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Onyxyth 2.0 - Trackspeed EFR6258 Build
I'm gonna keep this intro post free of pictures, I'll post those later.
Basically my shit got wrecked, and I'm planning on buying a daily after the winter. Since I no longer have to daily the car, and will have more than just a weekend to work on it. Why not build & (more)boost? Current plan:
Goal is 280hp. We'll see how it works out. |
solid plan, should hit goal no problem.
I'd definitely look into a 99-00 head though, it's quite the improvement. 2860r is basically what you already have. do you mean RS? (tater) it all depends on your power goals and what you want your torque curve to look like. if I was building an engine again, I'd go bigger though. at least 2871 since it's really close to the tater in spool, but nets more topend. |
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Car totaled:
Attachment 235049 And I'm driving my beater winter car for the rest of the winter: Attachment 235050 It still looked presentable in that picture. That was almost 5 years ago, but I don't have any recent pictures. It's more rust than metal now. Love that car though. Onto teardown day 1.. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1181645)
solid plan, should hit goal no problem.
I'd definitely look into a 99-00 head though, it's quite the improvement. 2860r is basically what you already have. do you mean RS? (tater) it all depends on your power goals and what you want your torque curve to look like. if I was building an engine again, I'd go bigger though. at least 2871 since it's really close to the tater in spool, but nets more topend. I'm definitely looking at the 2871 as well. I'm hesitant on the 99-00 head just because of the investment. And partly ignorance. I'd need to get a different fuel rail, intake manifold, and probably other things, correct? Seems expensive, but I'm still going to keep an eye out for one. |
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Teardown day 1:
Started her up and drove into the garage... Still runs great and the exhaust sounds awesome. Made me a little sad thinking that's the last time it would ever start up in its current form. Attachment 235039 Part of the bumper/trunk actually is touching the tire (and not just the bumper cover - it's metal) so I'm pretty glad I got this towed originally (I was considering just driving it the ~3 miles home). Attachment 235040 Exhaust off, this was the only aftermarket part damaged in the accident. Really sucks, since it was installed pretty recently. Exhaust was bent forwad and down, kinking the midpipe and muffer elbow. The rear tow hook dented the muffler itself. Attachment 235041 Attachment 235042 Attachment 235043 Test pipe is OK I think, but everything else is scrap. Attachment 235044 Noticed the PPF was really close to the driveshaft while under the car, am I crazy or is it not usually this close? Totally possible this got bent. Attachment 235045 Attachment 235046 Attachment 235047 Hood off, rad removed, intake removed Attachment 235048 That's it for now, should have a bit more out tomorrow. |
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Originally Posted by Onyxyth
(Post 1181648)
discopotato. (where the fuck did that start?)
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Originally Posted by paNX2K&SE-R
(Post 1181686)
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^ Yeah I read that article shortly after I posted that.
Got a bit of work done yesterday night, as it was ~60 or so degrees out and pretty nice. Much better than 33 and snowing like tonight.. Got all of the wiring disconnected (I think/hope). Front harness for the tps, etc. Rear/under intake harness for alternator, starter, oil pressure. Also removed the injector harness and coils+bracket for some breathing room. Removed two passenger side bellhousing bolts to free all of the wiring that runs with the PPF and the clutch slave line. Got Power steering drained and disconnected from rack, A/C "Drained" and disconnected from compressor. Still have to disconnect fuel, and also drain the tank (full tank of 93, don't wanna waste that). I should be able to just run a line from the feed into a gas can, right? Then turn the key on, which should turn on the pump? amirite? Also built this: Attachment 235038 $48 at harbor freight. Not the nicest thing in the world, but it should work fine. Booked up this weekend, most likely will pull the motor next Saturday. |
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As planned, motor is out. I ended up having to remove the transmission first to give myself a little more room. Probably wasn't 100% needed but I didn't feel like fussing with it too much.
