Buttoned up the roll bar install this morning and put the interior back together. Feels good to finally have that in!

Started taking out my FM 2.5 suspension, only have one corner left. I was delayed due to some additional issues with my new-to-me Xidas. The other three shocks I was unable to loosen the spring perch locking screw, even after soaking with penetrating oil. Turned two 2.5mm hex keys into pretzels. Have some more robust tools on the way, but won't be here until Saturday.

The one shock I managed to take apart and put back together is still giving me trouble. I was able to clean up the threads enough that the unloaded perch could move up and down the body without too much force, but when the whole assembly is put together it gets stuck pretty good. Using the 6mm hex key for an adjustment tool doesn't seem to give me enough leverage to break through the trouble spot. Installed that one anyway, hopefully Curly has better luck. I'm starting to regret going used as opposed to springing for a new set. :facepalm:

We have these for our MCS. Hardened tips give you decent leverage but also prevent over torquing something that's not supposed to get too tight. Proper spanner wrenches still allow more torque.

http://s228.photobucket.com/user/luc...ndgvr.jpg.html

Socket hex keys and hand impact tool arrived today. Still couldn't get the perch set screw loose. They aren't stripped per se, but there is definitely some tolerance differences that are working against me now.

How boned am I?

Andrew says the motor should be shipping out May 5th. Converting TSE time to actual time means I should have it back soon after my toddler graduates high school.







(Just giving you a hard time!):party:

HANS and firesuit on order?

You betcha!

Also ripping out the roll bar I just installed and going to weld in a cage. Can't be too careful for that run on the 21st, sounds like a widow-maker.

Wow, talk about quick turn-around. Are you reselling the GT3? It may be difficult given your color choice!

Its a bit of a joke regarding some Facebook trolling. Local group doing a run in a few weeks, and kinda made it sound like we'd be courting death.

Of the tree perch set screws that were giving me trouble, I think that two of perches will be fine with the new screws I ordered. However, one is properly fucked. I have the screw out, but the threads in the perch are good and mangled. Trying to decide what to do. Listed in order of cost.

1. Order a new perch
2. Get a bottoming tap an hope to clean up the threads
3. Reuse perch as is with no set screw

Damn it, I was hoping to get everything wrapped up today!

Definitely not #3.

#2 confuses me, is the perch not off the shock yet? Should be able to ram a tap through the entire perch without requiring a bottoming tap...

Perch is off the shock, but the hole is not threaded all the way through. It necks down to the diameter of a little rubber plunger, which is the part you weren't able to fish out when I swung by on Wednesday.

Now that I see how the perch is set up, the screws I ordered from McMaster-Carr may not actually work. Might end up needing three new perches at $45 a pop. So help me God I am not buying another used part for the rest of my life, this is frustrating.

It was as I feared, screws are a no-go. Three new perches en route. I'll get this suspension on eventually...

Hopefully after the torrington bearings and perches it's still a good deal?

Well, still less than new at least (even after my presumptive Club Orange discount). With perfect foresight I would have either just bought new to save the time/frustration or negotiated a lower price. Oh well.

By the way, that MCS adjuster tool is great. Thanks to you and Martin for giving me one!

Wheels finally back on the ground!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6eaa9fda69.jpgCould use a bath.
Kid tested, father approved!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d7d212bd2.jpg

Hmm, you could get a 2 post in there fairly easily...

Yeah, for now. Long term we are thinking of turning the wasted vertical space into another room. Wouldn't have the space then.

Wife is already annoyed with how much time I've been spending in the garage, so I don't think a lift will be in the cards.

Block should be heading back tomorrow! So ready to have my car back.

What about one of those scissor jack lift things?

Car is getting picked up tomorrow morning to head back to the shop and get the motor installed. Then break-in, tuning, and hopefully have it all done in time for my trip to NorCal the end of this month!

Hopefully we don't accidentally install the S54 or SC 2ZZ sitting next to the TSE box.

Can't wait for that TSE motor to stop the smoking!

Truth be told I hadn't touched anything until this morning. After finishing a '99 engine install and torquing the head down on a 2ZZ, I was finally given time to move on to Don's engine. Here's it's current state:

Attachment 180758

Horrible picture, but the shop was getting shut down for the weekend and I was ready to check out after a busy week!

