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You can only upload 100 pictures at a time. Who knew. The final 10:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4443181d04.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3f66b5aff.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...76e24e1521.jpg Test fit of the I beam and making sure the hook works https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4fa4b20df.jpg Test fit of the I beam and making sure the hook works https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3c6ad972cd.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...550ee7ab24.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...557d0a7cba.jpg Mounted. Party time! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f25f1f472f.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...44f9dc4061.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fbff3d5eae.jpg Empty storage unit is empty! |
In for NA build
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More info on the I beam, as I am sure there will be questions:
4" I beam sourced locally, 7' / foot I beam support: a) 4x6 in wall at wall end of I beam. I beam at wall end sits on a pair of 2x4's that run from the concrete floor to the I beam. The inside 2x4 is screwed to the 4x6 through the drywall at 1' spacing; the outside 2x4 is screwed to the other 2x4 by 3" screws at 1' spacing interleaved between the inside 2x4's screws. b) 4x6 in each side wall, supporting c) 4x6 cross beam in ceiling (spans roughly 16') d) I beam is directly resting on the 2x4's at one end, and bolted to the 4x6 at that end with lag screws. On the interior end, there are two grade 8 1/2" bolts that are hanging the I beam from the 4x6 cross member in the ceiling. In the attic there is a 12" x 3" x 1/4" steel saddle plate that the bolts go through as well to distribute the load a bit more. This is all done according to the real structural I had done. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1529050)
In for NA build
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I swear i love seeing a garage build more than i like seeing a car build, awesome work
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Wooo! Nice job on the garage!
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Good to see you post. Nice garage, so jealous! Mine isn't quite as bad as the description of your old one, but it sounds familiar :facepalm:
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Very nice!
But... what's next?? |
Nice idea with the ibeam! What's the load capacity for that setup ?
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slick setup! if the build follows suit, this should be a good one
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Nice build! But now I am confused.. I came to "Build Threads" for Miata building motivation.. But I am now unsure if I want to work on the house, or car...
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1529242)
Very nice!
But... what's next??
Originally Posted by phocup
(Post 1529250)
Nice idea with the ibeam! What's the load capacity for that setup ?
So it's rated for anything I can realistically get into the garage and expect to hoist. Worst case scenario is ls3+T56, figure roughly 700lbs for that. |
Nice. I'll have to copy your ibeam idea when I get the shed going later this year!
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really awesome work on your garage man. I look forward to lurking on w/e build threads you have in teh future. I've always enjoyed all of your build threads, I'm sure this will be the same.
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Originally Posted by EErockMiata
(Post 1529368)
really awesome work on your garage man. I look forward to lurking on w/e build threads you have in teh future. I've always enjoyed all of your build threads, I'm sure this will be the same.
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1529242)
Very nice!
But... what's next?? |
YESSSS. Com back Richard. We miss you.
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And here we are, back to where we belong. 2001 LS, Emerald Mica, 6 speed w/ ABS and cruise control. Feels like we've been here before. It's a good feeling.
110k miles. Minor cosmetics with the front bumper, where the license plate holder has in the past made contact during parking, and a minor scrape on the right rear bumper cover. Other than that, externally it's in great shape, water was beading everywhere as I sat in 5mph traffic trying to leave Seattle today at 2:45pm. It has the original clutch still, because it has the '01 judder in certain sets of clutch engagement possibilities. Like, idling in 2nd is too fast for traffic, so you need to downshift into first. Or you're on an incline, and don't rev enough to get past the juddering engagement RPM. Otherwise mechanically it seems perfect. Had it up to 90 a couple of times once traffic cleared (this is just keeping up with traffic in the fast lane), no vibration whatsoever. It was also raining significant amounts for part of the trip, no leaks, no squeaks, no rattles. The tires on it are only a year old and are Goodrich Comp2 AS's, which is what I would have put on it anyway. A speed rated all season that's trackable. PO gave me a spreadsheet of all the maintenance he'd done and that he could find from other records. The trans even has the Motorcraft fluid in it already. Body panel fitment, especially the hood <--> bumper cover gap, is better than on my original car. So, very happy. Glad to be back in the community and have projects to think about again. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...df7a469ec9.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8b22894d4e.jpg |
As cool as it would have been for you to buy my car, this seems right.
Did it come with that hardtop or did you put yours on the car? |
Two hardtops! First world problems. I will be selling my existing hardtop and keeping the one that came with this car, as it is cosmetically better in a minor sense.
This transmission has the same "crunch" or notch going into second that my original trans (which I still have and is currently connected to my beautiful motor put together by Curly) had. Leads me to believe it's not an indicator of significant wear on early 6 speeds, rather it's just a fact of life with this generation Aisin transmissions. |
Awesome updates!
