then getting the car running SUPER LEAN at idle like it would shoot up to like 18 and even 20 afr. So I did what anyone else would: I increased my VE idle values until my idle (mind you this is when the car is warm) got down to 14-15 afrs. My idle VE ran well and pretty stable at a 85 VE value at 29-38 fuel load %.

So today I plan on running WUE upon start up to see if that helps me richen up the idle.

Any other input would be great. I promise you this thread will get much more interesting when Lars and I proceed to install the MK turbo set up on it in the next 2-3 months.

The only thing left for me to buy in terms of parts collection is intercooler piping. I was thinking of just getting a setup from eBay and trying that, but after seeing Joe's mock up I thought it best to wait until I know exactly what tubing is needed.

And finally I have been reading reviews on radiators here (as I have collected all the parts for the reroute) and am quite intrigued as to what would be a solid recommendation from those of you with experience with a decent everyday/autox radiator. I understand heat transfer pretty darn good so no need to educate me there, just a general inquisition on reliability and experiences with radiators.

Was looking at the following:

CSF two row aluminum radiator http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-1516.html

Koyorad Hyper V http://949racing.com/koyo-hyperv-radiator-miata-na.aspx

Suggestions are highly encouraged.

Brief update: I ran some WUE yesterday and I tried running VEAL at idle to see if it would mess with my VE #s and it raised them up from 87 at 29kPa to 96 kPa. So I think I am going to up my req_fuel so that richens it up and then re-scale my VE table accordingly.
My current challenge is that the car runs hunts and then just goes super lean at idle during a hot start. Saw a couple of threads on what to adjust, but I will just keep tinkering with it as much as possible to get to where I need to be.

Good news: For those who will be running EV14s I was able to tune these suckers a little more and got my idle stable. Some more work needs to be done on some hot starts, but it settles down very well when warm.
My car did not like a dead time anything less than or greater than 1 ms.
I upped my required fuel to 5.0 ms and then rescaled the entire VE table except my idle zone by 61%. So I basically multiplied it by 1.61.

This calculation is as follows:

Original req fuel before injector upgrade: 12.8.
(12.8-5.0)/12.8 = .609~=.61

Also make sure you do some WUE each time you start the car cold to get that going well for you. Other than that I did not mess with other settings in the car.

I hope this helps people who are going to be running EV14s in the future to get a ball park of what to expect. I am a novice/noob so I did not do more than this and am now leaving the fine tuning of my VE table to VEAL.

It has been 12 days since my last update and I have basically tore this car down. I have removed my belts and am working towards changing the timing belt, ac, and alternator belt as well, installing FM stage 1 clutch, coolant reroute, painting valve cover, replacing valve cover gasket, some touch up paint inside of car and anything else I can't remember to get this thing prepped for shuiend's MK turbo.

Some pictures for your viewing pleasure:

Used 1.8 Flywheel that I will be getting machined and hopefully back in my hands at the end of the week or next week at the latest.
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Condition of transmission
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Found an Exedy clutch in there in pretty good condition.
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Seems like cam seal has been or leaked at one point in time.
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Crank seal that has DEFINITELY been leaking
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As she sits now.
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Valve cover removed...Yucky!
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This made me lol. You really think that you have one of the very first miatas (one of the most popular sports car ever made) in a metropolitan area of over 100,000 people?

EDIT: And to back up my argument, here is the Charleston Miata club: Home

Just sayin', it's a Miata. Not a Porsche 911GT3.

Well there were only 12420 Miata's built in 1990 in UC white. I don't see where you are trying to direct me, but it is definitely possible that this is or is not one of the first. I was just told by the third owner that the gentleman who had it got it from a man who owned a shop in summerville sc and I have scanned documents from the maintenance history dating back to 1995. So its very possible that this in fact was one of the first. No matter though. I appreciate you reading my build though!

Actual Progress
 

Was able to make some legit progress this weekend in preparation for some auto cross and mk Turbo.
I managed to change the water pump, cam and crank seals, cas o ring, all of which were leaking like hell, alternator belt, timing belt, valve cover gasket, painted valve cover, coolant reroute and NEW RADIATOR from csf, and some other stuff I'm forgetting. Pics for your entertainment.

