It's supposed to rain today so I got up (late) and mowed the grass.

I appreciate the suggestion but I did computer repair for 10 years so I'm good there, just annoyed. The HDD had 27 bad sectors... Boot up DOS, use a nifty little program to deleted the data on the bad sectors and then disable them. Have to reinstall Windows from scratch. Hopefully it'll take win7.

Doing a double check and cleaning some stuff up I forgot to plug the vacuum line to the MS into anything. Tried to tee into the FPR but the tee is nearly the same length as the gap. Should I'd come off the port right behind the TB? I was hoping to just leave those capped.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5cac301e8d.jpg



Any other ideas? :dunno:

Why not just use longer hose on each side of the T piece?

Just an extra inch either side would make it 10000x easier.


Also rotate the T 90deg to give more room for the barbs

I got it on. I looked up some PnP kits and the tees they come with are tiny. I went up to a larger (diameter) size and then cut it down. I took about half the length off each side but being larger than it really should be I could barely get the hose on it so they are tight. They will be zip tied as well.

Its pouring rain hard now and my battery is flat (go figure) so looks like ill be waiting till tomorrow to fire it up. I'm frustrated, excited, and nervous all at the same time. I also think I take the record as the slowest wrencher ever.

Frustraion
 

I have MS in the car, all the wiring done (will need to be tidied up later).

When I turn the key 2 clicks for power TS sees it and loads up. The driver side radiator fan runs constant. I saved the current map from the PO but he ran a 1.8, 640 injectors... well, everything on his car is different from mine. So I went and got a 1.6 base map. It didnt like that. Then my battery died. Charged it up and went to sleep. Today I pulled the plug on the fan so it wouldnt run. found a different base map and got 49 errors. I decided not to load that that map either. I started going through the tune that is currently loaded (the MS's PO 1.8 tune) and I dont think I know enough to change every setting to get it right. Then the battery died again after maybe 30 mins. Its currently charging now (think i need a new bat). Im going to keep looking for another base map but it appears its a firmware issue (i think). it looks like im on 3.3.2 and all the maps are for 3.3.1 (again, i think). Off to a great start....



(screen shots)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d40bf6814.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8221ae19e5.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d75000438f.png


The MS is a DIY kit that I bought already assembled from a user here that was upgrading to MS3. I'll throw the tune that came loaded on it here as well because why not.



EDIT - Did some more reading, I think I'm going to load the base map with errors and go through calibrating/setting up the sensors.

looks like ffun.
i'll be going speediuno soon. gotta see if my old laptop can handle TS as well.

I ended up loading a base map from trubokitty. It loaded with only 15 errors but I got an error about conflicting ports.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3e507ece9d.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3a073ef0f4.png


I had problems with the tach, afr, temp sensors, and tps not reading right at all. I started a new project and reloaded the trubokitty base map and all seems well. I ended up disabling AC idle up and all of the extra programmable ports. All of the dash gauges look right, tps was working so I hit crank.... and the battery isnt strong enough to turn it over. Its charging.... again...

Ima throw this "tune" on here as well. I set the required fuel, disabled programable outputs, disabled AC idle up, calibrated the TPS and IAT sensor... thats all i changed. does it look "ok" for a starting tune?

Soooooooo

Ugh this:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7eb38b2c7a.jpg


I had very little knowledge of what I was doing, now I have zero. I can't find this exact daughter board online. The MS2 has been in my closet for nearly a year so forgot about it having none standard outputs. The case is labeled with them but I didn't grab a picture. The labels all reference internal connections so I have no idea where to wire the spark and injectors from. I need to figure that out asap. Also, I'm thinking I might as well go with Toyota COPs since it's set up for it... Will post more pics of the MS tonight

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a83ef62e6e.jpg


This is on the MS unit itself... Ive done some searching but I dont see a corrolation between these labels and the db15 coming off the daughter board

Im so frustrated that this is what is holding me up...

Ok so I found this: MS1/Extra Ignition Hardware Manual

This seems to be what I needed. I'm pretty sure I saw a test feature so I'll check the pin outs before I start modifying the harness.

If I use batch fire, wouldn't i need to run the two spark wires to the db15 connector? I would think if each spark out can drive a coil per cylinder then they can drive a coil/2 cylinder as well but I'm not sure. Or I guess wire spark A/B to cyl 1/3 and spark C/D to 2/4 (something like that). I'm not sure...

I found an electronic parts store that had the DB15 connector and housing (an hour's drive one way) so I can test the outputs and splice into my harness. The guy charged $2 for both, said he probably had them in his store longer than I've been alive...

Maybe so.

I cannot find this window in tunerstudio:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e291c763d6.png


I think thats all im missing to get this thing firing. The search terms im using to find this I think are too vague... does anyone know where this setting can be found?

please? :sadwavey:

I haven't had much time to fiddle with this... I'm quitting my current job and getting back on the truck as an OTR driver. Money has gotten tight with the wife not working and having the baby. I have two weeks left here. Running or not the Miata will be towed and stored for a couple of months. I would really like it to see boost before then but I doubt that will happen.

