RedCarmel's copycat build
 

Alright, today seems as good as any other day to start a build thread.

A little history - in order to afford getting a miata as a fun weekend car, I had to sell my motorcycle (it was a 2001 Kawasaki ZRX1200R). It was a sad day when I had to let it go, but honestly I know I made the right decision.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1361764080

I took the cash from the bike sale and went on the miata hunt. Originally I wanted a green NB, but given my budget I knew that wasn't likely to find one in good shape. I ended up finding a red NA with a good ownership history and only 73k miles. My primary criteria was that it was a 1.8, was clean, and had no rust. This one fit the bill so it became mine. Also since it's a 1995, no OBDII is a bonus!

Here's how it sat when I bought it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1361764233

Over the two years I've owned it I've done some of the of the standard maintenance items such as rebuilding the shifter, replacing vital fluids, and doing the timing belt/water pump service

Then the modding started:

• Boss Frog Clearview Maxx rollbar,
• Tokico Illumina shocks with Flyin Miata springs and swaybars
• FM frame rails
• 15x8 6Uls with Star Specs

It still looks kind of plain but I prefer the sleeper car approach compared to the AEM and Jegs sticker look. Maybe I'll do some sort of racing stripe - not sure and it's not a priority right now.

It handles great and is a blast to drive, but holy crap it is slow. So after a lot of debating over various power pathways I decided to take on building a DIY turbo system.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1361764233

parts list
 

I just want to build something that's primarily streetable. I will do about three HPDEs a year with this car but it's mostly just for fun. My whp goal is 200-210.

First, with the gracious help of thirdgen, I tested compression and leakdown of my engine and I was very comfortable with the results. In fact, let me pause here to thank thirdgen for the tremendous amount of help he's given me along the way. I probably would have been banned from this forum if I publicly asked some of the stupid stuff he's had to answer for me. Props, sir!

Turbo parts

• New FM cast manifold that had crooked M10 stud holes drilled in it. I got it cheap and took it to a machine shop to get the holes fixed and heli-coils installed.
• Stage 8 locking hardware for M10 studs
• Used SR20 T25 off zilvia forums
• Used complete FM link for 94-95 (I know, I know, it's not an MS but it was a good deal)
• RX-7 550cc injectors (just cleaned and serviced by Cruzin Performance)
• Used FM downpipe and 2.5" exhaust
• Used intercooler piping sourced from various forum members
• AEM UEGO
• Autometer boost and oil temp gauges
• Turbosmart Kompact Dual Port BOV
• FM1 clutch (I will use the stock flywheel but have it turned and lightened by a machine shop)
• I still need to buy an intercooler and air filter

Some supporting parts I'm doing at the same time:

• Mazdaspeed Competition motor mounts (mostly installed...Rosethal sent me one incorrect mount but they assure me the 2nd competition mount is in the mail)
• Replace "dummy" oil pressure gauge and sending unit with earlier miata version (installed)
• replace steering wheel with Nardi from a 99 (installed)

In addition to the above I've wired the gauges, installed the Link, tapped and installed the oil return line fitting, and drilled out all the bolts I've snapped during the disassembly process.:noob: I'm expecting a delivery soon with the cast outlet for the turbo and once I get that I can start making serious progress.

I'm not very good about taking a lot of photos, but here's one that shows how I'm mounting the gauges.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1361766558

Glad to see you starting your build thread! You didn't have those 6uls when we met on PCH, did you? I like 'em. My wife wants me to get black in 15x7 and I guess I'm just gonna have to oblige her. Looking forward to more pics!

Hey Ray - no those were the old Borbets at the time. So your wife is encouraging you to get 6ULs? Very nice! I think the black ones would look great on your car.

I'm looking forward to seeing your build progress too. Post it up!

How do you like the Clearview Maxx? How does it do with a broomstick test?

With stock seats, fail. I plan to do a little surgery on my seat bottom to remedy that at some point. Other than that I like it real well. At some point I would also like to move the rearview mirror down an inch or so because the cross braces are still blocking my rearview a bit in the upper corners.

Some progress made
 

Stage 8 locking hardware does work on this turbo, but I did need to ever so slightly grind down a few of the retaining clips so they would fit down between the nut and the turbine housing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362457588

Installing studs using the double nut method

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362457588

I found out my new cast outlet didn't have exactly the right pattern for the studs. I found this thread that proved to me it wasn't just me, so I got to work using a round file to shape the 5th hole as needed. It took some time but it worked out fine.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362457588

Once I get the banjo fittings for the water lines done, I should be ready to mount this on the engine. I realize that the oil drain fitting is pointed the wrong direction but if it faced the other direction it would hit intercooler piping, and I think this orientation should work ok.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362457588

Looking good sir. That's the newest-looking used turbo I've ever seen.

