Rebuild all the salvage Miatas! ASS!
#682
I've yet to hear good feedback about the stupid EMS4 from ANYONE that's not selling them.
I've also yet to hear good feedback about the stupid hydra from ANYONE actually trying to tune one on their own and not completely dependent on Jeremy@FM or someone else deemed a "hydra guru".
I have no problem believing stock MSM "cops" can last all the way to 350 since stock ignition on my car had no problem @ 300 on e85.
If $1400 means you will have a 100% flawlessly running car though, its actually not too bad IMO. Basic MS3 from Rev is in the 900 range these days.
The fuel issue is weird, maybe a failing fpr? Because I can tell for sure ID1000's and wally 255 can easily support 300 and even 350 on stock pressure, and likely much more with a fpr.
Just my thoughts, in no particular order. Hopefully I didn't miss anything.
And don't get bummed out man, at least you're making progress. Your car will be epic yet
I've also yet to hear good feedback about the stupid hydra from ANYONE actually trying to tune one on their own and not completely dependent on Jeremy@FM or someone else deemed a "hydra guru".
I have no problem believing stock MSM "cops" can last all the way to 350 since stock ignition on my car had no problem @ 300 on e85.
If $1400 means you will have a 100% flawlessly running car though, its actually not too bad IMO. Basic MS3 from Rev is in the 900 range these days.
The fuel issue is weird, maybe a failing fpr? Because I can tell for sure ID1000's and wally 255 can easily support 300 and even 350 on stock pressure, and likely much more with a fpr.
Just my thoughts, in no particular order. Hopefully I didn't miss anything.
And don't get bummed out man, at least you're making progress. Your car will be epic yet
#683
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No, $1400+tuning. This last session cost him $500.
Rev MS3 would give him $500 for tuning before he reached just the initial price of the Hydra, but I've already voiced my concerns with that above.
Edit: I should say that with a Rev unit you specify your setup, '01 coils, boost, 36-1 trigger wheel, etc, and he supposedly gives you a decent base map to start with.
Rev MS3 would give him $500 for tuning before he reached just the initial price of the Hydra, but I've already voiced my concerns with that above.
Edit: I should say that with a Rev unit you specify your setup, '01 coils, boost, 36-1 trigger wheel, etc, and he supposedly gives you a decent base map to start with.
#684
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Thanks a ton for the input Vlad.
If the Hydra would be $1400 and DONE then I'd probably do it. But it won't. It'll be $1400, plus any extra features if i want to (that's the alpha system, the most basic, and I don't know what all it includes.. probably evrything I need), Plus TUNING, that puts me at $2k easy. Plus, I still won't have learned how to tune or anything.
I think I want to learn how to tune.
I am formulating a plan. Tell me what you all think:
1. Get the car running as good as I can with what I've got, sort the fueling, and attend MRLS and the other track day that's paid for in September.
2. After this season is over, order the MS3 from Rev and send the car off to get the QP replaced.
3. After it's back from the body shop, Swap out ECUs, wire the WG flapper open, and learn to tune the thing. There's SO MUCH SUPPORT here from people who really, really know their stuff. Between what Josh already knows and what I can learn here, and Kris at KO willing to rent his dyno for just $60/hour, I don't think it'll cost me much more than the price of the ECU to get it going. Well, a couple hours of dyno time and some beer for Josh should do it, I hope.
4. Profit, and in the future, I can tune my own vehicles.
If the Hydra would be $1400 and DONE then I'd probably do it. But it won't. It'll be $1400, plus any extra features if i want to (that's the alpha system, the most basic, and I don't know what all it includes.. probably evrything I need), Plus TUNING, that puts me at $2k easy. Plus, I still won't have learned how to tune or anything.
I think I want to learn how to tune.
I am formulating a plan. Tell me what you all think:
1. Get the car running as good as I can with what I've got, sort the fueling, and attend MRLS and the other track day that's paid for in September.
