mlev

iTrader: (5)

And since I always had a crush on that Disney princess when I was little, I rolled with it.. Seriously, a pretty girl with a freaking TIGER as a pet.. but I digress.

I figured it was about time I start a build thread. MS is installed, FM1 clutch is broken in, and I'll be starting the turbo build this weekend.

Here's Jasmine:


She's a '99 base with A/C and P/S still in tact--and I'll likely leave it that way, for now, as I DD her most of the time in the summer.

Custom shortened and revalved bilsteins with 450/300ish springs, racing beat sway bar, harddoghardcoredoublediagonalwithharnessbar, and currently a racingbeat intake and header with flyin' miata exhaust. TR C1Ms wrapped with "pixie dust" toyos... She's fully built and prepped for STR.

The wheels got a new coat of paint last night. The PO had them black, but I think the black on green looks silly.



I have my idle locked in--still warming up in this shot, it drops down to 8-900 when she's warm



Getting my VE tables locked in as well.



I started digging around on teh interwebz regarding the spark table, and from what I'm seeing, the one that came with rev's PnP is about as conservative as they come--which I'm okay with for now. I want to tune her for 91 pump fuel, and then run 93 for safety--but in case I'm stuck somewhere with no 93 available, I don't want to be knocking around.

I talked to Stephanie at BEGi and she agreed to take a look at the table and compare it to what they include with their PnP that they sell with their kits (seeing as how I'm building this all around a BEGi-S kit)

The Build:

Currently installed:
Innovate G2 oil pressure and boost gauges (installed in A-Pillar)
Innovate MTX-L WBO2 (installed in vent ring)
FM1 Clutch with stock flywheel (Installed a few weeks ago.. ughh)
BEGi Rear Spacer coolant reroute (with the caddy hose or w/e for $16)
Reverant Built MS2E
(other parts listed above for STR class)
Nexus 7 in-dash with MSDroid and a few other goodies

Coming soon:
460cc "red tops"
BEGi-S built around GT25R with stainless lines upgrade
CX Racing Intercooler and alu pipe kit
fleabay BOV
DIY Auto Tune EBC solinoid
Planning to run 8psi

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I'm planning this to be a reliable, overbuilt, daily driveable turbo miata.. I had a stock GTI and it was a blast to drive. I think if I can put down similar power in a Miata I won't know what to do with it--plust I autocross it, so the GT2554R is going to be awesome I think.

I know the tranny and the rods and stuff all kinda start to "give up" around the 250 mark.. At 8psi with an fmic on the GT2554R I will be well beow that, right? From looking at other people's dyno charts and stuff I'm estimating between 180-190 at the wheels..

Photo dump:

Pic of the car along with a few others for weekly morning car-guy coffee-before-work get togethers:


GF helped me with the clutch install:


Tablet dash install:


Reverse glow gauges:


Jasmine and her older sister, Roxie. Roxie's gone now. Sold her to a guy a few weeks back... and now she's hellaflush. :(


Racing STR


I really miss my 6ULs.. The PO must have taken them to a dumb-dumb to get rubber mounted. There was a slow leak in two of them--looked closer and found some cracking all around the inside of the rim. :(

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Great start.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Thanks! It's been a very fun project, and I'm learning a ton.

Two years ago, I couldn't change my own oil. Then I worked on small things like an aftermarket intake, swapping out a catback, replacing swaybar end links, helped a friend swap out his diff a few months ago... Just learning as I go--shop manual, mt.n m.n and youtube. Now I've successfully swapped the clutch in a Miata on jack stands, and I'm neck deep in turbo parts. It's pretty awesome.

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Can anyone weigh on on expected numbers from this setup? does 180-190 seem about right? I saw a dyno chart from someone on the shanghai system at 9.5psi with like 205 to the wheels..

I should be well within the "safe zone" for my trans and rods etc. assuming I have a bit of mechanical sympathy right?

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

You said the turbo is a "gt25r", do you mean a 2560rs? If so, i'd say 9-10psi should get you about 200whp.

Edit: also, clean car! Great build. Stoked to see this come together.

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Being a miata, you should have named it "Governor Ratcliffe"



Otherwise, nice build.

-Zach

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

All the Jasmines that I know are *****, but yours is a good looking ****

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, I fail. Gt2554R. Their website says it's aka the gt25r but I realize now that could be perceived as a few different ones.

So, 8 psi will be more than safe. Awesome.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

on a baby 54 i'd run at least 12psi because its a teeny weeny little guy

should definitely be similar to the vw in power delivery

Jeffbucc

Nice start and clean looking car! That green really is starting to grow on me the more Miata I see with it.

Glad to see another VW owner here as well, I have a Sportwagen TDI with too much invested(ha!) in it. Love the Miata, but I will never give up 48 MPG.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Nice. Cool to see you jump right in to modding. Whenever I'm stupid and pay someone to do something for me I end up mad. For some reason I'd expect a "professional" to do a much better job than I. If it doesn't require some special skill and knowledge then there is no reason to not do it yourself!

Even if you do it once and let someone else do it later at least after you've done it you understand how everything works.

I have an A6 and I wish TDI swaps were simple motor swaps. my 19 city & 25 freeway make me sad. Financially though after selling my a6 & buying a decent tdi it would take me ~160,000 miles to break even. lol

mlev

iTrader: (5)

I've been working on my car (and friends') for a couple years now, and I've yet to complete a project where some little thing didn't go wrong. And they're not things that are my fault.

When I think about taking my car to a mechanic now, and think about how they might handle some of those things (bolts stuck, breaking off, things not lining up perfectly, etc. etc.) it makes me nauseous because I know they have no "skin in the game" when it comes to my car.