My latest endeavor:tablet in car replacing radio and such
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Coolant reroute pic
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Coolant reroute pic
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Before
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Final product
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More baby steps
 

So I made some baby steps this weekend and today. Was able to dremel the hell out of the tombstone to relocate the A/C. Which by the way I haven't the slightest idea if it will fit as I want it to. Going to have to dremel some more and figure out a good mounting solution.

I also managed to get a second hand NRG steering wheel and so I fit it up and it looks MUCH better than stock.

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The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

So it's been I while since I updated. I got the clutch installed and now I need to wear it in. A couple of things came up when I first drove the car:
1. Afr gauge needs to be recalibrated as it's reading differently from what the ecu is. 2. Boost gauge stopped reading...might be a hole in the flimsy line I got from autometer.
3. I need to mount my amp in the trunk
4. the center console needs some work
5. Having huge heat soaking issues so I might apply some MLT or whatever corrections and make a temporary cold air intake of sorts that puts the GM IAT sensor in it to prevent all of the engine heat to soak it.
6. Decide on tires for the car.


Pics for fun.

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The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

just got this in the mail. Next step will be to port the turbo and mount the intercooler!

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The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

look what arrived today! now I need yo port it. any recommendations on what type of carbide drill bit to buy.
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Alright everyone it has been a long time since I have posted. I got a lot of work done on my car and am almost ready to get the mkturbo awesome feeling that most have been experiencing. I am struggling with one variable though: my idle. I have reached out to some people with advice based on the symptoms I am experiencing so no luck.

I need some forum help to make dreams come true.
please forgive the length of this write up as I want to ensure I cover everything here to give you all enough information.

Issues:
1) Idle is very high, approximately 2000 rpm and mayyybe settles to 1850 and fluctuates +/- 100 rpms.
2) AFR calculated value in tunerstudio is reading .5-1 higher than what the afr gauge is reading in car

Steps taken to alleviate issues:

To address 1), I suspected I had a vacuum leak so I revisited the tubing to the vacuum/boost gauge I have and got that sorted out so now my vac/boost gauge is working.

I removed the IACV and cleaned with throttle/ air intake cleaner and same with the throttle body. Reinstalled with gasket maker instead of o ring ( new one on the way) just as a temporary solution which produced the same results.

To address 2) I attempted to change the voltages in the calibrate afr table menu and to no avail.

I verified the wires were connected correctly. I recalibrated the innvoate mtx l. Same issues. I even redid the grounding. Same issues.

Some of the things that were recommeded to me: go to closed loop tuning and learn to tune the idle that way. I didn't do this yet as I asked myself: "If open loop tuning worked before why do I need to change?"

Some variables that could influence this issue: I installed an amp into the car and wired that up. I wonder if this is could be putting a lot of electrical strain on the system...

Redid timing belt and set timing. I verified that and it checked out.

Are there any other recommendations feedback someone could provide?

I have attached files for reference. To be noted in the video: afr readout in tunerstudio jumps like hell but is ok on afr gauge. It is quite rich I know, BUT on other startups it has stayed a consistent 14.3 afr (what it did before this mess) and the idle was around 1200 - 1400 rpm.

Please help. :(

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

Thanks to Lars we got this thing idling like normal. Glad to be part of this community. Next up: fine tuning Idle and intercooler install.

We got it idling ok. I would not say it is like normal. Now it just needs lots of fine tuning, but the car is driveable.

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

That part I'll get sorted out. Good stuff nonetheless though. And then it will be mk turbo time. First 1.6 with an mk setup??

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

So made some progress and mounted the recommended intercooler in preparation for the mk turbo setup this weekend. Please note that I did not have 2" t bolt clamps so I need to get those and I ran out of aluminum piping 90s so I had to improvise. I could use two reducers as well but everything fits. The undertray is sitting back a smidge so it will be held by 4 bolts for now. Will need to make a sheet metal plate for IC yo channel air to it and connect bumper to it as I'm getting rid of that plastic piece that originally connected to the bumper.

