One of the drawbacks of sticking with the stock ECU is that it has no ability to control boost. As a result the max boost for the FM kit is set mechanically with the wastegate actuator rod, with the target being 176kpa for the NC2/3. Since I live at nearly 5000ft, and don't want it to overboost when I drive it at lower altitudes, I adjusted that target down to 161kpa. This should realize a max around the FM target boost at sea level. Down the road, I'll probably install a manual boost control so I can easily make changes to known values and that will allow me to make max power at my home elevation.

I used the Versatuner logging function to look at the numbers from my test drive...



The interface is a little different, but gives similar information to what you would get from a standalone datalog. I was able to see my max boost at 158 kpa, so I made an adjustment and will check again on the next drive. Looking at lambda and converting to AFR, it looks like it's going to ~10.6 at max boost. I'll play with some more datalogs to see what's going on with the tune.

 

I checked again for any leaks, and after everything had cooled off, installed the turbo blanket. Along with the MAP sensor, this is the one part of the install everyone complains about. And it was a PITA... fiddly, and not much room to work. After the blanket, I installed the re-located washer reservoir and put the hood back on. And, I think that's about it... all done.

 

Nice, looking good man! I'm excited to hear your driving impressions after more driving. Interested to see what they did with the tune as well, I'd assume it's nice and safe. Most of the EcoBoost cars we get in at the dealership target around 10.0-1.05:1 @ WOT, so 10.6:1 doesn't sound far off for this application.

They did a really damn good job of making the engine bay look nice and tidy with the kit installed too.

 

The way I got around this, with the MSM when it was in STU class (boost control was open, but couldn't add engine control sensors) was to use an Innovate SCG-1. it's an absolute pressure boost controller as well as wideband with safeties. you can set it to where if you go lean, it cuts boost.
Bad thing is it uses it's own Wideband gauge, has it's own MAP sensor, and is a gauge itself, so it takes up more room, with more connections that can introduce more variables when things go weird.

 

Thanks for the info, but I don't know that I want to get that deep into things... an MBC should allow me to compensate for altitude quickly and easily without a lot of extra work. I've got the boost set mechanically for what should be a safe level at sea level, and the MBC should allow me to get to FM's targets at my altitude.

Some temp readings from approximately the same conditions as above, but with the turbo blanket in place.





Still putting some heat cycles on to check everything for leaks and loosness (nothing so far), so no extended review yet. What I have experienced so far is impressive. This thing is going to be fun!

 

Looking good! Sorry if I missed this, but are you running your own wideband to monitor AFRs? Excited to read a detailed review/synopsis of things once you get it dialed in, comfortable with it, and familiar with the ins and outs of the car. Mainly I'm curious how well they do an "OEM" implementation of this kit and if there are any obvious downfalls or issues with the tuning, etc.

 

FM's setup retains both factory O2 sensors, and that's the data I'm getting through the OBD port. I'm not running a separate wideband.

So far everything is great, and it's a lot of fun to drive, but I've only done some short, around town drives. I made an appointment for next week to get the A/C recharged, so probably won't be driving it a whole lot until then as hot as it's been.

 

I'm not an NC guy, but my good friend is so I'm always trying to absorb good knowledge for him. I've read/heard that the NC o2 sensor is not a "real wideband", though it's "better than a narrowband". I have no idea what this means, and from your datalogs it looks like it's got a pretty wide range to me, and looks about like I'd expect from a normal wideband (in lambda of course), with a range from 10.3 - 20:1 shown in your datalog that looks like as much resolution as one could need! Any input on that?

 

I've read the same things as Nate. Lots of conflicting opinions on what kind of sensor it really is. FWIW, it is a 4-wire sensor, as opposed to the 5-wire Bosch LSU sensors and other widebands we're used to seeing. I've read that widebands can still be 4-wire but don't know exactly what this gives up.

 

You have an icon down low with numbers, it saves the log as csv and then it can be viewed on MegaLog. Much easier.

 

Thanks for the tip. It's been a minute since I've used it, but MegaLog has a better UI than Versatune.

Meanwhile, the shop is cleaned up, the NC is washed and waxed. Fluids are topped up and everything is ready to go*



*except for a few of those pesky plastic body rivets that disintegrate when you remove them... have some arriving today. Also have an appointment for Monday morning to recharge the A/C...

 

MT's fastest turbo build right here haha

 

Start to finish? Could be...

But using a kit like this isn't as much 'build' as 'install'. I have to reiterate that this FM kit is one of the best examples of the aftermarket I think I've ever dealt with. Thoughtfully and thoroughly engineered. Complete down to small detail items like the screw covers in the windshield cowl that always break when you remove them... FM includes a pair in the kit, just in case. Excellent printed instructions and almost 5 hours of YT video on the installation, and another 1.5 hours of tech videos on the kit. I know most of us here on MT.net are 'brew your own' types, and I'm usually no exception (see my NA K swap thread), but for this NC the 'complete no-hassle package' was exactly what I was looking for.

**Disclaimer - I don't work for FM, and I paid full price for the kit... I'm just very, very impressed.

 

Took the NC for a quick drive to Tombstone this morning and then to the local Cars & Coffee.

Turned over 35,000 just as I was stopping for fuel...



In front of the Tombstone Territorial Courthouse... It served as the Cochise County Courthouse until 1931 when the seat was moved to Bisbee, and became a State Park in 1959. It's also a museum and is worth stopping at if you're into western history and ever in Tombstone.



I still have a bit of fiddling to do when my boost controller arrives, but the car is so much fun to drive. If you didn't know better, you'd think it was a factory turbo and I think that's about the highest praise I can give for the FM turbo kit. And it's exactly what I was after. The extra torque in the midrange is just what the NC needed, and keeping up with traffic no longer requires revving the engine out. When you have the room to open things up its impressively fast. I would happily trade a bit of the recirc valve noise for the exhaust noise that was reduced by the turbo, but it is what it is.

At C&C... several folks didn't even notice the turbo until they did a double take.


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This weekend I received the Supermiata NC 'Chubs' I pre-ordered some time back. Though upgraded hubs probably aren't strictly necessary for this car I do like that 'bulletproof' feeling. And it will likely get a set of wheels with sticky tires for AutoX and the occasional track outing so it's nice to have the better quality studs as well.




I'm probably not going to install these for a while, may do it as part of an undetermined brake upgrade down the road.

 

I don’t recall if you’ve got their NA/NB chubs on your track car, but these are a joy to use. The can’t-cross-thread studs are sweet.

I put mine on the shelf for a while before I installed mine. Pro-tip - buy any bearings and seals you need for the rears now, that way you’re not waiting on parts when you decide to do the job. You may find yourself bored and without anything to do in the garage.

 

Thanks... good idea.

The Supermiata parts weren't around yet when I upgraded the NA... it's got Miatahubs on the front and SadFab on the rear.

 

I need a little theory advice from the MT.net brain trust... This NC is my first non-factory turbo, and though I have a pretty good grasp of all the physics involved, I'm looking for some real world experience as input.

The FM kit relies entirely on the mechanical wastegate to control boost. That can be manipulated with a manual boost controller, but there is no mechanism for boost control in the factory Mazda ECU. My situation is that I live at 4800ft, but want to ensure the car is safe to drive without overboosting at lower elevations. The target is, of course a max MAP kpa number, in this case 176kpa. The FM instructions state the following:



The guy who did all the engine calibration work for the kit posted in a thread over on M.net:

Now, he's talking about going UP in altitude where it's more difficult for the turbo to achieve a given max kpa in the manifold. I understand that. I'm worried about going DOWN in altitude, where it's easier for the turbo to create pressure. The question becomes whether the adjustment to the wastegate will result in the same absolute MAP numbers that the engine sees? This is where I'm a little fuzzy... the wastegate is operating relative to an absolute number (MAP), not relative due to altitude, but if the turbo is operating more efficiently, can the wastegate move enough air at sea level to keep the absolute MAP at the same number it did at 5000ft? FM's instructions seem to indicate that an adjustment will be necessary... I'm wondering what folks real world experiences are with this?

 

I'm siding with FM (who are also at altitude) on this one. I'm not an FM fanboy by any means, and often argue with their logic on certain things, but I think they are right here. I just don't see how a wastegate spring could work on absolute pressure, it would operate just like a boost gauge and operate on relative pressure (relative to the KPA of your altitude).

I.E. the WG springs PSI is added over whatever the current baro pressure. Which means an 8psi (55kpa) wastegate at sea level (100kpa) = 155kpa, but at 5,000ft where you might have ~85kpa baro on a given day would see ~140kpa. Sure, at altitude the turbo will have to spin harder to make that same (relative) 8psi, but that doesn't mean it's the same absolute pressure.

So sure, you set it to ~175kpa max at sea level, then go up, the turbo will work harder to maintain that same relative pressure but the total KPA will be less as you go up. The opposite would also happen if you set it to 175KPA at 5,000 ft and went down in altitude, which sounds like it would be really bad.

I'd probably roughly calculate the max setting for sea level and just leave it that way at altitude, giving up a bit of power, if you are going up and down and don't want to have to touch anything.

 

That's pretty much where I'm at (and it's what FM recommends). I was thinking the wastegate diaphragm/spring had to work on relative pressure as opposed to absolute, but I wasn't sure.

I will probably use the MBC to bring up the boost at home, and just dial it down for trips to sea level. It's not like I need to max this thing out, but it would be nice to get the full package.

Thanks for the input!