2. After this season is over, order the MS3 from Rev and send the car off to get the QP replaced.
3. After it's back from the body shop, Swap out ECUs, wire the WG flapper open, and learn to tune the thing. There's SO MUCH SUPPORT here from people who really, really know their stuff. Between what Josh already knows and what I can learn here, and Kris at KO willing to rent his dyno for just $60/hour, I don't think it'll cost me much more than the price of the ECU to get it going. Well, a couple hours of dyno time and some beer for Josh should do it, I hope.
4. Profit, and in the future, I can tune my own vehicles.
#686
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No, $1400+tuning. This last session cost him $500.
Rev MS3 would give him $500 for tuning before he reached just the initial price of the Hydra, but I've already voiced my concerns with that above.
Edit: I should say that with a Rev unit you specify your setup, '01 coils, boost, 36-1 trigger wheel, etc, and he supposedly gives you a decent base map to start with.
Rev MS3 would give him $500 for tuning before he reached just the initial price of the Hydra, but I've already voiced my concerns with that above.
Edit: I should say that with a Rev unit you specify your setup, '01 coils, boost, 36-1 trigger wheel, etc, and he supposedly gives you a decent base map to start with.
I don't want to continue to pay people to tune my car. And I don't mean I just want YOU to tune it for free -- I mean I want to learn how. I know how to fix other parts of it, so I need to know how to fix THIS part of it.
Rev basemap, Autotune, play.
For the price of the Hydra I could get a MS3 basic (which does EVERYTHING I need), a coil kit, AFPR and a new fuel pump. Why wouldn't I do that?
#687
Thanks a ton for the input Vlad.
If the Hydra would be $1400 and DONE then I'd probably do it. But it won't. It'll be $1400, plus any extra features if i want to (that's the alpha system, the most basic, and I don't know what all it includes.. probably evrything I need), Plus TUNING, that puts me at $2k easy. Plus, I still won't have learned how to tune or anything.
I think I want to learn how to tune.
I am formulating a plan. Tell me what you all think:
1. Get the car running as good as I can with what I've got, sort the fueling, and attend MRLS and the other track day that's paid for in September.
2. After this season is over, order the MS3 from Rev and send the car off to get the QP replaced.
3. After it's back from the body shop, Swap out ECUs, wire the WG flapper open, and learn to tune the thing. There's SO MUCH SUPPORT here from people who really, really know their stuff. Between what Josh already knows and what I can learn here, and Kris at KO willing to rent his dyno for just $60/hour, I don't think it'll cost me much more than the price of the ECU to get it going. Well, a couple hours of dyno time and some beer for Josh should do it, I hope.
4. Profit, and in the future, I can tune my own vehicles.
If the Hydra would be $1400 and DONE then I'd probably do it. But it won't. It'll be $1400, plus any extra features if i want to (that's the alpha system, the most basic, and I don't know what all it includes.. probably evrything I need), Plus TUNING, that puts me at $2k easy. Plus, I still won't have learned how to tune or anything.
I think I want to learn how to tune.
I am formulating a plan. Tell me what you all think:
1. Get the car running as good as I can with what I've got, sort the fueling, and attend MRLS and the other track day that's paid for in September.
2. After this season is over, order the MS3 from Rev and send the car off to get the QP replaced.
3. After it's back from the body shop, Swap out ECUs, wire the WG flapper open, and learn to tune the thing. There's SO MUCH SUPPORT here from people who really, really know their stuff. Between what Josh already knows and what I can learn here, and Kris at KO willing to rent his dyno for just $60/hour, I don't think it'll cost me much more than the price of the ECU to get it going. Well, a couple hours of dyno time and some beer for Josh should do it, I hope.
4. Profit, and in the future, I can tune my own vehicles.
Do it
#688
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This is my resource, and my resource knows very little about my EMS. I want my resource to match with my EMS. While Kris is a great resource, he's far from free, he's very busy, and doesn't specialize in Miatas.
