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Regarding your fuel economy, look into increasing the ignition timing in your cruise cells. There are some threads about the stock timing having 40° or more for lean cruise and some posts of MS map screenshots.
i will have a look into these threads,before i start changing stuff without knowing what the consequenses are ( im still learning about ignition timing and stuff) D
So, today i gave the closed loop tuning thing a try again. For some reason the car doesn't rev beyond +/- 3500 rpm ish on WOT in 4th gear. I've put the boost protection at 210 kpa(spark and fuel cut just to be safe) ,checked the min/mx duty of my mac valve,and included a log to see if anyone can chime in on this.I tried multiple pulls over the day, with different settings but all still showed around 170kpa. I was thinking that maybe the accel enrichments were a cause of this, but after fiddling with those, nothing much changed.
I've read numerous threads like : https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...oop-ebc-94391/ but for some reason it doesn't seem to rev past the 3800+ rpm point. If i remove the EBC all together, and connect the vacuum line inbetween the wastegate and the compressor housing , all works fine. Does anyone have a clue whats going on ?
Does it rev up without load in neutral? If that works fine, my guess would be on spark blow out. What plugs and what plug gap do you run?
I didn't try revving the car to redline in neutral tho.I did however , had a look at the spark gap. It showed 0,9mm and what i've seen here shows that it would need to be around 0.7mm .Strangely enough, kpa showed a 10 kpa increase under boost after this change. but it still blowing out at about the same RPM. I tried new plugs, gapped those, and the issue still persisted. The second thing i tried is swapping the ignition cables for a different set i had laying around, which also didnt change anything.
Could it be a possibilty that i just don't get a strong enough spark ?
I just had a look at your logs, is your wideband reading correctly? Because you are way to rich, it may just be misfiring from being too rich.
Also: can you post your spark map?
I just had a look at your logs, is your wideband reading correctly? Because you are way to rich, it may just be misfiring from being too rich.
Also: can you post your spark map?
Sure, im glad you're chiming in on this
The wideband is reading correctly and matches up with the Tunerstudio gauge. I hav no clue on how to alter the spark map yet, so i didnt change anything on this spark map. I used the trubokitty default spark settings
Last edited by Quarkie; Oct 6, 2019 at 08:53 AM.
Reason: wrong file
Sure, im glad you're chiming in on this
The wideband is reading correctly and matches up with the Tunerstudio gauge. I hav no clue on how to alter the spark map yet, so i didnt change anything on this spark map. I used the trubokitty default spark settings
From your logs it looks like your timing is fixed at 10 degrees, it looks like it is not following the map, so please check your settings.
From your logs it looks like your timing is fixed at 10 degrees, it looks like it is not following the map, so please check your settings.
You were right, i forgot to put the timing back to 'use table' . The car feels alot more alive now.. I double checked if the timing was still correct and it was. In the meantime i ordered some stuff for the diy COP conversion after reading trough those threads,so i'll get a package from the US soon.
Is there something else i can check? I'm very eager to find out what other things can be done to get this working. ( The car was still hitting the same boost spike at around the same rpm but actually showed ignition events now)
Is there something else i can check? I'm very eager to find out what other things can be done to get this working. ( The car was still hitting the same boost spike at around the same rpm but actually showed ignition events now)
Plenty of things to go wrong. Position sensors and trigger circuit in the ECU. Boost creep causing overboost. Too rich / too lean. Spark blow out.
You are not too far from my place (Utrecht), I will send you a PM.
Thank you Dawan, i checked my pm's and sent you one back
More 3d printing incoming!I got myself a 2nd 3d printer so i was trying out some files. The detail is... amazing.Im still wondering how parts made with this resin printer will react to sunlight, because they cure trough UV,but i'll find out when i fit a resin printed part in the car i guess.
Found this file online, it came straight out the printer like this. No work was done, except for removing some support material.
So, back to 3d printing car parts. Well, i only have this potato photo. The elbow rest was hitting my leg so i designed/printed a new handle. It's been on the door for about a year now, stil going strong.
Next designs which are on my list:
Thank you Dawan, i checked my pm's and sent you one back
More 3d printing incoming!I got myself a 2nd 3d printer so i was trying out some files. The detail is... amazing.Im still wondering how parts made with this resin printer will react to sunlight, because they cure trough UV,but i'll find out when i fit a resin printed part in the car i guess.
Found this file online, it came straight out the printer like this. No work was done, except for removing some support material.
So, back to 3d printing car parts. Well, i only have this potato photo. The elbow rest was hitting my leg so i designed/printed a new handle. It's been on the door for about a year now, stil going strong.
Next designs which are on my list:
Forget the door pull, I want one of those Xenomorphs.
A few more print ideas: Antenna delete plug, windshield squirter plugs, your own version of a cool breeze wind scoop
So, after a few months of tinkering i did some things
- rocker cover seal was replaced because of oil seeping out
- diy coil on plugs, by following that long interesting thread ( because it's better to do it correctly once, right ?)
I had a MAJOR issue with overboosting under full load.So, it seems that the stock td04 wastegate was ... not up for it.
I bought a kinugawa one,and fitted it with a (IIRC) .5 bar spring. It's a quality piece which comes with 6 different spring rates.So, i managed to spike at 15 psi as you can see in below screenshot, with boost cut on 200 kpa,at 4999 rpm (although its advised to run a stock 1.6 at about 12psi max).
I turned down the manual boost controller to 12 psi and now i can finally floor it without hitting overboost in any gear. It got me a lot of thumbs up at the stoplights Don't worry,i know an EBC gives better response, its allready under the hood. Just needs to be plumbed correctly and all that.
Well, that was fun, and my block didnt spill it's guts
Also, i've read trough the spark advance thread regarding fuel economy. Fuel economy didnt change much since i altered the Trubokitty -spark map, although i'm running high 16's during cruise now.Does it have anything to do with injector spray pattern(yellow tops),compared to EV 14's, or am i just rambling right now ?
And yes,i've programmed pops and bangs into it because i'm a big child I've tried it without the 'bang' part of the map and the fuel mileage again didn't change much. It's at 23mpg right now and on the highway i reach 28 mpg. Non turbo i could easily reach 500 km on a full tank, so im trying to figure out what's causing this.
Since i didn't make det-cans, this is the farthest i dared to go with the timing.
The spark timing you see below is what i've used for months now.
Feel free to chime in, im always in for constructive criticism.
So,ivé been busy again prototyping stuff in the past months, and just passed the yearly MOT thing here.
The car is still running strong on my DIY manifold at 15PSI.
I got bored of the standard gauge vent, so i designed a new one. It's fully tiltable like the old one.
When i'm done with the prototype phase, these will likely be offered for sale( i still need some people to test these out tho
I had a movie of my other design, but the attachment doesnt seem to work, so you'll have to do with pictures for now.
PLA is not the best suitable material for this, but for prototyping it's actually fine. The white part is printed in PETG and is made to withstand quite some heat. All the same design, just different materials