the jist of the video, as far as the water/meth injection went, is that they hit a wall with the mix and saw no additional cooling or power gains regardless of how much more they added. They then switched to straight meth injection without changing anything else and saw substantial gains in cooling and power. They concluded that water does not belong inside the combustion area. I will rewatch the video and get some numbers for you.

Yeah I've read similar data from others so I believe that to be true.
I'm not really looking for overall cooling gains from the water injection. Im already on e85 with a good sized intercooler. I'm looking for hopefully improvements in the compressor efficiency at very high pressure ratios. Im running 35-36 psi now and am getting ready to start sneaking in more boost as long as I can fuel it. Plan is for 6.30ish at around 110 or so mph in the 1/8th soon hopefully. Im currently trapping 108mph. that takes about 34-35psi on my setup to achieve. To exceed 110mph in the 1/8th will likely take 37-38+ psi on my setup. That puts me way up on the compressor map so hopefully can add a couple percent improvement compressor efficiency up there. Besides I already have most of the stuff to test it. Might be an improvement, might not. Will be easy to find out.

If I do try it I will be using straight water. I don't want to inject methanol preturbo. If I did methanol preturbo and had an intake valve hang open or float it would create a HUGE backfire in the intercooler and piping. With it being pressurized, large volume and with a combustible fuel it would be a sight to see LOL...

Question: Does anyone on here have a real gt35 turbine housing you can send a pic of the volute tongue?
Approximately from the same angle as what I took below would be very helpful.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8102748f17.jpg

Well after watching this video I decided to modify my turbine housing. I built up a little material by welding at the end of the turbine housing "tongue" and ground to form a wedge about 3/4" long, flush on leading edge, and tapered up about 1/8th inch or so. Really just guessed on the size and shape. It was definitely an improvement. Turbo spools better and initial testing indicates no real additional back pressure in turbine. Also performance once in full boost is equal to prior according to dragy as best I can tell. Only difference I can discern is faster spoolup.

Below is before and after
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7051c1ac60.jpg

after
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d8e1aebd81.jpg

Also went back and compared dragy data from the 6.57 @ 105 pass with the gtx3076 and the 6.60 @ 108 gtx3576 to compare differences.

3076 data 6.57 at 105.... 1.52 60' ..... 40-60mph 1.06s....60-80 1.41s.... 40-100 4.45s.....0-100 5.87s.
3576 data 6.60 at 108.... 1.649 60'.....40-60mph .97s....60-80 1.30s....40-100 4.03s.....0-100 5.67s

looking at above dragy data its clear the 3576 is quicker overall than the 3076. The weakness in the 3576 is being more lazy to spool which equates to lower 60 ft time and elapsed time. If I can get it to spool like the 3076 I think it will be somewhere in the 6.40 range at same boost level. After that goal is reached it should be only a matter of a couple more pounds of boost to reach my ultimate goal of this project of 6.30s in the 1/8th.

Yes, that does sound like it is flowing pretty well with that quick a drop from 150PSI.
Unfortunately the valves are just rated for flow with water. (looks like I had the direction of the water flow reversed on my diagram)
Valve specs and flow

Sounds like you have a good plan. Upsize everything!

Switching from a log style to a tubular manifold would alleviate a lot of back pressure and help spool.

Thanks for the ideas on the turbine housing, good stuff there. I don't have a real gt35 housing, but one of my fake ones looks like it could use some improvement. My stuff is all coming out after next week anyway, so I will modify the turbine housing tongue then.

Here is another video that shows the difference in the turbine housing tonque of the real vs fake gt35. About the 3 minute mark is where it starts to point out turbine housing difference.
Also ordered the 230 psi 3/4" orifice solenoid valve to replace my 150psi valve. I may add more storage capacity too if needed, but will test with the higher pressure and newly modded turbine housing at the track first. Based off what I can see with just the modded turbine housing and my existing spool shot setup, I am very confident spool time at launch will be substantially improved. Not sure yet if it will match the 3076 spool without more tank volume, but will know next time at track.

Well snap! I just found out track is closed for the season. Oh well, guess the 6.30s will have to wait until next year.