I'm currently pricing out garage doors for my 8'x9' opening.... Do I even want to know how much that overhead door model was? I want something insulated so I'm looking at the model 625. We have a local distributor... Did they give quick estimates? It looks like the cheesy bubble wrap insulated model from overheaddoorsdirect is going to be $1500 before freight (with the roll-up motor). |
They are not inexpensive. The "good" news is that you'll still be in a four digit price.
This one is the 625. RSX right hand drive wall mount, two photo eyes, and remotes. I believe my opening is 8x7. I don't know if their prices are different in different regions but figure on 4x the cost of the cheesy door. My contractor and all of his guys were floored by it, though. They loved it. "Dude, your door, that thing is awesome!" I have all of my ceiling space available. I'd do it again, definitely. Got car stuff done today! Installed the seats, replaced the pax hardtop side latch with a rennenmetal bracket because the Tillett pax seat prevents latch opening and closure, and replaced the stock muffler with my Roadstersport 3. Not as much of a difference as I thought there would be, but I didn't swap the midpipe yet. The plug in the rear O2 sensor bung is rusted in good and tight. I'll have to put my Enthuza on to wake up the exhaust. I had forgotten how fantastically painful removing that stock muffler is. I'm not sure it had ever been off. I got to use my awesome $30 impact gun that I got at my sons' high school fundraiser auction to remove the muffler nuts. My electric Bosch isn't super powerful, but it didn't touch them. This thing spun them right off. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08ecaea27e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bbdb4ba217.jpg |
Garage looks great. Don't put it into a wall :-X
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Thanks Alex. You should stop by and check it out sometime and have a beer.
I see what you did there. But there are more creative ways: Q: why would the military have been a poor life choice for Mobius? A: Because he keeps going AWOL! Q: If Mobius smoked, what would his preferred cigarette brand be? A: Wallboro Lights! Q: What's the favorite fish of Mobius? A: Walleyed Pike! I enjoy speed, and I like the hobby/engineering aspect of doing things to a car in pursuit of speed. Bringing the vehicle home intact will always be the #1 priority. I will still collect and analyze data, because I'm wired that way and I like knowing things for the sake of knowing things. But I have no, since this is mt.net this is probably the best way to put it, I have no laptime penis. And no laptime ego to defend. |
Finally had time to work on the car. Rear carpet and trim and soft top are out for roll bar and fuel pump. Got the fuel pump relay upgrade wired in, but it's not spinning up the pump at key on.
New relay is wired to the battery. Harness red/blue wired to the blue trigger wire of the new relay Red power from relay wired to red/blue pin on pump connector pump connector ground connected to drivers seat ground. I have not yet connected the red/white and red/blue wires at the fuel pump relay. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...513069bae8.png https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c92ebd0e77.png |
Yaaaasss Richard yaass.
I still need to put my wiring kit in. |
Where’s your coil ground? Relay needs 4 pins to work, you mentioned three and a ground for the pump
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1536277)
Where’s your coil ground? Relay needs 4 pins to work, you mentioned three and a ground for the pump
To summarize wiring as of right now: harness blue/red -> blue trigger wire on 85 red relay power wire w/fuse to battery (30) 30 --> is jumpered to 86 (as came in box) pink wire (87) to fuel pump power pin fuel pump grounded to chassis as described in instructions Just verified no power getting to the pump at the pump connector. Which we assumed, but good to check. Relevant photos: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7bb648e727.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...884d5d5318.png https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...60cd4afe73.png |
The trigger wire is supposed to be ground-switched. That’s why one side of the coil is jumpered to the power input of the relay.
The blue wire needs to be grounded to activate the relay. |
Yup, you’ve got three power wires there. Should be 2 and a ground
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Huh. I have exactly followed the instructions which very clearly state blue/red goes to the trigger wire. Will pursue with instruction writer
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According to youtube my blue trigger wire should be 86, not 85. 85 should be coil ground. Will pursue this tomorrow, removing jumper wire from always +12v 30 to 86. If this works will relay to instruction writer.
But by my count, I still need 3 power wires, plus a ground, not 2 plus a ground: +12v power to relay itself, that is switched to +12v power feed to pump, when +12v trigger wire is lit by the car. That's 3 power wires, 1 ground wire, no waiting. |
85/86 are interchangeable. I meant you had three power inputs, and a power output. You need 2 power inputs, a ground, and the power output. The wire that loops from the battery to 85 or 86 or whatever it is needs to go to ground. Not sure if that’s what you just said or not.
