IT RUNS! :skid:
N/A for the break-in miles. Plus I need to get it inspected first.

It looks a bit more like a car now:
Attachment 235021

I also found out the gas gauge doesn't work.
Attachment 235022

Doing the same. Breaking in the clutch, tires, and brakes, plus smog inspection before I can actually install the fun parts. So boring to have no boost lol.

Its definitely slow but I'm just happy to have it driving again. It's been almost two years since I drove a Miata. After I get a new battery I'll be able to start driving it to work, and start figuring out any small issues that come up (like that gas gauge).

I'm really just crossing my fingers and hoping the motor stays in one piece. Never built an engine before. The first 15 miles have been fine though!

Awesome recovery/build.

GLORY

Reppin' (thanks Lars)

I figured I might as well become a supporter now too. All the info here helped me tremendously over the course of this build.

How do you make sure the rings seat properly under boost if you don't break it in under boost?

Ring seating doesn't change with boost, but if you seat rings under boost, you'll end up with a bunch of oil all over the place.

So on your built EFR motors, you recommend to completelystay out of boost for proper break in?

My motor customers get a highly detailed procedure to follow for break-in, as well as four quarts of Amsoil's break-in oil to be used during that time.

I followed FM's break-in procedure (https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php) and used SAE 30 weight conventional oil (Pennzoil). They recommend staying out of boost as well.
Changed oil immediately after seating the rings on the first drive (5-10 miles?), changed again at 100 miles, I'll change it again at 500, and again at 1000. I'll switch to synthetic sometime after that.

So my car was stumbling on left turns, starting at around 1/4 tank of gas left. Also, my fuel gauge didn't work. I started to investigate this and WOW! - What a can of worms. I think the pictures speak for themselves.

Attachment 235010
Attachment 235011
Attachment 235012

No wonder the gauge didn't work, PO is lucky this thing didn't explode when this happened. No idea what he did.
Attachment 235013

Attachment 235014

New (old, from the black car) gas/pump:

Attachment 235015
Attachment 235016
Attachment 235017
Attachment 235018

New stainer and fuel filter too, no pics though.

Also detailed!

Attachment 235019
Attachment 235020

Ready to hit Cars & Coffee in Bethlehem, PA tomorrow morning.

Time for megasquirtin'. I wanted to get a MS3x, and probably still will eventually, but kind of fell into a MSPNP2 a few weeks ago. A buddy blew his engine, and I had a spare (the original engine to this Montego car, that was smokin' earlier in this thread). He happened to have an MSPNP2 he wasn't using. Straight trade, longblock for the MS.

So I started to install the Megasquirt, and I quickly got frustrated trying to fish wires. I took the dash out to save some headache. It's really easy after the first few times.

Attachment 235004

I've been using these cute uninsulated crimp/butt connectors, then covering with heatstrink. I think it looks pretty clean - way better than those huge plastic insulated ones. Still need to grab a proper crimper though.
You can see I tried to stagger these (this is the wiring for the AEM UEGO) so the bundle of wire doesn't get too fat from the crimps overlapping.

Attachment 235005

Annnnd I'm not totally sure what happened here. I pulled this from the wrecked car which has been sitting for almost 2 years. Shorted? Rusted? Donno.
I bought a new one and it should be here shortly. For the time being I have a closed-element sensor that will work.

Attachment 235006
Attachment 235007

Starting to look like home again! Ricey!

Attachment 235008

MSPNP2 booted up. Didn't start it yet because I want to double check my firmware and I also have NO idea what tune is on this thing. I'll probably overwrite it with a basemap for a clean start.

Attachment 235009

That where I'm at for the moment. Hopefully I'll get it running today. At some point I have to put my EV14 injectors in. It also still needs to be inspected..

Got a few more things done, prepping for the turbo now. Got the car inspected early last week, no issues whatsoever.
Got the GT500 650cc injectors in, changed req. fuel and it started right up.
Updated the firmware on the Megasquirt MSPNP2 to 3.4.2 and thought I broke it - turns out it was just me not reading the change notes. Made a thread about that but figured it out myself before anyone could call me a dummy (I'll take that as a win).
Pulled the intercooler and piping out of the old car and cleaned it up. Pulled the R-style lip off the old car too, I'll clean that up and put it on this one eventually.