On a positive note I did get the higher pressure valve in and installed. It has a bit of a delay when opening at above 190psi, which is strange since its rated for 230psi. Im thinking there may be a bit of a voltage drop going to the solenoid with all the wiring and switches. I think I will open through a relay connected to main heavy power cable at engine compartment relay box and mounted near the solenoid, which should help with any voltage drop. Hopefully that will get rid of any opening delays above 190psi. However even with just going from 150 to 190psi, combined with the mod I did to the turbine housing, produced a noticeable improvement in the effectiveness of the spool shot system on this turbo. In fact, in doing some dragy testing in the 40-60 and 60-80mph range it just got its quickest 60-80 to date! Happy about that at least.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...652af02684.jpg


Small update:
Just installed some ign1a coils and a rx7 alternator. Pat cut me a really good deal on the coils, bracket and wiring he was running. So I am mostly posting this update to publicly give him a huge thank you.
I was using the stock 99 coils and had to run a very narrow plug gap. I was getting down to .012-.013 on the gap at 37 psi and even at that plugs didn't last very long before missfiring at that boost level. I experimented with some knock off r8 cops, they would only support boost into low 30's before missfiring. I also tested some yukon ls coils. I had some ecu resets with those coils when doing logs along with occasional random missfires with those. So the stock 99 coils work the best for my setup, until now that is.... These ign1a coils are allowing me to run a wider gap and are running very cleanly with no missfires at any rpm or boost level, so am am very pleased with these. Hoping plugs will last longer now too. Track will be opening back up early next month. Hoping for some new personal best times very soon.

Hello fellows, quick update here. I went to the track last night to take a judo buddy for some ride alongs down the track. He is just a tad under 200lbs so I wasn't looking to break any records. I've taken him down the track many times before and he seems to cost at least a tenth of a second and at least 1 mph+ in trap speed. In the relatively low powered, lightweight cars of ours additional weight makes a pretty substantial difference. First pass was with a fairly soft leave to basically test the track was a 6.92 with the two of us. Second pass was a 6.67. This was with getting more aggressive on the launch. That pass would have likely been somewhere in the upper 6.50s with just me. On the third pass I decided to throw more air pressure in the tanks for the spool shot system. I have been running in the 150-160 psi range. I recently changed to a higher rated solenoid to allow up to 230psi, but have yet to test any pressures higher than 160psi at the track to this point. So I figured might as well start testing more pressures now that I can. On the third pass I charged the tanks to about 185psi and tried to stand on the brake harder to get a more aggressive launch. I really wanted to see if I could touch in the 6.50s with him in the car as that would infer possibly 6.40ish range going solo. Well the car did respond to the aggressive leave with more air pressure, for about 20 feet anyways lol..... broke an axle. The additional weight and faster ramp up to full boost was just too much for the stock parts. No biggie as I knew they were on borrowed time anyways. I'm actually surprised they last as long as they did with the abuse i've been handing them. For now I'm just going to pop in a new axle until I make a decision on how to move forward on the next rear end setup. However will be addressing that in the near future.

What options are you considering for the rear end?

What I was kind of considering going full racecar mode for a future project was doing a back half setup using a solid axle 8.8 narrowed using 2 short side axles, wheel tubs and a 4 link setup. A setup like that would allow me to do a transbrake in the transmission and could handle whatever most any 4 banger could throw at it. However with the way the economy is most likely heading I'm trying to put that idea out of my mind. Now more seriously considering just using insane axles 500 axles and seeing what I can do with them. If I dont do a transbrake they should be ok.

For now I'm just replacing the stock axle to get it going immediately. while I am at it I also just changed the ratio from the 4:10 to a 4:30, again plated and welded. That may seem counter productive to axle life, and technically it is. However when I started working on the car I noticed the right rear tire was rubbing pretty heavily. Most likely due to my friends weight and squatting of the rear on a hard launch. That put the wheel in a bit of a bind and helped contribute to axle failure. while its apart Im doing a little more clearanceing with the Tonya Harding. The stock axles lasted for a few years with probably 60 or more 1/8th mile passes in the 6s and untold hundreds of street hits. The way my car applies power is more gentle on the driveline than would be with a manual tranny or transbrake. However if axle failure seems to be becoming a thing now the insane axles may be next up on the list.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3cf9a7728.jpg

Went to the track tonight for some test and tune after replacing broken axle with another used miata axle. Also changed the gears from 4:10 to 4;30. The timeslip shown was my best tonight. Looking at the 60' I guess I could have been more aggressive on the launch. I thought I was being more aggressive than the 60' time indicates. I suppose breaking axles was in the back of my mind and holding me back a bit LOL... Although this is not my quickest et to date, it is my best trap speed so far. Darn near 110mph in the 1/8th, pretty good for whats in this junkpile of a miata. However the jury is still out on the 4:30 vs 4:10 gearing. Need to do more testing to determine which one stays.
Although the axles survived tonight, I did somehow manage to blow up a muffler LOL.... I was hard on the rev limiter and apparently the muffler had a combustible mixture of fuel in it during an ignition event. Was an impressive bang!

