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Pats Whipple W100AX Street/Track '99 Build Thread
I guess it’s time I start a build thread. I’ve had my ’99 apart for a year now. I tore it apart last year and swapped the entire drivetrain, built a new engine myself, 6 speed, and an EFR 7670, RX7 LSD. That turbo was too big/my setup sucked, took it apart last September. So then I thought it would be a good idea to compound it with an FFS SC That too was a bad idea, and I’ve scrapped that mess all together. Then it just sat.
So for the last few months it’s been sitting in the garage as I tried to figure out what I really wanted out of the car. To be honest I drove a new Mercedes C63 AMG and it got me thinking about what I really wanted out of the miata as the C63 is fast and has lots of torque everywhere, yet it’s completely stock, passes emissions, and is civilized/nice/reliable at the same time. If I’m going to build my miata up it, should at least be faster than this thing considering it’s a 4 door luxury boat that’s stock. Here’s what I come up with for my goals: Track-worthy Reliability- I can drive it anywhere, and beat on it, and it won’t break, won’t overheat, won’t starve for oil, etc. I want it overbuilt, no shortcuts taken. So this means sleeper is out the window as that involves compromises that will affect reliability and performance. I’ve been spending a lot of time in the race prep section learning what everyone does to make these cars reliable on a track, but I got a lot more to learn. So if you see something I’m doing wrong please let me know! I want this car to be track-worthy. Safety System to Monitor for Problems- I want a system in place that monitors all the things a typical race car would have a gauge for, and then some, and then some more. I want to be able to establish a “safe” range for each variable, and have it alert me if one of them goes out of range. This system will be a Go/No Go gauge so to speak, as it will tell me if everything’s ok or if something is overheating, or low on pressure, or not-normal. I also want to be able to datalog all of this so I can improve the Safety System as well as the systems on the car as I identify the weak links. The system will have LED monitors and an audible alarm for critical failures. It will be either Arduino based and communicate via CAN to other devices. DD friendly- From an operations side, I want it to be DD friendly. So runs on 93 pump gas, has street tires (whatever the stickiest there is, I believe I’ll run 15x9 6ULs and 225 NT01’s), has a knock detection system that works, doesn’t sit so low that I can’t drive it on the street, has A/C and P/S and a stereo. I don’t care if it rides rough, is loud, vibrates, etc. But I want this to be a legitimately streetable car, no race fuel, no slicks… Instant Response, Torque Everywhere- I want a torque line. If I was building a track-only car it would be turbocharged for sure or a V8 swap. But I want a car that has torque everywhere with no lag. In all honesty I should probably be putting a V8 in the car but too late for that now…. I decided to keep the BP engine so a supercharger setup is the best way for me to get a nice flat torque curve with instant response, no lag, no hesitation. Pass TX Emissions- I live in Houston so I need the car to be able to pass emissions testing here. They do an OBD2 port scan here and then a 25-0 brake test to make sure the car can stop within a certain distance. Brake test is no big deal to pass in a miata, but the only way it’s going to pass emissions testing here is if the factory ECU is in place and all the emissions equipment is either working, or the ECU thinks it is working. They check for codes and readiness monitors. More info here (TxDPS - FAQs: OBDII Emissions Testing) I’m ok with removing/disabling some of the stuff if needed once it passes, but would prefer to leave it all working of possible. I’m hoping just swap in a catalytic converter for emissions day if running it all the time doesn’t work well. Powerful- Of course it has to be fast too. I want to make at least 350whp, and the setup have headroom to make a bit more down the road. I’m not trying to build the fastest miata in the world, just what I consider to be fun to drive. Yes I will dyno it, and post results when my old username is given back to me. Looks nice- Once it’s running well and I’m happy with it, I’m going to buy a new bumper/headlights/taillights, and get the car painted. It’s a ‘99 and it needs a paint job to look nice again. So based on those goals, here’s what I’ve come up with: Engine I found a machinist in Houston that builds performance engines and he seems to have a great reputation and has built a lot of miata engines. He has a deck plate for the BP…. I brought him the following parts to put me a shortblock together: 03’ Block and crank, 48K miles on them. FM Weisco Pistons, 84mm Carrillo H-Beam rods ACL Race bearings/OEM Thrust bearing ARP Main studs ATI Harmonic Damper w/ SC Pulley He has the bottom end ready for me to pickup, he cleaned/magnafluxed the block, bored and honed it using a deck plate to 0.0031” clearance IIRC (I’ll have to ask), he line bored/honed the main caps with the studs torqued in, balanced the entire assembly, polished the crank, fitted the rods to the pistons, gapped the rings for 30 PSI Boost, delete oil squirters, . He may have done a few more things, he was talking fast and that’s all I wrote down. I’m going to talk to him more when I pick it up. I built the VVT head last year so I’m going to reuse it on this bottom end. It has: Fancy Supertech valvetrain, intake valves, +1 Inconel exhaust valves, titanium retainers, dual valve springs, 5 angle on the intakes, 4 on the exhaust, surfaced flat to <10 RA surface roughness, ported, deshrouded, bowls blended to seat/combustion chamber, polished combustion chamber. I did all the head work, just bought a Newway seat cutting system and built a valve grinding machine for tipping the valves to adjust them. It’s revved to 8700-8800 and not broken, so at least this part of my old engine did ok! Note: don’t rev a boosted BP to 8800 with rods-only bottom end and expect it to last…. Or probably any BP engine… Supercharger I found CodingPardox’s