I wish someone would do that to my engine bay for me.
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Heat shield on the brake master?
 

Nice build!

What are you using to heat shield the brake master?
It looks interesting...

Thanks,
Jim

Powdercoated

It's a heat shield blanket that can be purchased from summit racing.

:werd: engine bay is definitely nice, definitely something I'd pay somebody to do on my car ;)

Thanks for all of the compliments. The most aggravating step was degreasing the engine bay followed by sanding.

I'll do engine bay cleanup/work for anyone! :) just fly me away from charlotte.... haha!
Hopefully Nick and I will have this beast buttoned up next weekend. Stay tuned for a small update tonight from Nick. We worked rather slow yet hard today. Head is on the new motor, and almost ready to drop back into the car.
-Brad

Like Brad said, not much done this week but should be completed in two weeks TOPS.

Gaskets:

Attachment 211724

Drilling the oil pan with it off is cake compared to it in the car:

Attachment 211725
Attachment 211726

Finally have pictures of the block before putting on my original head:

Attachment 211727
Attachment 211728
Attachment 211729

Assembled:

Attachment 211730

Wanted to double check on the correct ARP head stud torque measurements? We used 85 pounds since we used a 30 weight (no moly oil).

Wanted to ask how would you guys break in the motor, NA or FI? It would be warmed up fully and be given full accel/decel in the first 3 gears for roughly 20 miles. Dino oil would then be changed shortly after in favor for full synthetic.

Nice build up. Great to see all the pics! Thanks.

NP, anyone have an insight on the previous question? If broken in FI, it will be the stock greddy configuration and boost settings. (vortec, retard timing, etc..)

get it up to speed slowly in gear, then let go of the gas (still in gear) and let it pull vacuum. do that a few times in 2nd and 3rd and it's broken in. all you need to do is make sure the rings are set well in their hone. honestly I believe, if you idle the engine it should go to go.

^
Okay. Break it in naturally aspirated than.

my machinist said the same as brain. However he said to use shitty dino oil for the first 100 miles or so to encourage a little bearing wear-in. He thinks the synth is too slick for bearings.

He also said to expect 10-20% gain in output on the dyno after a few thousand miles when the motor loosens up. I just picked up a G8 rental with 8 miles on it (this happens all the time so I make sure to do a proper break in because cars have a soul). It pulled significantly harder after 2 3-hour highway cruises in my butt-dyno 0-60. The motor didn't want to spin like it did after a few hundred miles.

I previously got my information from one of the threads here and read more about it from this link:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Two weeks flew by and we've been busy and caught up in our daily lives that this project was put on hold but it's back with a few important updates. I'll let the pictures do the work.


Transmission needed cleaning badly
Attachment 211143
Attachment 211144

Brake/parts cleaner and wire brush
Attachment 211145

Engine on stand with turbo components and mocked up 2.5 downpipe thats getting redone thanks to Brad!
Attachment 211146
Attachment 211147
Attachment 211148

One of the most important accomplishments
Attachment 211149
Attachment 211150

The motor should be up and running ::crossfingers:: this weekend if weather permits. Motor will be broken in NA and then turboed after.

Check list of things left to do:
-driveshaft
-radiator/fans
-extend wiring
-fluids/plugs
-body panels
...and other knick knacks




Question: I relooped my powersteering lines but could someone tell me where they sourced these red plugs(off steering rack) or another option to enclose both holes?
Attachment 211151

A HUGE HUGE thanks goes to Brad *na3turbo* for helping me with this swap :giggle:


Thanks to Ben who also came over this week to lend a hand.

just put a bolt in those holes with a washer. they don't need to keep any pressure or seal in any oil, you just lube the rack a little and the bolts are there to keep dust/dirt out.

P.S. don't loop the lines, take it apart while you have easy access and cut off the seal inside.

Looks great. Super jealous..

Videos when broken in and turbo'd!

Dude please keep up the progress, very nice indeed...
My engine bay is FILTHY & overcrowded....once I have things sorted out I hope I'll get it looking like this...

X2
its pretty easy to take the rack apart and cut/beat out the inner seal, then if you look on my build thread i just cut the lines and crimped the small ones. for the biggers ones i but a rubber cap on with a zip tie

gl on the build