Unfortunately, one of the last pieces missing is the S2 TB, which hit a bit of a snag:

Attachment 180759

Had I known the NA8 S2 used a TPS spacer, I would have warned Don as it's already a minor interference fit with a stock NA8 TB/TPS on a NB head. Monday I'll dig through my parts stash for an NB TPS and try that. Anybody know if an NB TPS will bolt up to a NA8 S2 TB? Also, under the cover isn't even the 240S the previously mentioned 2ZZ is intended for. That's sitting above Don's pictured engine. Also tucked in for the weekend is a 350Z race car, 599GTB, S62 swapped E46 M3 race car, a PRO3 (E30) race car, and a "retired" T25 E46 enduro car recently brought up to the NW from California. It's never a boring day at AR Auto Service.

Hopefully Don's engine will be installed and running on Monday, S2 TB be damned!

P.S. Don your alignment is a bit off.

It should bolt on just fine. I believe there are 2 sets of holes for that reason. Either way the only difference between NA and NB is the IAC adapter plate

Yeah, after replacing the tie rods and all the alignment bolts I just eyeballed it. Was good enough to roll it on to the trailer, so I consider that a win.

​​​​​I may have a NB TPS in my garage, but I won't be back until Tuesday.
​​​​​

Oh I know, the alignment bit was a joke.

I'm fairly certain I have a NB TPS as well, I'll get it on there Monday. Hopefully I'll get the time to get it running then too.

So over the last few days I've had a lot of time to finish up the car. Started this morning ready to start, however since TSE's instructions specifically say to go for a 50 mile drive within 60 seconds of starting the engine for the first time, I had my work cut out for me. Me and a few co workers pushed it around the building to the alignment rack, where I corner balanced and aligned it. Here it is untouched, to show "empty" weight. Has about 5/8th of a tank in it:

Attachment 180739

Here it is balasted and corner weighted.

Attachment 180740

And the cross weights, it's within 7 lbs.

Attachment 180741

I don't have a picture of the alignment sheet, but although we started at over 3.5 degrees of front camber, we ended with 2.5f/2r, 0 toe up front, and .08 rear per side. 4.5* caster was the best we could do in that regard.

Then we went for our 50 mile drive. 15 miles of lots of engine breaking and full throttle below 4000rpms, followed by 15 miles of the same but up to 5000rpms, then another 20 up to 6000rpms, with a little more normal driving in the last 10 miles. Now for the good news, no smoking! Very happy for Don, setup feels very crisp, peppy, and dialed. It's been quite the transformation, since he's last driven it: FM clutch, BW drop mounts, 3.9 torsen, 6-speed, MMR shifter, TSE engine, 949 head, RB header, CSTG intake, MS3, Xidas, and a roll bar. Can't wait for you to try it out Don!

Check out that trip meter, took us on an almost perfect 50 mile loop!

Attachment 180742

Put in the preferred Rotella...

Attachment 180743

And re-attached the oil cooler. Only had 4qts of amsoil breakin oil from TSE, so I decided to disconnect the oil cooler for the initial break in. Took some pictures of the three mounts I made. Upper left is off the bracket that came with the cooler, lower left is an extension off that bracket, and the lower right is a piece of angle iron cut, drilled, and tapped for the third and final mount. Kind of looks like it's floating from the top as there's only one mount up there, but it's rock solid.

Attachment 180744
Attachment 180745
Attachment 180746

For now we're waiting on the NB TPS and pigtail to install and wire in the S2 TB, then it's dyno time!

Thanks for the pics Josh! I'm excited to drive it again. Somehow my Honda Fit just isn't the same, even if it is a manual.

I'm pleased with that caster number, I had been driving with 5* (as per the FM alignment). Do you happen to remember the ending ride height?

Placed the order for the TPS pigtail this morning, haven't received a shipping notification yet. Hopefully you can figure out what's going on with the CAN module, having the OBDII plug is nice for monitoring when I don't have the laptop. Like I said in the other thread I sent the .msq for my old tune to Martin earlier this evening, comparing settings might help?

Ended up at 4.75" all around. I guess I left out the one bit of bad news. The LR, (only collar you didn't replace) is frozen. I got one turn out of it but it wouldn't go any further. I set ride height on the RR to match, and started lowering the front. I got it at about a 1/8" rake, but if I went for the full 1/2" suggested rake the front was just going to be dumped. As is it looks visually correct and drives amazing, so it worked out. Project for another day!

I'm looking at your TS settings now, unfortunately comparing tunes doesn't compare project properties, although that should only be the CAN ID, which rev says needs to be 9.

