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Ah.. gotcha, I didn't check the link. It might be the best option, given your limitations. Know that the hub nut can be a SOB to get off. I ended up getting 3/4 drive breaker bar, plus a 4' steel pipe.My 1/2 drive breaker bar was flexing a ton, but probably would have worked with the bar.
I just dropped it off at a shop down the street. Decided that it would kind of suck to break down on the George Washington Bridge again...lol.
Nut isn't as much trouble as pulling CV splines out sometimes. Soak it a few days with penetrating oil.
Unfortunately didn't have a few days this time, but next time!
Well, hopefully there isn't a next time.
Originally Posted by 96morbst
Yay I don't have to fix your miata this time ;p
Hah, you can stop by next time just to come drive the thing instead! I'm sure that's going to be weird for you though.
Originally Posted by cmcgregor
Shop was a good call in this case, but for future reference, I have a 20 ton press. Just did my wheel bearings recently.
Oh hi new best friend!
Originally Posted by slowcarfast
I can confirm... but now it's someone else's problem!
And I'm glad it is!
Axle was fucked to ****. Took the shop 2 hours to get it off. No local shop has an axle. No local junkyard has an axle. Well, one does, but I just called them and the guy goes,"yup, I'm showing we still have it, but I'm going to have to tell you something that's going to feel like a kick in the *****. It's still in the car we have in the yard so it's not coming out till tomorrow at the earlier."
I guess I'm waiting till the afternoon for the new part to show up to the shop.
But the diff is fine and the shop is going to check alignment after to make sure things are fine at no extra charge. Brake pad was also cracked in half sooo yeah. DID I MENTION THE DIFF IS FINE?!?!?!
Two of the guys working there came up to me when I was poking around to talk about the civics they've been building for the drag strip and dyno tuning. One of them is about to start gutting his. I think I found my shop...
Unfortunately didn't have a few days this time, but next time!
Well, hopefully there isn't a next time.
Hah, you can stop by next time just to come drive the thing instead! I'm sure that's going to be weird for you though.
Oh hi new best friend!
And I'm glad it is!
Axle was fucked to ****. Took the shop 2 hours to get it off. No local shop has an axle. No local junkyard has an axle. Well, one does, but I just called them and the guy goes,"yup, I'm showing we still have it, but I'm going to have to tell you something that's going to feel like a kick in the *****. It's still in the car we have in the yard so it's not coming out till tomorrow at the earlier."
I guess I'm waiting till the afternoon for the new part to show up to the shop.
But the diff is fine and the shop is going to check alignment after to make sure things are fine at no extra charge. Brake pad was also cracked in half sooo yeah. DID I MENTION THE DIFF IS FINE?!?!?!
Two of the guys working there came up to me when I was poking around to talk about the civics they've been building for the drag strip and dyno tuning. One of them is about to start gutting his. I think I found my shop...
Advanced Auto shows Carquest #NCV47590 for $80.99 and usually they'll have it at the store the next day. For the money, I'd by new.
Advanced Auto shows Carquest #NCV47590 for $80.99 and usually they'll have it at the store the next day. For the money, I'd by new.
Issue is that I have to be somewhere this afternoon. So now it's going to be tonight... Oh well.
Originally Posted by afm
You should fix that sway bar mount yesterday. M6 bolts IIRC?
The lack of bolts you mean, right? Yeah. I'll get on that. Just wanted to confirm sizes. ****, I'd totally forgotten about it with all the recent excitement!
Well, I managed to make it home on 'tuesday'. Got back at 2 AM on weds AM instead of 2PM on tuesday, but I made it and that's fine by me.
I went back to the shop at noon after dropping the car off at 9:30. Owner (Eddie) had estimated it would be done by 11:30. Turns out the axle seized and we needed a new one. Fine. Axle was ordered and estimated to arrive at 3-4 PM. Owner promised he'd get me home that night.
