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NB Exocet Seeking LFX Glory... Valhalla!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc1335ee8e.jpg
Bought this car complete in late 2016 and have replaced damn near everything on it because I am OCD and wanted a few upgrades. It used a 1999 NB as the base with an FMII turbo kit and last dyno it put down 255whp. The car is an absolute beast and the funnest thing I have ever driven. You basically point it and pull the trigger like a gun. I love the car but I am ready to go back to an ultra reliable naturally aspirated motor so I can beat on it without worry. I don't trust the turbo BP for a track motor after seeing the amount of work many people put in to make them reliable on track. Thankfully Ryan (ThePass) has done a lot of the R&D on the LFX swap and reaching the potential of it in a miata chassis on a track. Goal is an ultra reliable 300whp on E85 and then drive the hell out of it. Just tracked down a super low mile (18k) MV7 Cadillac 6-speed transmission. These things are a bit rare because most Cadillac owners understandably want a slush box in the base model CTS. Next I'll be sourcing a low mile 2015 Camaro LFX engine and a 3.42 Cadillac G80 LSD. And finally the V8 Roadsters LFX kit. Expect to see a part out sometime in October as I definitely want to drive the car over the summer and then work on it over the winter. Cheers and will update this as I acquire parts and make progress. |
Holy hell finding a low miles 3.42 G80 LSD is tough. The new ones apparently doubled in price due to a manufacturing supplier change making them about $1,500 now.
Good news is I found a 57k mile 3.42 LSD on ebay out of a 2006 STS for $250 shipped. The parts interchange data on the 3.42 G80 for the 2006-2009 CTS is all over the place by the way. From V8 Roadsters: We utilize the Getrag in our road course and street cars. When sourcing the Getrag look for the 2006-2008. The later models have casting and seal updates. G80 series limited slip GM part numbers: 3:23 – 25978162 3:42 – 25873500 3:73 – 25873497 3:90 – 25968531 Available in the following vehicles, RWD only (in reference to 3.23) 2005-2007 CTS Base 3.6L 2008-2009 SRX base 3.6L and 4.6L 2009 STS Base and Platinum 3.6L I think the diff from the STS can be from 2006-2009 fyi. Will be able to confirm shortly when my diff gets here on Tuesday. |
Rode in a turbo exocet a few years back and it was an absolute blast. Looking forward to your lfx powered exocet. That blows about diff prices, glad I got my 3.42 when I did.
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My track has seen a fair number of these LFX conversions spin their bearings. I think you would be well-served to plan for an Accusump.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1480586)
My track has seen a fair number of these LFX conversions spin their bearings. I think you would be well-served to plan for an Accusump.
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So here is the diff from a 2006 Cadillac STS. I can confirm this is the correct part referencing ThePass' thread here...
https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-85075/page39/ "3.42 LSD: 15793754 - superseded now by 25873500" https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e03c94a22d.jpg Getting that oem front busing out is a m@therf#cker!!! A 34mm impact socket and a 3lb sledge did the job though. Be sure to crush the lips in with a screwdriver or punch first to make it easier. I'm replacing it with a urethane bushing from creative steel. https://creative-steel.com/shop/04-0...ntial-bushing/ |
MV7 is here! Snagged one with 18k miles from Canada. Shipping wasn't too bad and these things are getting tough to find with low miles. Looks like it is in great condition.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d1f102cea.jpg |
A long overdue update. I decided to keep the 3.91 OS Giken I have in the car currently as it should be a riot and lots of burnout fun. We'll see how streetable it is.