dyno and looked at his setup and decided I liked it enough that if I only wanted 350whp, that looked like a pretty sweet way to get it. After talking with him and doing more research, I found the W100AX, which is basically the same blower he uses, but a more efficient version that’s rated up to 20K RPM instead of 13K, and it’s rated up to 30 PSI Boost. Did some math and it looks like this blower will move about 56lb/min at 8K RPM at 2:1 pulley ratio which should be ~30PSI boost, 60lb/min at 8.5K. So this is enough air for my power goals. I looked at mounting it hotside or coldside, and decided hotside would be best since that makes intercooling it easier. Also I can use the stock intake manifold too and most of the emissions equipment will be plug and play on it. I’m going to reinstall my old 20x12x3 core bar/plate intercooler so should have good charge cooling. I may even order a new A/C condenser/lines and move the intercooler up front. But then I’d have to vac and charge the system again and it’s been working fine for years with my custom A/C lines so I hate to open it… But we’ll see. I’m going to use a 6 rib belt setup for now. The gentleman at Whipple swears it will work at 30 PSI with no belt slip on a 6 rib. We’ll see. If it slips I’ll change it of course. Due to packaging constraints there will be no autotensioner, will have to manually tension the belt like the others on a miata. The setup will clear factory A/C, P/S, Factory header, factory HEAT SHIELD (with small modification to heat shield for 2 SC mounting tabs), clear the hood by minimum ¼”, master cylinder, and lower radiator hose inlet. The bracket weights 9.4lbs currently, pretty sure I could lose another pound if I tried, but wanted it overbuilt so it never cracks, or vibrates, etc. I plan to weld/port the factory header to get it flowing a bit better, cut the collector and weld a 3” pipe to it, and wrap all of it with fiberglass header wrap before reinstalling the heatshield. All to try and minimize heat soak of course. I have not done this yet. And 3” exhaust of course. Cooling I have a 03’ engine, I plan to remove the reroute and run the stock 03’ headgasket with OEM location water neck/thermostat. Also plan to do a bypass thermostat for the heater core, gotta work out the details on this still. I have a new MSM Radiator. I have new modified SPAL Extreme Performance 12” Fans mounted on a modified FM Fan shroud. These are the strongest 12” fans SPAL makes…. They pull 40 Amps EACH. They move a bit more air than the OEM Fans do when wired in series getting about 6.5V... In parallel it’s fairly impressive how much air they move, it’s enough “thrust” that it can lift its ~8lb weight up no problem. I built a series/parallel controller so I can run the fans on LOW (series, 6V each/12V total and only pulls 20 Amps, 240W) all the time when the engine is running to keep air moving through my intercooler/engine bay, and then switch them to HIGH (parallel, 12V each, 40A each, 80A total, 960W) when needed. I’m planning to wire them so they automatically go to high if throttle > say 50%. It also has a time delay relay installed so fans run on low for 2 minutes after key off to cool down the engine bay/intercooler a bit to reduce heatsoak. I suspect this cooling approach will be adequate for the street and probably fine for a drag strip, but I don’t know (I doubt) it will work for a racetrack. So I’m open for ideas here. I do have my factory under tray and decent front end ducting. My thoughts are either a better radiator, or another radiator located somewhere else. I also considered moving the a/c condenser somewhere else, I’ve seen this done on Porsche’s before so the radiator/intercooler gets good air. Oil System/Cooling I have a FM oil filter relocation kit, a Large MOCAL Laminar flow oil/water oil cooler, and a 2qt Accusump all going on the car. I have a diagram I’ll try and scan in later, but basically oil will go out of engine to the remote filter, then to the oil cooler, then back down to the block. Right before it gets to the block, I’m going to Tee in my Accusump there. Oil filter will be somewhere near the firewall area, oil cooler up front somewhere in the upper radiator hose (so it acts as a oil warmer/cooler) and the Accusump will be somewhere at the bottom of the engine bay. Fuel system Will convert to return-style fuel system. I’ll try to scan in my diagram as well, but basic setup will be: Tank, Walbro 255HP, factory line to front, factory to 6 AN adapter, 6AN to Regulator, Regulator to Fuel ’03 fuel rail. Return line will be 6AN and go to rear, few fittings, and back into the tank. Obviously will be deleting the factory regulator in the rear. I think a 255HP is enough fuel pump for 350whp on gasoline, but not 100% sure. Engine Management MS3 PRO/Factory ECU I’m planning to install a new (used) factory 99’ ecu and harness, and then modify it so that the stock ecu is plugged into everything it normally would have, EXCEPT the ignition coils and fuel injectors. Cam, Crank, TPS signals will be sent to MS3 PRO. MS3 PRO will have all the usual sensors. This way stock ECU THINKS it’s running the car, and it will be running all the emissions equipment, alternator, idle, a/c comp, a/c idle up. MS3 PRO will actually be running the car regarding fuel and spark. MS3 PRO will also have an idle valve or a solenoid, something so I can idle-up when my fans come on since they pull 80A on high incase they ever go high at idle. I am also going to install a GM MAF sensor pre-SC so I can datalog airflow. This is surprisingly easy to do, and will allow me to make changes to the setup and see how they affect airflow through the engine (like with/without cat, with/without muffler, different pulley ratio, anything really) I may try MAF based fueling down the road, but no promises since MAP based works fine. Safety System: This isn’t finished yet, more or less still ideas and some diagrams. I have the Arduino, ordered a CAN-EGT as well as a Reverant 24CH Analong to Digital to CAN box, so I’ll be able to record a lot of data. Right now the plan is to have 8 K-Type thermcopules through the CAN-EGT for: Charge Air Temp_Pre-Intercooler (post SC) Charge Air Temp Post-Intercooler Engine Coolant Temp_Pre-Radiator Engine Coolant Temp_Post-Radiator Air Temp_Ambient Air Temp_Post-Intercooler Air Temp_Post-Radiator EGT With this, I can directly measure heat exchanger effectiveness for both the intercooler and radiator. I plan to test out 2 different intercoolers and possibly several different radiators and with/without fans so I can prove/disprove what works to optimize the cooling for my car. Yeah for data! Also will Reverant’s 24CH box (only 16CH available since CAN-EGT uses up 8) so I’ll have these GM temp sensors: Oil Temp, Trans Temp, Diff temp And Fuel pressure, Oil pressure, Coolant pressure IF I ever put water injection on the car, I’ll datalog flow, and WI pressure. That’s something I plan to Add IF I find out I need it. I’d rather keep it simple and not use it if possible but we’ll see. I may add an exhaust backpressure sensor, that’s a maybe. |
