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I called Harris Hill and they wanted $2,500 to be a member and then an additional $200 per month if I remember correctly. Is there a way to drive there without being a member?
I also heard they have a pretty strict sound level and I'm not sure I would make the cut. Would love to drive there though! Let me know if you have any thoughts.
This is true, it's unlimited on member days. But if you can't go when they are having member days, etc, you are still paying for it.
As with any membership. It's like a country club but affordable and it's a racetrack. On average 5 days a week are member days, first week of the month the bike guys get a few extra days but that's it.
Anyway, sorry for the derail, OP send me a message if you want to check out the track, I'll be glad to let you right seat in my NC and check it out.
As with any membership. It's like a country club but affordable and it's a racetrack. On average 5 days a week are member days, first week of the month the bike guys get a few extra days but that's it.
Anyway, sorry for the derail, OP send me a message if you want to check out the track, I'll be glad to let you right seat in my NC and check it out.
Yeah, it is a total steal and bargain for what it is. My only wish is that I lived closer! I'll hit you up as I need to make a trip down there anyways to see if the car will pass the sound requirements.
Starting on my winter to do list for the car. The front sway bar was moving horizontally a few inches every time I drove it, so I got some lateral locks from energy suspension. They work great and no more lateral movement. I'm currently redoing the entire fuse box side of the harness. I wanted to upgrade the wiring to Tefzel and also look everything over in detail. Found one loose connector wire on the fusebox for ecu power. Suspicious as to whether that could be causing my limp mode issues.
Winter Exocet To Do List: Lateral locks on swaybar
Remove wheel spacers
Order and install JR19 15x10.5 ET-32 wheels
Install front and rear billet miata hubs
Install carbon fiber wiring tray cover
Rewire and repin fusebox side of harness
Replace diff housing with RX7 NA FC housing
Weld baffles into side exhaust outlets to reduce sound for Harris Hill
Remove horn and use power wire for ecu (consolidate with other ecu power wire for 30amps)
Reprogram P12 to change horn power output to ecu power
Pull transmission to check rear main seal and oil pan for source of small oil leak
Run dedicated 2ga ground from battery to distribution block for everything other than engine block ground
Install new battery disconnect switch with separate post for alternator
Run dedicated 2ga power wire from battery kill switch to alternator (master kill switch doesn't work if car is running right now)
Yes. Really do not suggest doing it that way, way easier to drop the subframe, engine, and transmission all at once. Highly dangerous, do not recommend, proceed at own risk.
You have to loosen the subframe bolts and tilt the engine back, and then twist the transmission counter clockwise nearly 90 degrees if memory serves, to get enough clearance between bellhousing and firewall (at least on our NA).
Alright, had a bit of a wtf moment with the limp mode the ecu keeps throwing at me. Been chasing my tail for months with this. Had a conversation with Andrew at Keisler and he said they have seen this on a few cars and after replacing every sensor one by one they determined it was the high pressure fuel sensor. It is literally the only sensor on the car I haven't replaced and honestly I didn't even know there was one back there. You can't see it with the engine in the car. So engine is out and going over everything. Going to pull the oil pan and rear main seal and redo both with Ultra Black. That oem gm sealant sucks btw. Just go Ultra Black if you need to seal the pan or rear main. Also replacing the high pressure fuel pump because I hate pulling the engine and figured it was one of the only things that hasn't been replaced. Will be ordering the LFX flywheel and clutch from Spec Clutches shortly. Once everything is back in and running good, plan is to get my hands on an Eaton TVS 1900 roots blower and work with Griff to adapt it to the LFX.
2016 Equinox LFX with 0 miles/never installed factory crate motor is on the way. Will need to swap over all my engine accessories and change the pan out.
wait, did I miss something? Why? What happened to the engine that's in the car?
That engine was always giving me weird issues. Random misfires and knock, oil leak at the rear (which could be a sign of the #3 thrust bearing breaking per a GM service bulletin) and accelerator pedal limp mode that drove me crazy. I got fed up with it and decided to pull it. Was planning on going through the whole thing and putting a lot of work into it, but came across a 0 mile engine that had never been installed. For all the work I'm doing on the car it would be really nice to have a brand new no issue motor, so now it is being replaced. The original motor only had 12,500 miles, but it was from a front impact totaled car. Learned my lesson on that one. ThePass also had issues with his first one or two salvage motors.
That sucks (switching motors) but I hope this fixes those issues for you. That's awesome that you came across a brand new motor! I really need to get on the ball. You're going to have two engine swaps completed before I get my first one done. Hope this one goes together smooth & quick! Looking forward to seeing the supercharger too.
I was having issues on clutch disengagement at high rpm shifting that leads to occasional grinding. I'm upgrading to a larger bore wilwood master cylinder to see if that resolves the issue. I read a couple hundred pages of people having issues with the MV5 and the master bore being too small from the factory to properly disengage the clutch. 1" bore master that I ordered is below for reference. Current one on the car is a 7/8" bore.
Updates... got the new engine setup and all the parts transferred over. Waiting on the ATS-V windage tray that has been all over the country the last two weeks ( TX -> MI -> PA -> TX) thanks to the tards at USPS. Griff mentioned it has a better baffle setup so going to try it out if it ever gets here.
Also cut open my boom tube exhaust side exits to add some pretty serious baffling. I am attempting to get this car substantially quieter (<99db) to appease the race gods at Harris Hill. Fingers crossed this works. Threw in some more pics of the cut oem alternator bracket that should make the cut line more clear for anyone trying to do this.
After looking at the camaro and equinox oil filter housings, I prefer the equinox one. The camaro housing uses a cartridge style filter but it is substantially smaller than the equinox filter. Waiting on wheels (felgenwerks 15x10 -32) and the spec stage 3+ (unsprung) clutch/flywheel still. Attempted to order some carbon Tillet B6 seats, but they told me they are backordered by 27 weeks.Post covid supply chains suck ***. Everything is becoming harder to get.
Oh, and got to drive a C8 today. My buddy had his delivered yesterday with the Z51 package. Holy hell what a nice car. I am in shock this came from GM, very impressive and gorgeous car. We'll definitely be doing some roll-ons on deserted roads once I am running again. Curious to see how the C8 does against the beast.
Just came across a channel on youtube documenting two miata lfx swaps going on at the same time. Great videos and very cool to see a well funded race team take on the swap.
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