Guess it is what it is, no worries. When/if I get around to replacing the control arm bushings I'll get a new perch. Rake sounds fine to me, not sure where the .5" suggestion came from anyway as the 949 dual-duty alignment calls for .06-.18. 1/8" is .125", smack dab in the middle.

I should have some time to get my copy of TS working again tonight, let me know if there is anything I can look up that could be helpful for you. As soon as I have tracking on the pigtail I'll forward it on to Martin.

Yay, got the CAN module working! Biggest different I saw was the protocol difference, REQ/RSP instead of CMD. That and I properly selected CAN ID 9 from the drop down list in the project properties. Whatever, it works!

Anybody know what resistor Rev uses for his 0-5v analog input pullups? I've got this sheet from AEM for the oil temperature sensor I'm using:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5313585e3f.jpg


However the 0-5v values are specifically for a 2k2 ohm resistor, and when I plug it into the MS I'm reading about half of what I should be, according to my multimeter ohm reading and the above chart.

Secondly, does anybody know how to convert the above chart to one I can actually use once I have the correct resistor value? TIA.

Probably a 2.49k resistor. Thats what the GM temp sensors use.

Its just a voltage divider

Voltage Divider Calculator

In this case Vs is 5v (or it should be), R2 is the temp sensor, R1 is the pullup.

Thats definitely not linear so you might have an issue. I'm not sure if MS can handle custom curves.

I wonder if thats just a GM temperature curve.

Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) ? Adding an NTC oil temperature sensor to MS3pro (View topic)

Some possible options there. But the GM sensor is the way to go IMO. I thought I had linked it to you but the message may not have sent.

Ok there is definitely a way to do this.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0d907628c.png

Ok figured it out. And its super annoying.

You can use a custom .inc file that contains the curve that you need. But building it by hand is going to suck. And I can't find the program that someone used to make them originally.

Looks like this:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1fe99f1182.png

And because all AEM does is rebrand sensors and sell them for TEXA$ they managed to pick a GM sensor, but use a different curve than the standard GM sensor.

That sounds like lots of fun.

For future reference: Airtex/Wells 1H9. Its a 1/8 NPT Sensor, with a standard GM curve. The pigtails are not nearly as nice as the AEM sensor, but they are usable.

If you do end up generating a custom inc file then post it up. Its all simple math. Just annoying.

Damn, well now I understand why that's so important. I'll do a linear best fit line for now, and look into the custom .ini curve later. Looks like I'm getting around -85 for 5 volts and 350 for 0 volts. I'll give it a shot tomorrow when I solder everything permanently.

If I remember I'll try and put something together at work tomorrow. It's been slow

For those following on along at home

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...5/#post1423004

One of the first things I should do when I get the car back is install padding on the roll bar, but I won't have time to (get my wife to make) a proper cover for it any time soon. I understand that the padding degrades rather quickly in the sun so I will need a temporary solution. I saw somebody on CR say they used Rescue Tape, but doing rough math I would need quite a bit of it to fully over the padding. Any other suggestions?

If you don't care about looks just pick up some fabric that can withstand the elements and ziptie it into place. Did that on my old SE until I stop procrastinating an bought the HD cover that fit the roll bar.

Went out for my first real drive of the year, just got back. Motor is just 350 miles old, but already have some initial impressions:

1). TORQUE! Of course, this is relative to my tired old BP but nice nonetheless. Car hasn't even been dyno tuned yet (happening on Monday) and is running pretty conservative timing, but I'm already impressed.

2). VIBRATION! Coming from my (torn) stock motor mounts, the BBFW "Low NVH" mounts are considerably more...communicative. Not unbearable by any means, but not what I'd want on a daily. Particularly noticeable at idle. Moti has mentioned they take time to break in, and they have seemed to get a little better.

3). RIDE QUALITY! Will be evaluating handling at the autocross tomorrow, but I can say that the Xidas ride better than anything with 700 lb. springs has I right to. Stiffer than the FM/Tokico setup I had before, but no more harsh. Would daily (if I would daily a Miata). The road was pretty rough, some parts were like driving on the moon, but they soaked everything up well. Never bottomed from what I could tell.

I'm excited for the autocross tomorrow. There I'll get to see the real payoff of the Xidas and the Torsen.

No real excitement at the autocross, but was pretty pleased with my times. Definitely need to get used to the new suspension and when to adjust the damping. I kept it on settings I was using on the street (4 clicks front, 3 rear). On my last run I bumped the damping up 3 clicks all around, and despite heat-soaked everything and a boiling hot surface put down my best time. Seems to tend towards understeer. Generally neutral, but I was unable to get any oversteer at the event.

