So it looks like the bolt I moved is the positive output of the alternator, which is why it was insulated in plastic before I cut it apart and welded it back together. I'm planning to coat the entire thing in multiple coats of black epoxy to re-insulate it. Anyone see any problems with that?

 

Started on the manifold:

 

Oo, pretty! I love watching these builds. I'm interested to see how the collector comes together at that angle. Are you back in the BA for good?

Also, nice pr0n on the wall above the workbench

 

Are you going for an ECU reflash for Engine Management?

 

Yes, it is going to be pretty tough to get the other two runners to meet nicely at the collector. I may have to move the two runners I started with, but I'm happy to have actually started working on the manifold!

 

I will be using one of two tuners, haven't made my mind up yet. They will be using a program called ECUtek to reflash the stock ecu. There is also a racerom aspect to the reflash that will opens up a bunch of other features such as launch control and other cool stuff.

 

In the stock ECU? Really? Thats kinda awesome actually.

 

We've been using an ecutek reflash on our 2010 endurance car without problems. Launch control, flatshift and map switching all available through cruise control switches. It was one of the few things on that car that didn't give us any problems

 

Does ecutek let you tune for boost and such? I am slowly looking into NC's. Engine management will be one of the big deciders on if I pick one up or not.

 

Yes, but DIY tuning with the ECUTek is stupid expensive, its like $1500 for the cable or something dumb. Theres another tuner that works well with the NC thats much much cheaper, I forget what its called, does most of the same stuff as the ECUTek. There's also the mazdatune or what ever its called that supports almost all the new mazdas and thats also pretty cheap for a DIYer but theres like no info on the internet of people using it and whats out there makes the interface look like a bitch to work with. Not quite hydra 2.6 and older bitch, but pretty bad.

 

Don't know about boost. You need the obd to usb cable though but in sure it was less than 1500. I did like how you could log literally everything through the stock ecu and sensors.

 

Its $800 for just the cable and software. Racerom costs more on top of that EcuTek ProECU Programming Kit and Datalogger with MOTOEAST REFLASH for MX5, Basic Normally Aspirated Tuning

Open flash is the one I was thinking of thats only $500. And Mazdaedit is only $250 + a tactrix cable, but thats the one with the crappy interface.

 

I wasn't sure that the initial manifold design was going to come together, so I cad'ed up this design and am going to start over with this design. Using a real 4-1 collector.

 

nifty! I like the armature for placing the turbo. Any concerns about the runners hitting anything?

 

Tiny concern with it contacting a body piece that is protruding, but that is a small concern because there is about an inch of material that could be cut away if necessary. I don't think it will contact, and I don't want to cut into that piece.

 

Better take down those renders, those look FAR better than what those jackholes at Tuning Done Rong have come up with and I bet they jack your design.

Looking good man!

 

No worries, they will probably spot weld the turbo to the manifold.

 

Its funny because its not outside the realm of possibility.

 

At this point I wouldn't really mind if someone copied my design. Once I get the efr on there and other NC people see the performance of it, I bet there will be a lot of people who want the system replicated. I'm not building parts to sell anymore, so someone will have to copy it. It's literally the only low mount location that will fit an EFR so not much can change design wise.

 

Better yet, seam-weld mani to head.