Quick update, changes and additional data:

Hello fellows. I just switched back to the gtx3076 from the gtx3576 after further digging into data from prior testing. In post #104 I show the dragy data while at the track from the best 3076 run with one of the best 3576 runs. I mentioned it being clear that the 3576 being faster overall, but not quite as quick (there is a difference). What I should have done in addition to reviewing the data from the timeslips and dragy is go back and look at the logs. I assumed the gt3076 was run at the same boost level, but is was actually about 2psi or so less. It had been a while since the 6.57 run with the 3076 and it must have been after the swap to the 3576 when I added a couple psi, I was thinking it was done prior, but my recollection was apparently wrong. The 6.60 at 108 and the 6.58 at 109 (almost 110mph, I think air temps were cooler this day) runs with the 3576 was done with an average throughout the pass of about 36psi or very slightly under, the 6.57 at 105 run was done with 34psi or very slightly under. The 3076 would consistently 60' at least a tenth better than the 3576 with 2psi less. I mentioned in the #104 post that if I could get the larger turbo to 60' like the smaller turbo then 6.40s should be doable. After swapping back to the 3076 and doing some dragy testing with adding more boost to match the 3576 I think very good chance for 6.40something next time at the track. The dragy indicates the 3076 should trap very close to the 3576 but may need about 1/2psi or so more to do it, so matching the best bottom end combined with topend 6.40s should be there. I also swapped back to the 4:10s from the 4:30, but that may have been a mistake to do so soon. I will test the 3076 at new boost level with both gears to try and determine which is best on my setup.

Another recent change was to replumb the fuel rail with the regulator after the rail. I have the regulator mounted on the firewall as was returning back to the tank from there and running deadhead to the rail from there. That setup worked fine on my id1000s and extra injector setup. However after swapping to the 1500cc injectors it was running lean on restart for a minute or so when heat soaked. plumbing the regulator after the rail mostly corrected the issue.

I have had a few people asking me about hp figures. I have no idea, nor do I think too much of most dyno numbers. Dynos and virtual dyno are great for setup and tuning an individual car but for comparing car to car is not appropriate in my mind. Too many variables. The very end of the video below does a good job of demonstrating exactly my thoughts on dyno numbers.

Your original intention sounded like you wanted to as quick as possible or at least 6.30s, now you are revisiting an old combo to maximize it and hopefully run 40s. This confuses me. I understand that every number made up on the small end pays back about double on the big end but do you think the 3076 is capable of 30s? It seems to me that the 3076 is pretty much maxed out for you.

No confusion.

My ultimate goal with this project is still to run in the 6.30s range on a very low budget. So far got it to 6.50s so gotta get 6.40s next and work down from there. I'm technically not revisiting an old combo since I never ran the 3076 at this boost level at the track.

I have a pretty large body of data to draw from now and am extremely confident either turbo will eventually get this car into the 6.30 range. However Im not sure if the 3576 can do it without a transbrake and either a little higher stall converter and/or a converter dump setup or nitrous spool assist. I can do the transbrake, but I've never built a converter dump system, however it seems simple enough to set up. I suspect those may be required to get the 3576 to get a good enough 60' time to get there. Doing any of those will essentially require me to go ahead and step up to either redo the rear end setup on the car or go with the insane axles at a minimum, neither of which I want to do just yet, but may eventually.

I think the faster ramp up rate of the 3076 will get in the 6.40s range with just footbraking the car, which I may be able to sneak by with using the stock axles. I believe the 3576 does make a little more power at the last few hundred rpm of my rev range due to its lower back pressure turbine (they both have the same compressor) but I cant get it to match the ramp up of the 3076 even with more air tank pressure and volume or using the nitrous setup, which I have yet to use at the track. Maybe a lot more tank volume will do the trick, but i'm already up to about roughly 9 gallons storage capacity, don't want to add more and dont want to test nitrous at the track with the stock rear and axles.

