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He said to mock it up
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Im ordering a EFR 7163 Twin Scroll that psyber has been drooling over
Then im shipping it to Matt @ hellafab to make a twin scroll manifold. Its the first one he will have done so he needs the turbo to mock one up. Then ill have a wicked motor/turbo setup Does that clarify at all? |
Excited to see how this goes. No one has completed their efr 7163 projects yet (unless I'm behind on reading) let alone a tighter trim twin scroll of said turbo.
What A time to be alive. Makes me wish I was building another car. |
Yea I couldn't find any build thread that has a efr twin scroll. In one of the other threads someone mentioned wanting to try one. As far as I know this will be the first. Can't wait for it to be done. It'll be a transmission eater haha
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Got the seat mounted with some planted seat rails I got off offer up for $60. Has to mildly beat the trans tunnel to move the seat as far over as possible but it fits. Also found a pair of profi ii 6pt harnesses from a guy on here that will be going in soon.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4a14507737.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d543f48b4a.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0fa49277ef.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5481ca22cc.jpg |
Not quite miata conditions on the way to the fire station today
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e345c104c1.jpg |
Disregard. Literally found my answer 2 seconds after this post. Searched all yesterday and just saw the below thread. https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...cussion-54434/ |
So what we have here is a 1.8 flywheel that had the weight cut off and zero balanced.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e0f07bf0f8.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...97eb3d5b4f.jpg The intake manifold was cleaned and painted. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1b8fa6a845.jpg Bungs welded on valve cover and painted to match. The passenger bung will get capped and the driver side will be run to a Radium AOS https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...38009029fb.jpg Then got the new splitter all mounted up using an aluminum structure and 3mm wire and ends from harbor freight. Made the splitter from 1/2 birch ply from home depot motorsports https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f15acd24f8.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ea04dea70.jpg |
Originally Posted by Chiburbian
(Post 1461951)
I am using this... I have my small fan controlled by MS through a standard relay. It comes on at 220 degrees or if my AC compressor is on. My big fan is PWM controlled by the Derale fan controller and starts coming on (just barely spinning) about 170 degrees. It doesn't start moving any serious air until 190 or so.
http://derale.com/products/electric-...n-probe-detail I also have the sensor that threads into a coolant source and had to put a bunch of in-line resistors to (bias resistors I guess) that brings the usable range of the sensor in line with what will control the Derale. Also, the Derale is forced into 60% mode if the coolant gets to 205 degrees by MS. This is basically a fail safe in case the sensor fails. (I see you mention this specifically... I am just coming back to this thread and didn't read completely) |
Started wiring the Derale PWM fan controller last night. Where should I pull power in the engine bay? Can i use the power off of the 80a main fuse in the fuse box on the passenger side. There is a stud right off of it that would make it easy i just dont want to screw up anything else if I do.
As always pictures will come. |
that main fuse would come straight from the battery, yeah? Its been a few years since I have seen a Miata bay with wiring in it lol.
Pull power after the main fuse, somewhere that it wont be current limited (aka light fuse). |
Won't that starve my headlights for power when the fan comes on?
the fan draws 40a on startup and 22a continuous however I have a pwm controller with soft start so startup is minimum and full tilt boogie is 22a now. |
Can't you just use power from the stock fan relay?
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a PWM controller should ramp up to speed (soft start).
also, if you hook your controller directly to the wire that runs to the battery and that drains your lights, you have more problems. |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1465663)
a PWM controller should ramp up to speed (soft start).
also, if you hook your controller directly to the wire that runs to the battery and that drains your lights, you have more problems. Also unrelated to the fan im welding in a 3/8 NPT bung for gm oil temp sensor and a -10 AN for my AOS to drain into the pan. Im welding the -10 fitting directly above the oil drain. Where should i put the oil temp bung? I can go to the side of the drain, or next to the -10, or opposite side and mirror where the oil drain is but them I have wiring on the hot side of the world. Just dont want the temp sensor to hit oem subframe or motor mounts obviously |
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to start, you want the oil drain on the same side as the turbo. ;)
you want the oil drain to be above the line of oil in the sump and you want the oil temperature sensor below. I would mount the oil temp sensor on the intake side but make sure it fits with the subframe. |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1465687)
to start, you want the oil drain on the same side as the turbo. ;)
you want the oil drain to be above the line of oil in the sump and you want the oil temperature sensor below. I would mount the oil temp sensor on the intake side but make sure it fits with the subframe. Temp sensor will fit the subframe above the drain hole, just be sure there's no rib or interference behind where you drill for that oem baffle plate |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1465690)
He's talking about an air oil separator drain not turbo.
Temp sensor will fit the subframe above the drain hole, just be sure there's no rib or interference behind where you drill for that oem baffle plate Also green light has been given to Shlammed (Matt) to start building a manifold! |
Any reason not to put the oil temp bung on the hot side then just run the wire with the O2 sensor
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