I have reached out to a few forum members and no one has replied. I'm going scour over the settings again to see if I can find where to configure MS for spark/fuel outs. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.

People dont like to answer PM'S about ECU, because it's a super time consuming process even more so with a diy kit.


My suggestion, you probably dont want to hear, but....buy a new unit from a reputable shop. TSE, SuperMiata etc... it costs money, but how much do you value your time and sanity?

I can't help with the window in TS, because i'm on speeduino.

Are you on stock coils right now or on COP's?
Spark outputs for wasted spark need to be on cylinder 1/4 and 2/3, not 1/3 and 2/4!

I do not have to money to purchase a new unit. I'd love a ms3 pro pnp but its not in the cards.

On stock coils right now. Thanks for the info ^_^

I've had zero time. The car is currently stored in MS and hasn't had much done to it.

We hit some big time money issues when the hospital hit us up for another $6k in medical bills with no warning and insurance won't touch it because of how much time has passed (we have different insurance now). SOOO, despite my bold claims before, I am back to driving trucks OTR again. :facepalm:

Being home 4 days a month is killing me BUT, going from less than $500 a week take home to $1200+ a week I'm hoping to quit in December. Oh, and I get to see at least one Miata now daily (spotted an orange NA in Virginia with a silver top the other day).

Any who... I contacted the PO of the MS2 and he has been a great help. Said contact him when ever I need too. Solid guy. I think I'm going to just go COP like he did and go sequential. It will be nearly the same amount of work as getting the stock system going. I know LS coils are better but the Toyota COPs are cheaper and definitely will be Overkill for what I want. I just need to find info for wiring them specifically for the 1.6.

I also towed the car ~500mi on a dolly with nothing disconnected. There is a lot of talk on whether this is bad or not but it came down to 1) I had very little time do to our last minute decision to move and 2) a large amount of people tow Miatas behind RVs with all four wheels on the ground with no problems. Apparently, on RV forums, the Miata is the dingy of choice, second only to Jeep Wranglers and 3) it has nearly 300k miles on it and I'm sure none of them were easy... What's a little more wear? We'll see if there was any damage when I get it running I guess.


For the next few months I'm basically stuck with jelly lurking and shit posting... I'm taking two weeks off (paid) in November though (my boys first birthday) and maybe I can get it moving under it's own power again then.

Tentative Miata plans for the remaining of 2019:

1) buy COP kit/diy
2) get car running on MS
3) star 2020 with at least $5k in savings after paying off debt

Long term plans:
1) turbo'ed reliable enough to DD
2) paint and new weather seals
3) better seats/lower seats
4) new wheels/tires (225 or 245 maybe)
5) real roll bar
6) shit talk mustang owners


/Depressed

Dollying with a manual miata posses almost no risks (as long as it is out of, and remains out of gear).

I figured as much... Really weird not being able to see it in the mirrors though lol. It was behind the 26' (or whatever the largest size is) uhaul and the only way I knew it was still there was it's shadow :laugh:

A year later and still not running. Got the car towed ~650mi, started moving into the new house... and began looking for and changing jobs. Working two jobs sometimes and struggling to pay bills. Car has been sitting the the garage, top up for the whole time. I have a job now that involves travel and I sometimes put 1000 miles a week on my other car. I'd rather be putting them on the miata but this MS install is whats holding me up. I just need this installed to get the car back up and running (and a fluid and fuel change now too).

I have pretty much forgot all that a knew about MS and that wasnt much. I did though, make a "bench test" for it by hacking up a random 12v DC charger for something. I got on today and was able to connect the MS2 to the laptop with it.

Im still in the same boat I was though. I need to find out which pins relate to my injector and spark outputs. I updated TurnerStudio and found the injector and spark test modes I was looking for before. Can i just run the test mode and use a multimeter to check the pins? I took some screen shots, not sure if they help or not, of what I rummaged through today in TS. Please offer your guidance oh wisemen of MT.net :bowdown:






https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b76df77653.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9803c88a18.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69e94c5bc6.png
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c3d2c140a6.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...812cba3e10.png


the current tune is the tune I was sent that the MS's PO was using. He was running sequential fuel and spark. I would like to run batch fuel and spark for the time being just to get it up and running again. Also note he had a 1.8, aftermarket injectors and of course coils. I have a 1.6 and stock ign/inj with ls coils and rx7 injectors ready to go in (after i get running on the stock stuff). I need to make sure the settings are right and find out which physical pins are for what. Not pictured is a a db15 connector on the MS unit its self. I am assuming that is for the drivers and so on that im looking for. What. Me. Do.


edit - i *think* i added the correct tune file that I have show in the screen shots...