If the 3076 will get me into the 6.40 range at the current boost level as it sits, then it should only be a matter of adding another pound or so boost and losing maybe 140 or so pounds to get in the 6.30s. I really havent tackled serious weight loss yet, but plan too. Will keep it streetable though. Likely not going all out race car, at least don't plan to, but that too may change eventually LOL...

I'm trying to test one change at a time and will be testing other things as well along the way in addition to weight loss and a little extra boost. At any rate, this junkpile is posting some pretty good numbers for whats in it.

hello fellows
I went to the track a couple weeks ago for some tnt with the gt3076 but with boost upped a bit to match what I've been running with the 3576 to see how it would do. I made 3 attempts but could not get a clean run. the car would leave well and then fall on its face after about 50' or so for about 2 tenths of a second and then pick back up and run normally after that. My best pass with that issue was a 6.77. I figured out the cause of the issue though. A couple days prior to going to the track on that day I installed a capacitor on the 12+ for the coils to clean up the signal a bit. I've done that on the other coils I've run but hadn't done that after switching to the Ign-1a coils. I figured wouldn't hurt to do so. Well when I installed the capacitor I tied the ground portion of the capacitor to the nearest ground wire to where I installed the capacitor. I was too lazy to trace to see where that ground actually went. Turns out it was the ground for the spool shot solenoid! When I went back and looked at the logs the car falling on its face corresponds with apparent closing of the spool shot solenoid. Its a large solenoid so I guess when it closed it sent enough of a voltage spike to shut down the ignition temporarily. To correct I ran a dedicated ground and while I was at it put a diode across the spool solenoid which is something I've been meaning to do anyways. That fixed the issue I was having at that track outing.

Now to bring up to date with recent changes and track outing last night.
I've been going back and forth in my mind about doing a transmission with a transbrake. Been wanting to do it but didnt want to break stuff, which I thought it might. Well I came across a video that the sloppy mechanics guys put out for essentially doing what I will call doing a fake transbrake. What they are doing is foot braking and essentially configuring the shift solenoids to force 3rd gear when enabled at launch while shifter is in 1st gear. The foot brake can hold 3rd gear to allow the converter to stall much higher than when in first. At launch when the switch is released it immediately configures solenoids to revert back to first.

After seeing that video I figured hummm, I think I will look at the fluid paths for my transmission to see if oil will flow to the clutch pack used for 3rd gear while the spool valve is in low position. Wouldnt you know it sure enough did! So I figured what the heck. I could test this very easily without actually going back into the transmission in the car. Its just a matter of added a couple relays to appropriately configure the solenoids when enabled. Well it works. I have it set up to work off my foot brake when its enabled and revert back to normal and fire the spool shot at same to brake is released. I have also set up launch control to work with it, so just now started playing with that. When I set this up I put the 3576 back on to test to see if I could build any boost at all when on the fake tbrake and also because I wanted to pull the 3076 off to weld up and shape the tongue as I had done on the 3576. When testing in my driveway I was able to get up to about 3900rpm and about 9psi on the fake tbrake whereas without it I can only get about 2800 or so before it starts pushing through the brakes.

So I decided to go to track last night to test latest change. The setup was with the 3576 as I wanted to test with it since I had the 3076 removed for modification. I also lowered the launch control rpm from 3900 to 3400 rpm as first time testing at the track with this I wanted to have a baseline to build on before driveline parts start letting go.
I am very pleased with the way things went last night. With this turbo I could NEVER before get it to 60 foot in the 1.50 range, usually something in the 1.60s is what it would do. I got it to 60' a 1.53 first time out!! Thats about what the 3076 did best ever. I'm thinking with more aggresive launch control setup high 1.40s may be in the cards. Definitely with the 3076.

It was a VERY hot day yesterday. I wasnt really expecting records even with the fake tbrake, but it worked well enough that it did do a pb for this car even in the heat and with a conservative launch control setup! It went a 6.56 which beats the prior best a touch. I'm actually a little concerned to test this with the 3076 and the modded tongue with the fake tbrake while using a more aggressive launch control. Don't know if the rear and axles can take a launch that will 60' in the 1.40 range, but we will find out lol.... below is best last night. I only made 3 passes. Two were with testing launch control and one was just carrying a passenger and launching as before.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6ad30ef09.jpg

Got a funny story as well. On one of my runs I was lined up with a z06 c6 who the driver was apparently talking smack. I beat him by a bunch. After that pass someone came up to me and shook my hand thanking me. Said he just won a case of beer bet from that pass lol!!

Sounds like a fun time!

So sick!