Sold the 3.42 G80 LSD I had to a member on here. Got the Kmiata diff braces and an MGW shifter. Spoke with V8 Roadsters today and they are willing to attempt to modify the MGW shifter, so we'll see if it is possible. I really want to use that MGW shifter so fingers crossed. Found a totaled 12k mile 2015 camaro in Houston with a good engine for $1,250 with the starter, alternator and gas pedal. Car was totaled from driver side damage and was not a rollover. Engine is currently running and I'm picking it up Friday. Update on the ECM... V8Roadsters confirmed the ECM I need is a GM Part # 12648906. Got one on ebay for $60. More updates soon as the partout and swap should begin soon. I'll be getting the Jacfab intake spacer and ported intake along with the overkill E85 kit (tune and sensor) and 80mm throttle body. I think that combo may be able to get up to 340whp, so we'll see. LFX V6 Performance | JacFab LLC : Custom Design & Camaro Accessories :: Overkill Motorsports :: Parts still needed: Custom Driveshaft V8R wiring harness Modified Shifter Kmiata PPF Delete Ticon 2.5" Titianium Exhaust and Sidepipes (hell yeah!) Custom intake V8R lfx/exocet engine mount kit New LFX clutch and flywheel from summit V8R clutch kit V8R NB/LFX Gauge adapter or custom gauges Modified oil pan DW300 fuel pump Harbor Freight Engine Stand and 2-ton hoist |
Can't wait to see how this turns out. Sidepipes :bigtu:
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Drove to Houston today to pick up the 2015 LFX engine. Lucked out and found a car with only 12,000 miles that had been in a driver side collision with no rollover. The windshield was pretty interesting. Looked like a deep head print with hair still in the glass on the passenger side. :ugh:
We managed to get the engine to fit into a Honda CRV and got it back home without any issues. Knocking down the checklist of parts needed pretty much daily now. The oil pan has been ordered from V8R and they said it will be 2 weeks. Also sent them my MGW short shifter to see if they can modify it to work. That MGW shifter is a work of art, absolutely gorgeous. Also received my DW300 fuel pump that is E85 friendly. Parts still needed: Custom Driveshaft V8R wiring harness Kmiata PPF Delete Ticon 2.5" Titianium Exhaust and Sidepipes (hell yeah!) Custom intake V8R lfx/exocet engine mount kit New LFX clutch and flywheel from summit V8R clutch kit V8R NB/LFX Gauge adapter or custom gauges https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fda9e1c8ab.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...72bdca1ad7.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8c05148e3.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f71ab5e159.jpg |
Need a little help finding some small clips on the transmission. I've searched every parts diagram and website I can find, but for the life of me I can't figure out what these three parts are to order them. My transmission came with these three clips missing. If anyone knows what the part numbers are for these clips it would be a massive help.
Image taken from ThePass' LFX thread. Edit: I think I found the two part numbers... 92293203 and 25753853 (x2). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...711aaca45c.jpg |
Intake manifold was sent to Jacfab for porting. I'm also picking up the overkill 80mm throttle body and intake spacer from Jason at Jacfab. He has been awesome to deal with and cut a package deal for me on all that stuff. Should have everything from him next week. Removed the factory passenger side valve cover vent and realized it was already the perfect size for 1/4" NPT threads. (EDIT: DO NOT DO THIS!!!, KEEP THE OEM PCV) Tapped it and got an Earl's 1/4" NPT to 3/8" 45 degree hose barb to improve venting to the catch can. The motor I have only had 12k miles and the valves were heavily coated with burnt oil. Took about two hours to clean them all and the amount of oil in the heads around the intake valves was ridiculous. I don't want to have to do that again. Got the 4 piece balancer puller set from harbor freight. If you plan on using this kit to remove the LFX balancer you will need to take the arms from the second smallest puller and put them onto the puller size one step up from that one. Worked fine once that was done.
Thanks to gooflophaze and his build thread (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...d-87186/page3/) I got the 2014 cadillac cts coolant pipe that goes down by the alternator and got it mocked up. Also ordered appropriate size aluminum and steel 90 degree tube bends from https://www.verociousmotorsports.com to tig on longer hard pipes for the lower and upper coolant pipes. I'm pretty sure if I do this right I can negate the need for odd size rubber hoses to fit the Supermiata radiator I'm using. The goal is to make it so I just need a simple 90 degree bend rubber hose on each side and improve clearance. The tubes I ordered are below, will confirm if these are correct when I get them. 1.5" OD 90 Deg. 6061 Aluminum Mandrel Bend, 16 Gauge - 1.5" Radius, 6" Legs 1.38" OD 90 Deg. Mild Steel Mandrel Bend, 16 Gauge - 1.5" Radius, 6" Legs And thanks to Ryan's build thread, I got the plugs he mentioned for the two holes beneath the rear coolant pipe plugged and sealed. I'm trying to maintain the sloppy mechanic mentality of at least 30 minutes per day to continue making good progress. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8a3a7b255e.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f2ff3eba0.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e4931ce78c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...160252f951.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dfc4b90f1b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a12a3d636c.jpg |
Had a conversation with the guys at Maxxis tires today. I'm having traction issues (in the rear) with my VR1 245/40/15 tires in the car's current trim with 250whp. Looking at adding nearly another 100whp so tires will definitely be an issue. My question was around being able to use the same size RC1 tires on the street and whether the heat cycling would be an issue. They confirmed it should not and being that the car is never driven in the rain and does some track duty, the RC1's should be fine. So it looks like that is the direction I'll be going shortly. If I can get traction in the rear with the RC1's, this car should be very fun.
