Nick's Build/Installation Thread
 

Due to problems with the short nose crank in the old motor i proceeded to throw in the new one with a built block. Due to class, work, and other time constraints I will be updating this thread once a week over a span of three hopefully.

Engine specs: Has also been milled .40 over, balance, polish, and coated calico bearings.

-Carrillo rods (1.6)
-Wiseco pistons
-Bill's oil pump gears
-Cometic metal head gasket (deciding if i should run this or an OEM unit)
-Gates timing belt
-new seals, gaskets, ARP main/head stud kits
-new waterpump


Before Pictures:
Attachment 212099
Attachment 212100
Attachment 212101

Week 1 Progress:

Attachment 212095
Attachment 212096
Attachment 212097


Old meets new:

Attachment 212098
I need to go source another long transmission bolt so I can get it on the engine stand. I need to find pictures of the block with the guts installed. Also need to get my old head decked.


Week 2's progress should consist of:
-stripping the engine bay
-wire tuck
-scotch red the bay, then on with the paint
-possible installation of the NB rear top hats

Good stuff man. I cant wait to get to that point. How much did the motor work run ya and more importantly who built it?

Also, I hope at some point you put some new tires on the car b4 it hits the roads.
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Bought the motor off my friend who's in the picture, gave me a deal. He spent $5000 including labor/parts. Work was done by someone with 5+ years of experience I believe. I have RS2 225-45's sitting here waiting.

i love the look of this car! Will keep an eye on this thread.

In for the progress.
What clutch are you going to use?

^Banned? :eek5:


Still running my ACT and findanza flywheel until it wont hold anymore.

lookin good!

You bastard, I knew you were gonna go for it...if it was a 1.8 I would have got it instead if nothing but just to save time...You know how long it took Brad to build it.
Hooray for progress, when you guys are done, I'll hand you over my car to do the same for me...thanks!

let me help fund your project... lemme buy your front lip!!!

Attachment 212062
whoa, a motor dirtier than mine!

Dan if you buy his lip. I'm buying yours and painting it white.

I really want a broken r-pack lip. someone hook me up.

Zabac: It fell into my lap at the right time when my motor let go.

Rappadan: Buy me a racing beat bumper and i'll consider it ;)

Hustler: Previous owner neglected it plus my t fitting on the oil feed line leaked.

Week 2's progress:
-Took out headlights and electrical components
-Bombard engine bay and steering rack with Simple Green and proceed to scrub for 2 hours
-Take off front bumper/fenders/wheels
-Let Brad do his magic on the wire tuck
-Scotch Red engine bay
-Primer and use "Chassis Black" paint

On with the pictures:

Passenger
Attachment 211875

Driver
Attachment 211876

Caked with oil/grease!!
Attachment 211877

Sanding with Gojo works wonders
Attachment 211878
Attachment 211879

"Chassis Paint" is very durable and dries quick
Attachment 211869
Attachment 211870

Brad's wire tuck, passenger
Attachment 211871
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Drivers
Attachment 211873
Attachment 211874

i have one. how bout you buy it for like 150 and ship me yours!

nice progress man. the engine bay repaint is what I really liked. looks so clean after

Is that lower radiator hose replacement a custom piece?

Looks like the normal 1.6 piece to me. Just has a nice paint job.
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I wish someone would do that to my engine bay for me.
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Heat shield on the brake master?
 

Nice build!

What are you using to heat shield the brake master?
It looks interesting...

Thanks,
Jim

Powdercoated

It's a heat shield blanket that can be purchased from summit racing.

:werd: engine bay is definitely nice, definitely something I'd pay somebody to do on my car ;)

Thanks for all of the compliments. The most aggravating step was degreasing the engine bay followed by sanding.

I'll do engine bay cleanup/work for anyone! :) just fly me away from charlotte.... haha!
Hopefully Nick and I will have this beast buttoned up next weekend. Stay tuned for a small update tonight from Nick. We worked rather slow yet hard today. Head is on the new motor, and almost ready to drop back into the car.
-Brad

Like Brad said, not much done this week but should be completed in two weeks TOPS.

Gaskets:

Attachment 211724

Drilling the oil pan with it off is cake compared to it in the car:

Attachment 211725
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Finally have pictures of the block before putting on my original head:

Attachment 211727
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Assembled:

Attachment 211730

Wanted to double check on the correct ARP head stud torque measurements? We used 85 pounds since we used a 30 weight (no moly oil).

Wanted to ask how would you guys break in the motor, NA or FI? It would be warmed up fully and be given full accel/decel in the first 3 gears for roughly 20 miles. Dino oil would then be changed shortly after in favor for full synthetic.

Nice build up. Great to see all the pics! Thanks.

NP, anyone have an insight on the previous question? If broken in FI, it will be the stock greddy configuration and boost settings. (vortec, retard timing, etc..)

get it up to speed slowly in gear, then let go of the gas (still in gear) and let it pull vacuum. do that a few times in 2nd and 3rd and it's broken in. all you need to do is make sure the rings are set well in their hone. honestly I believe, if you idle the engine it should go to go.

^
Okay. Break it in naturally aspirated than.

my machinist said the same as brain. However he said to use shitty dino oil for the first 100 miles or so to encourage a little bearing wear-in. He thinks the synth is too slick for bearings.