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Man this is a PITA. I have verified relay works, and works when the harness blue/red wire gives it +12v. Wired as follows:
harness blue/red -> blue trigger wire on 85 red relay power wire w/fuse to battery (30) ground -> 86 pink wire (87) to fuel pump power pin I have verified that when I put +12v onto blue/red at the stock fuel pump relay connector the new relay triggers. However, at that stock fuel pump relay connector, I'm not seeing +12v on the red/white wire, which should be hot at key on. So now I'm thinking my main relay has died, which would be ironic since the whole point of this exercise is to keep the main relay from dying. |
Replaced the main relay, no change. Gave up and made dinner for the family.
I have the mellens.net wiring diagrams I am supposed to see 12v at key on at the red/white wire of the OEM fuel pump relay connector, correct? Which then triggers oem relay to send +12v down the blue/red wire to the fuel pump. |
Forgive me if I missed it, what size is the garage? It looks great!!!
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Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1537254)
Replaced the main relay, no change. Gave up and made dinner for the family.
I have the mellens.net wiring diagrams I am supposed to see 12v at key on at the red/white wire of the OEM fuel pump relay connector, correct? Which then triggers oem relay to send +12v down the blue/red wire to the fuel pump. EDIT: I talked out my ass and got the colors mixed up (now fixed) with some random other year. NB2 is different with immobilizer, follow the instructions. But what I wrote above still explains the gist of how it works, which doesn’t seem to line up with what you’re expecting. |
Richard should check his email for the instructions I sent him a week ago
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There are two versions of the rewire kit. The first version is what the vast majority of people have, and it bypasses the factory relay. By doing this, the ECU is supposed to ground the blue wire on the new relay harness. Some applications (90-93 and some other odd car/ECU combinations) didn't appreciate that method, so the 2nd version retains the factory relay and uses it to send trigger +12v to the new relay. It should work with everything.
Richard has the first version, and his email contains the instructions for the first version. He should use those |
In this thread:
Richard learns how a relay works Richard receives advice from several sources, including youtube, most of which is correct in the right situation but maybe not exactly correct for right now Richard learns his understanding of what the wires in his wiring harness do at key on is incorrect Richard learns about ground-switched devices Also in this thread: Richard is working about 65 hours Mon-Fri, so car progress has to wait. I get how things are supposed to work now. I will revert the wiring at the new fuel pump relay and jumper blue/red and red/white as described in the instructions. I've had those instructions from the beginning, but my incorrect understanding of what red/white does is the fundamental cause of all of my wasted time. Also also in this thread (shameless teaser) Planning to have tow vehicle news to report soon. |
Wiring has been reverted to as it came. Instructions have been followed. When I manually ground the blue/red wire, the pump spins up. So far however jumpering red/white and blue/red does not spin the pump up at key on.
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You don't have your priming pulse width set to zero do you?
Have not looked at your tune, just a guess. The pump will not come until cranking if prime is set to zero. |
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1537957)
Wiring has been reverted to as it came. Instructions have been followed. When I manually ground the blue/red wire, the pump spins up. So far however jumpering red/white and blue/red does not spin the pump up at key on.
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Ok, will do.
For clarification purposes, nothing else on the car has been touched at all yet, this is the first thing I've done to the car and it's still the stock ECU. |
Did you, at some point, have the red/white and red/blue at the OEM relay jumped AND have the OEM relay plugged in?
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I can't see how. I didn't jump them until this past Sunday. At which point I jumped them inside the harness to OEM relay connector, which belies the possibility of it being plugged in.
I have been trying to go through the various things I did to see if I crosswired something at some point maybe, and sent voltage places it shouldn't go. I don't think that happened. Maybe. When I'm not just finishing up bullshit paperwork at 10pm I'll go run the test you propose. If that fails I'll swap ECU's, since I have the (ahem) good fortune of having both a pair of extra stock ecus and my MS3. |
It's worth plugging the MS3 in at this point just for the diagnostic capabilities.
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Ok. 80 hour weeks have impeded my progress, but I finally had time to visit the garage again today. Got the ECU swapped out for the MS3. New relay spun up the fuel pump first try. So I must have killed the stock ECU.
Once again with my car, once I did everything exactly as Andrew said to do it, everything worked fine. Moving on, I'll get the DW300 in, then get the roll bar in, then get the gauges, LC2, and associated vac lines all put in, get the top back on and I'll be in a position to change the injector sizes in my current MS3 tune and start it. This was good though, learned some things here. But I'm glad to be back into forward progress mode and not wtf is happening debug mode. Also, I thought this was interesting: My car is most definitely an '01, but the ecu has a 2005 sticker on it: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70bdb392b4.png https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e5c7e0f715.png |
:likecat:
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Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1541207)
Also, I thought this was interesting: My car is most definitely an '01, but the ecu has a 2005 sticker on it:
Has the car been inundated? Especially salt water? Vandalised, or otherwise molested? How did the floor look when you took the ECU out? And how did it ever start without the ECU/immobiliser handshake (AFAIK this cannot be re-programmed?)? I realise this is a new car to you, and the above questions may be unanswerable, but that date mismatch would worry me ... |
NB ECU isn't on the floor, so he wouldn't know. It's most likely an early VVT recall which involved replacing the ECU at the dealer, who can reprogram the immobilizer, just not anymore AFAIK. Or it's stupid expensive, one of the two. Rumor is the ECU fix did nothing, we have a fix at our shop involving retarding the pickup wheel on the intake cam for over advanced codes. Regardless, an MS will solve any of those issues.