Power to weight goal is 400hp at the crank (340whp) with a weight of 1600 pounds, which should put this car firmly into supercar territory. :party: |
Took a few minutes to figure out what bolt holes to use for the engine stand to get the oil pan off. You'll need a 90mm long bolt and nut for the hole on the lower right, it is unthreaded. The lower left bolt goes into the inner starter bolt hole. V8R Oil pan should hopefully be here next week.
Had a hell of a time trying to clock the alternator. GM used an Alternator Decoupler Pulley (ADP) on the 2015 alternator that I have. I thought at first I had to remove the pulley because that is how you would clock a traditional alternator. Ryan confirmed that you don't need to remove it which is great because you would have to buy $30 worth of special tools to remove it. You will need to remove the rear plastic cover and the small brush cover under that as well as the four long side screws. After that, you need to beat the living hell out of the back half with a rubber mallet (striking it away from the front half) to get the two pieces to separate. A word of caution... the brush cover comes off fairly easily, but I still haven't been able to figure out how to get it back on and even broke mine in the process. There is a dimple in the back of it that looks like you could insert something to hold the brushes down, but the translucent plastic cover prevents that. Tried removing the plastic cover and ended up breaking the brush assembly in the process. Taking it to a denso alternator shop this week to see if they can get a replacement brush assembly for me. If I were to do this over again, I would have just paid an alternator shop $40 to clock it for me and saved a ton of headache. I'll ask the alternator shop what is the right way to get the brush assembly back on and report back. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...784f097df2.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5acb5a81c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0af6d04467.jpg |
Quite a few updates... alternator is fubar'ed. Shop said they can't order parts for it, but were nice enough to offer to clock the new one for free. Oh well, you can't win them all. Best price I can find for a new one is $250 on Rock Auto.
Part out of the NB drivetrain went great. I priced everything pretty aggressively to move and almost everything sold on here within a few hours. Ordered the last LFX subframe in stock at V8R so the wait time shouldn't be bad. They did say because I'm using the MV7 transmission in an Exocet they will have to make some modifications. I think this is the first MV7 in an Exocet. Cool! V8R was also trying to modify my MGW shifter to work in this application per my request. Bad news is that they can't modify mine as some of the pins were permanently installed. Good news is it sounds like they are working with MGW to make a shifter specifically for the Miata swap. Woohoo! Super stoked to get my hands on that as soon as it is available. The Jacfab modified intake came back with their spacer and Overkill 80mm throttle body. Looks great and the Overkill throttle body (80mm) is a beast compared to the factory one (72mm). I plan on running a full 3.5" intake and I'm waiting for confirmation from Will at Overkill that he can tune for that before I order the 3.5" titanium intake tube from Ticon. Will be ordering the V8R custom harness and Maxxis 245/40/15 RC-1 tires next week. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48cc02c257.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48f9c9799e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b6e4f96b17.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a254d69ef3.jpg |
Any chance you've got that old alternator kicking around?
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Originally Posted by gooflophaze
(Post 1524914)
Any chance you've got that old alternator kicking around?
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Made a circuit to emulate ECM/BCM control of the alternator to boost the voltage up from 13.6 - but it didn't work in our car. Wondering if I accidentally broke ours while I was experimenting. If I could find a circuit board (or even a good photo) I might be able to get some understanding as to why.
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NB engine and trans are out and will be shipped off to their new owner next week. Got a nice reminder of how much I absolutely despise removing or installing the miata PPF. Waiting on the subframe from V8R and ordering their harness this week.
Also added in a pic of my new favorite tool, the Kobalt 1/2" Corded Impact Wrench. 350ft/lbs of torque at your disposal and for $120 worth every penny! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7422b2a68d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f2a38d47d9.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70d4248d49.jpg |
Update time.