Since my trackspeed downpipe should be here sometime next week, I started mocking up the turbo. I clocked the compressor a ton to point it in toward the engine which is sweet because.. anyone coming from a FM kit to the Trackspeed EFR kit - it looks like the silicone intercooler piping will work with little/no modification. At least on the pre-intercooler side. I also don't have PS/AC getting in the way, either. I still need to clock the center section so the drain is on the bottom.

I also cut the 'ear' off the 5-speed, since that needs to be removed for the downpipe to fit per the trackspeed thread.

Pics:
inspected ;)
Attachment 234995
nub:
Attachment 234996
no nub:
Attachment 234997
FM intercooler & piping:
Attachment 234998
Attachment 234999
Attachment 235000
Attachment 235001

I'll be cutting this red piece instead of using the FM piece since I have a 99+ IAC (so it doesn't need a breather), BOV is integrated into the EFR, and the IAT is in the side of the intercooler.
Attachment 235002

Pretty:
Attachment 235003

Shit, AGAIN? Someone pulled out from a stop sign, right infront of me. In the market for another daily now..

Attachment 234991
Attachment 234992
Attachment 234993



At least my downpipe came, it's excellent
Attachment 234994

So I picked up a 2006 Mazda 3 as a daily. It's got 165k on it, but has held up decent. I like it but it burns a shitload more oil than I was expecting. Probably 1 qt/1000 miles. Might have to sell it for something else because of that. We'll see how much it bothers me when I have to put a qt of oil in every other tank of gas..

Attachment 234989
Attachment 234990

Sounds like you got the super rare 2006 RX-3 hatchback. The oil burning is standard.

Ugh. I knew the oil burning was pretty common on these, so I kinda knew what I was getting into. The guy claimed it only burned 1 qt between 3k mile oil changes, which isn't all that bad. I kinda just believed him without a second thought. Oh well, I'm not out any money on the exchange (they gave me more than I paid for the Protege to replace it).

Anywho, back to Miata things. I got the downpipe sometime last month and the fitup wasn't that great in my chassis. After some emails back and forth with Andrew @ Trackspeed, it may be something with the AWR style "supermiata" motor mounts. I imagine it's incredibly hard to anticipate every single subframe/motor mount difference, plus chassis changes between the years, plus any chassis tweaking over time (my chassis has 180k on it).

Either way, I got it to fit by cutting a bit of the shelf, bashing a bit of the chassis in, and adding a few dents to the downpipe. It still rattles right around 3500-4000 RPM but I think a few more millimeters with a sledge and that should be fixed.

Fitup on the water lines was really good, I'm not running a front water neck so they look a BIT goofy sticking so far forward, not a big deal at all though.

I salvaged what I could from my old exhaust to make a turndown just after the rear subframe. It's SUPER loud. So building a new exhaust is definitely on the to-do list. Probably dual center exit, cause why not.

Attachment 234978
Attachment 234979
Attachment 234980

Attachment 234981
Attachment 234982

Current cold side intercooler routing. Not running the AC fan yet. Hasn't been an issue so far, might be over the summer
Attachment 234983

L O U D
Attachment 234984

New plugs - NGK BKR8EIX - I like em.
Attachment 234985

Added heat:
Attachment 234986

Here's how she sits right now. Repping Miataturbo on the quarter winder.

Attachment 234987
Attachment 234988

Upcoming: Real tires cause it shreds these all-seasons through second gear. Running out of injectors at the top end, probably overdue on a fuel pump (stock currently) and FPR.

It's probably time to consider safety gear since it's properly fast at ~12 psi. Roll bar, taller seats, maybe harnesses? Probably not. I think I want to stay with stock 3pt and lotus seats (or similar).

Check PPF height per FSM. That will affect exhaust fit.

Your turbo is clocked too far counterclockwise based on fitment of water lines, FYI

Yaknow, that does make sense. I'll have to clock it clockwise and move the wastegate actuator over. That's how I had it originally, and I moved it for some reason.

Good tip, I'll double check. I did it quickly when I installed the motor originally but I'm sure things have "settled" since then. I'll check it again.

Check the webstore for instructions, there's a photo in the instructions that shows where the WG actuator bracket should be mounted in relation to the oil feed.

Lol, another ~6 month gap in updates. To catch up to present time, I put about ~600 miles on the car with the turbo installed. Very impressed with everything, I've had almost no issues. That's about 1600 miles on the engine total, so far.

