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Getting closer to a stable idle with the help of Griff. Car is still throwing a MAF sensor code and I've got a new one on the way. I think this one might be bad since it was near where the camaro got hit. I have an AEM X wideband on the way to start tuning next week.
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Got the AEM wideband installed. The AEM X series wideband gauge is pretty cool as it lets you pull the data over the obdii port directly into hp tuners without having to upgrade hptuners to the pro version.
Going to start tuning this weekend. Still need to clean up the chassis harness and get the tunnel back on, then it should be ready for a test drive. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...049526940c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...37d45047c7.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e22e36c393.jpg . |
Looking back at my error codes...
0x7E8: P0097 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 2 Circuit Low I can't find anything about IAT2. Is this even being used? I am pretty sure IAT1 is on the MAF. Where is IAT2? |
I'm not 100% sure where the sensors are that gather the info but I have an ambient and Intake air temp that is logged.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...35b94d0aa8.jpg I am also logging both with no errors thrown. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...93e4e1a931.jpg I will do a bit of digging today to see if I can find out where the sensors are at. |
Cool, thanks Griff! I tried searching and I can't figure out where IAT2 gets logged from on the LFX. I replaced the MAF sensor and it didn't fix it, so assuming it is somewhere else.
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Found this on a forum in regards to the C7 corvette.
"IAT2 is the true manifold temp. IAT1 is in the MAF. 'Manifold air temp' is a calculated air temp that references IAT1,IAT2 and Ambient air temp." I wonder if IAT2 is logged from the map sensor on top of the intake manifold. Going to test it this morning. |
Posting this up in case anyone needs it. Great reference!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6b1a47be82.jpg |
My fuel pressure sensor is going in and out as well. Not throwing a code, but just doesn't read properly sometimes in HPTuners. Pretty sure all of the sensors I'm having issues with (intake cam solenoid, IAT2 and FP) are 5v reference. Guess it's time to bust out the multimeter.
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Be aware that GM sometimes uses simulated sensor data - for example, there is no "oil temperature" sensor in the engine. But they offer a six-pack gauge cluster that displays oil temp. That oil temp is based upon a model that the coolant, RPM, and oil pressure are as inputs. I can't imagine what good IAT2 would be use for (well, maybe the battery module). I'll look through my our tune and see if we have it turned off - but I have a feeling that the ambient temp might be taken from the body control module in order to display outside temperatures on the A/C.
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Originally Posted by gooflophaze
(Post 1548155)
Be aware that GM sometimes uses simulated sensor data - for example, there is no "oil temperature" sensor in the engine. But they offer a six-pack gauge cluster that displays oil temp. That oil temp is based upon a model that the coolant, RPM, and oil pressure are as inputs. I can't imagine what good IAT2 would be use for (well, maybe the battery module). I'll look through my our tune and see if we have it turned off - but I have a feeling that the ambient temp might be taken from the body control module in order to display outside temperatures on the A/C.
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Just saw a confirmation that ambient temp indeed has nothing to do with the ecu or how the car runs, it is just simply displayed for the ac. My error codes are all clear now except for the eprom one. Ran the car on jack stands for 15 minutes and gave it a little throttle. Griff has been kind enough to give me advice on where to get started with HP Tuners. So far his recommendation of Goat Rope Garage on Youtube has been very helpful. He has a whole series on tuning Gen 4 GM engines. Car is ready to go for tuning tomorrow.
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With Griff's guidance in HP Tuners, I now have a healthy idle. We tried going down the speed density tuning path first and the car just wouldn't play friendly. So MAF tuning it is and the car loved it. With all the intake mods this car has (3.5" MAF pipe, 3.5" full intake, jacfab spacer, 80mm overkill throttle body and jacfab ported intake manifold), it has been interesting. Need to clean up some wiring, remount the ecu with heat shielding and bleed the brakes, and then she should be ready to drive.
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Got the car off of the jack stands for the first time in 6 months, and then immediately ran into some issues.
Coolant leak sprung up at the top radiator hose clamp. No biggie, just needed to tighten it down some more. Had an exhaust leak at both vbands from the down pipes. Not sure what the hell the deal is as I got these pretty spot on. Ended up using some turbo downpipe metal/graphite gaskets for an exhaust with the same 2.5" ID. Cut them to fit within the vbands and now no more leaks. Used these: After letting the car idle for 15 min and seeing it hit 220 degrees with the fan on, I realized that the fan I'm using (Spal 30100467) will not cut it. Upgrading to a Spal 30102038. Same diameter, but a couple inches deeper and pulls about 600cfm more air. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d87e86491.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...726cd2b977.jpg |
Stock low fan turn on temp is 220… these engines like to run warm. Hi is 224 if I remember. Remember the engine is reverse flow as well.
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Holy shit. The oem fans don't even come on until 220?!?! Should 220 be my fan turn on temp, that just seems really high to me. I'm using a derale controller, so it is set independently.
What is considered over heating in these motors temp wise? As in, what temp should an alert come on? |
I'll have to double check the tune,. It frightened me the first time we ran ours as well. We ran eBay fans on a godspeed rad and it worked fine, just upgraded to spal for exxxtra a/c condenser flow.
Just as a point of reference since I monitor my temps in my LS3 - it hits 224 sitting at a stoplight on a hot Atlanta day, cruises at 206 after I got my ducting halfway sorted, and I saw a high of 228 in a spirited run on the dragon. The temps are higher than expected but pretty tightly controlled. |
Originally Posted by LukeG
(Post 1548933)
Holy shit. The oem fans don't even come on until 220?!?! Should 220 be my fan turn on temp, that just seems really high to me. I'm using a derale controller, so it is set independently.
What is considered over heating in these motors temp wise? As in, what temp should an alert come on? You can imagine my surprise last January as I was driving through Indiana in well below freezing-temps, with my then new-to-me '13 135i, as I watched the oil temp creep past 240. Pulled over and searched. Turns out the thermostat on the factory cooler doesn't even open until that point. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1549129)
The hotter they run, the more efficient they are.
You can imagine my surprise last January as I was driving through Indiana in well below freezing-temps, with my then new-to-me '13 135i, as I watched the oil temp creep past 240. Pulled over and searched. Turns out the thermostat on the factory cooler doesn't even open until that point. |
Originally Posted by LukeG
(Post 1549162)
Wow, haha. I definitely would have pulled over too. I guess I'm old school. I always thought if I see a car go over 220 it is because something is wrong.
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Anyone installed the V8R carbon fiber intake manifold cover? It looks like I need to cut some of the pieces off of the intake manifold for it to fit, but wanted to confirm exactly how deep and where before I start hacking it up. Also, does it just press fit on or do I need to double side tape it? On a side note, the V8R carbon cover is gorgeous!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d88e5b479d.jpg |
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