List of completed items: - camaro gas pedal mounted - fabbed an aluminum bracket for the AIM MXP Strada dash - got the subframe and trans mount from V8R - diff beefed up with the Kmiata diff brace - Spal fan brackets made and fan is mounted - Modified the battery box to fit and got the new Odyssey PC925 in - All PTFE fuel lines in tank now with a DW300 fuel pump and Holley Hydramat (15"x8" cross) Kmiata PPF delete going in next and hoping the V8R oil pan gets here soon. Ordering Xida XL's with coaxial uppers tomorrow to replace the FM Vmaxx's. Then it is a bunch of wiring and fitting everything into place. V8R played with my MGW short shifter for the V6 camaro I sent them and it looks like they will be working with MGW to produce a new shifter for this swap. Very excited to get my hands on that as soon as they have it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...deb2d6164.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f76c25c2.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8cfd7bf76.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dce5cb15c.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e278924ce.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa33d60d93.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a348b30f5d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6593a3118.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...84968551eb.jpg |
So many good things happening here.
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Originally Posted by Garman
(Post 1529716)
So many good things happening here.
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Just wanted to give a huge thank you to Emilio and Ed at 949Racing for helping me with my suspension questions. New front sway bar (solid .93" OD) and Xida Race coilovers with the billet coaxial mounts ordered today. Ended up with 550f/350r spring rates.
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I like to see what the final weight is going to be and if the intake will fit under the stock hood. I am doing this swap near the end of the year with a goal of 1400lbs and 300whp
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Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 1529969)
I like to see what the final weight is going to be and if the intake will fit under the stock hood. I am doing this swap near the end of the year with a goal of 1400lbs and 300whp
Damn, 1400 is low! I think I could remove the windshield, headlights and brake lights, but not sure if there is much else. Oh, get those fancy carbon fiber seats they mention every now and then on the Exocet FB group. They don't look very comfortable though and are expensive as hell. I never weighed the car with the NB motor but I definitely will with the LFX in it. |
Got the Kmiata PPF Delete kit in and the diff reinstalled. I had to clearance the big and little holes on the lower ppf delete mount for the subframe bolts about 3mm on the passenger side for both sides. It was really close, but just couldn't get the bolts in no matter what I tried. Got the RC1's mounted as well. Ordering all the wiring this week to start down that rabbit hole. A huge thanks to Ryan for sharing his wiring size doc! And another note for anyone with an Exocet, the jack stands I'm using are amazing and I'm not scared for my life everytime I go under the car. Highly recommend these!
Originally Posted by ThePass https://www.miataturbo.net/mt2011/im...s/viewpost.gif https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing Keep in mind this is using tefzel wire which can generally carry more current than lower quality stuff. Below are rough ratings for Tefzel /16 and /32 wire. Rating is max. continuous current @ wire's max rated temperature (150°C / 300°F) & good for up to ~15 ft. 24ga 5.1A 22ga 6.3A 20ga 8.9A 18ga 11.4A 16ga 13.9A 14ga 17.7A 12ga 24.0A 10ga 32.9A https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0f9524a299.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea0c46a507.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c9b3786ebb.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2270b8975a.jpg |
Originally Posted by LukeG
(Post 1530023)
I have a 3/4" Jacfab intake spacer so the intake manifold that people typically make a cutout for is even higher. Fingers crossed I don't have to cut!
Damn, 1400 is low! I think I could remove the windshield, headlights and brake lights, but not sure if there is much else. Oh, get those fancy carbon fiber seats they mention every now and then on the Exocet FB group. They don't look very comfortable though and are expensive as hell. I never weighed the car with the NB motor but I definitely will with the LFX in it. |
Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 1530149)
Mine is right at 1500 lbs with a half tank, VVT 1.8. Here is the seats I'm about to order, 6 week lead time. they are moulded from the Lotus Exige seats
That sounds about right. I figured I was at 1550lbs with an NB turbo setup. Where is the rest of the weight loss coming from? Do you have a build thread for the Exo? |
Originally Posted by LukeG
(Post 1530167)
Didn't see a pic of the seats.
That sounds about right. I figured I was at 1550lbs with an NB turbo setup. Where is the rest of the weight loss coming from? Do you have a build thread for the Exo? I haven't updated it in awhile https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...eage-nb-98320/ |
Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 1530168)
lotus elise seats, vx 220 bucket seats
I haven't updated it in awhile https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...eage-nb-98320/ https://www.tillett.co.uk/shop/shopd...acing+Car+Seat |
Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 1529969)
I like to see what the final weight is going to be and if the intake will fit under the stock hood. I am doing this swap near the end of the year with a goal of 1400lbs and 300whp
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Originally Posted by LukeG
(Post 1530215)
Those aren't too bad in price and look awesome. I thought you were talking about the Tillet seats.
https://www.tillett.co.uk/shop/shopd...acing+Car+Seat |
I said fuck it and I'm going to rock my NB rear diff with the OS Giken LSD and 3.91 gears. Should make it easy to do burnouts! But yeah, first gear will be worthless.