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Live a little, learn a little! Never heard of VVT/ECU replacements (or maybe I've just forgotten), never knew dealers could reprogram the immobiliser ... I know the NB ECU is not literally on the floor, but a bad case of blocked drains will flood the floor in the worst case, wetting the connector at least.
Regardless, you are probably right. :likecat: |
Gee Emm, the LHD NBs have the ECU in a different place than us RHD'ers. Their's is mounted up under the dash next to the steering column. The car would have to be submerged for it to get wet.
For any that don't know, the RHD NB ECU is located under a kick panel, against the firewall in the passenger foot well, where it could conceivably get wet in the way Gee Emm describes. I think some LHD NAs had their's in a similar spot? |
Well there you go, the learning never stops! Thanks ML!!
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Yes, the best Miatas Mazda ever made, in '92 and '93 had it there. So did the 90-91s, but they weren't the best Miatas Mazda ever made.
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Great job on garage!
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Originally Posted by IanIsInTheGarage
(Post 1541764)
Great job on garage!
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Progress. Started the car today, drove it out to the street, turned it around, and back into the garage. This was significant and necessary because my driveway has a slope. I pulled the car in facing out to put in the rollbar. It needs to be facing in to swap the engine. If I had 6 guys, I could do it with people power. I'm sure I could have hired some of my installers for a few hours, but still. Maybe next time I will.
Thinking of keeping my current vac line routing for the MS3 permanently. What could possibly go wrong? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b5a2467f.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dfdc035163.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bb7bd25c5.jpg The "BEFORE" pic: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a962a3930f.jpg |
So you people probably want updates. Because that is what the internet is for, free entertainment for you.
I haz updates! Before the pics, a status update on my attendance at 2019 MWLS. I will be there, with or without my car, unless work. I am still currently working 70-80 hour weeks. My ability to attend just depends ... I am currently the only sales guy (normally 3). The owner has been offline for about a month due to his mother dying. Which is all the sad things, condolences have been expressed, cards written, etc. It was not exactly unexpected but there's never a good time to have a parent die. The point being there's been literally no backup for me so I've been taking everything to try to keep the install crews working as much as possible. For those that don't know, I'm in HVAC now. I have the best job title in the world: "Comfort Consultant." "Are you truly comfortable in your home? Do you have areas that run hot or run cold, that you wish to fix? Do you have areas in which your spouse is too hot, or more importantly, too cold, and you'd like to resolve that? I can help you!" The owner's back now. Our other sales guy may or may not be back, we'll see. He had the misfortune of being sideswiped as he sat there parked. He was waiting for the proper time to roll around for him to roll up to his appointment, minding his own business, and blam he gets sideswiped. Not a lot of damage to the car but he's had previous injuries and the whiplash factor has laid him out. He's originally from the Boston area, so of course he's a Patriots fan. I signed his get well soon card last week "Patriots looked strong, defying age, at least somebody from New England's not a pussy!" That's the nature of our office, good natured ribbing, I hope he's back soon. I have massaged paperwork procedures to take a lot of the pain out of it compared to before, but covering all our calls is still a load. Anyway. Updates! I can report that my moneys spent on structural engineering were well spent. Not even a creak. Garage said BRING IT, and when the miata started to lift off the stands because of some reason or other that is unimportant, garage was ready for more. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oQ...w=w744-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_Z...A=w744-h992-no [img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZK...A=w744-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i0...g=w744-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h4...g=w744-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/At...=w1323-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ga...g=w744-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mj...=w1323-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V6...=w1323-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7C...g=w744-h992-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aJ...A=w744-h992-no My car placement was spot on. Any closer to the front and the engine would not have cleared the workbench and front of the car coming up. So. I have a 101k unopened completely stock unopened vvt engine, and 6 speed, available. Anybody interested let me know. Engine was completely fine stock, no smoke on decel, no complaints on revving. Previous owner put the Motorcraft in the transmission and Mobil1 in the engine. Also: The TRULY observant amongst you will notice a difference in the hoist. |
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