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This is quite some awesomeness! In for detailed pics of subframe mounting structure madness. I've always wanted to try something like this.
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 844469)
holy crap this is brilliant.
my friend trying to miata swap a triumph spitfire NEEDS to see this. sending link now lol |
Don't think he has one, but I'll encourage him to start.
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 844477)
My dilema is how far to carry it. I've added the firewall to carry all of the pedals, plus grommets for wiring harnesses, etc and the HVAC system if I want. Then I was carrying through the front frame rails to pick up the front subframe mount. THEN I figured, why not keep the stock shock pockets in place? It now appears that I could keep the entire Miata fender UNDER the existing fender. We will see.
I also cut out the entire rear center section of the car that holds the rear subframe and the gas tank.:giggle: I just have to watch weight. It's easy to add weight when grafting in other parts. Besides, an extra couple hundo pounds can always be offset with MOAR BOOST:D |
the thread is started...
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...522#post844522 not a Spitiata... its the spit and shove... named for the raping it will be dealing out... awesome build so far... i luck out...the spitfire has a frame so bracing doesnt have to be too extensive. |
Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 844477)
My dilema is how far to carry it. I've added the firewall to carry all of the pedals, plus grommets for wiring harnesses, etc and the HVAC system if I want. Then I was carrying through the front frame rails to pick up the front subframe mount. THEN I figured, why not keep the stock shock pockets in place? It now appears that I could keep the entire Miata fender UNDER the existing fender. We will see.
I also cut out the entire rear center section of the car that holds the rear subframe and the gas tank.:giggle: I just have to watch weight. It's easy to add weight when grafting in other parts. What are the prospects of doing a body swap on the miata? You've seen pictures of naked miatas before: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1329808064 It seems (from my limited ability to see your project up close) that just popping the bodies off both cars, trimming the miata's extremeties, and slapping the Saab back down onto the miata chassis would be ... logistically possible? |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 844623)
It seems (from my limited ability to see your project up close) that just popping the bodies off both cars, trimming the miata's extremeties, and slapping the Saab back down onto the miata chassis would be ... logistically possible?
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 844623)
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you want some of it back for aero.
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Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 844477)
I also cut out the entire rear center section of the car that holds the rear subframe and the gas tank.:giggle: I just have to watch weight. It's easy to add weight when grafting in other parts.
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Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 844647)
The biggest issue is the Miata has a 9" shorter wheelbase.
option b: saw off 9 inches of the power plant frame. option c: move the front suspension pickup points 9" rearward. Where do they eliminate this "9 inches" compared to a miata? |
can you not cut the shell in half and make it 9" shorter?
n/m roofline will be a bitch. |
Originally Posted by pusha
(Post 844780)
What are you doing for a fuel tank? Reusing the Miata tank? Why not look into a fuel cell? Apologies if you've already addressed this and I simply missed it.
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Originally Posted by Stein
(Post 844647)
The biggest issue is the Miata has a 9" shorter wheelbase.
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 845114)
Couldn't you could just cut the Miata tub in half, use tube inserts in the frame rails, and then a section from a second tub to extend the interior sheet metal?
this would probably work. |
2 Attachment(s)
Buying a new toy today at lunch! I've always wanted a plasma cutter and this project justifies one. On top of that I stopped at my local Linweld shop for some .023" wire for my welder yesterday and they were having an open house. Hypertherm is the best brand out there for plasma cutters but they were always $1,400 and sometimes $1250 on ebay. They have them on the open house for $1,033 and included a $180 air filtration system for free. Picking one up today. They had the Thermal Dynamics unit for $872 but the Hypertherm is the best unit and you can drag the tip. Helpful when working in a cramped area. I'm very happy.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331218212 |
OH the MIATA is the shorter car.
then that's easy. You just need a spare wrecked miata to section the middle from and then you can overlap joint the power plant frames. |
1 Attachment(s)
I was thinking a second tube with damaged ends would be free vs. the overlap. I would have the piece needed if this build was a year ago.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331227676 |
Got to play with my new plasma cutter tonight. The question is: How did I get along without one for so long? This thing is awesome! More rust than metal? Cuts right through it. Undercoating? Like it isn't even there. I even had some 1/8" thick tar paper sound deadening sheet inside of the car on the fenders. Strike the arc and cut through it even with the tar paper on the inside of the cut. I was worried that it would need clean metal. Chuck Testa.
I haven't cut anything thick yet. The guy said it would be a rough cut but it can do 3/4" thick. It's rated for 3/8" on a fine cut. I got the floor pan into position and measured out where I need to cut for the front subframe rails. I laid it out with a sharpie. Then measured again. Then drank a beer looking at it and measured again. I get one shot at cutting this so I decided to wait until tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by rleete
(Post 844667)
I'd really like to know how legal that would be in NY. I imagine you'd need stuff like a windsheild, wipers, headlights. But I wonder about no hood/fenters/doors. Maybe cloth ones like a Jeep?
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3 Attachment(s)
Got a bit more done today.
Marked out where I need to cut the unibody/fender liners to fit with the floor in the location needed to position the front wheel in the middle of the fender as well as lowering the car from 4x4 ride height. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331359121 Cut away the offending metal. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331359121 One side of the front subframe mount tacked into place. After I tack in the second one I'll bolt in the subframe. It takes eight bolts in widely spaced locations to bolt it in place so that will help locate everything for final welding. Depending on how the weekend goes the motor/trans may be in place by Sunday night, at least for a test fit. Everything is lining up really well. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331359121 |
Nice build.
IN for more.. |
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