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Thanks for the order Luke! Awesome things going on here. Sub'd.
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1530401)
Thanks for the order Luke! Awesome things going on here. Sub'd.
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Awesome build, Just noticed your in Austin. Maybe i will see you around, if you see a guy in a beat to shit 10AE with a K swap thats me. If you ever need a hand wrenching let me know, i am always down to help.
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Originally Posted by golfandcars
(Post 1530481)
Awesome build, Just noticed your in Austin. Maybe i will see you around, if you see a guy in a beat to shit 10AE with a K swap thats me. If you ever need a hand wrenching let me know, i am always down to help.
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I would like to see how much room is between the valve covers and the hood. I might just make a Intake manifold for this occasion.
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Had a longer than expected delay waiting on the new oil pan. V8R is sorting it out though and will hopefully have it out soon. Got the subframe mocked up and was struggling to get all the bolts in and couldn't figure out why. Looked at the old stock miata subframe that came off the car and it turns out the Exocet subframe mounts appear to be slightly off. Fun! You can see where the previous owner had to clearance the miata subframe holes so it would mount up to the Exocet fame. I'm in the process of lining up the subframe and making it perfectly even on both sides versus just opening the holes on one side like was done previously. Also ordered more energy suspension magic lube to get all the poly bushings nice and lubey.
Driver side front subframe mount https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0df23824f7.jpg Passenger side front subframe mount https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c8a217529e.jpg Passenger side miata mount that came off the Exo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...229f2effd3.jpg Driver side miata mount that came off the Exo https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6184292013.jpg I'm using the front lip on the gray V8R subframe to the left of the orange exo frame as a reference on both sides. .680" on both sides seems to be the magic number to get both sides perfectly even. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0e88f28fc.jpg |
Originally Posted by 1993ka24det
(Post 1531132)
I would like to see how much room is between the valve covers and the hood. I might just make a Intake manifold for this occasion.
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I just got my hands on a 2012-2015 factory camaro service manual in pdf form that extensively covers the 3.6 lfx. PM me your email if anyone wants a copy.
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A few things showed up today... Xida's with billet coaxial uppers, V8R oilpan, new front sway bar (smaller per 949's recommendation) and V8R rear lower control arms. The rear upper control arms should be coming soon along with the engine harness. This is plenty to keep me busy over the weekend and finally get the engine in the car.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6db5b019de.jpg |
:party:
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Quick question on the brake booster hose... The old miata brake booster hose I pulled off has a check valve built into it and will not reach to the LFX manifold port for the brake booster. What is everyone using to replace this hose with the LFX swap?
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If you are keeping the metal tub the booster hoses connect to on the firewall as in your earlier pic, then you can put whatever new hose you need to on the end opposite the booster to connect to the vacuum port on the engine.
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The hard lines in the center behind the engine are gone. Can I just use a standard hose or does it have to have a check valve?
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hose, hose reducer barb, stock piece with check valve.
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Originally Posted by gooflophaze
(Post 1534766)
hose, hose reducer barb, stock piece with check valve.
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So I'm about to put the new oil pan on and the old Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring looks quite a bit different than the new one. Normally I would send it, but I do not want to have to remove the pan again once the engine is in the car. The old one also has a decent indention in the top that makes me hesitant to reuse it. The part number on the bag is the new one, and the old one is on the left. They go to the oil pump inlet where it meets the block (pictured below them).
Everything I have seen confirms this is the correct part. Anyone who has done the oil pan swap, did you get a new o-ring? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1706abcc7f.jpg |
Okay, so there are definitely two different part numbers.
The old one without the bumps is ACDelco 12566837. This is what was on my oil pan from the factory. The other one is ACDelco 12615569. This website says that the 5569 replaced the 6837. Cool! https://www.newgmparts.com/oem-parts...-seal-12615569 |
Quick reference for anyone who might need this. The Luk LFX flywheel/clutch kit everyone uses from Summit does not come with flywheel or pressure plate bolts. The part numbers are below.