Dyno tuning is today, excited to see the numbers!

Results were...unsurprising. And a little unimpressive. But a turbo build that's run N/A shouldn't be impressive.

intake is a compromise because of turbo plans, and it's a low comp (8.5?) build. Cobra head intake and $1500 in cams, SUBs, and springs would bring it around 165 from previous experience.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d9321e83b2.jpg

Wow mobile and this shitty image uploaded does not work.

Yeah, too bad we couldn't get the intake to work out easily. Was hoping for more, but like you mentioned this wasn't built with N/A power in mind. Still way better than the old motor, should be bulletproof on the track, and ready for EFR glory.

Now to get some track experience under my belt!

EDIT: Nial also has high-comp pistons.

In before thread title change to: Most expensive 140whp build ever.

Maybe fixed?

It's not upside-down so it's not from Australia

I'm guessing Hawaii?

Lol, love it!

EDIT: Signature corrected for truth.

Officially registered for the BMW day on August 3rd! Going to have at least one more autocross event under my belt before hand, but the handling is still going to be pretty new for me.

FTFY

Well yeah, stock for an NB2. 10:1 vs. my 8.6:1.

Well, remember Don could have bought the high comp motor ($0), tomei cams ($1500), cut his hood up for the cobra head, and upgraded to the ST valve springs ($300), and then he'd be maxed at about 160hp at 7000rpm, and maybe 170 by 8000.

Edit: don't forget the $400 square top.

or he could save that ~$2000 (and keep the low comp) and put it towards a turbo kit, and max the trans at like 400hp.

No regrets.

And the head should have Supertech light doubles. Ready for all the revs and/or all the boost.

Thanks again for all the work you did!

Well, I've had some time to get to know the car a little better after it's transformation. But first, some autocross pics!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17949f10c7.jpgAlmost killing a cone.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17c3bfbe6f.jpgSPEED!
Overall I was okay with my performance. Was 11th in raw time in a field of 40, and down about 10 horsepower from the final dyno tune.

More importantly I took the car on a 1,600 mile roadtrip with my wife riding passenger. While I wasn't necessarily concerned about my car mechanically, I was a little worried about how my wife would take the changes. Other than the NB2 seats, nothing done increased comfort. Turns out her only complaint was the increase in interior rattles at idle and low engine speeds (which I'll admit were annoying me too). However, they were significantly better by the end of the trip. Guess the mounts do break in! Still have some rattle chasing to do though, probably going to wait until the driving season is over for that.

Our trip took us down the coast. Weather was pretty decent, partly cloudy and 60s. Perfect top-down weather as far as I'm concerned.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...90018c9309.jpgJust south of Gold Beach, OR.
Spent the night in Eureka, and the next morning headed out to the Avenue of the Giants. My wife had never seen the Redwoods, and this was the main motivation for the trip. Just can't get over how big those trees are!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3d01f5f7ce.jpgIn Humbolt State Park.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c55c95228.jpgBig trees!
Surprisingly there were no complaints about suspension, which basically confirms that Xidas are magic. One change that was definitely felt was the increase in power. I could pass people! This was especially helpful on Highway 3, going from Hwy 36 to 299 (and into Redding). This little stretch of road is Miata heaven, and I could have driven back and forth all day. Unfortunately my wife got a little car sick, so no more fun for me.

Now that I've changed the oil and filter, it's going to basically be maintenance items only for a couple years. The only "modification" I have left to do is to put a real oil pressure sender and guage in from an earlier car. Have all the parts, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Wow, those trees are enormous! Seeing one in person is definitely on my bucket list. Car looks great, too and I'm sure it is a blast even without allofit power.

Just out of curiosity, did you ever sit for the CPA exam?

So far I've only sat for one of the four sections. Results are still a couple weeks out. Taking the next one at the end of August. Depending on how I do on the first test I may try to take the last two sections within the same testing window just to get it over with.

So my AEM EUGO is stuck reading 14.7, which means a dead sensor. I may have physically damaged it over a rough bit of road (there were sparks!). Because the AEM can't be free-air calibrated do I need to get the AEM specific replacement sensor, or can I just get the normal Bosch LSU 4.9? Price difference is a little over $30, which isn't a lot in the grand scheme of things, but I'd rather spend that $30 on a dinner if I can.