I walked over again at 5:30 after not having heard back for a little bit. Turns out that no one in worcester had an axle so he had to order one from somewhere else. Estimated delivery was 4 PM but it turns out the shop delivered an axle for a totally different car. Since no one had one, that left me essentially stranded. A junkyard had one, but it was still attached to the car in the yard and wouldn't be ready till the next morning. ****.
So I called a local miata shop in Clinton (Main Street Auto). They close at 5, but answered at 5:30 against their better judgement. Some poking around later they said they had an axle for 40 bucks. I had no second car so I was a bit fubared. None of my friends were around, so I just took an uber there to pick it up and brought it back to the shop where my car was holed up. Main street waited for me and so did Eddie. Got the axle back... no nut. Eddie poked around and found one in his shop. Well, turns out that one of my brake pads had a small piece that chipped off. It was driveable but needed to be replaced. Eddie threw me the keys to one of the cars on his lot with dealer plates and told me to go get some.
Came back with pads. They were different than what was on the car. Went back to shop with one of the brake pads and tried to figure it out. Brake pads match sport brakes. Wait... wtf? My car is a base 2000. It doesn't have sport brakes? Well... Turns out someone installed sport pads anyway. Has anyone seen this fuckery done before? I'm guessing that I should swap back to the stock 1.8 pads asap...
So we said **** it. Reinstalled everything with the 'new' used axle (looked like it had seen better days but it worked), checked alignment, and off I went. I left his garage a little after 8 and left town around 9.
On the way to PA, I suddenly lost boost. I'd get 1-2 psi, but things looked off. Oh... right. Boost leak?
That 'hole' is where the BOV used to live. It somehow flew off and I found it hanging by the vac tubing next to one of the belts... Jeebus. Got that back on after stopping for food and made it back home. I'm happy I packed just about every tool I thought I'd need.
Rest of the drive was mostly uneventful, except that I hit a tire carcass on the road when I changed lanes to pass a slow car and flew into it. My bumper is pretty unhappy right now. Need to figure out if it can be salvaged with the fender liners etc or if I should just look for a replacement at this point. The paint on it kinda sucks anyway so need to see what ends up being more cost efficient.
Also, this is what it looks like when a med student goes home for three weeks to study in a 'project' car.
After taking that last picture, I unloaded my backpack and put all the books on the rear shelf behind the roll bar so I could use the passenger side view mirror without the backpack blocking the way.
Still having a few issues with random intermittent boost leaks, but I'll deal with it when I feel like it. There's a spare car here I can use for the time being.
I made it home in time to see family visiting from out of the country, so that was a win. Took a few people out for a ride along and made my uncle shout 'bloody hell' when we hit boost. That was a bigger win.
And with that, study breaks over. T minus 23 days.
I did a thing today that'll probably make Vlad happy.
Also hung out with Stefanst again and helped him do brake things. Bummed his old rear brake pads off him and I'm really curious to see if they fit my stock rear brakes. I'm trying to wrap my head around the fact that someone probably installed sport pads in my non-sport brakes. Yeah, I don't get it.
Last edited by ridethecliche; 05-21-2017 at 11:41 PM.
I'm trying to figure out the leak at the turbo oil feed. I took the thing apart and some of the threads didn't look terribly happy so I went to a local performance shop and bought the new fittings.
I read some old threads on here about the use of restrictors on turbos and I've read mixed things about whether or not they're required or not. From what I know, my turbo is a journal bearing turbo that thirdgen modified to bring it to a 2560 spec (housing/compressor wheel), but it's still JB. I see a pop rivet inline of the feed. I texted him earlier asking if he used the pop rivet because he had to or pre-emptively. I've seen people recommend them in the threads I read.
The line with the pop rivet in place has a .125 inch diameter (.06 rad) vs .1875 inch diameter (.09 rad) in the new fitting sans rivet. Garrett says that JB turbos don't need restrictors unless they're having issues due to too high oil pressure. My highest oil pressure measured at the oil feed on the block at startup might get up to 60-65 psi. I idle in the mid teens and cruise is in the 30-40 psi range once warmed up. The feed is a 4AN line. I'm not 100% sure what the drain line size is but I believe it's 10AN.
