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Gapped crank sensor to 0.015 inches and turned the trimpot on the mainboard 1 turn CW. Car runs without missing a beat now. Just drove it for the first time tonight. Needs a **** ton of work to tune again since it keeps trying to die when idling....
I don't want to fix all these oil leaks. Sigh. As long as it's not the FMS or RMS, I'll take care of it soon enough. I'm so happy that it's running!!!
Thanks for the help troubleshooting this Brain!
Last edited by ridethecliche; 05-23-2018 at 08:14 AM.
Gapped crank sensor to 0.015 inches and turned the trimpot on the mainboard 1 turn CW. Car runs without missing a beat now. Just drove it for the first time tonight. Needs a **** ton of work to tune again since it keeps trying to die when idling....
I don't want to fix all these oil leaks. Sigh. As long as it's not the FMS or RMS, I'll take care of it soon enough. I'm so happy that it's running!!!
congrats!
Now do some tuning and crank up that boost.
I miss my turbo. Kraken stuff came in, but turbo still on backorder. Over a month already... 100hp feels so slow.
Gapped crank sensor to 0.015 inches and turned the trimpot on the mainboard 1 turn CW. Car runs without missing a beat now. Just drove it for the first time tonight. Needs a **** ton of work to tune again since it keeps trying to die when idling....
I don't want to fix all these oil leaks. Sigh. As long as it's not the FMS or RMS, I'll take care of it soon enough. I'm so happy that it's running!!!
It was pretty surreal to actually drive the damn thing.
There's a low rpm rattle that's eluding me right now, but it totally goes away with revs so that's reassuring especially since oil pressure is good throughout.
Then there are the oil leaks...and oh...the alternator was sparking at the connection so that's great.
I haven't broken anything....yet. Hopefully it'll stay that way!
Finally had a chance to look at the car again today after baby catching rotation finally finished. Those things are slippery little *******!
In any event, I did the first oil change and I'm running another round of break in oil. I should get a magnetic drain plug, but there wasn't anything concerning at all in the oil as far as I could tell so I'll keep my fingers crossed. There is, however, a noise that is really nerve wracking that seems to come during idle and goes away with any load. I have a feeling it's an idler pulley or tensioner, so I'm going to have to order the bulk of a TB kit now... Also crossing my fingers that the oil leak is from the camshaft seal so I'll try doing all the above at the same time.
I do have one quick question: How much of the dipstick should be showing from the end of the tube? I ordered a new dipstick and tube since I think mine were mismatched and/or bent, so i got the nb ones. The dipstick only barely comes out the other side when it's always all the through. I'm seeing oil level at just about 'L' when I put in 4qt. The other dipstick I have is longer and shows between half and full. It probably doesn't matter because I'll likely half a quart in anyway, but I'm curious why there's such a difference. I'm almost tempted to use the longer one so I can actually see the oil level instead of having it at 'L' when it has a full 4 qts! And for the record, I'm not running an oil cooler.
Spoiler
I wonder if the overlords are going to involve the most recent subject matter in the new thread title
Just keep buying longer dipsticks until your happy with your oil level.
4 qts should be 'full' or closer to that end, not on empty. I'm not even sure that the dipstick can see the oil if the tip isn't protruding out enough past the tube (i.e. the oil level can't physically be over where the tube begins, no?). If the dipstick is reading empty when the right amount of oil is in there, something isn't calibrated correctly. Obviously I was going to add another half quart and see if it made a difference.
I think I may have used an NA8 pan since that's what I had on hand. The goal was to get better resolution of the oil level after calibrating/marking it to whatever amount was put in...not compensate for a lack of oil.
1. Put in 4 quarts
2. Note level on dipstick.
3. This is the new "full".
Like six says: It isn't the length of your dipstick that matters, it's how you use it. Unless it isn't even getting wet. Then you've got real problems.
Fak. I was wondering why there was a big soppy mess on the floor!
Originally Posted by sixshooter
1. Put in 4 quarts
2. Note level on dipstick.
3. This is the new "full".
I've seen you say that before, but the oil level barely registered. The car was on level ground after having been run for a little bit, so that shouldn't have affected things. It was barely on the dipstick.
Originally Posted by wackbards
Like six says: It isn't the length of your dipstick that matters, it's how you use it. Unless it isn't even getting wet. Then you've got real problems.
It was *barely* getting wet. Hence the thought to use and mark the longer dipstick ala six's suggestion. I'll check again after driving the car next time. I made sure to look for the reflection of the oil since it's clean right now, but I might have misjudged it.
This is why I was wondering if there's a difference between the oil pans which could lead to this difference.
NB tube in NB dipstick. I'm not sure how this could ever read anything past L.
??? Dipstick in NB tube. Oh look! Resolution! It doesn't bottom out when it goes in... so.
Mostly I'm just curious why there's such a drastic difference. I wonder if others have mismatched sets and aren't actually seeing the 'actual' oil level unless they did what six said. I remember hustler realizing this at some point too. I think he was overfilling without meaning to.
05-23-2018, 12:34 AM
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