45 Attachment(s)
Ignition System
IGN1A Race coils, stock NGK Blue wires modified with HEI connectors. Will just mount the coils on the back of the head where the stock coils go, nothing too crazy but should be a good hot ignition system. Sequential of course. I have FM’s NGK race plugs in the head I think. No idea if they’re better than a set of 7’s. Drivetrain 6 Speed Manual w/ MiataRoadster shifter ACT Extreme Clutch FM 10lb flywheel Currently have 4.10 RX7 LSD shimmed to 200 ft*lbs in a RX7 Housing, but have all the parts to build a MSM Diff/axles, 3.909 in RX7 Housing. Just gotta take 2 diffs and turn them into 1… Someone talk me into a 3.636… Pics!! Building the head https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373995754 Electrical Box, only have a few pics, it’s done now https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 There are now about 15x more wires in this box than in this pic. It probably weights 20lbs now. http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee155/patsmx5/MIata%20Build%20Nov%202013/DSCN0009_zps2ddde76b.jpg[/img] https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Cooling System When I first tried to install these fans, they hit the side of the car, the sway bar, the SC tensioner, and each other! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Take new 210 dollar each fans and cut it up! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Installed https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Supercharger Setup Step one, hang SC from Celiling, adjust cables (wires) until it’s exactly where it goes Then stare at it till you figure out how to build a mounting system. Then mock up the pieces in ¼” foam board https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Then buy steel and welder and portaband and jigsaw. Then transfer to steel, and cut them all out, and weld them together. I have a Miller MIG, but it’s not here in TX yet so I bought a cheap flux core to get this done. Oh well… It will work, that’s what paint’s for I guess… https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Build outlet box. I tried to make a 3d curved fancy piece, after 2 hours of failing to bend metal in 3 dimensions, I gave up and built a box. [img][/img] https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Welded on https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413233473 Attachment 184635 Brace Attachment 184627 Attachment 184628 Attachment 184629 Attachment 184630 Attachment 184631 Mount for Idler Pulley Attachment 184632 Attachment 184633 Tensioner Pulley Attachment 184634 I have this cut from steel, haven’t welded it on yet. Will weld it next time I’m welding. This gives 1.25” of vertical adjustment, so 2.5” belt slack that can be taken up to tension the belt. Attachment 184635 Attachment 184636 Ignition Wires Attachment 184637 Attachment 184638 I apparently don’t have pics, but the SC bolts up now to this bracket, and the pulley is exactly parallel to the crank pulley. All that’s left for the SC system is to weld the tensioner on, then fab an inlet flange, box and flange to bolt a throttle body onto, then silicon bend to a MAF and air filter. And throttle linkage/bypass valve too. And that’s more or less where I’m at right now. I work 100+ hours a week, gone for weeks at a time, so I’m either not working on the car, or working on it everyday. I’m going to pickup the new shortblock when I get home so I’ll post some pics of that when I get it! Patsmx5 |
Sweet, build. One small thing before you put the head on the new engine, use the 99 head gasket and keep the reroute. And consider going to a better radiator.
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In for madness :D
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1175153)
Sweet, build. One small thing before you put the head on the new engine, use the 99 head gasket and keep the reroute. And consider going to a better radiator.
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I think most will agree that the Trackspeed crossflow is up there with the best of them.
As for the HG question: 01+ is better than before years, but 94-00 gasket with a re-route is still quite a bit better. |
Buy the Trackspeed radiator and run a reroute. I have both, it works.
Nice build! |
Very nice so far. Where in Houston are you? I'm also curious which engine builder you took it to?
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Very cool. What is the compression ratio on the engine?
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Welcome back
Is your exhaust still made of glasspacks? |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1175186)
I think most will agree that the Trackspeed crossflow is up there with the best of them.
As for the HG question: 01+ is better than before years, but 94-00 gasket with a re-route is still quite a bit better.
Originally Posted by dcamp2
(Post 1175190)
Buy the Trackspeed radiator and run a reroute. I have both, it works.
Nice build!
Originally Posted by albertogti117
(Post 1175206)
Very nice so far. Where in Houston are you? I'm also curious which engine builder you took it to?
I took the engine to G&G Performance. Joe is the gentleman who I have spoken with. I sat down and talked engines with him for about an hour when I dropped it off, this guy really seems to know his stuff, I was very impressed.
