If you later want a usable volume of washer fluid, you could do the suzuki cappuccino bottle swap. I've had my suzuki bottle on my workbench for a decade waiting to do it.

https://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/02/...washer-bottle/

EDIT: it was only 8 years ago.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...ow-cost-87302/

Ug, I know- that would have been perfect. I set out to do this for $20.

“Add a bunch of cool sensors” they said
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33f3bed9b.jpeg
Got the Beer Money ecu on Saturday! Been working on the wiring at night after the kids go down.

Onboard wideband - done
Sequential injection - done
Flex Fuel -
Fuel rail pressure -
Canbus BMM multi display gauge -
Knock sensor -
Boost controller -

I loaded all the base settings and familiarized my self with Tuner Studio- Goodness! I have more reading to do on certain parameters and cause/effect. First time using this..

Fired up the car to check for leaks on all the new lines, injectors, and gauges. I know I need to wrap up the wiring first- as I want to enable Flex, Knock, and Rail pressure right away to get a decent starting VE and tune. Fuel will be E10 to start, and will be inputting small pulse correction as a bonus to having the absolute fuel rail sensor.

Stayed up way too late, but got everything wired in. Flex and Rail sensors working. The GM flex sensor also outputs fuel temperature and the BMM supports this - ill have to turn this on as well. Will get this bad boy off the jack stands and go drive it finally.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...86710e4e25.jpg

Started driving the car last Wednesday. Just plowing through tuning and struggling with idle, as everyone does. I entered in the low-pulse-correction data to be used with my absolute rail sensor, but wasn't happy with the VE and auto-tune runs-so for now it is just a rail gauge. Some of the Min/Max PID info in TS got changed somewhere (probably by me accidentally?) so that took a bit for Closed loop idle to behave.

All in all - it runs, and being new to all this is wild. It really is a trial-by-fire type experience. Car idled great on stock ECU - but with the BMM ecu, I ended up cracking open the Idle Screw by a 1/4 turn. Even though it was idling at 950rpm & 14-14.7, I could still hear a rich miss from the exhaust, and car would die out after 20 seconds of idle. After opening up the screw, I could hear audible vacuum from the air filter, and the idle cleared up. I reviewed the logs, and it appeared all closed loop sensors/idleVE/timing/IAC position/etc were all trying rescue it and raise rpm; it just not enough air.

Ill keep at it and improving. Wheels, tires, brakes, and suspension are next -