Teardown should begin tomorrow.. Probably going to put the 2560, fm manifold & downpipe up for sale pretty soon. Not really sure where to price it yet though. The Reveant MS2 will most likely be sold, as well as the Artech 3" test pipe (since that's the only exhaust bit that didn't get kinked in the accident). Classified ads to come in the next few days.. A few boring pictures: Attachment 235035 Attachment 235036 Attachment 235037 Harbor friend hoist + engine stand worked pretty well! |
Accident blows. I was rear ended just this past week so I feel you. Thankfully the damage wasn't substantial. Just marks on my rear bumper from the person's license plate and front end. Still sucks though coz I just had the car resprayed by Maaco this year.
Hopefully we can work something out on the FM setup so I can fund your goals. |
If you are thinking about going with the GT2860, I'd recommend a slight shift and go with the Precision 4828. Blaen99 is seeing some rather tremendous numbers out of it and believes he is nowhere near the ceiling. (he is at 348whp, 280lb/ft)
I have the same turbo and am pretty happy with it but I do not have a built bottom end. |
I've been following that thread, it looks really promising.
I'm not sure that turbo is in my budget though, I'm looking more in the range of used 2860s, 2871's. unless you want to sell yours ;) |
Ahh, I had the idea you were buying new for some reason. Full-race.com lists a GT2860 at $1,186 and I see the 4828 at $1,449 list price. I'm sure you could chop a few bucks off of those numbers.
My point is though that that is not even $300 difference. To me it seems like money well spent. |
^^I'll have to look into a bit more, we'll see how the budget works out
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Yeah, buy the the turbo close to last... (IMO)
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So I know literally 3 days ago I said I didn't have the budget for a new turbo. However now that I'm starting at my Paypal account and Fab9's price of ~$1,450 for a EFR 6258 I'm seriously considering it.
Would this be total overkill for 300 hp goals? |
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Big new. New car!
Picked this up yesterday as a non-runner. PO said it would crank but not start and wasn't sure of the issue. Everything seemed to check out, it's got minimal rust, hardtop, tan leather interior, 182k on the body but apparently recently repainted. It's got one of FM's suspension kits w/ springs, shocks, sways and what looks like adjustable links, so that's cool. Today I dove into to figure out the no start issue. It looks like it was getting fuel. Checked spark and didn't get anything from either coil. Checked for power at the coils, that checked out OK. Checked for power at the CAS, OK. Checked for pulse from the CAS - nothin. Bad CAS? pulled it out and spin it by hand, heard the injectors fire, saw pulse on the multimeter. So the CAS is good. After poking around with various other ideas, it dawned on me that the position of the CAS keyway hadn't really changed even though I cranked the motor quite a few times. Ended up pulling the valve cover and sure enough.. broken timing belt. So, easy fix and it should be in running condition. I'd like to get the chassis up and running so I can make sure I don't have to troubleshooting anything wiring/harness related while also trying to break in an engine & tune a new megasquirt. Anyway. PICS. I guess I forgot to get any of the inside/engine, oh well. Attachment 235031 Attachment 235032 Attachment 235033\ Attachment 235034 |
Very nice! Should be back turbo powered in no time. (if that's what you want)
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Some lame updates:
1. It's been cold as shit. 2. Bought timing kit for the blue car. 3. Finally got around to getting the black car back on stock suspension so I could roll it out of the garage. I pulled a few other things off it as well. 4. Pushed the blue car into the garage to get it running. I'll probably get it registered & inspected and drive it for a week or so to make sure everything is in working order. Kind of pre-build shakedown. I also want to see how the FM suspension + sways feel compared to the Megans/stock sways. 4x4 Miata lol Attachment 235029 I'd also like to clean up this mess before getting started: Attachment 235030 |
I'm also considering keeping stock pistons to save a few dollars, and use that to pick up an EFR 6258. Like, really really considering it.
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Minor updates..