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1175208)
Very cool. What is the compression ratio on the engine?
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
(Post 1175212)
Welcome back
Is your exhaust still made of glasspacks? |
With that blower you probably want something with at least 1 7/8" primaries and probably a 2.25ish choke in the collector before going up to 3".
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Aww snap I got my name back!!!!!! :yippee::yippee::yippee::yippee:
Very happy about this, thank you Scott! It means a lot to me. :) |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1175236)
With that blower you probably want something with at least 1 7/8" primaries and probably a 2.25ish choke in the collector before going up to 3".
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I've run a lot of different engines in pipe max. That was some pencil math that's probably just in the ball park. Honestly with a blower that big I'm not sure the header really matters much past just not posing a restriction.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1175247)
I've run a lot of different engines in pipe max. That was some pencil math that's probably just in the ball park. Honestly with a blower that big I'm not sure the header really matters much past just not posing a restriction.
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Looks interesting. I'd reconsider using the stock ECU at all. It's only truly needed to run evap and EGR and honestly, it's not worth it. The harness gets ugly.
MS3 Pro can be tuned to work nearly as good as stock for everything else. If someone fixed the alternator code that is. |
I think he's running the stock ecu so that the emissions tech can plug into the obdII port and it works with all clear.
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 1175251)
Looks interesting. I'd reconsider using the stock ECU at all. It's only truly needed to run evap and EGR and honestly, it's not worth it. The harness gets ugly.
MS3 Pro can be tuned to work nearly as good as stock for everything else. If someone fixed the alternator code that is. |
I wouldnt try to let the stock ECU control the idle valve while the standalone is controlling everything else. The stock ecu is going to be expecting plenty of spark advance idle control as well and if you have the MS do that while the stock ecu is controlling the valve they're just going to fight each other. And if you dont have spark advance idle control you'll probably end up with a bunch of weird stall scenarios where the car just cuts out because the iac cant open fast enough.
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Kick ass build so far, nice job. Very interested to see this thing run.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1175254)
I don't believe I can make MS3 PRO return OBD2 codes that say everything passes though. I can make the stock ECU do that, that's the ONLY reason I'm planning to put it back on. That and the stock ecu does do idle/ac idle up and control/alternator control without a hickup.
I do speak from experience. I have run my car with the stock ECU doing these things in addition to an EMS and it DID pass OBDII inspection this way. HOWEVER... You will probably fail the catalyst checks. Maybe the airflow checks. It's an iterative process. Just be aware that if you DO get it to give the all-clear sign with the stock ECU that it will be a) very temporary and b) probably not with your full power tune / setup. See above. Ultimately I had to simulate the second o2 sensor to get mine to pass. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1175254)
That and the stock ecu does do idle/ac idle up and control/alternator control without a hickup.
Cool build. Big blowers are almost as good as a turbo ;) |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1175250)
That's really what I'm thinking. Just open it up and make it flow as much as possible. Down the road I may build a custom header but for now just gonna modify this one and get it on the road.
And you are right about the sizing. When I went from a off the shelf header to the one I have, I picked up power everywhere and dropped a little over 1.5 PSI. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1175256)
I wouldnt try to let the stock ECU control the idle valve while the standalone is controlling everything else. The stock ecu is going to be expecting plenty of spark advance idle control as well and if you have the MS do that while the stock ecu is controlling the valve they're just going to fight each other. And if you dont have spark advance idle control you'll probably end up with a bunch of weird stall scenarios where the car just cuts out because the iac cant open fast enough.
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 1175289)
That is assuming your fuel and spark are precisely tuned at idle. They may do ok.
I do speak from experience. I have run my car with the stock ECU doing these things in addition to an EMS and it DID pass OBDII inspection this way. HOWEVER... You will probably fail the catalyst checks. Maybe the airflow checks. It's an iterative process. Just be aware that if you DO get it to give the all-clear sign with the stock ECU that it will be a) very temporary and b) probably not with your full power tune / setup. See above. Ultimately I had to simulate the second o2 sensor to get mine to pass. Why do you say I would probably fail the catalyst checks? Is that just regarding the second O2 sensor? Anything else that's probably gonna be a pain? Seems like EGR will just be reinstall and done, for example.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1175291)
Idle isn't just controlled by the valve itself, though. The ECU expects to have control over timing to make minute adjustments, so I don't think it's going to work as smoothly as you would expect it to. The dual idle valve thing to combat your fans compounds that issue by 10-fold (stock IAC valve and secondary IAC valve combating each other).
Cool build. Big blowers are almost as good as a turbo ;)
Originally Posted by TNTUBA
(Post 1175444)
Leafy is hand-grenade close with his math. My header is 1 7/8" Primaries to a 3" Full merge collector then to a convergent/divergent duct before the exhaust.
And you are right about the sizing. When I went from a off the shelf header to the one I have, I picked up power everywhere and dropped a little over 1.5 PSI. |
Primary length on a SC Header isn't critical...it is still important. I can build you one like mine if you will sign a confidentiality agreement :)
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1175463)
I have no problem simulating things if needed, I just need it to say "pass" when they plug into it.
Why do you say I would probably fail the catalyst checks? Is that just regarding the second O2 sensor? Anything else that's probably gonna be a pain? Seems like EGR will just be reinstall and done, for example. I always left my EGR running. I welded the bung onto my tubular turbo header and ran the stock pipe to the valve. It just sat there while running the MS alone. |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1175288)
Kick ass build so far, nice job. Very interested to see this thing run.