Flywheel bolts (x8) 11588884 Pressure plate to flywheel bolts (x6) 11611397 The flywheel bolts already come with blue thread locker on them, but the factory service manual calls for 262 red loctite to be used on the flywheel bolts and torqued to 49 ft/lbs. |
Xida's and V8R rear upper and lower control arms are on. The uppers were a battle. Lowers went on without issue. Gawd damn those Xida's are pretty! Also got the flywheel on but still waiting for the clutch to flywheel bolts and they should be here Friday. If you aren't running power steering or ac and the factory balancer, I believe the proper belt length is 80". Have one on order and will confirm once I receive it. The belt I ordered is at the link below.
https://www.vbelts4less.com/800K6--K...t_p_25812.html https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f48d3fa5cb.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f92c91aa3.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...897dcde0a8.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...df253741d6.jpg |
Anyone else have an issue with the lowest bolt on the passenger side engine mount (connects to oil pan) being too long? My engine is a 2015, so I'm thinking that might be it, but the bolt is bottoming out and needs to be 10mm shorter. Just wanted to confirm before I cut it.
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Engine is finally in. Took three guys three hours to drop it in from above. Few recommendations for anyone doing this with an Exocet in the future...
1) Get the subframe bolts in and lower the subframe as much as you can while the bolts are loose but still attached. 2) Get a nice high lift floor jack on the rear of the transmission to help align everything. 3) Loosely attach the engine mounts to the subframe, not the engine. 4) Remove the alternator. It will not fit in the car attached to the engine. My alternator isn't even close to clearing the Exo frame tubes. I hit up DJWade for his alternator bracket CAD plans, I'm going to need them. Oh, and did a test fit on the hood... not even close to clearing the raised Overkill intake. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f5c508ebe.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e0fefc79f2.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de6105f8b6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3f60c657eb.jpg |
Originally Posted by LukeG
(Post 1536197)
Anyone else have an issue with the lowest bolt on the passenger side engine mount (connects to oil pan) being too long? My engine is a 2015, so I'm thinking that might be it, but the bolt is bottoming out and needs to be 10mm shorter. Just wanted to confirm before I cut it.
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Originally Posted by rdb138
(Post 1536335)
Hey Luke, I just test fit my 2015 two weeks ago, but been out of town since. I know one bolt bottomed out too, not sure which one off the top of my head. I also need new bolts for the transmission (mv5) they are too long too. I’ll check when I get back home in a week and let you know for sure which bolt it is. (Also going to start a build thread soon, I believe you are a bit further along than me.). Also going to PM you about the manual, would love a copy. Fyi...your car looks great!
Thanks! Yeah, I ended up cutting about 10mm off of the bolt that goes into the oil pan and it fit fine after that. |
Just an fyi for anyone doing an exocet LFX, I'm working with a friend to do a CAD oem alternator bracket that flips the alternator 180 degrees to get the stud away from the subframe and drops it a couple inches to clear the exo frame. Once I get it finished I'll post the CAD file so anyone can have it made. It is the one part of the build there doesn't seem to be a good solution for yet.
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Finally figured out what I'm doing with the exhaust. There were a few important criteria for me. I want an H pipe because I love the sound, I also want a single muffler (two won't fit) and I wanted a side exit. I originally wanted to use titanium, but the cost started getting ridiculous and the parts I needed didn't exist in many cases in titanium. Stainless on the other hand is the standard and I can get pretty much anything made fairly easily or off the shelf.
Called up Spintech in Cali and came up with a solution. There is no way I could fit mufflers or an H pipe with a front side exit, and I also didn't want to breath exhaust fumes. So I'm going to run the Keisler stainless downpipes to dual 2.5" tubes. Put the H pipe right after the trans in the tunnel and the muffler after that. Then run the dual exits from the muffler to 5"x1" stainless ovals that go under the exo floor and exit in front of the rear wheels. Spintech is making the ovals, muffler and transitions to the ovals from the round tube for me, so it should be fairly easy to weld up with some appropriate bends once I get all the pieces. I'll post pics as it comes together, but very excited to see the exhaust come to fruition. |
Ended up doing a lot more custom fab on this build than I anticipated, but all good. Learning a ton as I go.
Tried finding a solution to mount the oem alternator on the passenger side. No way it was going to fit without a completely custom bracket and even then some cutting on the subframe. Decided to try the driver side and it fits like a charm. You can cut the factory alternator mount to make it pretty clean without a lot of fab. Still need to weld up the top bracket, but it aligns perfectly for the belt in this location. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b5b37f6f3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fe65db61c4.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6b28da32e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...62b00bef2d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e90c0263d3.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...038662a5e6.jpg |
That looks great (OEM for the engine) & best solution to your problem too. I know you have a little extra work with the wiring harness now, but I think you choose the simplest fix. Belt alignment and everything looks great! Nice Job!
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