I bought a daily! No more driving that red Celica. I get to putt around in a 2000 Mazda Protege. 119k, 5 speed - pretty good condition, some rust on the wheel well but that's not uncommon, it'll need a clutch soon too so I'll have to look into that. Pics: Attachment 235027 Attachment 235028 Hopefully I can start to tear into the new Miata this weekend to start on the timing belt. I got the parts almost a month ago. It's finally going to be above 30 degrees for the first time in weeks. |
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Some updates. Things are moving along slowly. I did the timing belt I mentioned above and...
Well, it ran ok. Smokes like hell, smelled like coolant. Tons of top end tick. Probably a HG issue. Whatever, I don't really feel like digging into it, I was going to drive this in stock form while building the engine but I'll have to be patient. Popped the fenders and bumper off to reroute some wires, and clean up the engine bay. Found some rust but it should be fairly easy to fix. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 Tore apart the head. It looks pretty good for ~130k miles. Made a box inside a box to keep everything organized. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 Ghetto testing the valves with water. Basically filling the runners with water and seeing if it makes it past the valves. Almost every valve leaked, so I'll be getting a 3 angle valve job at the machine shop. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 Annnnnnnd block is bare. I bent the main bearing support plate a bit removing the oil pan.. the oil pump was stuck more than I was expecting. It should be easy enough to fix, I didn't grab pictures of that though. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 Here's how the main bearings looked. I guess I forgot to take a picture of one. Either way they're in pretty good shape and I expect to be able to use standard size bearings. Machine shop will tell me for sure. pictures of the crank side, I'll get some this weekend. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430355584 Next up: Find proper machine shop, get pistons and fasteners, bring everything to the machine shop for cleanup/boring/valve job. Then build. |
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I briefly went over the crank today with a digital caliper (haven't bought a micrometer yet). This thing can only measure to the thousandths place, but will put a "5" when it's in between thousandths. Almost all journals measured 1.965(5)".
#1 and 2 were dead on, but 3, 4 and 5 I'll have to check again with a mic as there may be some taper/ovality. Service manual says standard spec is 1.9661-1.9667. This is below that by a thousandth or so (or .0006 if you believe the (5) the caliper spits out). Next spec for oversized bearings is 1.9569-1.9570 which I'm pretty far away from. Obviously these are rough measurements since it's not measuring the ten thousandths place, but does anything look worrysome here? I should be able to use standard size bearings, yah? Just might be about a thousandths loose? Attachment 235026 |
Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
What did your crank measure, and what bearings are you using? |
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Ordered a 1"-2" micrometer to get solid crank measurements.
Spoke with the machine shop which I have some questions about but I'll throw that in my other thread. Sold the wheels from my old Celica - Enkei 92's 14x7 +/- 0 4x114.3. Made some cash from that. The guy and his buddy drove 2 hours up from Delaware in a Miata to pick them up - they're going on a Celica Supra. Attachment 235025 Part collection is starting... These came today thanks to mrryanbaker. BNIB Wiseco 8.5:1 CR 84mm pistons. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1431558300 |
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Parts..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432951344 Next up: order bearings. ACLs have been out of stock and after reading this thread it looks like KINGs may be a good option. Then I need to get my ass to the machine shop. |
Bolt the crank on with clean dry bearings and plasti gauge. It's the best way to check oil clearances. If your mic measurements come out similar to your caliper measurements, you're fine.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1236102)
Bolt the crank on with clean dry bearings and plasti gauge. It's the best way to check oil clearances. If your mic measurements come out similar to your caliper measurements, you're fine.
Measurements: #5 (closest to trans) ended up being a bit bigger than all the other journals. Does that say anything about how the motor was running? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433627532 Either way the engine build is on halt for a few weeks because I hopped on the group buy for the Trackspeed EFR kit (Awesome!). So I'll be doing chassis/wiring (read: cheap things) in the meantime. Mostly cleaning and painting things. Got the harnesses out of the engine bay today and removed the interior. This will make wiring for the WBO2/MS/gauges a ton easier. I also need to get a new speedo cable, trim up the harnesses since I'm removing things, and clean the fuck out the dirty ass carpet. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433627532 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433627532 I also pulled the top up on this thing for the first time ever.. real happy with the condition of this. PO wasn't lying when he said it was recently replaced. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433627532 |
Wreck and Rebuild a.k.a. Onyxyth build 2.0
Any suggestions for cleaning/degreasing the engine bay? I have access to a power washer, any ideas on how to seal up the firewall holes?