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1 Attachment(s)
First idea of implementing my warning system.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414093132 I don't have the hardware design all figured out, but what I'm thinking now is use plexiglass to build a little box there. Design a sticker that looks like the front of the box with all the warnings, have the text cut out of the sticker. Place sticker on front of plexiglass. Use LEDs behind plexiglass to light up the text green/yellow/red depending on if it's good/bad/oh-shit-stop-now. Put dividers between sections so no bleed through. Still looking for LEDs that are bright enough, would prefer to use a RGB LED so I can do all colors with one LED. |
28 Attachment(s)
Bump! Decent update.
So, I'm working on the miata again, sorta quit my job. So good news is more time to work on miata! ;) Gotten a few things done. First, I decided to wash the car to clean it up a bit. I ended up getting carried away cleaning.... Tore the entire interior out, changed the carpet, cleaned the dash, cleaned the carpet/seats, replaced the engine main wiring harness that goes from stock ECU to engine. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Swapped in a new harness, but tapped 3 wires from it (cam, crank, tps). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 3 wires I tapped. Same color as what they are from factory harness, pulled wire from extra harness! Two extra wires are from ignition switch. for RUN and START conditions. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Cleaned up the dash. Before/after vents https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 So then got to work on SC stuff yesterday. First, took some 3" tubing, cut ends at 28* angle vs square, with Length of 4.53" then on one end marked it in the middle, other end, added 1.5 cm to it, drew lines, cut. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 I don't have great pics, but in this one, at the bottom, you can tell tubing doesn't go to bottom line. I manually bent it to make it that shape. Top is 1.5" radius, bottom is 2" radius, so inlet is 3.5" tall using 3" tubing! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Then forgot to take pics.... But here it is finished. I flux cored it. Everything is 16 gauge mild steel, yes it warped, it was a pain. I set it on a wet towel when I welded, that actually helped a lot. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Looking into it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Top view. Smooth transition. http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...psy7cypyhf.jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Front view. I finally welded the tensioner on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Gave it a test fit, measured and bought a 55.5" 6 rib belt. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 But there was a problem. I hit the starter and discovered the pulley was as alligned-up as I thought it was! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 So I flipped the pulley around and... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423461075 Now just need to space the idler and tensioner forward 1/4". Easy enough to do, just need to make the spacers and then buy some bolts that are 1/4" longer as these will then be too short. Making progress! |
Pat, why did you not go with an auto-tensioner arrangement for your belt?
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As of now, nowhere to put an autotensioner! I may try to add one down the road if I can figure out a good place for it. My fans motors are in the way right now.
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Awesome fab work! I can't wait to see this thing in action!
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11 Attachment(s)
Today's update:
Spaced out the idler/tensioner pulleys for the SC. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...pso94rrxzk.jpg Then forgot I still need to install the bypass valve, so I started on the header/exhaust. First, measure/mark factory header at merge collector, cut at 3" OD area. Look how tiny the stock choke is! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 Then I noticed how restrictive the factory welds are, so I adjusted them.... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 Then started fabing the exhaust below the collector https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 This is 3 pieces tach'd together. At this point, it wouldn't fit in the car as one piece. I decided to cut it in the middle and clamp it back. I already had a split clamp I intended to install once it got down under the car, but since it didn't want to play nice (fit in the car) I put it in the middle of the downpipe. Can see it here. Also before I cut it, I used a dremel to cut a long "slot" mark on it so it can be lined up as before. Not sure if necessary but figured why not. Also worth noting, I kept the factory mounting tabs for the factory header heat shields, both of them! And they both fit too... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 Catalytic converter! It's the one Leafy said last for several years. It's a 300 cell spiral core metalic. I'm going to weld an O2 bung in the back of it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 Glasspacks GONE! They weighed 27 lbs for those who care. The muffler as pictured with exhaust bends/tip/hangers also weighs 27 lbs. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423547384 Tomorrow, I resume with finishing the exhaust pipes, figure out where all my O2 sensors need to go and install the bungs/sensors, weld everything out. Then go back and install the bypass valve for the SC so that that will be done! |
4 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423749901
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423749901 http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps5kh1ehko.jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423749901 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423749901 http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...psd2fqexws.jpg Exhaust finished! Old system weighed 54 lbs + downpipe (est 9lbs) Turbo (25 lbs) + FM manifold/external gate (est 22 lbs) so old system Total = 110 from exhaust manifold flange to tail pipe but includes turbo. New System weighs: Header with O2 sensor: 9lbs Exhaust with 1 O2 sensor: 42 lbs Total exhaust weight: 51 lbs. Yeah! :party: I weighted the Supercharger/Mounting base/brace/SC inlet/Throttle body/Idler/Tensioner as an assembly: 29 lbs. So even with the blower instead of turbo, new weight is 51+29 = 80lbs, still 30 less than before! |
15 Attachment(s)
Update:
So I got to working on the SC bypass a couple days ago. Its purpose is to open during vacuum so the SC can circulate air through it to keep it from overheating the rotors. I've actually done quite a bit of research on SC's and why they fail, and according to Kenne Bell, they quote 99% of SC failures are due to heat! More on this later, back to bypass valve... So took me over an hour to find a place for the bypass valve. About 2 hours. it needs to coneect inlet and outlet of SC, less pipe is better, but SC next to header... and can on actuator is plastic so it needs to be away from header. Finally figured out a spot, basically 3/4" away from flange, on the edge, angled 20* from vertical towards drivers side, then twisted at an angle... It fits, hits nothing, can is away from heat. Now waiting on 1.5 to 1.75" 90* silicone transition before I cut and weld the final piece on to complete the bypass. Didin't have a 1.75" drill bit, but did have a 1/8" bit https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 Welded onto pipe. Note: 10' stick of 1.75" tubing fits in my '05 outback. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 Bypass valve installed, sorta. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060642 So didn't get anything done yesterday on the miata, but did today. Started on ignition coil mount. These are the IGN1A Race coils, they are too bit to package in stock location. I finally found a way to package them ontop of the valve cover that doesn't interfere with the hood, oil cap, VVT stuff, etc. Tempate from paper https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 Onto steel https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 Drill holes in corners to get jig saw bit into https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 Makeshift brake (this didn't work very well, but oh well, it did work sort of) http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps9cjtvox6.jpg Make shift vice grips! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 In total there are 3 tabs, 2 go to valve cover bolts, one to VVT oil pipe bolt http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...ps7bqqizyw.jpg Attachment 184347 Attachment 184348 Clears the hood https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424060371 http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...psykehh3s2.jpg Attachment 184349 Attachment 184350 Attachment 184351 So coil mount is done, just needs paint. It's not perfectly straight, it's made from steel so probably weighs 1/2 a lb, but oh well. I can't weld aluminum with a flux core welder, and at the end of the day it does hold the coils and it's very strong/rigid, and it's only 3 bolts to have the coils out of the way. If I had a sheet metal brake it would be nicer but I think it's fine for a coil mount. That's where I'm at right now. Next stuff is to mock up emissions equipment. Also need to buy or build a dummy throttle body. Seems moss miata has one for 110 damn dollars! Screw that, will make one if they're more than 20. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1206404)
according to Kenne Bell, they quote 99% of SC failures are due to heat! More on this later,
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Nice man. Been following this build.
I've figured out that my car will never really be done. So make it out of steel now, and later when you think you are finished, you can go back and make it from aluminum. Now get this s bitch on the road so you can make all the turbo guys cry. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1206413)
Please tell me you're not sending steigimster a shit load of money for them to install a snout coole for you.
Thanks williams! I definitely can't wait to get it on the road. I'm thinking still 2 months out, but we will see! In theory it could be done sooner, but in reality, I'm slow at building things.... Especially when I got to figure out the how to do it part first. I don't think any turbo guys will be crying, this has not been cheap or easy! I am kinda expecting it to make 300 wheel torque or more, would like to see a bit over 300wtq/400whp. But I don't know if that's going to happen! |
If this thing works as good as the other big blower setups, no one will be crying, everyone will be celebrating, because it will be awesome. 250wtq at 2k rpm should make it feel like a big ol chevy LS, which is awesome
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1206463)
If this thing works as good as the other big blower setups, no one will be crying, everyone will be celebrating, because it will be awesome. 250wtq at 2k rpm should make it feel like a big ol chevy LS, which is awesome
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 1175752)
There is a relationship between the front and rear O2 that allows the monitors to run and become "ready for test". I forget the details but it's something about the ratio of swinging from rich-to-lean in the two sensors and also that the max, min, and average voltages must be in a certain window. I made a thread about it here somewhere.
FWIW I built an electronic box (based on some specs I found online) that plugged into the rear O2 sensor connector and was tapped into the front sensor signal wires. It basically took the voltage from the front sensor, time-delayed it and reduced the amplitude to simulate what a rear sensor would output. There was a pot in the circuit so that you could "tune" the simulated signal and make the stock ECU happy (and not throw a CEL). I ran that when I had a M45 SC with a PowerCard and it worked like a boss once adjusted. Of course, when I went to a turbo, my "magic box" went bye-bye and the plans for it went away as well. I'm just saying this 'cause I know it can be done, and it's not terribly difficult. |
You can also run a O2 spacer with a reduced orifice in it which also works.
Oxygen Sensor Spacers & Isolators |
8 Attachment(s)
Todays small bit of progress.... Made a dummy throttle body.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424142035 Started gathering components to figure out where everything is going to go, found out EGR tube does not fit my reroute, so after researching, looks like I need to build a custom egr tube. Stock on is 1/2" OD Tubing, biggest I could find localy is 3/8" tubing. May work on this tonight, otherwise tomorrow, as it's cold outside.... If I use 3/8" for part of the EGR tube, will it flow enough to not throw an EGR code? Can a 99' miata even throw a code for low egr flow? |
Yes it can throw a code. Mine did and required cleaning out the ports in the intake manifold.
I don't think you'll have a problem with a 3/8" tube as long as the rest of the EGR system is cleaned out. |
Ok thanks. I think tomorrow I'm going to cut the stock one and connect it back with 3/8 tube. If it does indeed throw a low flow code in the future I'll have to order some 1/2" tube and redo it.