Thanks. I went back and forth for a couple days deciding whether or not to rebuild the turbo myself or send it out to a place like G-Pop Shop. But I stumbled on some really good reviews of a guy in Greensburg, PA that has a little side business rebuilding journal bearing turbos for the DSM community. For about $100 more than the G-Pop Shop parts kit, he did the whole thing including media blasting the turbine and center housings and repainting them with high temp paint.

You could cut that so it points straight down. I'm sure you could flare it even thought I'm not convinced you'd need too. Or you could cut it off completely and tap the flange. Or I have a 1/2" thick aluminum oil drain flange for a T25 turbo already tapped with a 1/2" pipe tap. You could have it. I'm sure I also have a spare 1/2" barbed hose connector. If you're using rubber hose.

It looks like you're moving right along nicely. We'll have to meet up when you're finished and we can get on the dyno.

Does your turbo man have interest in more work? I'm sure there are many out there who would be more than happy to utilize his services.

Hey Patrick, I appreciate the offer and advice but I think for now I'm just going to see how it works as-is. It was the piece that came with the turbo from the Nissan forum and it fits the artech drain line I purchased perfectly.

Yes, I'm thinking maybe we should even try (again) to plan an all PA meet. There seems to be a number of us around.

I was actually emailing him about this. He said he's got lots of other work already but he certainly won't turn anyone away if they would like his service.

Here's a link to his ad

Journal Bearing Turbocharger Rebuild Service - DSM Classifieds

No problem but if you need it or want a braided stainless line...I've got a bunch of spare stuff.

I sacrificed a stock sr20 water line in order to reuse the fittings on my build. One of them was a little rusty inside but cleaned up reasonably well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362575969

Lines installed. An extra large heat shield on the oil drain line hides the ugly worm clamp at the top. However, I thought using another clamp just snugged up around the bottom of the heat shield to hold it in place made sense.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362575969

I couldn't fit this on the engine last night. I've heard that with this setup you do not need to bend or cut the frame rail, so I have not done that. I will try disconnecting one of the motor mounts and jacking the engine up a little to see if that gives me enough clearance.

I'm not sure you'll be able to get it in all bolted together. Atleast not with the elbow on.

The manifold, turbo and outlet casing can be installed pre-assembled as shown above. It is far easier than trying to install the outlet casting with the turbo in the engine bay.

Even after loosening the motor mounts and jacking the engine up, I still need to cut a slot to get it to fit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362980372

I've seen quite a few threads on how people have dealt with mounting the wastegage actuator on an SR20 turbo after rotating the compressor housing about 180 degrees. I was very close to copying Curly's exhaust clamp solution (this is the copycat build after all) when I decided to do something else. Ended up drilling and tapping mounting holes in the back side of the housing, and then shortening and threading the stock actuator rod. This way I could keep the actuator on the stock bracket and end result was very stout.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1362980372

That's genius! Where did you get that idea from?

Thirdgen Turbo System Consulting, of course. Props!

Made some reasonable progress this weekend. Got the oil and water lines hooked up and most of the intercooler piping set up. I need to get to a NAPA and pick up two more t-bolts and I'll be able to finish the intercooler piping. Major stuff left is to swap the injectors, hang the exhaust, and run remaining misc vacuum lines and gauge wires.

This is a CXRacing 27x6x2.5 bar & plate intercooler with 2.5" openings. Regardless of the inspection certificate I wasn't terribly impressed with the quality, but it was $80 shipped so you get what you pay for

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725

Running the intercooler piping wasn't too bad, but keeping the A/C and power steering definitely makes my life more difficult. I picked up a used FM silicone pipe for the compressor-intercooler side, and it is a tight fit, and some protection for the pipe will be in order.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725

The intercooler-intake side was easier, and I'm using some metal tubing I picked up used off the forum. The guy before me was using a 3/8" hole for what I assume was his GM IAT sensor, but I adapted it for the wastegate signal source per Joe Perez's very helpful thread on boost sag.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725

I was less than amused about the FM Link IAT setup. I picked up a used sensor and I just hope it's not already broken.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725

Now that I see this picture, the intercooler is crooked. I bought some strips of aluminum and attempted to copy FM's intercooler hanger, but it will need some adjustment.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363660725

For the lower radiator hose, I saw some posts about using a universal 20" long NAPA hose, but I also saw some people with NAs had luck with using an stock NB hose. So I picked up an NB hose, but when I was installing it, it was way too long. In the end, I had to trim about 5.5" off the upper end and about 0.5" off the lower end to make it fit without kinks. Either way, I think it should work.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1363661494

With any luck, I'll be wrapping up this install this weekend.

pretty much done
 

Well it was a pretty good weekend, got the used FM 2.5" exhaust hung, RX-7 550cc injectors installed, electronic boost control solenoid installed, and the misc gauges and sensors wired up.

I know not many people are familiar with the FM link, but I went through the steps to reset the turbo basemap, verify the IAT and MAP sensor was working, set the TPS, and then started the car.

It fired up relatively well considering it's been sitting on jackstands since December. However, it pretty much idled like crap at around 1100, and the readings from the wideband gauge were through the roof.

The next steps after this were to adjust the idle and then set the ignition timing. I don't know if these steps will help me or not. I didn't do much with that because I was concerned about what I was seeing for AFRs. Is is safe to keep it idling with really high AFRs since there's no load on the engine?

Also, the two times I started it up there was a cyclical metallic screeching sound for a few seconds that would then go away. I hope to everything holy that's there's not something making contact in the turbo. Since it goes away, I would assume not but I don't know what it yet (didn't have a helper so I was just sitting in the driver's seat). I did prime the turbo before starting the engine.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1364175038

I think the Ill sound you're hearing is the sound of horsepower...just like all the oil on my garage floor....it's simply sweat from all the horse power my stock engine makes.

Could be your alternator. Mine does this occasionally

Lol, pretty sure that's not it. I don't think I was making a lot of hp with that idle

It never did it before, but I guess I've never let it sit for months on end without running it...so, maybe? That would be nice if it was something relatively simple.

I'm not familiar with how the Link system hooks into the car, but I do believe my belt squeals because the MS is making the alternator work extra hard on start ups.

Man I love how bronze 6uls look on Red NA miata's...

he has a 95.

I know...Though I'm sure what your point is?

exactly.

I aspire to be as wise as you

dont you all...

I called FM about the crappy, and way lean, idle and they said to adjust the injector offset to account for the fact I'm running RX-7 injectors and to move the master fuel map up to get the AFRs more normal at idle. Those things helped but I still have a rough idle that stumbles quite a bit. I'm showing an average of 18 for vacuum at idle so now I will be on the hunt for a vacuum leak. Thirdgen pointed out that people that use RX-7 injectors tend to get leaks around the isolators so I will be checking that first.

I think my idle issues are all taken care of now.

Details here https://www.miataturbo.net/link-93/l...-issues-71890/

I still need to take the ECU back out and fix up some potentially cracked solder and continue with the autotuning process. Most of the interior is back together, I need to finish hooking up the oil temp gauge and I want to go over my IC piping really well one last time to make sure it won't blow apart.

Generally speaking, things seem to be going pretty well. I haven't found any water or oil leaks yet, the car is running pretty great now, and the FM exhaust sounds amazing.

After I get everything buttoned up and road tuned, the plan is to run about 8psi for a while and then take the car out of commission, again, long enough to install the FM stage 1 clutch. Then I will take it to Ken Hill for dyno tuning and my goal will be about 210whp. Ken was a big help to me getting my idle issue ironed out and I really look forward to working with him on that final tune.

With that turbo, and those injectors...I believe 210whp would easily be achieved. My guess is between 10 and 12psi. Did you end up using an oil restrictor for your turbo? I don't know if I ever mentioned it, but I used a pop rivet on mine from the get go.

I did not…I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the FM oil feed line fittings had the proper size ID to deal with that.

The oil feed components are properly sized from FM. Some installations experience minor oil consumption that can be rectified with a restrictor on the inlet of the turbo. Restrictors are about $7 from AP Turbo.

Or $.03 for a pop rivet.

Or no restrictor. I have been running without one for awhile because its a journal bearing and I broke my restrictor. Though I'll eventually get one when I find one I'm happy with.

It's been a long time since I've updated this thread, but I've been pretty busy over the last several weeks and haven't time much time to work on the car.

A few weeks ago I sent the Link ECU to Ken Hill for some repairs and he also made up a brace so the heatsink should never vibrate and break solder joints on me again. So I reinstalled the Link, swapped out the factory catalytic for a new used Magnaflow, made some adjustments on my IC piping and IC mount, and wrapped some hoses and lines under the hood with adhesive backed heat wrap.

Another task that I've been putting off is wrapping the hotside silicone IC pipe and water lines with some strategically placed rubber hose to act as a buffer against rubbing. It's not pretty but I'll keep my eye on it and see if helps and stays put.

Tomorrow I think I'll reinstall some of the chassis bracing, slap on the 6ULs and get back to road tuning

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1367810657
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1367810657

even though you call it a copy cat, its a good build. giving me lots of ideas for how i will go about boosting.

Thanks. I used the word copycat a little tongue-in-cheek but it is mostly meant as a kind of hat tip to all those that blazed the path I'm following. I don't feel like I innovated a lot on this build but it was still enough of a challenge for me. I'm glad that it's helping you though, as that was the whole point. It may not be a terribly unique build, but sometimes it's just that one extra picture that someone posted that helps one understand what the FAQ was talking about (assuming they read the FAQ).

So this is in a drivable state. When are we going to meet up? We'd better do it before thirdgen starts to tear his car apart.

LOL, I think it's too late for that

Well, it WAS drivable until tonight. As we speak it's going up, way up, on jackstands. 6psi of boost sucks, so I'm fast forwarding my schedule and installing the FM1 clutch now.

Lesson to noobs, don't do what Donny Don't does (Simpsons reference) and think it's a good idea to just run the stock clutch while you learn how to tune. You will want to run ALLOFIT immediately. You do this at your own risk, of course.

Edit: Anyway, after the clutch I want to get together with Ken Hill for a dyno tune session and then we should all meet up.

Hahaha sounds like me. Popped a hose of my powercard and thought I destroyed my clutch... Only the 3rd time I had my tranny out... Let me know if you need any help.

Oh yeah? Whatcha doing this weekend? :makeout:

I'm elbows deep in a 370 project, but I'm sure I could spare a few hours to help a fellow miata owner

Thanks Patrick!!!

On another note, does anyone use their (reinforced) frame rails as jackstand points? I tried it out on the back end, and I could get about another inch or so in height if I used the frame rails for both ends. I've always used the seam welds...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1368155948

If I remember right, I put my jackstands under the bulky midsection of my control arms.

Any updates on your build, Adam? I still haven't even got to install my MS. Stuff just keeps coming up and getting in the way.

Hey Ray. I've put about 100 miles on the new clutch and so far so good. I've road tuned most of the non-boost rows and so far the car runs and drives real nice. I'm still running wastegate pressure for now while I work on getting some miles on the clutch for its break-in period. It's taking a lot of self control to not plant my right foot in it 100% of the time but I'm trying to behave.

Lets see what else - I have all the interior back together and the bracing back on the car. Just did an oil change. I do need to improve the ducting around the intercooler/radiator but that will come with time.

Awesome news...happy to hear you're almost there. Just go for a long drive and get that clutch broken in! Did you install the clutch yourself? All I really have left to do to get the MS going is have a bung welded for my wideband...if I can ever find the time to get down from the mountains and over into the muffler shop. I swear I must be on the 2-3 year build plan.

dyno tuning
 

This was the big weekend for me - finally the time had arrived to do some dyno tuning on my fresh build.

First I need to give props to Ken Hill for making the tuning session go so smoothly and for keeping up with my constant correspondence as I was prepping for this weekend. He also took the time to educate me on every step he took during the tuning process and I think I learned quite a bit. I especially appreciate his willingness to work around a red hot turbo and correct my improper wastegate actuator arm adjustment (I had zero pre-load on the actuator arm and it showed on the first couple pulls).

It took about 1.5 hour on the dyno and then another hour of fine tuning on the street and we were all done. I'm really happy with the numbers we achieved and the way the car drives. It starts great, idles great, runs great, and pulls so hard to redline it's just a riot.

I exported a graph showing the first base level pull and the last run of the day. When I brought the car to Ken it was just running 6psi (with an improperly adjusted actuator arm) and base maps. Run #8 was done at 12psi and is where the car is at now.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1370227412

And now the big question:
"Was it worth it?"

Well let's see.... :skid:
Given the fact that I can't stop laughing whenever I put my right foot hard in it...I'd say yes! :party:

That's great dude. 'Congrats.

200wtq at 3.5k makes for one heck of a fun street car.

wooohooo, mad torque yo. Congrats. Now get some videos of this thing ripping up the streetz.

How much boost, btw ? Do you have a log of the run?

Thanks guys. For a budget build from someone who knew nothing about turbos before joining this site I'm loving the results.

12psi. Ken did email me logs but I haven't gone through downloading DLL yet so I can't view them yet.

Congrats man, looks like a blast! Glad you're learning so much. Great job.

Just a little update. I've put about 1,200 miles on the car since the turbo install was completed. So far (crossing fingers) there has been no issues and it's performing just as good as it ever has. I've just made one change so far, and that's the addition of a partial FM turbo heat shield. It was one of their prototypes when developing the shield for the FMIIR kit and I got it for a substantial discount since it was missing the top. Thirdgen gave me a piece of diamond plate aluminum that I will make into the top when I have a chance.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1373056890