Maybe that's overkill and some spray degreaser and a brush would be fine.. |
Subbed! (I was linked via reddit)
Do you plan to get tuned by Ken Hill @ Oracle tuning? I had him tune mine a few weeks ago and couldn't be happier with the results. I figured I'd mention it because you are right in his area. |
Wreck and Rebuild a.k.a. Onyxyth build 2.0
Oh sweet! cool you saw the post.
Definitely considering it. It's either him or the guys at r/t tuning which also have a really good reputation. That's down the line quite a bit though, I don't even have an MS for the new chassis yet. 96-97 ms2 from the wrecked chassis won't PnP and I want to step to ms3 anyway. |
Oh nice, I didn't realize that you were around somewhat local, I'm in Lancaster. I can definitely vouch for myself and a few friends that were tuned by Ken and he did top notch work. I'd recommend him hands down.
Also if you want some black carpet while you have it out I can dig that out of my parts car |
<p>
Originally Posted by Onyxyth
(Post 1238329)
Oh sweet! cool you saw the post. Definitely considering it. It's either him or the guys at r/t tuning which also have a really good reputation. That's down the line quite a bit though, I don't even have an MS for the new chassis yet. 96-97 ms2 from the wrecked chassis won't PnP and I want to step to ms3 anyway.
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Hey dude, I found your build thread after meeting you on reddit! The build looks awesome so far, it has really inspired me to start fresh on a new shell as soon as I can. I'll be sure to start a build thread for my car, albeit a bit less involved than this one.
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Updates!
This arrived. EFR 6258. It's glorious, and much bigger physically than I was expecting. This is from the Trackspeed group buy so I'll have a manifold as well when they get finalized. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 More engine bay cleaning. I used Turtle Wax's "Bug and Tar Remover" - it worked really, really well. It sprays on thick and seeps into all the little crevices. Scrub as needed and rinse off. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 Results: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 Next thing on the list was refurbishing the front subframe and suspension. I started by dropping it totally out of the car. I chocked the wheels and used an engine hoist to lift the car up by the bumper, and drug the whole shabang out from under. This was moderately sketchy but I figured the engine and interior are out, the subframe isn't going to be lifted, and the hoist is rated for 1 ton. At the very least I'm ~500 lbs under that. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 In hindsight there was probably a few things I should have loosened while it was still attached to the car, particularly the ball joints. It's hard to get a solid hit to pop them when the whole assembly just slides across the floor when smacked. Oh well - I got everything apart: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 To remove the bushings I used a long bolt, a shitload of washers, two metric adjustable wrenches, and some white lithium grease. This method worked pretty damn well. Just make sure you're not crushing the control arm with the vice - and probably most importantly, it needs to be sitting perfectly level in the vice otherwise it'll just bind up. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 Next was getting all the parts prepped for paint. This took forever. Probably 15-20 hrs of wire wheeling across 4 days. The lower control arms are a bitch. The dugout part where the shock bolts to is pretty difficult to get cleaned up. No pictures of that, but here's a quick one of the subframe itself. It was humid that day too, so as I cleaned up one side, the other side was starting to rust almost immediately. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 I primed these two parts with Rustoleum "Bare Metal" Primer. I ended up doing the rest with Krylon's Red Oxide primer as I felt it sprayed better, and might give me some protection for spots I missed / couldn't clean as well as I wanted (lower control arms..) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 Painting. Shiny. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1436396147 That's where we're at now. I'll be ordering a boatload of things to get this all back together fairly soon. Bushings, ball joints, tie rods, rotors, dust caps, etc etc etc Next project will be de-powering the rack. |
nice work :) subbed
I'm glad I got my suspension powder coated now sanding/cleaning up is one of the most tedious jobs, you must have lots of patience. Bet that turbo is going to be awesome too |
Wreck and Rebuild a.k.a. Onyxyth build 2.0
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Wreck and Rebuild a.k.a. Onyxyth build 2.0
Originally Posted by jimmyneutron
(Post 1247885)
nice work :) subbed
I'm glad I got my suspension powder coated now sanding/cleaning up is one of the most tedious jobs, you must have lots of patience. Bet that turbo is going to be awesome too |
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I finished the bushing install and the subframe is mostly back together. I just need to decide on paint for the calipers (probably silver or black) and then get the hubs and everything together.