Lucky me it's cold and raining outside. I'll get back to work tomorrow! For now, going to work on some WI numbers. Actually, I'll post what I'm thinking and see what you guys think. Water Injection: So I have 2 goals for the water injection. 1. Supress knock/detonation. 2. Cool supercharger Water has infinite knock index, and will reduce temps in the cylinder, the more I spray the more the temps go down. My plan is to have 2 or 3 stages of water. "Mains" will be 1 nozzle/cylinder, direct port. These will be sized to spray a good amount of water, probably around 100cc/min/nozzle into each port. Goal with these is to completely stop detonation during WOT driving from 5-8K, the expected RPM range for the engine to operate at between gear changes. Secondary will be one nozzle, pre SC, that sprays some small amount of water into the SC to help keep it cool. I've been reading up, and it seems almost every SC failure is directly related to too much heat. Example, M62 on a miata dies, because it was pulleyed to make 20 PSI where it's inefficient (lots of wasted heat as rotors leak) and was running lots of booost (more heat) and spinning higher than it's rated (more heat) and sucking in underhood hot air (more heat!) and it overheats the SC (surprise!) and the rotors have a bad day and it dies. I gotta do some math, but basically it will be a small amount of water, pre-sc, to keep the peak blower temps down. So this nozzle doesn't need to run all the time, only when at say 5-8K like the mains. Could come on sooner I suppose but probably only needed during high RPM when it's having to work hard to build lots of boost. Possibly will be one more nozzle, that sprays into the motor before the plenum, after the intercoooler. If so, it will come on at a lower RPM so I can make more torque down low without knock. |
Very nice build. I can't wait to see the results. I love how all the fab work is done with common simple tools and not a fancy machine shop worth of equipment. Keep it up!
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Thanks man! Yeah I'm just using what I got... Flux core, jig saw, drill, a portaband, bastard file, clamps, hammers... Kinda wish I had a mill right now, I need to machine the base of my SC bracket flat where the SC mounts to it.
Anybody got a creative way to get it flat? It's steel, so sanding it flat would take forever... It's probably 30 thousands warped from welding, and that's after straitening it with a press! Odd shape won't fit on a belt sander. I can't think of anything reasonable other than setting it up in a mill and using an end mill to surface it, but I don't have a mill! Hate to spend the money/wait for someone else to mill it. Also not sure where I'd take it anyways. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1178044)
First idea of implementing my warning system.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414093132 I don't have the hardware design all figured out, but what I'm thinking now is use plexiglass to build a little box there. Design a sticker that looks like the front of the box with all the warnings, have the text cut out of the sticker. Place sticker on front of plexiglass. Use LEDs behind plexiglass to light up the text green/yellow/red depending on if it's good/bad/oh-shit-stop-now. Put dividers between sections so no bleed through. Still looking for LEDs that are bright enough, would prefer to use a RGB LED so I can do all colors with one LED. I would suggest looking into I2c 8 but I/O expanders or something similar. each chip can control 8 digital lines so you will need 3 chips for the 24 digital outputs to get red, yellow, and green control for all 12 warning lights. These use I2C so you would only have to run 4 wire from your micro controller (2 digital, 5V, GND). You can just use a phone jack to transmit the signal between devices and make the install much cleaner. http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PCF8574.pdf |
Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1206909)
This would be a useful device. A couple notes. If you want red green and yellow lights then each RGB LED will need 2 digital leads and the ground pin. For the 12 warning lights you have shown that will require 24 digital ouputs as well as 24 wires running from your Arduino or whatever micro controller your using.
I would suggest looking into I2c 8 but I/O expanders or something similar. each chip can control 8 digital lines so you will need 3 chips for the 24 digital outputs to get red, yellow, and green control for all 12 warning lights. These use I2C so you would only have to run 4 wire from your micro controller (2 digital, 5V, GND). You can just use a phone jack to transmit the signal between devices and make the install much cleaner. http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/PCF8574.pdf The warning system will be done in two stages. First is getting the sensors installled and working. THEN, after the car runs/drives, I'll tackle the hardware/display side of it. I have some ideas of how to implement the display that I think will be very very functional and not look to bad when completed. |
14 Attachment(s)
Update:
So this morning I got the EGR tube made. What a pain in the ass that was! I actually didn't take any pics of it, but I basically cut and rotated/bent the stock on in no less than 10 spots, and got it to fit but it was missing about 2.5" to connect the two pieces back together. The factory EGR tube is .502" OD on mine, I ended up buying some 3/8" OD brake line and cutting/bending/installing/welding that into it to complete it. To be honest, it turned out shitty. The brake lines are coated with something, and when I tried to weld them, it's messing up the metal, it fractures right where the weld stops. And by fracture, the first time I welded it, I set it down and it completely broke in half.... I ended up welding it a couple more times trying to make it better, it's crap, and I'm actually expecting it's going to break when I get some miles on it. I'll have to order some actual bare steel tubing to use to fix that spot next time. Oh well but for now egr tube is done till it cracks! So then I made my radiator mounts, just found my old ones, hammered them flat, cut shorter, bent in new correct spot, done. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 Then figured out more or less how I'm going to do the cooling hose from rear of head to radiator, with it connecting to a large mocal oil/water laminar flow heat exchanger/oil cooler. Gotta order some 45* silicone bends but that's going to work out ok, even clears most of the factory emmisions crap that goes on the passengers side fender area. Then started on my 2 quart accusump. It's friggin 12" by 4.something with no fittings, about 16-17" long with fittings. Not many places that will fit. I finally found a home for it under the car, under the crank pulley, but almost touching it, with the gauge end pointing towards the passengers side wheel, angled forward a touch. Here, it almost hits the crank, alternator belt, steering rack, passengers side tie rod, factory undertray bottom and passengers side, passengers side lower control arm, both a/c lines, and sway bar. But it actually doesn't it any of them! I started on the bracket for it, then changed my mind and started over with a better one. Basic design is two pieces of metal that are curved to fit against accusump, that are clamped to it, then weld these two pieces together, and weld them to a piece of metal that will go and bolt where a 17mm bolt is for the steering rack. I made the curved metal pieces, now need some 1/8" or better steel to build last piece. Tried to use factory engine hook, but it's too short... Pics! Accusump, 2 qt. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 Basically just cut a strip of 16 gauge steel, cut a piece of 3" tubing down its' length, and sandwhiched the strip between the cut piece and a piece of 3" tubing, then clamped it to squish the strip to be curved. It worked! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...pst47gera0.jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424239231 Tomorrow, buy thicker steel, build lower bracket, weld, drill and bolt to P/S rack bolt. Order silicone 45's for cooling system. Mock up remote filter, start working on fuel system. Question: Does anybody know where to buy the piece to delete the factory oil cooler? I basically need the little pipe nipple looking piece that's metric that will thread into the block and allow me to thread on my oil filter adapter. |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1207137)
Question: Does anybody know where to buy the piece to delete the factory oil cooler? I basically need the little pipe nipple looking piece that's metric that will thread into the block and allow me to thread on my oil filter adapter.