He also said to expect 10-20% gain in output on the dyno after a few thousand miles when the motor loosens up. I just picked up a G8 rental with 8 miles on it (this happens all the time so I make sure to do a proper break in because cars have a soul). It pulled significantly harder after 2 3-hour highway cruises in my butt-dyno 0-60. The motor didn't want to spin like it did after a few hundred miles.

I previously got my information from one of the threads here and read more about it from this link:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Two weeks flew by and we've been busy and caught up in our daily lives that this project was put on hold but it's back with a few important updates. I'll let the pictures do the work.


Transmission needed cleaning badly
Attachment 211143
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Brake/parts cleaner and wire brush
Attachment 211145

Engine on stand with turbo components and mocked up 2.5 downpipe thats getting redone thanks to Brad!
Attachment 211146
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One of the most important accomplishments
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The motor should be up and running ::crossfingers:: this weekend if weather permits. Motor will be broken in NA and then turboed after.

Check list of things left to do:
-driveshaft
-radiator/fans
-extend wiring
-fluids/plugs
-body panels
...and other knick knacks




Question: I relooped my powersteering lines but could someone tell me where they sourced these red plugs(off steering rack) or another option to enclose both holes?
Attachment 211151

A HUGE HUGE thanks goes to Brad *na3turbo* for helping me with this swap :giggle:


Thanks to Ben who also came over this week to lend a hand.

just put a bolt in those holes with a washer. they don't need to keep any pressure or seal in any oil, you just lube the rack a little and the bolts are there to keep dust/dirt out.

P.S. don't loop the lines, take it apart while you have easy access and cut off the seal inside.

Looks great. Super jealous..

Videos when broken in and turbo'd!

Dude please keep up the progress, very nice indeed...
My engine bay is FILTHY & overcrowded....once I have things sorted out I hope I'll get it looking like this...

X2
its pretty easy to take the rack apart and cut/beat out the inner seal, then if you look on my build thread i just cut the lines and crimped the small ones. for the biggers ones i but a rubber cap on with a zip tie

gl on the build

Thanks for all of the comments, more updates to follow.

It's been a month- whats the update?

Are you going to reinforce the squares you have cut out for the wiring?

I cant get over how much better the transmission looks.
I repainted under my hood red; after looking at yours I wish I would have painted mine black.
It is looking good keep the updates coming

Good luck getting your car running tonight.
After a long build like this you have to be excited!
Mark

Update!! About fcuking time. No more dealing with weddings, bad weather, lack of fuel in the S.E. region, laziness (fishing), and other festivities. But lets have a look see on where the previous motor fell on its face:

You can see where the woodruff key did the damage and the indentation on the crank/pulley:
Attachment 210651
Attachment 210652

Mangled woodruff key
Attachment 210653
Attachment 210654

Now back to the build, literally one problem after another. First we had a hard time getting the car to turn over thinking it was the battery since it has been sitting 8+ months. Ruled that out and had a look at the starter. Look around and found the ground strap to be torn off. A trip to Autozone, $7 dollars, and 15 minutes later problem solved. With everything checked off the list and fluids topped off, we turned over the motor to get adequate oil pressure. Connected the fuel injectors, Turn the key, and she starts on the first CRANK! ;)

Let her idle and started to check the timing. Problem #2. Mechanically and ear wise, it sounded spot on. The timing gun read other wise. It was advanced something retarded, 50+ degrees. Looking at this, we both thought wth so we started messing with the CAS to get it closer to TDC but the closer the mark got, the more the motor wanted to choke. Cut off the motor, ripped the valve cover, front engine plates, and double checking the timing. Everything is spot on. Brad takes off the crank pulley and checks the timing mark. Goes and compares to my previous motors pulley and look what we found:

Attachment 210655

The markings were off, which stumped us on why would Mazda have two differnt pulleys. Installed my original crank pulley, put back all the necessities, check timing, and its SPOT ON THE MONEY. TDC!! :eek5: :bowrofl: Timing is set, cut off the motor and forgot we had to bleed the clutch...PROBLEM #3. After 10 minutes of pumping/bleeding, there was still no pressure. Checked on the clutch cylinder just to find out it failed and that is where we are at kiddies. Mother nature is also taking a shit on my parade for the next two days so no go until this friday. Visiting family in VA this weekend also.

Taken 5 minutes ago
Attachment 210656
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Parts sitting
Braineacks MS with EBC:
Attachment 210658

PnP 550cc injectors:
Attachment 210659

225/45 rs2's:
Attachment 210660

NB top hats- no picture


Immediate things to do list:
-Install new clutch cylinder and bleed it
-Retuck wiring under drivers fender
-Reinstall interior (passenger seat, harnesses, etc)

Turbo install to come within the month at the latest I hope. :giggle:

It seems like you are doing your build the right way. I like where you're going with this. Keep us posted!

Thanks!

A break in the weather today and got a chance to put in the new clutch slave cylinder. Bleed it and took it for a drive around the neighborhood and eventually the highway. No hiccups or problems so far. Car is loud, and deep. Sounds pretty good actually, neighbors must be pissed. :giggle: