Not too bad, looks like that cart was a good lesson.

Okay, the engine is prepped as far as I can get it without having the BP pulled. Pictures for anyone who is doing this themselves. There are a few finicky bits, but the LNF turbo bolts up to the LE5 beautifully. I just had to tap a drain line into a spot on the block that looks absolutely designed for the purpose. I especially love how compact everything is. That's the kind of fitment you can only really get with OEM parts, all cast and heat shielded and designed to go 200k miles.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b134f121e5.jpgTo delete PS and AC, use the belt off a '05 Cavalier without AC (IIRC) and you are good to go. Everything else stays the same.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e54787f9d2.jpg70mm eBay special throttle body. Only took a little porting of the LE5 intake manifold, and a bit of bolt hole enlarging on the TB to make it fit. This allows me to keep the cable actuated throttle for ease of install and MS tuning.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...64313c8b88.jpgNext up is to bolt on the transmission adapter plate, modified miata flywheel, and FM clutch. I may need a clutch upgrade down the line, but at that point I'd probably need a beefier transmission anyway.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c33da10114.jpgThe turbo comes with a stock electronic boost control valve
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d493cbfd1.jpgFitment on the starter motor is insanely tight. I can probably fit a single sheet of paper, just barely. When it heats up it will probably touch and make some annoying sounds. I don't think it will be catastrophic though, but I'm all ears if anyone thinks it's worth grinding away some space on the motor mounts.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f26cd2a05b.jpgOil drain. I had to cut away some space on the motor mounts, but it's a non-critical spot. The drain taps very nicely into the block.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...97d512dfcd.jpgThis is the thermostat housing from an LNF, which makes space for the turbo, plus the ecotecmiata spacers to make space for the transmission.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a91906e027.jpgNice an compact. Should fit just fine. I'm attempting to do a 3.5 inch to 3 inch downpipe, since the turbo outlet is 3.5 inches.

I really enjoy that little clip on the wastegate actuator nuts.

The things those GM engineers think of!

^ Is that starter stud going to get a little "sparky"? That'll ruin your day.

I figure all the metal on the starter is grounded to the chassis except the positive terminal, which has some space around it... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

isn't this little snail made by borg?

Indeed! A well-engineered quick spooling little snail, capable of several horsepowers.

More starter pics:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...205f4ce663.jpgPositive terminal is in open air
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...29c038ba10.jpgthe bolt that's likely to touch connects to metal that connects to the block

Sorry, pic made it look way close. Others show way space. Carry on... nice!

You can always be extra safe and put a rubber boot/isolator on it

I'm very eager to see your downpipe routing.

That makes two of us!

Start saving for that V8R subframe...

The starter won't make annoying noises, if it hits the motor mount, they all move together. I doubt they'll be much vibration on a beefy starter like that. At least ours didn't in 20min of testing before the oil pan cracked.

My swap is going to be slightly delayed while I figure out whether I can manage some inspection related challenges or just bail and keep the car as track only for a while.

But anyway, the TB I'm using doesn't have an IAC. I'm eyeing the early VW valve for its self-containedness and simplicity. Any other suggestions?

This is the VW valve:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a0edf7ca85.jpg
Two wires. two holes. Easy.

And this is another type:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d7f8eee01.jpgOEM replacement part on a Ferrari, so it must be fast.

You can make a plate to do this with the miata valve.

https://www.miataturbo.net/bellengineering-miata-accessories-31/begi-bell-engineering-groups-terrible-intake-manifold-87081/#post1294307

That's pretty cool! I'll do that. Saves me from a) buying anything and b) figuring out something new.

Very little progress. I had an unexpected curve ball in the shape of an off-cycle smog requirement. I did a sketchy smog last year, and a whole bunch of sketchy smog shops we're raided. Now I have to take it to a referee. As in, the top of the smog system food chain. They scrutinized very intensely and even after a full return to stock the found some things to take issue with. I'm working through all that to get the stamp of approval before I pull the engine. Yay California...

Timeline update - after two tries I made it through the smog referee and can now drive my powerless car. I'm up for my next smog in December, so it doesn't make sense to do anything major like an engine swap right now, and I foolishly sold all my go fast BP bits. Between now and December I'm going to try to knock out as many little things as I can. And since I can't do any major work on the car right now, I decided to spend my time and money on a lift.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39240edba5.jpg

I got a low miles steering rack and depowered it. I figured that would make it easier to do the depower and de-AC in one go since I need my car for transportation a couple times a week. I couldn't find any good guidance on welding the pinion so I just went for it. I ran my TIG at 165 amps and used 3/32 filler rod. I laid it down in 3 beads and did a second pass over 1/3 that didn't penetrate well enough. I also dipped the bearings in water after each bead so they didn't get messed up. If I did it again I'd drop the amperage to 150 so I could go slower and use 1/16 rod for a finer final bead. Still, came out well enough that I'll trust my life to it...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d755c77385.jpg