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Messed around a bit, looking at how to package the oil cooler/upper rad hose routing, a relay/fuse box I made, factory emmisions crap that goes on passengers side fender area, Passengers side IC pipes vs upper radiator hose, and fuel system. Also looked at how/where cold air intake will go. Ended up stopping and ordering a few things, now redoing my "to do" list to be a lot more accurate and up to date, and realizing I still need to order more stuff! So that's what I'm doing tonight, just getting a better plan together...
I did call a machine shop, going to bring my SC base to them in the AM, hopefully they can clamp it up and machine the base flat. I guess slow progress is still progress! Wish it would go together quicker, but damn packaging all this crap is a pain! That and I'm slow at fabbing stuff. Plus I'm having to figure out most of this as I go! I'm REALLY hoping to have the car running/driveable by May 1st. |
21 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by gesso
(Post 1207150)
I suspect (not 100% sure) that the oil filter nipple from a 2003-2004 Subaru forester EJ25 SOHC will be exactly what you are looking for. I have one in my pile of Subaru parts somewhere, if I can find it I'll test it on my broken BP.
Subaru SOHC EJ25 oil filter nipple part number Attachment 184329 Remove the big ass nut from the oil cooler/heater Attachment 184330 Remove the oil cooler/heater Attachment 184331 Remove the threaded pipe Attachment 184332 Install Subaru nipple Attachment 184333 Profit! Attachment 184334 The hex part of the nipple isn't quite below the filter mount surface. But I don't think it's an issue as the threads in the filter are recessed enough that there is no interference. Attachment 184335 |
Thanks Gesso! I ordered that part, should have it Tuesday, I'll test it and double-verify it works on my FM Adapter thing. Props times 23! I do appreciate as I've looked and this info I have not found posted anywhere. You should start a thread (or I will) and put tags on it and the part number for future people to find!
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Also I brought the SC base to a machine shop this AM, they wouldn't/couldn't tool up to hold it, ended up going to another shop they recommended and after talking to 3 different people, one guy there said he'd do it, cost 1 hr and 125 dollars.......... Ouch! But he said he'd get it done today, so at least good turn around time! If I had a machine shop/mill and the clamps and tooling needed, I'd do it myself but I don't!
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10 Attachment(s)
Made a little progress today. Brought the SC base to my machinist, he couldn't do it, went to another place, they did it, got it back today. It looks good, just wasn't cheap.
Also I made my 99 miata to GM HEI connector NGK sparkplug wires a while back, but they were too long, so I shortended them. Also discovered they wouldn't fit into the VVT head without adjusting them a bit, as the rubber was slightly too fat to go into the head. Anyways got those done. ALSO, I've been making myself a list of things to do, and an est time/cost for each step. That helps a bit, as I'm kinda lost on "what's next" as there's like 1000 things I need to do it seems. Tonight I'm working on my list, as every time I start to do something, I'm missing a part/bolt/fitting/something so trying to identify everything I STILL NEED and get it ordered. So doing that again tonight! I should make a gantt chart really. Hell maybe I will. Pics because who likes reading! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424401477 |
Also what do you guys think about this idea: Get it running with the engine already in the car.
Basically the motor in the car has 700 miles on it, rods only bottom end, 10:1 comp. Head is new new new, fully built. Bottom end has had a vibration since I first started it, no idea why, but it does. I think something is out of balance in the bottom end of the engine, as above say 7K, the engine vibrates with furry to the point that you could NOT hold the throttle body after about 6K. It's worn the bottom end out some (probably main bearings) to the point that when I crank it, you can hear it whirring a bit, and it takes a sec to get oil pressure, but no knocking. I would have to put timing belt back on, that's about it. Benefit would be that I could tune it/troubleshoot issues on an engine that I don't immediately need to go drive to break in. So I could idle it 12 times if I'm having issues when I first get it running, for example, or tuning it, etc. Also any trash from IC pipes, SC base, in general anything that COULD still be in the parts after cleaning will go through old engine, not new engine, though I don't expect this to be an issue. Main reason is to work out bugs and tune it as I've never tuned a SC car before. Thoughts? Also would get it on the road sooner, so another plus! Could potentially get the thing running for a few weeks, then swap the bottom end one day. I also don't have means to pull the engine right now...., hate to buy Another engine hoist... |
I responded to your PM. When you have a moment, give me a shout
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