If I was like John Mann and had money to spare and was old and just wanted to drive my car and pay someone else to fix it, I'd get the Hydra and let Kris work his magic. But I'm none of those things
#689
You should open my '00 miata's build thread and find the posts about Adaptronic
Its like you copy/pasted my responses haha
(though I did eventually get it to work "ok" but still wasn't happy with it, and the gigantic lack of support/info. but at the time, it was one of the only PNP options. Once Rev came out with the MS2e we all hopped on them like crack fiends)
Its like you copy/pasted my responses haha
(though I did eventually get it to work "ok" but still wasn't happy with it, and the gigantic lack of support/info. but at the time, it was one of the only PNP options. Once Rev came out with the MS2e we all hopped on them like crack fiends)
#691
We'll, I now feel kind of bad about telling you to keep the ems4. Its a great ecu and I know that the tuners that are familiar with them can tune them wonderfully and I think you would have been quite happy if you had left he car at English and let them tune it for a few days. That being said, the plethora of mechanical issues in the week leading up to your final tuning session are a bit demoralizing and zi really feel for ya Ed. I think in the grand scheme of things once the car is mechanically sound you can then push forward with actually having it get a proper tune.
#692
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Yeah, I agree. I can't blame it all on the ECU. It was a perfect storm. But I learned a lot through the experience. I don't want to rely on someone else. Yes I will need help but I think I can learn a lot from Josh and reading threads here.
I don't feel like the fact that I spent what I did this week is a good enough reason to keep the AEM. I will list it for sale for $950 most likely, see what happens.
I don't feel like the fact that I spent what I did this week is a good enough reason to keep the AEM. I will list it for sale for $950 most likely, see what happens.
#693
Thanks a ton for the input Vlad.
If the Hydra would be $1400 and DONE then I'd probably do it. But it won't. It'll be $1400, plus any extra features if i want to (that's the alpha system, the most basic, and I don't know what all it includes.. probably evrything I need), Plus TUNING, that puts me at $2k easy. Plus, I still won't have learned how to tune or anything.
I think I want to learn how to tune.
I am formulating a plan. Tell me what you all think:
1. Get the car running as good as I can with what I've got, sort the fueling, and attend MRLS and the other track day that's paid for in September.
2. After this season is over, order the MS3 from Rev and send the car off to get the QP replaced.
3. After it's back from the body shop, Swap out ECUs, wire the WG flapper open, and learn to tune the thing. There's SO MUCH SUPPORT here from people who really, really know their stuff. Between what Josh already knows and what I can learn here, and Kris at KO willing to rent his dyno for just $60/hour, I don't think it'll cost me much more than the price of the ECU to get it going. Well, a couple hours of dyno time and some beer for Josh should do it, I hope.
4. Profit, and in the future, I can tune my own vehicles.
If the Hydra would be $1400 and DONE then I'd probably do it. But it won't. It'll be $1400, plus any extra features if i want to (that's the alpha system, the most basic, and I don't know what all it includes.. probably evrything I need), Plus TUNING, that puts me at $2k easy. Plus, I still won't have learned how to tune or anything.
I think I want to learn how to tune.
I am formulating a plan. Tell me what you all think:
1. Get the car running as good as I can with what I've got, sort the fueling, and attend MRLS and the other track day that's paid for in September.
2. After this season is over, order the MS3 from Rev and send the car off to get the QP replaced.
3. After it's back from the body shop, Swap out ECUs, wire the WG flapper open, and learn to tune the thing. There's SO MUCH SUPPORT here from people who really, really know their stuff. Between what Josh already knows and what I can learn here, and Kris at KO willing to rent his dyno for just $60/hour, I don't think it'll cost me much more than the price of the ECU to get it going. Well, a couple hours of dyno time and some beer for Josh should do it, I hope.
4. Profit, and in the future, I can tune my own vehicles.
#695
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I'm sure you're right.
I like this plan.
For right now, I ordered an AEM UEGO and walbro pump from fab9. gonna get a new fuel filter and install all of it this weekend, then try running a little more boost and see how it looks.
I like this plan.
For right now, I ordered an AEM UEGO and walbro pump from fab9. gonna get a new fuel filter and install all of it this weekend, then try running a little more boost and see how it looks.
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A note also: I've been thinking all along that it's an FM2 clutch.
