On an unrelated note, I might grab a 3.6 diff off a friend parting things out. Anyone interested in buying a 3.9 torsen? Kinda need to line things up before pouncing because of the lack of garage having :(

Still struggling a bit with the idle tuning. Car idles okay if you let out the clutch near 1k but damn near always stalls if you let it out earlier.

I did the idle valve test and changing the valve duty % led to no change in the revs. Unsure what gives. I might have another valve I can try but I'm not sure why this just stopped working if it's actually dead.

Edit: Tried a different valve and still nothing. Checked voltage with the key in the on position and... I'm not getting anything. I checked against the vvt plug to make sure I was doing it right and I have 12V there. So I'm not really sure why I don't have voltage here at all.

Set your idle for 1050 RPMs and solve the problem.

Hard to do with varying load if I have no iacv...

3O is the 12v supply for the IACV on a NB1. I would start checking for 12V there.




https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0cd4a44e58.png

Since it's just pulsing ground, is there any reason that I can't grab 12V from the egr solenoid that's not in use? I can splice that in and it should work if the ecu can still pulse ground, right?

Not really the most correct way to do it I guess but I'm not sure how I'll fix it otherwise unless it's just a tiny bit of solder that's off or shorting somewhere in the harness...

If it were me I would do some very basic troubleshooting before putting a band aid on it. If you're going to do what you're proposing you'll want to check for continuity to ground on that wire first. Otherwise you'll pop the egr fuse.

Fixing what is wrong > creating a new set of problems


Also:

Been working with Stefanst a bit to get this sorted and I think we figured it out. I may have moved something inadvertently when I was wiring in vvt.

So gonna backtrack my shenanigans and see what the hell I did.

Also, the GOTJ thing took me a second. I'll def watch out for trees. Thanks for the reminder haha.

Depending where you are in NJ. Watch out for deer as well. Up in the northern part they are like rodents. Good news is, usually they are out at night/twilight and the pop ups do a good job of throwing them out of the way.

NB masterrace. No popups.

I suggest up armoring your windsheild then. I am dreading the day I tag one in my NB.

I have idle! Thanks Stefanst!
If anyone wants to make fun of me I messed up by moving the wire for idle power to the wrong spot when inputting vvt. I didn't want to mess with the MS so I spliced the wires together to get power instead of running a jumper in the MS. My hot restarts are total trash right now but the car runs okay!

I have now put 250 miles on my fm2 with the wastegate wired open. Most of this was done on a loop with a bunch of stop signs and variable speed limits from 25-50 mph. I think it's time I start running on wastegate pressure while still babying it.

I had honestly forgotten how absolutely terrifying it is to drive an NA miata in traffic. Especially one with low compression...

Car has been driving pretty well with some little issues here and there, i.e. I'm only making like 8 psi on wastegate even though my EBC was making 22 or so earlier. So I either have a small boost leak (don't think so?) or I adjusted the wastegate when I redid my setup, which is possible. Or my WG isn't closing all the way which would be annoying.

The biggest issue I'm having right now is with triggering idle. My car sometimes just doesn't go into CL idle and stalls, then it will start with the key and die again because idle won't trigger. I'm really not exactly sure what to do about this. Issue is most apparent on hot restarts, but seems to not happen if I engine brake to about 1.5k and then put it into neutral. If I clutch in while driving at say 3-4k and put the car in neutral, it'll just straight up dies.

I'm attaching a tune and logs and hoping for suggestions. The last log (23.36.24) shows a few hot restarts where the car starts revs up a little bit and then dies. If I give it some gas, it'll keep running, but it dies the second I let off. If the car drives for a little bit it seems to start behaving itself a little bit more but it's pretty unpredictable.

Any input would be much appreciated. I'm on the firmware with engine states fwiw.

You're on 'use last value' instead of using the initial values table for closed loop idle. How come? I just switched on my car and its so much better.

No real reason for it tbh, I think I used the table in the past. I can go back to it no problem, but I don't think that it's the full issue. CL Idle doesn't even come on when this issue happens. I'm going to recheck my slow decel again.

Few updates:

1) So much to do so little time.

2) Stefanst helped a metric fahkton with the tuning for idle. It idles a bit richer (as i think sixshooter and others do as well), but it's able to catch itself even under load and ac etc. So that's a win.

3) I'm pretty sure I have a boost leak somewhere because my spool is worse now than it was before the head work and updated kraken setup. I somehow doubt that the updated setup flows worse with a bigger elbow. Head was also refreshed.... so boost leak is likely cause because it just builds much slower than previously. The 3.6 should help with spool at a given rpm due to load, right?

4) I'm sitting back at about 300hp per VD. Can't really advance anymore due to leak and wastegate. Still less power than I was hoping to make after the update, but it's fine for now. I need to fix the issues and reassess.

5) I have a small coolant leak somewhere. Solution for now is to keep topping up coolant till I can troubleshoot a bit more. I miss having a garage...

6) 3.6 ratio is very very nice though I still wish it was lower for cruise. 80 at 3800 or whatever is still too damn high.

7) I bought a harness bar and need to install it. Debating whether I'm going to take the plunge and commit to harnesses and bucket seats for the street. From what I've read, running regular belts is sub optimal. Which is a bummer, because that would be very convenient... though given I have an NB I'd need to find a way to bolt/weld them in. Soooooo

8) I bought a hitch to help move things around in the car from time to time. I need to get the car inspected in MA again in August/Sept and was hoping to be able to bring back a set of wheels etc from my GF's place up there.

9) Residency is... busy.

10) That's all folks!

How far are you from Hopatcong? I have a boost leak tester (and a garage).

My NA6 has a leak rad and I think a leak at the front corner of the headgasket. I just top up the over flow every few hundred miles and all is good.

I know the NA8s still have the backing plates in the trans tunnel for the seat belt... Things. Haven't poked an NB enough to know, but a drill and a piece of steel will do it.

You can put down a towel and strap wheels/tires to the trunk lid, or the roll bar if you are going top down.

Hey man! I was away for a bit and just started a be rotation where I'm doing ish 12 days in a row.

I may have some time over the weekends if I get off in the early afternoon. You're about an hour away so that might actually work if youre down and have some other stuff you need done that I could maybe help with!

I'll send you a message.

Anyone have a rec for a WG bracket to put on? I still need to take my turbo off because I used a gasket and it blew out (duh). While I was at it, I noticed that my wastegate bracket was cracking. I guess I can jb weld it together as a stopgap if I need to while I have something on order... but honestly I just need to get something ordered.

I'm running a 2871 on a kraken manifold if it matters. I'm not sure what mine came with exactly, but I'd like to not have to replace this part again. Yeesh.