I installed the AC delete hose a few months ago:
Attachment 234969

Got some cool stuff for Christmas from my girlfriend. Revlimiter oil cap and a rechargable/hangable LED work light, it's sweet!

Attachment 234970
Attachment 234971
Attachment 234972

I also dropped my transmission thinking I had a rear main seal leak.. but I should have looked around before diving in. I'm pretty sure its just the CAS o ring, or potentially the valve cover gasket.

Looks dry!
Attachment 234973

Looks to be dripping onto the reroute spacer:
Attachment 234974

And dripping onto the transmission..
Attachment 234975

I also ordered a blackbird fabworx roll bar, should be here soon after some mixups.

Lastly, with some help from a buddy we fabricated a 3" into (2) 2.5" exhaust. Sounds very mellow and civilized at low rpm. A bit droney right at 3k. MUCH quieter than the straight pipe dumping at the rear subframe that I had before.
Bumper is just rough cut (tin snips for a quick cut, I'll finalize with a little dremel cutoff wheel soon) Check it:
Attachment 234976
Attachment 234977

Digging the center exit exhaust! Car will be proper mean with the BF Roll Bar installed!

Thanks man! I'll definitely post some pictures after the roll bar install. Should be in the next week or two depending one when I can get help. For the moment, here's a sweet picture of Bethlehem Cars & Coffee from Sunday, it was huge, something like 2,000 cars over the course of the day.

Attachment 234968

:D

Attachment 234966

Attachment 234967

heh, updates? I did eventually get that roll bar in ;)

Attachment 234961
Attachment 234962

Dual exhaust, the center exit was way too droney.

Attachment 234963

Fixed the leaky boundry engineering front crank seal

Attachment 234964

And installed a tablet for Spotify / Navigation / Gauges

Attachment 234965

See ya in another year

Can you update us on what you did for DP fitment? Did the PPF adjustment work? I am having the same issue.

Also, what lower radiator hose are you using for clearance with the hot side FM lower IC pipe?

Bro deetzzz on the tablet? That looks fantastic!

What engine mounts are you using? I have a feeling it has something to do with engine mounts. I'm using the Supermiata "hybrid" mounts. Anyway, I ended up just smacking the shit out of the downpipe, and then beating in some of the trans tunnel. My downpipe is pretty ovaled from hitting it. It fits fine now, though.

Sure man, It's a Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8" 32 GB, using an app called AutoMate. It runs to a Sound Ordnance M100-2 100W x 2 amp that is mounted behind the glovebox. It sounds pretty good. I mounted the tablet with two simple aluminum strips and some velcro.
But to be honest, it would have been way easier (and probably cost the same, maybe a little more) to just a get a double DIN Android head unit. Something that's Android Auto / Car Play compatible. I spent nearly $400 on this set up and it ends up overheating on warm days (80+ degrees, I don't have AC). I even put a fan behind it. I need to figure out a cooling solution for it.

Here's some pics of the project though:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HgYa7Y2BvMNYJkA6A

Damn, this is what I was worried about. I have the V8R mounts. I've already started beating the shit out of my firewall, but i think i will have to start bending up the DP as well.

What about the lower hose for the radiator ?

My bad I meant to answer you, I'm using FM's rad hose too.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-lower-radiator-hose.html

I had all of this leftover since I ran a FM turbo kit originally.

Thanks! ordered the hose.

That fuel tank/sender looked pretty scary. I would have been tempted to swap everything out.

Rollbar looks awesome!

Hello? Is this thing on?

I'm trying to rip around New Jersey Motorsports Park later this year at the Miata Reunion so I'm trying to track prep the car.

Sorry for the massive pics I don't remember how to scale them, lol


New fuel pump.
Attachment 234954

New pump wiring:
Attachment 234955

New regulator
Attachment 234956

Seats and harnesses:
Attachment 234957
(Not sure if theyre gonna fit pls see https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...9/ lol)



Oh and I bought a new daily in 2019. It was a 2018 leftover.

Attachment 234958
Attachment 234959
Attachment 234960

You changed those soft fuel lines going to the pump hanger while you were in there, righttt?

Love the hatch btw

Yaknow, I didn't. But its probably not a bad idea to replace those since theyre 25 years old at this point.