I see numbers on a spring.....that is all.

Nuh uhh...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d3602d0dd.jpg

Def on the ground. Very, very close to the ground I might add...

I am very confused. What the hell is going on here?

Gordon is working on the clubroadster lifestyle, waiting for the delivery of his new stance 6ULs.

--Ian

G, u good man? The guy that has the quietest exhaust on the planet just slammed his car.......wut?

Is the turbo on?

2.5" at the pinch weld is what's going on here. Get on my level, breh
A rite-hite this classy requires something a little more quality, like Rotas, or American Racing or 'RAVS'
Now it's full Racing Beat stem to stern. My only regret at this point is not having bought the dual tip model. Such class, much wow.
NA is best! Boost just destroys the balance of the car. Just you wait, you'll see.

Actualee, you see, it is because, you need reboluchuns brrro!

The only thing I see is a mismatched front bumper. Now I can't unsee it.

:dealwithit:

There is a gap between the front tire and fender

this is unacceptable

what are you, offroading it now?

Offroading? That car would end up a teeter totter 1/2 way into my garage.

That's the reflection.

the fact that it would have enough room to teeter totter is already indicative of being way too high


needs moar low.

lol, it has more than enough low :giggle:

I sold my FCMs and picked up some used Xidas. I'm in love, so much win :likecat:

The only complication right now is I can't get the ride height I was expecting, but the seller indicated that he may have given me the wrong set of springs for the rear. Being the doofus I am I didn't look at the PN or measure anything before I installed them, so I'll check it tonight and see what's up.

I really like the xidas. Like, really really. But I need to stop driving the car until I can get the ride height thing sorted out. I haven't decided if I'm going to post about it here, or start another thread.

But because I touched something, now I have to fix something else. :facepalm: My ball joints are super loose. Like, work them around with your finger loose. They aren't floppy and clicky yet, but it does not take much effort to move them around. Sigh. And because I have an NB, instead of $30 replacement MOOG ball joints or whatever, I have to replace the whole FUCA. Goddammit. The other option is of course something massively overkill like the V8R uppers, but I don't have money to burn at the moment so that isn't happening. Yes V8R makes a replaceable ball joint for the NB arm, but each one is only $20 than replacing the whole arm. Ungh. I pulled the boots and skooged some Dominator into the ball joints and reassembled until I can afford to buy some new FUCAs. I'm not really driving the car right now anyway so fuckit, I just wanted it back on the ground.

Then I drove it anyway. lol. I put new suspension on it, why would I NOT drive it? Today I switched back to the WRX it feels like I'm driving a tank. Even though I have the heaviest NB1 on the planet, in comparison to the Subaru it feels super light and nimble and almost aggressive. The higher rate springs, bigger sways and smaller 195 tires make it super duper responsive. At this point I'm a set of bushings away from the "949 Big Grip Kit" and I completely understand why everyone loves that combination so much. I can't wait to get off my ass and get the ES poly + SadFAP bronze retrofit installed. Its gun be gud :party:

did you fix the stem/oil issue? I'm curious how your car runs without extra port lubrication lol

as in, how much more boost would it handle without blowing out the spark when the charge isn't diluted :D

Is there a way to rebuild you ball joints? like, properly.

I think its fixed. I need to do some more driving and confirm, but that's going to be held up for a bit while I work out the suspension thing.

Wait, I had spark blowing out?!

Not really. There are no good solutions to this problem. By "good" I mean "inexpensive and functional." I consider a pair of replacement $30 MOOG ball joints (like you can buy for an NA, and almost any other car on earth) to meet this requirement. Unfortunately, because the ball joint is riveted into the FUCA from the factory, MOOG would take on a significant amount of liability telling people to change out the rivets for some sort of bolt and nut fasteners, so they don't bother doing it.

The V8R replacement ball joints are pretty much the only option: V8 Roadsters adjustable/rebuildable front upper control arm ball joints ($150/pr)
But then you get to grind the rivets off the control arms to remove the fuckered ball joints, press the V8R ones into the old arms and pray nothing cracks or shears off, then tack weld them in place because lol? Plus you get to resuse your old, dirty, bent control arms!

OOOooooorrrrr....

For $350 I can buy V8R tubular FUCAs with fancy V8R ball joints: V8 Roadsters control arms - tubular Steel

OOOooooorrrrr....

For a measly $950 I can buy V8R Billet FUCAs with fancy V8R ball joints: V8 Roadsters X-Lite Billet Aluminum Control Arms

OOOooooorrrrr....

For $215 I can buy a pair of new OEM arms loaded with new OEM ball joints and new OEM rubber bushings that will probably go another 120k/mi (if I can stay off the curbing) for $215 from Mazdacomp.

OOOooooorrrrr....

There are a smattering of complete FUCA and ball joint combinations out there: DORMAN 524465 ($43.79/ea) MEVOTECH CMS80174/CMS80175 ($44.79/ea) MAS CB65027/CB65028 ($81.79/ea) but I'm not sure I trust Dorman or whomever Mevotech is to make a ball joint AND control arm AND bushing set for $44. As far as MAS goes, I don't know who the hell they are, but that's within ~$25 of the OEM price.

I think I'm going to buy OEM ones. :giggle:

I believe anything past 18psi resulted in it breaking up, I wonder if it would take 20psi without the extra oil

Huh. Well, there shouldn't have been any oil in the intake side, they were never leaking AFAIK. I thought that was because I'm lame and still on the stock 99-00 coils?