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Yo, OP. Jon here. Glad to see you started a thread. 97 will be fun with inspection, since you will have to swap the ECU and injectors and put the MAF back in every two years to pass inspection.
He will probably have to swap on a stock manifold and exhaust also. Since I don't put a EGR port on the manifold.
reroute and fm1 are in the mail I assume I need both egr block off plates (sensor/tube).. ?
Jon your help would be greatly appreciated, hopefully Sunday I can swing by
Duno about the egr plates, but we can likely make them quick out of aluminum. FM1 is a good choice.
Yeah, swing by sunday for the flywheel, or tomorrow evening, or friday, or whatever. Just give me a heads up so I can let you know when I will be home.
So I'm a little late to put these pictures up but last week some serious progress was made..
Shout out to Jon for coming and helping us put the engine/trans back in around in the early am hours.. we would have spent hours lining up the motor mounts Huge thanks to Jon for coming and helping out super late.. he whipped up a quick block off plate that worked flawlessly success pizza all back together!
still looking for a good deal on a MS2PnP while I'm fixing up small problems like old hoses and such. Clutch feels great, I believe all that's left is injectors, knock sensor, wideband, tap the pan, and the MS.
If I cant find a good deal ill bite the bullet and go new from DIYpnp...
begi gaskets are awesome, peel and stick on to every surface. You'll need the spacer, new heater core hose, upper radiator hose, a block off plate and a kia sephia water neck. Parts should ring up around $150
begi gaskets are awesome, peel and stick on to every surface. You'll need the spacer, new heater core hose, upper radiator hose, a block off plate and a kia sephia water neck. Parts should ring up around $150
Everything. If you wanted to play video games, would you go out and buy a ps3 or a ps4?
If you were going the DIYPNP route, you have to solder everything together yourself. You can build your own MS3X in the $600 range. All the info you need is on trubokitty.com.
The prebuild MSPNP2 doesn't seem to be that far behind the MS3x from what I can see. Has all the features and controlls the same, a few less extra ins and outs though. Has senquential fuel and spark and a built in knock input. Having an MS3x, I really don't see there being that much of a difference and the knock input is an advantage?
The DIYPNP though is old and I always reccomend the ms3 over that.
Was supposed to pick up a set of Kosei K1s today but seller appears to have fallen through.. Looks like I'll be ordering MS later this week with unexpected room in budget
Wideband is installed and installing megasquirt soon. My afrs are spot besides WOT... Idles between 14-15, medium load reads 13-14, but never creeps back up to 13.5 at wot at high rpms, possibly a bad ground for the gauge? Will relocate ground and see what happens, just want to make sure it's accurate before I tune based on it
WOT is open loop, so it just does what it wants. Mine would get down to 11.6 at WOT at redline on the stock ecu.
everything I've read here points to pig rich afrs on the stock ecu @wot, that's why I wasn't sure if it was accurate when I never see 12s. Probably just paranoid or things have changed with sequential fuel?
everything I've read here points to pig rich afrs on the stock ecu @wot, that's why I wasn't sure if it was accurate when I never see 12s. Probably just paranoid or things have changed with sequential fuel?
It varies. Some are a lot closer to reasonable than others. The 14-15 is closed loop, so the ecu will force the fuel to be in that range on the gauge. Check the ground like you said, and if it's good, don't worry about it.
Different WBs also report quite differently on the AFRs. When I increase fuel by 10% with an LC-1, AFR drops by a little less than 10%. When I do the same with an MTX-L (same manufacturer), repoted AFR drops by considerably more than 10%, almost 20%.
They are reasonably close around stoich apparently. The farther you get away from stoich, the less precise they are. They also seem to be more accurate at reporting lean than rich.
TL;DR: Don't worry about the AFRs you're reading with stock ECU.
Do you already have an MS? If not, I would recommend going MS3-based instead of MS2-based. More opportunity for growth. MS2-based only of you're severely budget-restricted. Or, if you're more adventurous, you could go rusefi instead of MS.
Different WBs also report quite differently on the AFRs. When I increase fuel by 10% with an LC-1, AFR drops by a little less than 10%. When I do the same with an MTX-L (same manufacturer), repoted AFR drops by considerably more than 10%, almost 20%.
They are reasonably close around stoich apparently. The farther you get away from stoich, the less precise they are. They also seem to be more accurate at reporting lean than rich.
TL;DR: Don't worry about the AFRs you're reading with stock ECU.
Do you already have an MS? If not, I would recommend going MS3-based instead of MS2-based. More opportunity for growth. MS2-based only of you're severely budget-restricted. Or, if you're more adventurous, you could go rusefi instead of MS.
I already have a PnP2 going in rather soon, things are tight my daily has just blown up
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I assume I need both egr block off plates (sensor/tube).. ? 