I was just reading a horror story over on m.n about a guy who paid a "professional" to install his FM1 and is having all sorts of problems now. Plus when you finish the job you just feel so _good_. Knowing that YOU did it, and that it's done RIGHT.

Idk.. As I get older and have less free time/have kids/whatever else, I'm sure I'll end up paying others to work on my car more.. but for now it's my therapy and I wouldn't give it up for anything.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Quick question on vacuum sources for MS/others. My rev built MS2E said to use the vacuum source "on the intake manifold right behind the throttle body" which I'm sure he means this one:



I currently have a vacuum line running from there, around the back along the firewall, over to a grommet on the driver's side, and then from a T fitting behind the dash to my boost gauge and my MS. But I really like the idea of a dedicated vacuum signal to my MAP..

There's another capped off vacuum source on the IM behind the TB, I'm _assuming_ it will be the same "signal", but since it's behind all the runners I'm not 100% sure. I can use this one for the ECU and the other for the boost gauge/bov, right? Or would vice versa be better?

If you guys haven't noticed I have a tendancy to overthink things... I'm famous for it in our local car club.




My toes keep bumping my MS when I brake, and the last thing I want is to rip out a wiring harness on my ECU while driving.. So I bought two DB37 extension cords and I'm relocating the ECU to the glove box. This other vacuum source would be a great location to go right through the firewall into the glove box area..

mlev

iTrader: (5)

More progress!

460cc red tops are in, and she's back up and running.

Protip: when you unscrew the gas cap, make sure you put it back before you pressurize the fuel system to check for leaks...

Out with the old, in with the new!



Wheels are done drying. I can't wait to put them on and romp around on TOYO TRACTION baby! I missed these things so much.




---

"Are you my mummy??"

Jeffbucc

For the MS2 vacuum source I T'd off the FPR vacuum line(many much smarter than us have as well) and bring that back into the cabin for the MS2. Then simply T off that line for your boost gauge if installing one.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

In for ripper vids with "A whole new world" playing in the background.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Big progress over the weekend. Coolant lines are run, manifold is on, oil feed lines are almost run, oil drain is drilled tapped and run, I lowered the radiator bracket a bit (I used the bolts from the swaybar mount--is this the way most people do it? seemed to be a pretty good spot for it) to make room for the IC pipes, found a good spot for the IC and got it mocked up--just need to get some brackets made up for it..

I'm missing a coolant fitting (M14 x 1.25 to -4an or whatever to get from the turbo to mystainless line) I have no doubt begi shipped it and I lost it in my tiny garage's clutter. Also managed to bend the 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adaptor they sent me by trying to put it in and out of the block 3 times because I'm an idiot. Man, that oil pressure sender hole is damn hard to reach with the intake manifold in the way... Also stripped out the little ALU coupler that they use for the oil feed--its a 7/16" inverted flare that goes into the turbo, and that goes to a very small -an fitting. From there, there's a coupler from the small -an to a larger -an to fit the stainless line onto. I stripped it out trying to get it tight (effing ALU).

So, I'm going to head over to a shop that makes custom brake lines after work today and see if I can get some sort of coupler, and also the M14 > AN fitting. Or whatever else they can do to help me out.

I had the bspt to npt one overnighted.

Aside from getting the intercooler physically mounted, and getting those 3 fittings, the project is done. Just need to bolt the turbo to the block and hook up all the pipes, and stick the WBO2 back in it's hole.

Getting so anxious.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Well, I stopped by our local Auto Value parts store--they have a shop in the back where they make custom brake lines and stuff.

Within 10 minutes I had all the missing fittings I needed--and he even took the oil feed fitting, brazed it closed, and then drilled out a smaller hole to work as the oil restrictor.

Total cost was $21 after tax. I'll be giving them as much business as I possibly can from now on.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

"Not another "oil restrictor" post."

BEGi sent a 7/16" inverted flare to small -an fitting (not sure on size, I think -2) and a coupler to couple that to a -4an to get to my stainless line for my oil feed.

Well, I stripped out the ALU coupler.

I visited a custom fab shop and they had a 7/16" to -4an fitting, brazed it closed, and then drilled a hole through the brazing that's 1/8" (same size as the other fitting) to act as my 'restrictor'.

Well, I'm doing some more reading and wondering if I don't want to either go back and have them re-do it and go smaller, or maybe just order a different restrictor.

I know the answer is really "it depends", and I've read the MT.N wiki that says .4-.6" is recommended for BB turbos, and I know I should be seeing 40ish psi at the turbo (how do you verify this, btw?) but just wondering what the recommendation is here...

Run it with the 1/8" "restrictor"? Have them drill it smaller (1/16? smaller still?)

EDIT: Nevermind, called BEGi and talked to stephanie for a bit.

Man, this company rocks.

mlev

iTrader: (5)

New "custom" radiator top brackets. The lower ones are dropped down and tipped back (bottom edge brought forward) by securing them to the lower bolts holding the sway bar bushing.



Wow. Much room. Very gap.



Pipes fit!

mlev

iTrader: (5)

Turbo is mounted, oil lines are hooked up, coolant lines are hooked up, downpipe is (finally) in place, just needs to be tightened. (fah there wasn't much room back there.)

BEGi sent the wrong sized exhaust clamp, they're sending another out today, but I think I'm going to get it fired up this evening in the garage--or at the very least set my cranking pulse to 1ms and prime the turbo and all that.

I just have this terrible, terrible feeling in my gut that something is going to go completely wrong and the car will be busted for a while.

Drilling the oil pan was terrifying. I drilled it out, then drained the oil, then flushed with a good amount of mineral spirits down the oil drain pipe and all that.. but I've got a buddy who had some metal wreck his engine and his horror story just keeps echoing in my head.

I literally haven't slept well in a week. So ready to be done.