Love how fresh everything looks. By the way, the included poly lube is a fucking pain in the ass. It's so sticky and it's a bitch to get off your hands/gloves/rags. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437342256 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437342256 So I installed zerk fittings as seen above, but the upper arm bushings don't have the "channels" like the lower arm bushings do. I rigged this up and cut some small channels to grease the outside flange of the bushing (which I think is the "working" edge of the bushing on all of these?) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437342256 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437342256 That's where I'm at now. I'll likely be in a holding pattern for a few weeks while some other things get straightened out. |
Wreck and Rebuild a.k.a. Onyxyth build 2.0
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De-powered the rack today, didn't weld the pinion though, It seemed like there wasn't a strong argument for doing it.
Welded the fittings closed to plug the lines, also found some pipe threaded plugs for the larger lines. Edit: you can't rearrange the order of pictures on mobile? |
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Any suggestions on getting this fuckin' bolt out?
I had the torch on the threads & sleeve for a long ass time then hit it with the impact. This worked for the other bolt but this one won't budge. I ended up stripping it a bit (enough that the socket would bind and the impact wasn't "impacting"). I filed it down to 16mm. Not sure what else to try. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1439151726 |
7 months later? I never did get that bolt out. Cleaned up the housing as best I could and threw it back in.
Rear sub was powdercoated and reassembled, reinstalled. I bought a BP4W head on Craigslist, got the intake, throttle cable, throttle body, sensor pigtails and all for $360. Pretty good deal. I bought a Supermiata Damper, and heavy double valve springs (bp4w). ACL race bearings (std). Engine is at the machine shop right now, should be done in a week or two. I'm having them build the short block and I'll do everything else. Head is getting a valve job. |
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More updates????
Got some pics from the machine shop. Should be done either late this week or next. I'm having them assemble the short block. I've never built an engine before, so I didn't want to undertake that this time around. Maybe next. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459291737 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459291737 Also, this came a few weeks ago. Mmmmmm :likecat::party: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459291737 |
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It's already May? shit. At least I'm getting close now. I picked up a few new things and got my motor back.
Caught one of these while they were in stock: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 Prettied this up: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 And most importantly I got everything back from the machine shop. I pretty much let them go nuts with the parts.
The block is painted New Ford Gray - nothing too fancy but better than black I think. It looks really good in the light. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 #instagay Attachment 235024 Degreased, slightly sanded off some oxidization, and then painted the transmission: I'm not sure I like the paint. Hopefully it looks better when it's got a bit of road dirt on it. It looks like a plastic model part right now. 1/1 scale Tamiya kit? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 No wonder the car always smelled like gas. PO never put the fuel pump cover back on. I don't have the screws for it, but Home Depot did. Cap heads look fancy. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 Annnnnnd I also started swapping in the black interior from my other car. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462840412 Damn that picture ended up really fuzzy. I don't like that Grant wheel much, it came with the car. Does anyone know what a full tan interior sells for? I have the whole shabang, it's NB1 seats though, for some reason. So the current plan of attack is to get the motor built and buttoned up - then install it completely naturally aspirated. I think new motor + new Megasquirt + new car (I only briefly ran this thing on the old motor) is too many variables. So I'm going to fire this up NA with the stock ECU and go through the break in process like that, 500 miles or so. After that I'll get the MS in and running well, then add the turbo into the mix. Nice and easy, slow and safe, right? right. I still need to go through a few things, finishing up the interior, getting brake pads & lines installed, but that's easy stuff. |
updated title
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yes
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If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to build the bottom end in total? I'm going to do a similar thing, and it will also be my first time building an engine. I want to minimize the possibility for me to screw stuff up.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1330295)
updated title
If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to build the bottom end in total? I'm going to do a similar thing, and it will also be my first time building an engine. I want to minimize the possibility for me to screw stuff up. |
Enjoying your build so far. I'm just wrapping up my BP4W swap into my 92 Miata; A particular delay has been a native of our lovely state- rust. Your blue car looks to be in really good shape though. Glad you found a good one to work with.