Luckily, the fitting with the rivet looks ugly, but the threads are good so I can reuse it. I'm just trying to figure out what the consensus was for the JB turbos and restrictors on our engines. I've seen old posts where folks recommend: nothing, a pop rivet, or a .06 radius (?) fitting. I think Lincoln logs and savington were talking about the .06 fitting. Is that the way to go or is it something you try without a restrictor and evaluate after a few drives to see what's going on?
Edit: Just realized that the fitting that goes directly into the turbo also looks to have a slightly larger opening than the one that I took off. The one I took off looks to have a slight change in OD as it enters vs the new one which doesn't.
Last edited by ridethecliche; 05-25-2017 at 02:54 PM.
Our dedicated was about 5 weeks, but I extended it by a few weeks more. I came home for the tail end of that period to just hide and study here. Seems to be going okay so far. Even if not, there's plenty of indian food with which to eat away my sorrow/stress. I guess that's a win?
I'm trying to figure out the leak at the turbo oil feed. I took the thing apart and some of the threads didn't look terribly happy so I went to a local performance shop and bought the new fittings.
I read some old threads on here about the use of restrictors on turbos and I've read mixed things about whether or not they're required or not. From what I know, my turbo is a journal bearing turbo that thirdgen modified to bring it to a 2560 spec (housing/compressor wheel), but it's still JB. I see a pop rivet inline of the feed. I texted him earlier asking if he used the pop rivet because he had to or pre-emptively. I've seen people recommend them in the threads I read.
The line with the pop rivet in place has a .125 inch diameter (.06 rad) vs .1875 inch diameter (.09 rad) in the new fitting sans rivet. Garrett says that JB turbos don't need restrictors unless they're having issues due to too high oil pressure. My highest oil pressure measured at the oil feed on the block at startup might get up to 60-65 psi. I idle in the mid teens and cruise is in the 30-40 psi range once warmed up. The feed is a 4AN line. I'm not 100% sure what the drain line size is but I believe it's 10AN.
Luckily, the fitting with the rivet looks ugly, but the threads are good so I can reuse it. I'm just trying to figure out what the consensus was for the JB turbos and restrictors on our engines. I've seen old posts where folks recommend: nothing, a pop rivet, or a .06 radius (?) fitting. I think Lincoln logs and savington were talking about the .06 fitting. Is that the way to go or is it something you try without a restrictor and evaluate after a few drives to see what's going on?
I don't run restrictors on journal bearing turbos. I've always done no restrictor, 4AN feed, 12AN (3/4" hose) drain that has a smooth clear shot to the oil pan. Never had a problem with a turbo draining doing this.
If your turbo is leaking at the fitting, that's a fitting problem. If you have a rivet or something in there jaming it up, stopping it from threading in all the way and sealing I could see that being an issue.
I don't run restrictors on journal bearing turbos. I've always done no restrictor, 4AN feed, 12AN (3/4" hose) drain that has a smooth clear shot to the oil pan. Never had a problem with a turbo draining doing this.
If your turbo is leaking at the fitting, that's a fitting problem. If you have a rivet or something in there jaming it up, stopping it from threading in all the way and sealing I could see that being an issue.
I think it was an issue with the threads. Must have happened at some point when the setup was transported and stored between thirdgen taking it off and my installing it (~6 mos). I've talked to him about it and he said there was no leaking at all when he had it installed. He's a straight shooter, so it must have been something that moved it in storage and messed with a thread, or I must have done something boneheaded during installation.
I'll run it without the restrictor and see how things turn out for now. Can always take it apart if I notice anything being off after a couple of drives.
It smelled like crap when I took it off though (coking?) which may have been a remnant from when the car was running conventional oil when I did an 'oil flush' between running mobil 1. Who knows... It's water cooled so it shouldn't be doing that, but it's not really anything to worry about yet since the leaking could be contributing to that as well.
I run a .060" restrictor in my journal bearing turbo (fitting with a .060" hole) but I agree with @patsmx5 if you have a leak at the fitting thread it's a different problem.
05-16-2017, 09:40 AM
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