Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

You've got to be shitting me. You can't make the NA sensor work?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

That's a firmware issue, it's not something I can do.

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

So I need to cut a '99 and my valve cover apart, weld them together, buy a '99 intake cam gear and sensor to make this actually work sequential.

Anything else I'm missing?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

or get a 99 head and not only get that, but also much better flow

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

He has a 1.6L, the '99 head won't fit.

There's a EUDM/JDM 99-05 1.6L engine that has a matching valve cover for your engine, and it has the cam sensor hole/mount on it as well. That's what you need, along with the sensor/cam gear.

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Ok, stuff ordered to implement the '99 style cam sensor.

Next, some pictures of stuff that arrived today:

Big Boy Pants brakes aka TSE 11.75" BBK with Dynapro6 calipers. Paired with [not shown] Carbotech 1521's for street and XP12's for track. I had better be able to decelerate with this setup.
TSE 11.75" BBK w/Wilwood Dynapro6 by Ryephile, on Flickr

Safety wiring is a nice touch, but it also is a double-edge sword in that I can't verify hardware torque. Plus, TSE's tech's didn't use a clean workbench and/or towel and scratched the Wilwood rotor hats paint finish. This would be a non-issue if I were buying used ****, but brand new should look new out of the box.
TSE 11.75" BBK w/Wilwood Dynapro6 by Ryephile, on Flickr

Singular 2.5" brake ducts. Very light.
TSE 11.75" BBK w/Wilwood Dynapro6 by Ryephile, on Flickr

Trackspeed sticker collection, 5 HP each x 3 = 20 HP?
TSE 11.75" BBK w/Wilwood Dynapro6 by Ryephile, on Flickr


^^^That will get paired with FM's Wilwood 4-pot "street" rear brake kit, which is "en route". This will run Carbotech 1521's for street and XP10's on track. Wilwood prop valve is also on the shelf.

Also "en route" from FM is an FM2 no-elec kit with a GT2554R. I know, I know, collective groans from the big-turbo size queens out there. Feel free to make my **** super cool my shipping me your built 1.9 and EFR7064 setup, but until that happens you'll have to just appreciate my lame "balanced power/grip/braking" build with a modest stock 1.6 and 2554 at 10 psi or somewhere around 210 "wLbFt", to keep my con-rods in one piece. My intent is also to have a broad [modest] torque plateau, and the 2554 plays nicely to this goal. Remember that I've been down the path of "ALLOFIT" as you guys say, this is not that kind of build.


Ok, there's one thing I could use help with. Since I'll be running NB cam and crank sensors, I don't need my CAS anymore. Anyone have the part number or size of the block off plate the NB's use? My Google-fu is not working well on this part. Better yet, anyone that's done a BP4W swap into their NA have that block-off plate left-over?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I actually do use a piece of butcher paper on top of my shipping workbench to protect the hats as best I can, but they always wiggle a little when I'm wiring them up. The finish Wilwood uses isn't particularly robust. At the end of the day, the small scuffs are nothing compared to the damage the wheel will do to them, but I will make an effort to find a foam or something to protect the hats better during assembly.

KLG4-12-603

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response. Fair enough, I know the Wilwood finish is fragile. Try using a microfiber cloth between the hat and the workbench, it should keep the delicate finish looking better until the customer has a chance to screw it up themselves.

And, thanks a ton for the part number!

Alejo_NIN

iTrader: (2)

nice build man!

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

No doubt, after all, how else you gonna get rid of it? I've hit my $20k budget and I haven't even bought track tires yet. Hmm, do they count since they're consumables? Oh wait, I still need to put together an oil cooler. I think that's the last of the big expenses.

Basically everything I'm touching is going to be new or severely improved. There's a whole basement shelf full of stuff I haven't shown yet. All in due time; I'm not planning on starting the big redo until later next month.....assuming I get my FM2 and MS3 Basic by then.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

If anyone is groaning, they're either stupid, joking, or trolling. There's nothing wrong with a gt2554r.

In fact, in a daily driver situation its awesome.

Good job so far, keep up the good work.

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Vlad, I appreciate it.

More pictures!


These are the APR mirrors I scored off Abe:
Miata by Ryephile, on Flickr


Spooky translucent "billet" nylon shift **** from Techno Toy Tuning on a Garage Star 2.75" stainless extension (it's what he said I needed). Initially I disliked the obnoxious contrast, but perhaps the irony is I wanted white to match my GReddy gauges and more importantly be able to see the shift **** with my peripheral vision. It's certainly growing on me; driving around with it for the past 2 weeks has been lovely. Great temperature-neutral feel and much closer to the steering wheel plane.
Miata by Ryephile, on Flickr


Then I brought the car to Sharkey paintless dent removal. Joe does an awesome job. The car had enough little nudges and dents that I just assume a pack of fat chicks rolled around on it. There were 30-some indentations in the LF fender alone, probably from the lazy mechanics that installed the GReddy turbo. In all, it was about 50 fixes. The car looks hella better when it's in the sun now.
Miata by Ryephile, on Flickr


Finally, OMG my MS3 Basic arrived! With WBO2 CAN module. Not everything is wiring out to the DB37, and the pin-out has descriptive overlap for the pink and violet wires, which I assume [hope] are configured for sequential fuel. I did open them up to see what's under the hood. I'm proud to see Freescale pressure sensors for both MAP and barometric. I'm biased but they're better than the MAPdaddy.
Miata by Ryephile, on Flickr

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

So, been struggling with Flyin Miata for the past week.