The Trackspeed EFR kit looks great. I'm looking forward to hearing your experience with it when you're finished. |
Originally Posted by Onyxyth
(Post 1330333)
It was about $650 in labor for just the block stuff, including $270 for assembly. Plus parts (rods, pistons, rings, bearings). Probably a bit pricey but I'm happy with the work.
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I think I paid $1300 total for shortblock (blueprinted,balancing, magneflux) and the head work (+1 valves all around, new valve guides). I provided parts. It's worked for at least 5000 miles so far.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1330457)
I think I paid $1300 total for shortblock (blueprinted,balancing, magneflux) and the head work (+1 valves all around, new valve guides). I provided parts. It's worked for at least 5000 miles so far.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1330457)
I think I paid $1300 total for shortblock (blueprinted,balancing, magneflux) and the head work (+1 valves all around, new valve guides). I provided parts. It's worked for at least 5000 miles so far.
Enjoying your build so far. I'm just wrapping up my BP4W swap into my 92 Miata; A particular delay has been a native of our lovely state- rust. Your blue car looks to be in really good shape though. Glad you found a good one to work with. The Trackspeed EFR kit looks great. I'm looking forward to hearing your experience with it when you're finished. I've been really impressed with the Trackspeed kit and I'm excited to see the downpipe & water/oil lines as they come over the next few weeks. |
Thanks for all the sharing on machining costs guys. Cats awarded to all.
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I really like the color choice for the block. I am contemplating going with a non-black color as well. at what point do you paint it? After machine work but before final assembly? I plan on having mine chemically dipped before it goes to engine shop because the engine shop said that if I wanted it blasted it might take off metal and require more machine work (if I am understanding them correctly). Since the engine sat so long in storage there are a couple spots that have some rough rust on the exterior of the block...
Love your build, can't wait to see how it turns out. |
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I painted it as soon as I got it back from the machine shop. They had hot tanked it so it was completely free of grease. There was some surface rust still, so I gave it a quick wire wheeling after masking off the top/bottom/front/back. I did like 5 coats of Duplicolor Engine Enamel, which apparently has some ceramic in it according to the label. It dried really "hard", almost feels like glass - if that makes any sense. It should be pretty tough.
This was during: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463011619 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463011619 |
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Put the oil pan on and broke one of the long bolts.
Luckily it came right out AND I was able to grab one off my spare motor without too much trouble: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 Wrinkle Black! After looking at this, I think regular Gloss Black would have been fine too. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 Apply Heat: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 Came out pretty good: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 Timed: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 Covered: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 Pulley'd: Attachment 235023 Transmission put on, reroute put on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466964498 At this point I'm waiting on Motor Mounts (949 Hybrid) and brake lines (backordered with Trackspeed water/oil kit). Then I should be able to start this thing up on the stock ECU and break it in. |
Love your build. Similar motor build to mine. Just envious of the TSE turbo set up.
BTW, how much did you have to trim the lower timing belt cover for the supermiata harmonic balancer? |
Quite a bit, especially with the trigger wheel. I trimmed probably 3/4" around the whole thing. I would take a bit off, set the cover in place then eyeball with the pulley at the end of the crank. I was using tin snips/aviation sheers to trim it, which worked really well. Cleaned up the edges with a file afterwards.
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