Went back and dug up the original for sale listing...
949 Racing SuperMiata 4 Puck Clutch & Flywheel... iono what that is.
G, I went Walbro because it's a walbro now and walbro has been doing this forever and I like the name Walbro and that's why.
Also, Josh said go walbro over DW. I believe Josh. I don't care if it's noisy, the noise doesn't bother me now.
Went back and dug up the original for sale listing...
Most likely one of the fastest and best handling Miatas (Mazdaspeed) you'll ever drive! Production #673 of 4000 made. Upgraded turbo, cooling, and fully re-built the stock motor to handle the 260 whp+ efficiently. Utilized quality modifications, no cheap brands or parts in this vehicle. Motor was re-built and assembled by Pit Garage in El Monte, CA. They are a reputable race shop that specializes in Spec Miatas. Always garaged, well maintained, never involved in an accident. Selling due to other priorities in life and unfortunately not enough time to drive this anymore. Mods listed accordingly: Wiseco forged pistons, M-Tuned rods, ARP bolts & studs, Gates Racing timing belt, Absurdflow low mount manifold and downpipe, Garrett GT2871R BB turbo, Tial external wastegate and BOV, Custom 3" Magnaflow Exhaust, M-Tuned Coolant Re-Route, Trackspeed Engineering 76mm Dual Row Race Radiator, Custom Intercooler, Walbro 255lhp fuel pump, Injector Dynamics 1000cc fuel injectors, 949 Racing SuperMiata 4 Puck Clutch & Flywheel, Fat Cat Custom Coilovers (Re-valved Bilsteins), Hawk Brake Race Pads DTC-60, Upgraded Rotors, Goodridge SS Lines, Motul Brake Fluid, Trackspeed Brake Ducting, 949 Racing Black 6UL 15x9 wheels, 225/45/15 Hankook RS-3 Tires, Driver - Recaro SPG seat w/ Schroth harness (stock seatbelt still intact), Passenger - Sparco w/ Schroth harness, Hard Dog M2 Roll Bar, Momo steering wheel with Worksbell quick release, Factory Hardtop, MC 5000K HID, Spa Dual Gauge (reads oil pressure and water temp), Greddy Profec Boost Controller, AEM EMS-4 Full Standalone ECU. Will also include a spare trunk (matching color) with holes pre-drilled for attaching an APR GT-200 wing if desired. Additional Info: 2100 miles on the motor and 79468 miles on the chassis. Title in hand. $14,500 OBO. Feel free to contact if interested.
G, I went Walbro because it's a walbro now and walbro has been doing this forever and I like the name Walbro and that's why.
Also, Josh said go walbro over DW. I believe Josh. I don't care if it's noisy, the noise doesn't bother me now.
Last edited by turbofan; 08-20-2014 at 05:58 PM.
#698
Cpt. Slow
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Sweet! Finally getting the TO bearing replaced?
Emilio had issues with manufacturer's delivery times, not the clutch itself, but that's why you can't find it on 949's site any more.
Same clutch I have, except 1.8 and ceramic, hence the grabbyness. Very good clutch!
Look for "super miata clutch" thread here.
Appears to be a stock flywheel though, but I can bearly see anything.
Emilio had issues with manufacturer's delivery times, not the clutch itself, but that's why you can't find it on 949's site any more.
Same clutch I have, except 1.8 and ceramic, hence the grabbyness. Very good clutch!
Look for "super miata clutch" thread here.
Appears to be a stock flywheel though, but I can bearly see anything.
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Got the TO bearing replaced last week already, and I snapped this pic while I was under there, just kept forgetting to post it.
Still makes just as much noise with the clutch out in neutral, so the whine must be something else. Made no difference really.
Isn't yours the Sport clutch? I think mine is the 4-puck race clutch, this one: Replacement Discs for SuperMiata 7.25" Race Clutch
Still makes just as much noise with the clutch out in neutral, so the whine must be something else. Made no difference really.
Isn't yours the Sport clutch? I think mine is the 4-puck race clutch, this one: Replacement Discs for SuperMiata 7.25" Race Clutch