The were holding up my whole order because of the rear e-brake cable. At no time did they ask if I would accept separate shipments, wanted to wait forever, anything. I was like "um, ship the turbo kit, duh". Then they over-charge my card, claiming it costs $299.40 to ship it ground. If they were within ear-shot, their ear drums would be perforated right now for how asinine that is. When they get their act together they're sending me package weights and dims and I'll email them the shipping labels from my personal account. Retards. They obviously don't have a UPS corporate account, which is hardly a big deal to acquire. One phone call, done.

Thanks, I needed to vent. I guess I get pretty biased/spoiled dealing with real companies everyday.

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Cast Iron bits [FM manifold, downpipe elbow, and turbine housing] sent off to Swain Tech to be coated with White Lightning.

Still driving the car until everything arrives. I hate starting a project waiting on someone else. Besides, snow hasn't started flying so I can still drive top-down in reasonable comfort.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

IF you think FM is bad, don't even attempt to do business with Begi.

Glad you got the turbo bits though, and post up pics of when it comes back from Swain. Should look really cool

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Just writing this down so I don't forget: the Garrett #471171-5003S that FM sent me [aka GT2554R] has a built-in oil feed restrictor of about 0.040"-ish, so an external oil restrictor fitting doesn't appear to be necessary.

Drove the car to work again today, as we've had two rare nice days in a row!

Still waiting on my box of goodies from Fab9, and just found out that GarageStar can't ship pulleys because their machine shop is backed up. There are tons of machine shops bored out of their mind, so Ken needs to find a new shop to deal with. I'm thinking I'll start tearing down the car next week so I can paint the engine bay before the snow flies.



-->Also so I don't forget: This thread here on MS3 and Sequential fueling is super-helpful, like so many threads on MT.net!

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Ok, the teardown has begun. I only have at most a couple hours per night to work on the car, so this won't be a lightning pace build.

Miata teardown by Ryephile, on Flickr

Monday I took off the bumper and fenders, and yesterday I did a coolant flush to purge the gross whatever the hell was in there. A bottle of Prestone flush, several gallons of distilled water, and 2 thermostat cycles later, the system is flushed and rinsed. There was all sorts of lime scale and beige goo in the overflow tank. I'm guessing whoever filled the coolant last used tap water, oops.

I then removed the IC and piping. Looks like I had an early Flyin Miata setup. Jesus is that thing heavy. I also didn't realize that the TB had to come off to remove the TPS, as the shaft is too long. I'm going to see if I can make a Wells TPS4185 fit inside the stock TPS housing and match the pin-out.

Miata teardown by Ryephile, on Flickr

...and proof that the ole TD04-H still spins with the engine idling.
Miata teardown by Ryephile, on Flickr

greddygalant

iTrader: (3)

You can easily spank an exige S around a track, or shoot even a 211 for that matter. The video turbofan posted is my car, the exige in question is a stock car on Yokohama super soft full slicks, I was on worn hoosier SM takeoffs. For reference, I now run lap times equivalent to a lotus 211 with ohlins double adjustable shocks, exhaust and software, and yoko slicks in the hands of a highly regarded local driver and I am by no means a great driver. You will be shocked how good a turbo miata with some weight reduction can be compared to the lotus. Next year I plan to sack up and actually buy a new set of tires instead of my 3000 heat cycle takeoffs that I get for free. I would say if I actually had to pay full retail value for the modifications on my car it would come out around 10-12k invested including the cost of the car but seeing as everything was purchased or acquired for less Id say its closer to maybe 6k net after selling parts, etc.
That being said, I have driven a friends supercharged elise that had coilovers, BBK, and yoko slicks, and it was a joy to drive around the track. The car felt less stable at the limit compared to the miata but the braking capability and feel was astronomically better.

Regardless, nice build, curious to see where it ends up in the future.

Ryephile

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the perspective. I believe my goals are realistic. My loose targets are 210 LbFt or 12 PSIg, whichever is less. The goal is to keep the engine on the functional side of bent rods during track work. With the GT2554R I should have a low boost threshold, reasonably low lag, and a nice broad torque curve.

Come late winter I'll order a set of Xida's, and match the spring rates to the 225/45-15 Hoosier R7's I'll get. That should give the car sufficient mechanical grip for the TSE 11.75 front and FM 11" rear BBK's, running Carbotech pads. The current 1.6 brakes with Hawk blues are a total joke for modulation, that's for sure. I've been looking for an excuse to try HVT dampers, no offense to the other good dampers out there. I loved the Nitron singles I had on the Lotus, those were excellent and held their own with back-to-back seat time with another friend's Exige S240 on Penske triples. I can only hope the HVTs are on-par with those. I don't need a damper beyond a single adjustable, I'm not on the track looking for the last tenth, just good balance and click off clean laps.

It seems like I'll just have to deal with the weight problem the Miata has. I obviously can't lose 500 pounds off the car and keep a full interior and soft top. This will never be a stripped out track car, always a dual-duty. I need the car to be competent for annual Tail of the Dragon visits, so it has to be good at long-distance cruising too. My only big concession for weight will be removing the P/S and A/C. I'm planning on sending the rack to Miata Cage, unless anyone has wisdom to share for a better solution.