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Front view

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Top view- have a turbosmart bov and will run recirculation just because I want to use that particular turbosmart. Note: tentative top view until turbo gets installed.

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Passenger's side view

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Driver's side

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And down thru the center.

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

Well just dropped her off with Lars to get some mk turbo greatness. This will be the first model 1.6. Stay tuned for awesomeness.

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

Test fit done today. You may have seen this in the mk turbo thread but I'm putting it here for build thread completeness.

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Manifold fitment

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Turbo fitment

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

So I has da boost! Very cool! Here is a picture of the setup. I will get more and upload. Please note the zip ties add 5 hp each and this was just setup to get me home from shuiend's garage.

I will post trip home and shenanigans after that tonight.

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So I was able to drive it again today, looks like a boost leak as I am not feeling boost haha. Here is a log of me just driving it now.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/03o1m80ied...01.40.msl?dl=0

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

Drove the miata yesterday and still have a boost leak! Today I bought a leak tester from silicon intakes and took off the undertray to inspect my intercooler piping. I managed to tighten a few t bolts and realized I had some were that were a bit too large so I ordered the right size today as wrll.
I found a fitting that was leaking oil so I tightened that up. Leak averted.

I then decided to take off the exhaust as I need to grind off a Nipple that keeps hitting my brand new exhaust and drives me bonkers while driving. I then decided to clean some of the welds up and I am starting to give them a couple coats of your typical rustoleom(spelling?) High temp paint so that it prevents surface rust at the welds.

Plan is to fix my leaking axle seals on rear diff this weekend so I don't have to worry about that any more.

Pic for fun.
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congrats sir
a lot of those couplers look like they're too big so I bet that's where you're leaking

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

Thanks! I had ordered a 2.5" ebay kit and then got 2" pipe for the hot side because 2.5" didn't fit (shoyld have listened to Lars) soooooo yeah I definitely need to use 2" t bolts as a starting point so I can get everything super snug.

One day I will use a Garrett.

Got a lot work work done today. Cleaned and painted welds for maximum life. Heat wrapped downpipe and sealed it. Made the most hideous heat shield for brake lines and coolant hoses. I won't scar your memories with this chunk of horribly made metal. ;)
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Well I think I still have a little leak but not much. I think I know where it is tho. I am concerned the the chra is hitting either the compressor or turbine housing so I'll try to pull it tomorrow. Here is a screen shot of max boost acheived today.
Attachment 234216

Mk turbo on my car at idle.

that looks like a huge leak, not a little one
it is really bad for the turbo to boost it with a leak, I suggest you properly fix it once and for all asap

The Mazzder MX FIVE Build
 

Good looking out. Will do.

Additionally the parts for leak testing should be here today or tomorrow. :)

So here is a screen shot of the miata boosting on the MK turbo. Note this one was one of the better pulls, but I had to slow down because I was speeding pretty good as it is.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442962322

Did some porting. Before and after shown below.

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Attachment 234215

Going to memphis for a week for work so I'll put it all back together Friday or Saturday as time allows.

I finished up the porting show in the previous post by taking out some space behind the flapper and actually on it a bit so it would allow a smaller volume (I think of it as a pie shape more) of air to pass through. Below is a side by side comparison of before porting and then after. You can see that I did not hit my max boost numbers on the second graph as I shifted before that to enjoy the car more. It did produce a more linear trend as well as slowly get to the overboost protection of 170 kPa.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443972412
9/23/2015
3rd: 3802 rpm @119kPa to 4483 rpm @173.9 kPa with a delta t(time) of 2.145 s
2nd: 2250 rpm @95.9 kPa to 5021 rpm @161.7 kPa with a delta t(time) of 4 s
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443972412
10/3/2015
3rd: 3529 rpm @119kPa to 4554 rpm @162.2 kPa with a delta t(time) of 2.674 s
2nd: 2632 rpm @98 kPa to 4867 rpm @154.7 kPa with a delta t(time) of 3.472 s